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Best Fix for Poorly Installed Wall Blocking?

hector

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Oct 24, 2020
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47
Location
USA
My garage previously had 8ft. high sheets of pegboard (walls are 9ft + stem wall) which I removed.

To hang the 8ft sheets someone installed blocking in the walls at the 8ft point (See picture).

The blocking looks like it was installed in a real hurry and is installed up to 1/2 in. proud from the studs in places, the majority of pieces are 1/8-1/4 proud.

I am going to hang drywall, so I want these walls flat. The studs are plumb it's just the poorly installed blocking sticking out.

Should I plane down the blocking to fix this or try to remove the blocking altogether? There are about 70 pieces all told, probably half of them need some work.
 

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loganb

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Dec 29, 2011
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5,496
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Omaha, NE
Think I would start with a corded power planer and see how it goes. Pulling that many toe nailed in nails out doesn't sound fun

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jimindm

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Oct 29, 2011
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2,395
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
If you want them flat, I would say it depends how much work you want to do. The worst ones I would just knock out, if they are not fastening to the outside wall in any way. Some you could likely get by with just an aggressive belt on a belt sander.

I would guess you are wanting to go all the way to the top of the wall with drywall. Looks like you have some wiring to deal with.

Hate to say it in a forum of perfectionists, but it is just a garage. If like most garages stuff will be hung over it anyway. Deal with the worst ones and let the others go.
 

cowboy73

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Feb 13, 2010
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2,609
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southern Indiana
8lb sledge hammer will remove that blocking quickly. Just tap it and it'll pop outta there. I would remove it instead of fiddling with trying to make it not proud of the studs.
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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18,487
Location
visalia ca
Wood plane
Power planer
Wood chisel
Belt sander
Cir saw, cut in half an knock out

Any of the above that you can do safely will work
 

Lynden

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May 23, 2015
Messages
672
Location
Southern California
Another option is to rip long lengths of 1/2" plywood to attach to the studs between the top of the blocking and the bottom of the ceiling joists. Hang the drywall up to the bottom of the blocking and then cover the gap between the plywood and the top of the drywall with 1x3 wood moulding. Might look nice.
 
Last edited:

Daniel Dudley

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Sep 4, 2009
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3,546
I'd do a combination of trying to knock them in, planing them down, and or removing the worst offenders. I'd have a sawzall, a planer, a sledge and a ladder out there, and I would expect it to take less than a couple of hours tops.
 

CTyankee

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Jan 13, 2013
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CT
I'd do a combination of trying to knock them in, planing them down, and or removing the worst offenders. I'd have a sawzall, a planer, a sledge and a ladder out there, and I would expect it to take less than a couple of hours tops.

I'd probably plane them down and sawzall the worst ones out too. Not a fan of taking a sledge to any existing wall myself, unless it's too remove it. How many nails are holding them in?
 
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Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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New England
First thought is 2 inch chisel or planer but if there are any nails or remnants that will get ugly.
Start with a small sledge and wack away. If they don’t move I’d sawzall in the middle and hammer it out.


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nmk_61802

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Mar 6, 2008
Messages
965
Location
Central IL
there may be nails from the sheathing into them, easiest, least destructive (IMO) would be a power planer

This is very likely...they were probably installed for the exterior sheeting as required by code. The electrical looks to be drilled thru, so they were probably installed when the garage was originally framed. I would power plane flush.
 

Shiftless

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Mar 9, 2014
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Location
East Bay SFO
This is very likely...they were probably installed for the exterior sheeting as required by code. The electrical looks to be drilled thru, so they were probably installed when the garage was originally framed. I would power plane flush.

According to the OP, those extra pieces of blocking were added to support the top edge of pegboard. So they were no doubt put up after the siding was installed.
As others have already said, I would examine each one and either slice it with a saw and knock it out if held in by a few short nails, or grab my electric planer after verifying that there were no nails to ruin the planer blade.
Might be a good excuse to buy a power planer if you don’t already have one. I use mine once in a while. It’s a handy tool.

Make sure to put nail blocking plates over those areas where electrical cable is near the front edge.
 
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