Best O2 sensor socket/wrench

[toolmaker1]

Just wondered what you all have found to be the best socket or wrench for removing O2 sensors. Any of the cheaper sockets I've tried have spread and torn up the sensor without budging it. Actually the last sensor I replaced on my dodge got heated cherry red and cooled several cycles and still wouldn't budge so I had to weld a new bung behind it for the new sensor and left the old one there. This is one tool that I would not mind at all spending tool truck prices for if there is a good soloution.

 

[CoreyVanDine]

A good air hammer and a 12" long chisel bit almost always does the trick for me if the sockets spread. Also try the crowsfoot style they seem to give a bit more leverage without spreading.

 

[Tom2]

I'd like to know too. If it doesn't want to come loose, I usually just grind it down so I can fit a standard socket on it. If it's rusted on that bad, it probably needs replacing anyways.

 

[toolmaker1]

On another note I see that Lisle makes a 22mm gadget that fits on an air hammer to break them loose. Anyone tried one? Im thinking of getting a flank drive 6point SO wrench to try for the next one but there would still probably be a cheater pipe involved

 

[DrkMtnDew]

i don't know if this is the best but it is my favorite so far.

 

[turrican]

If the wires fit, and the socket fits all the way to the hex on the sensor (some sensors have a dish-type thing around the hex that makes it hard to get a thicker socket in there), this one is my go-to:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009OMYA6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I also have a number of other ones, like the deep Snap-on chrome one (which often flexes and spreads) and the shorty ones like the pic in the post above, but the Lisle one has saved my **** more times than any of the others.

 

[ImportTuner]

On another note I see that Lisle makes a 22mm gadget that fits on an air hammer to break them loose. Anyone tried one? Im thinking of getting a flank drive 6point SO wrench to try for the next one but there would still probably be a cheater pipe involved

I have it .. and the socket did the spreading thing .. I ended up breaking the O2 sensor with a BFH and chipping everything out on a Honda Accord ..

 

[turrican]

I should also mention that occasionally I'll just air chisel (or prybar & hammer) the top off of the sensor, so it leaves just the hex, and then pop a regular socket on that.

 

[dede2897234]

When I replaced 2 oxygen sensors on my 2003 Subaru Forester 4 years ago, I tried to use the oxygen sensor socket and crowsfoot (mentioned by "turrican" and "drkmtndew" above) and would not budge them. To get them off, I ran my car for 5 minute periods to get the oxygen sensors very hot. I used the leverage of a long 22mm combination wrench's box end (after disconnecting the oxygen sensors' wires) to turn them less than one-half each time. What a pain in the ***!

About a year ago, I purchased Induction Innovations Mini Ductor II Magnetic Induction Heater Kit. I cannot wait to use it the next time when I need to replace the oxygen sensors. Here is a link to the tool on the manufacturer's website: LINK.


Dave

 

[MechanicNamedJohn]

When I replaced 2 oxygen sensors on my 2003 Subaru Forester 4 years ago, I tried to use the oxygen sensor socket and crowsfoot (mentioned by "turrican" and "drkmtndew" above) and would not budge them. To get them off, I ran my car for 5 minute periods to get the oxygen sensors very hot. I used the leverage of a long 22mm combination wrench's box end (after disconnecting the oxygen sensors' wires) to turn them less than one-half each time. What a pain in the ***!

About a year ago, I purchased Induction Innovations Mini Ductor II Magnetic Induction Heater Kit. I cannot wait to use it the next time when I need to replace the oxygen sensors. Here is a link to the tool on the manufacturer's website: LINK.


Dave

I want that... I think I may just have to order it.

 

[dede2897234]

mechanicnamedjohn,

When I purchased the Mini Ductor II from Tooltopia last year, the basic kit (IDIMD700) cost $400.00. It is now listed on Tooltopia for $569.05. Last year, I also purchased the coil kit (IDIMD99650) for $100.00. Tooltopia now sells it for $133.00.


Dave

 

[MechanicNamedJohn]

Is this the same one you have?

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS399US399&q=Mini+Ductor+II&um=1&hl=en&biw=1680&bih=941&ie=UTF-8&cid=6242576589489038235&ei=aq1UTbG9D4Ks8AbH2cnTBw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CHwQ8wIwBQ#

 

[nato]

Autozone carries a 3 pc. set made by their in-house toolmaker, OEM that includes one short offset, one medium offset and a chrome deep well socket w/ the slit on the side for the harness that was like $30. I use it, professionally, and it's a great set! Lifetime warranty and built just the same as any other light duty specialty tool set.

 

[dede2897234]

Is this the same one you have?

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS399US399&q=Mini+Ductor+II&um=1&hl=en&biw=1680&bih=941&ie=UTF-8&cid=6242576589489038235&ei=aq1UTbG9D4Ks8AbH2cnTBw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CHwQ8wIwBQ#

mechanicnamedjohn,

The link you provided is for the original Mini Ductor. I own the Mini Ductor II.

Here is a link to the Mini Ductor II on Tooltopia's website: LINK.


Dave

 

[MechanicNamedJohn]

I found it here for less, this is it, yes?
http://www.tooloutfitters.com/mini-ductor-ii-magnetic-induction-heater-kit.html

I may just have to pull the trigger.

If this is the same, do I need to purchase anything else or is the kit complete?

 

[nato]

I found it here for less, this is it, yes?
http://www.tooloutfitters.com/mini-ductor-ii-magnetic-induction-heater-kit.html

I may just have to pull the trigger.

If this is the same, do I need to purchase anything else or is the kit complete?

