best non insulated crimp terminals?

[mslim]

I'm tired of using the color coded insulated crimpon wire terminals. I want to use non-insulated male and female spade terminals from now on with heat-shrink to insulate the joint. I'm going to spend the bucks for a Pressmaster or Hozan crimper that does two crimps. A deep one for the bare wire and a shallower one for the insulation.

Who makes the best terminals for auto and motorcycle use? Panduit? Thomas and Betts? Who else?

 

[JBH]

Who makes the best terminals for auto and motorcycle use? Panduit? Thomas and Betts? Who else?

I would expect any of the prominent brands to make good parts. I usually use Amp/TE or Knipex non-insulated terminals. I do not know who makes the Knipex-branded terminals. Both work well, though the Amp/TE Fastons do not work with my crimp tool's locator.

If you want to make repeatably accurate crimps quickly, my advice is to start with the crimp tool. Find one with a locator. You insert the quick-disconnect into the locator, which aligns the connector is forced to be at the right depth and in the right orientation. Then buy the connectors sized to work with your crimp tool and locator. They are unfortunately not all fully compatible.

I'm not sure offhand who offers locators for non-insulated terminals other than Knipex/Rennsteig Crimp System, which is what I use. Panduit sells a Wezag-made crimp tool with a locator for their insulated terminals, but I have not seen a non-insulated version of it.

 

[5ktq]

AMP (tyco) is the biggest probably. their quick connect line is called "faston".

You can get them from the usual electronics suppliers, digikey, mouser, newark. I feel like mouser has the best selection of automotive connectors (housings, etc, not just terminals), but newark is usually better on price.

You're thinking of these, yeah?

Mouser has a lot of the amp junior timer housings (mostly german cars use that), but they also carry some delphi stuff for GM.


I don't know what environment your vehicles will be in but if it gets salty I'd recommend using sealed connectors. The terminals inside are the same idea, but the housings are all sealed. (same crimper would work for these).

junior timer, old german connector, sealed or not

modern sealed german style, uses same contacts as above

Then here's a few deplhi ones, probably recognize these from GM cars

"weatherpack"

"metripack" - come in 3 terminal variants for current capability, 6.3mm, 2.8mm, and some tiny one. Roughly american take on german standard/junior/micro timer series.

Deutsch "DT" and clones are very common in industry

and there are 1000 japanese ones on top of that.


Anyway I guess point is a good open barrel crimper will crimp any of those. (the ratcheting type that crimp the wire and insulation in one stroke won't though, as they're more tailored).

Edit: I have a bunch of ratcheting crimpers which work great for a specific 1 or 2 terminals with 1 or 2 wire sizes, but outside of that they are very restrictive. Cheapo non ratcheting ones where you can pick both dies for the crimp and insulation are more versatile in that regard.

I usually use Molex one like this. $40 or 50 I think.

 

[Flat-rate]

I like T&B also known as sta-Kon.

Also Auveco makes a quality product.
https://www.auveco.com/product/electric.html

No complaints with either brand.

 

[mslim]

Thanks for all the informed replies. Is straight brass or tin plated brass best for an automobile or motorcycle application?

 

[rlitman]

Tinned is more corrosion resistant. Gold is good too.

 

[lestat]

You can find top quality crimpers under quite a few brands, most costing an arm and a leg but look behind the logo and everything pretty much boils down to 3 manufacturers: Pressmaster, Wezag and Knipex. Each have their own unique look so once you've seen enough of them, you'll be able to spot the good ones no matter what the rebrand is.

We're talking about generic non-insulated crimpers, not proprietary molex, AMP, weatherpack etc. For those you get the Hozan P-706. With miniature terminals, you are much better with the non-ratcheting type (unless it's OEM, but you pay a lot for those and they're one trick ponies!).

 

[kapster]

Reviving an old thread, thought that would make more sense then starting another with much the same title and topic.

I would also like to build up a selection of non insulated terminals and heat shrink after crimp, I've been pulling the insulator off the terminals I have but would be much nicer to buy them that way.

What is the advantage to the above mentioned double crimp(insulation and conductor)? Should I be considering that over the standard crimp terminals?

I found some nice deals from Sherco automotive for kits, anyone used them? They tell me the terminals are made by Hillsdale terminal in the USA.

https://www.sherco-auto.com/1200-pcs-non-insulated-crimp-terminals.html

https://www.sherco-auto.com/2600-pcs-master-non-insulated-crimp-terminal-assortment-kit.html

I use a lot of ring terminals, if I have to a spade connector, sometimes use **** connectors. Both these kits, especially the 2600, have a lot of blade quick connects. Are these that common anymore, and if so what situation? I cant remember the last time I used one (diy and farm repair) but maybe Im missing something?

Side note, I really like my astro pneumatic ratcheting crimper with replaceable jaws. I use it for wire ferrules, non insulated and above pictured dual crimp terminals. Has never disappointed.