Best manual impact driver

[ecotec]

I have 2 3/8” drive manual impacts. One Cornwell set, and one Lisle. I also have a 1/2” drive Lisle.

I have used all of my sets and some other people’s sets (Snap-on, Koken, Craftsman Lisle…). I think that all of the brands are pretty good. It is when people remain unconvinced that they need to use a manual impact… that they start ******* **** up (those screws on old Honda brake rotors…).

VIM is good for spare bits. They have 6 or 7 different sets of bits for manual impacts.

 

[gatewaysysop]

I have a 1/2" model from Jawco that works great and US-made. I believe it ships with Taiwan made bits, but the impact itself is made in USA.

 

[dnschmidt]

Astro sells one and it works fine but having about 15 impact wrenches and four impact drivers what's the purpose of a manual driver? I also have the Vessel Impacta #2 and #3 Phillips impact drivers and they are really great on Japanese motorcycles.

 

[KnurledNut]

having about 15 impact wrenches and four impact drivers what's the purpose of a manual driver?

Those only apply a twisting force.
Hand impacts apply linear AND rotational forces.
For some applications, there is an advantage in a single focused blow.

 

[pizzabooty]

Astro sells one and it works fine but having about 15 impact wrenches and four impact drivers what's the purpose of a manual driver? I also have the Vessel Impacta #2 and #3 Phillips impact drivers and they are really great on Japanese motorcycles.

Manual drivers simultaneously apply torque and downward force, so they do a pretty damn good job of sticking in fasteners and not stripping them while also turning them free.

Impact wrenches are extremely good for sustained force tho, especially on nuts and bolts when it's usually less important to apply downward force.

 

[JWC86]

Wow old thread!

I was getting back into old Jap bikes and needed a impact driver. I went with a Vessel since it is a known good unit and comes with high quality JIS bits. It has been working great for me.

As for why we need a manual when we have electric options? It’s the force of smacking the fastener inward and the shock created with a 3lb hammer that just can’t be replicated with a electric impact. This is especially true with machine screws which old Jap bikes are full off. If you try to go at these with a electric impact you will most likely just end up with striped screw heads.

 

[ecotec]

Wow old thread!

I was getting back into old Jap bikes and needed a impact driver. I went with a Vessel since it is a known good unit and comes with high quality JIS bits. It has been working great for me.

As for why we need a manual when we have electric options? It’s the force of smacking the fastener inward and the shock created with a 3lb hammer that just can’t be replicated with a electric impact. This is especially true with machine screws which old Jap bikes are full off. If you try to go at these with a electric impact you will most likely just end up with striped screw heads.

Perfect answer.

 

[F-22]

BTW in regards to bikes, be very careful with carburetors. E.g. the CV Bings used on BMWs, it's very easy to snap the casting if you try to remove the two or three phillips screws holding the top membrane cover on. Same for certain Mikunis and Keihins... At least Dellorto used a much more wrench-friendly design (and possibly the most adaptable one too, those carbs can be made to work with anything very well, but they're not the most economical...).

 

[will335i]

Williams. USA made driver and bits.

 

[mvdavid]

Williams. USA made driver and bits.

I have been using a KD driver off and on for 50 years or so, i got good quality 5/16 shank bits from Mcmaster 5 or so years ago.