Best Interior Wall Material?

[Mudbone]

What would you go with for interior walls if cost was no object. For an auto shop that will have insulated walls. I really dislike using drywall in a shop application. I think my preference would be for concrete or block wall with a good paint job similar to what they have in a lot of institutional buildings like schools. I like the fire proof aspect, esp. with a lot of welding and grinding going on. I know a lot of folks don't like having electrical, etc exposed but I like the fact that it is all open and accessable for making repairs and changes.

What do you like?

 

[csp]

FRP panels

 

[ny1]

Poured concrete or block.

 

[tskills10]

If you like the block idea for garage walls, check out Mark's garage. Scroll through the pages and you'll what he did. His is all block, but his wiring is hidden. good Luck.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=147690

 

[PAToyota]

Block or concrete would be good for the reasons you listed, but limit the ability to insulate or change things such as wiring.

Why do you dislike drywall? I've found people that use less than 5/8" in "industrial" settings complain about how easy it is to damage. But you'd be surprised at how much more solid 5/8" is over 1/2" - and I wouldn't even consider 3/8" for interior residential use...

 

[adragontattoo]

If money was no object?

Id use 6" poured concrete sandwiching 6" rigid Foam and ducting to run cabling in. (6" Concrete|6"foam with ducting for cables|6" Concrete) Worst case, I can frame a wall in and "adjust" the positions of things if I needed to.

If I ever build a home, it will be built to last.

 

[camarotoolman]

mOST GARAGES IN FL. ARE CONCRETE BLOCK. Its stronger than wood, and bugs don't eat it.

 

[Falcon67]

I like my OSB - so far it's working out very well as a wall cover. With some of the screw on hangers, etc you can put stuff anywhere on the wall. Where I'll be welding, I will just back the area with an appropriate piece of metal (roofing tin, whatever). Block walls are also nice.

If I had unlimited funds LOL - I would do block for permanence, then insulation/foam at least R13 or better, then 12" wide wood plank and exposed "studs" with white wash for that old school wood garage/shop look.

 

[rlitman]

mOST GARAGES IN FL. ARE CONCRETE BLOCK. Its stronger than wood, and bugs don't eat it.

Bugs don't eat steel studs and gypsum either. Commercial buildings around here use 3/4" sheetrock. You could use cementboard too.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

I've got half sheetrock, the other half still exposed framing. I plan to use simple plywood with exposed screwheads. I want the ability to be able to mount anything anywhere without having to worry about drywall strength, plus the access options of being able to unscrew the entire panel.

I might go with hardboard or finished plywood on its side for the sidewalls for the first 4 feet up as a wearable surface that can be replaced.

 

[ManxRacer]

I used Fiber Reinforced Plastic (FRP) over moisture resistant dry wall. If you're going to be doing any welding, I'd consider covering the walls near your welding area with some sort of metal.

If cost wasn't a factor, I'd likely have covered the walls with cement board and covered that with FRP.

My intent in using FRP was to allow me to wash a vehicle in my garage in bad weather. I installed two rectangular drains in my floor before the slab was poured.

 

[Mudbone]

If I had unlimited funds LOL - I would do block for permanence, then insulation/foam at least R13 or better, then 12" wide wood plank and exposed "studs" with white wash for that old school wood garage/shop look.

That's similar to what I was thinking. Block walls with a 18-24 inch high brick veneer, then insulation and nailing strips from the top of the brick up, with siding to match the house. Then a bridge crane sitting on top of the block walls.

Although the FRP is an interesting alternative I had not thought of.

Anybody out there actually have block walls and notice that it is significally louder in there when running air tools?

Thanks for the ideas guys.

 

[Kevin54]

What would you go with for interior walls if cost was no object. For an auto shop that will have insulated walls. I really dislike using drywall in a shop application. I think my preference would be for concrete or block wall with a good paint job similar to what they have in a lot of institutional buildings like schools. I like the fire proof aspect, esp. with a lot of welding and grinding going on. I know a lot of folks don't like having electrical, etc exposed but I like the fact that it is all open and accessable for making repairs and changes.

What do you like?

That's similar to what I was thinking. Block walls with a 18-24 inch high brick veneer, then insulation and nailing strips from the top of the brick up, with siding to match the house. Then a bridge crane sitting on top of the block walls.

Although the FRP is an interesting alternative I had not thought of.

Anybody out there actually have block walls and notice that it is significally louder in there when running air tools?

Thanks for the ideas guys.

Not knowing your location, insulation depends on where you are at. You may need a lot or you may not need much at all.

Block is sturdy. but if you want to insulate, then you will have to add furring strips, or build a 2x wall inside the block to be able to insulate. If you do that, then you may just as well stick frame it then insulate it. You could always brick it on the outside for added fire protection.

The easiest to do would either build a pole building, insulate, then put metal inside and outside, or build 2x walls on top of a foundation and do the same as far as finishing it off.

 

[hockey88fan]

I'm thinking of using smartside, prepainted osb

 

[Mudbone]

Block is sturdy. but if you want to insulate, then you will have to add furring strips, or build a 2x wall inside the block to be able to insulate. If you do that, then you may just as well stick frame it then insulate it. You could always brick it on the outside for added fire protection.

I am in NC. We have sub freezing in the winter and back in July we had multiple days over 100 F.
Actually, I was describing putting the insulation on the outside of the block. Since I want a low brick veneer so it will match the brick veneer on the foundation of my house, this gives me a 3.5 to four inch ledge that the rest of the wall must come flush to. I could use solid board insulation and then put siding on the outside of that. However this has to be done correctly. I think you have to use some type of furring strip on top of the insulation. I have seen siding put directly on insulation incorrectly. It sags after awhile and get wavy. Full studs could be used but that would cut down on the insulation and there would be thermal conductivity at each stud.
The insulation on the outside would work better because it keeps the block wall from acting as a big heat sink.

 

[UpstateNY]

I'm thinking of using smartside, prepainted osb

Over anything or just affixed to the wall studs ?

 

[Gary S]

I like my OSB - so far it's working out very well as a wall cover.

Same here. I like OSB the best. Mine is installed with screws so I can remove any panel at any time if I need inside access.

On a previous garage I had drywall. It fast turned into crumbling wetwall with the winter snow and humidity.

 

[MikelHochst]

Poured concrete or block.

 

[csp]

Isn't the question about interior wall material and not what the walls are constructed of?

 

[hockey88fan]

Over anything or just affixed to the wall studs ?

I don't know actually, still in the research phase. Was hoping someone would chime in who has done it. Whats not to like about the stuff, looks like t1-11, yet it's smooth and pre painted.

 

[Falcon67]

I don't know actually, still in the research phase. Was hoping someone would chime in who has done it. Whats not to like about the stuff, looks like t1-11, yet it's smooth and pre painted.

If it's LP SmartSide, it can be installed directly to the studs on max 24" on center. LP is not cheap - about $25~28/sheet here- but would make a nice interior wall cover.

Follow up - my OSB is also installed with screws. It does make for interesting thought processes. If you think that plug should have been a double gang plug? Then remove the wall panel, change the box, enlarge the panel hole, re-install the panel. Ha. Not with drywall for sure.

 

[UpstateNY]

If it's LP SmartSide, it can be installed directly to the studs on max 24" on center. LP is not cheap - about $25~28/sheet here- but would make a nice interior wall cover.

Follow up - my OSB is also installed with screws. It does make for interesting thought processes. If you think that plug should have been a double gang plug? Then remove the wall panel, change the box, enlarge the panel hole, re-install the panel. Ha. Not with drywall for sure.

Also in the research stage. I have 16" o/c studs. I know I could use SmartSide on the interior of the garage, and it would look good, but it's too thin to hang anything from it (.375 inch). You'd still have to find a stud I would think.

 

[hockey88fan]

Also in the research stage. I have 16" o/c studs. I know I could use SmartSide on the interior of the garage, and it would look good, but it's too thin to hang anything from it (.375 inch). You'd still have to find a stud I would think.

Idk, and also I couldn't seem to find matching trim for it at my lowes.

 

[Falcon67]

I used LP on the old shop. My 1st grandson and I tested the impact resistance for 10 years, no problem. Baseballs, tennis balls, footballs - you name it, it bounced off that 24' backstop.

 

[bgarrett]

I plan to use white metal roofing, wrong side out, vertically.
Ribs to the wall so small items wont fall between the shelf and wall
Fire proof, reflective

 

[Spudland_Dave]

One of the great construction questions I'm pondering as well. I wish there was a sanded top 7/16 OSB where once mudded & painted, would look like sheetrock.

How about splitting the difference? One thing I thought of, was 3/8" OSB or Plywood with a top layer of 3/8" Sheetrock?

Problem with Sheetrock alone is it brings nothing to the party other then nice looks. At least if you sheath with anything else you gain strength in the process.

When you figure in costs, as much as I want the look of a Sheetrocked & Painted Garage, OSB wins when you figure in strength and costs.
I'm just glad I dont have to sheath the inside anytime soon.

Garage Liner Steel is nice stuff, BUT I dont like the looks of having surface mounted conduit, boxes, etc... Even mounting the garage door rail brackets and such isnt too eye candy-ish...

 

[snowpromod]

I did a 3' wainscot of corrugated galvanized with osb above, I am happy with it - looks like a big Chipotle, LOL