We have one at work.....if you can, get the attachment kit (Coil Kit) that has the corkscrew style wire elements.....it works great for deep threaded nuts that are on studs out of reach
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/coil-kit-flameless-heat-mini-ductor-md99-650-p-15984.aspx

 

[dede2897234]

I found it here for less, this is it, yes?
http://www.tooloutfitters.com/mini-ductor-ii-magnetic-induction-heater-kit.html

I may just have to pull the trigger.

If this is the same, do I need to purchase anything else or is the kit complete?

mechanicnamedjohn,

I also found this tool reseller tonight while searching current prices on Google Shopping. I have no experience or heard of this tool reseller. I would do some research on them before placing an order.

The link you provided to ToolOutfitters is indeed for the Mini Ductor II. I would purchased the basic kit (the one in the link) plus the coil kit as per this Tooltopia link: LINK. I read in the Mini Ductor II's owner's manual that the coils wear out due to the frequency of use and the heat generated by the main unit. Since you work as a mechanic, I would invest in the coil kit as well.

Please post back on your order experience with ToolOutfitters if you decide to order from them.


Dave

 

[moparmuscle88]

depends on if you are reusing it. the snap on 6 pt flex flare nut thing is cool, but limited access because of 6 point

the sockets IMO are garbage

if you are replacing it, and are positive its not going back, sawzall the body off, the stick a regular 6pt socket on the nut part thats left.

 

[Danglerb]

Time to step up to Harbor Freight ...

 

[plinker]

I have a sensor socket set From Napa (K-D) and it has two crowfoot & one deep socket style sensor sockets.

I used the one crowfoot when changing the sensors on my car last sunday, worked well.

I also have and use an O2 sensor thread chaser before putting in the new sensor.



If the sensor is coming out and getting replaced, why not just cut the wires and use a regular socket to remove the sensor and install with the proper sensor socket?

 

[Greatbear]

If it looks like a split O2 socket will not turn a sensor due to seizure, I stop right there, cut the upper body off with a cutoff tool and remove it with an impact. In most cases a 7/8" impact universal socket and an extension can get to most sensors in various positions.

 

[SledgeFix]

Anyone use a propane torch right on the bung? Getting it dull-red (takes a solid minute sometimes) has made them all spin right out with a regular wrench for me.

 

[turrican]

Anyone use a propane torch right on the bung? Getting it dull-red (takes a solid minute sometimes) has made them all spin right out with a regular wrench for me.

Yes, I do usually heat up the bung, if I can get to it.

 

[rodm1]

I wonder about this never used it.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFN9PY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Fedwrench]

I have the Lisle air hammer tool. It works well. I prefer to have things warm, spray the hell of it with PB Blaster and use the crow foot from Schely or SP tools.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I'm surprised that no one here has used this one:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1448&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Was looking at it on the truck today and it seemed to be pretty stout compared to a regular socket.

 

[williaty]

Interesting. I didn't know that snap-on tool existed. I just bought a knock-off of that for $11.99 shipped off of Amazon. If the shape works, but I end up breaking the tool, I may buy the Snap-On version next.

 

[vonoretn]

A good air hammer and a 12" long chisel bit almost always does the trick for me if the sockets spread. Also try the crowsfoot style they seem to give a bit more leverage without spreading.

Do you mean to break it off so you can put a regular socket on it, or do you use the chisel at the base of the sensor to shake it loose enough to turn?

 

[vonoretn]

Yes, I do usually heat up the bung, if I can get to it.

This is possibly a dumb question asked a year and a half too late, based on the thread date. What is the bung? If you are heating up the sensor base, that should make it harder to get out because it would expand. If that is the metal (steel or iron) that the sensor screws into, that makes sense, since it should expand the hole size. Just want to know where to focus the heat.

 

[BrokewrenchLS1]

This is possibly a dumb question asked a year and a half too late, based on the thread date. What is the bung? If you are heating up the sensor base, that should make it harder to get out because it would expand. If that is the metal (steel or iron) that the sensor screws into, that makes sense, since it should expand the hole size. Just want to know where to focus the heat.

The bung is actual threaded bit in the exhaust that the sensor screws in to. If you heat the bung up, it expands more than the sensor does, which loosens things up. Same principle for heating anything up to install/remove, from harmonic balancers to rusted bolts.

 

[CJKaz]

22 MM short box wrench, MAPP torch & deadblow hammer has never failed. Cut the wire & fit the wrench, heat the bung & a good hit with the hammer will get it.

 

[1SlowFormula]

I am a little lazy and haven't read this whole thread, but I just took an old deep well 6pt socket, with an angle grinder ground a slit up one of the flats (trying to keep it centered in the flat) and only as far as it needed to go to allow the wire to come out the slot without taking too much material off the socket. I slipped a hose clamp over the sensor, then once I put the socket on the sensor, I clamped the hose clamp down over the split bottom of the socket, then used a breaker bar, and a 4 foot piece of pipe, off the handle to get my really stuck on O2 sensonsors off, never had an issue. Just make sure if you do this not to clamp the wire into the hose clamp...

 

[NedNorton]

I use the Hazet 4680-2. It's not the cheapest option out there but it gets the job done without any drama. It's an extra deep socket with the slit and it doesn't flex. Even on a breaker bar with cheater pipe it fits tight. Also, you can't beat the added depth especially with the Bosch sensors.

Here you can see the thickness difference between the Hazet and a regular snap-on deep 22mm

It's worth the money.

 

[6-Speed]

I use the Hazet 4680-2.

It's worth the money.

Looks beefy ... where can you those in the US?

 

[shampoop]

I've had no problems removing O2 sensors with just my HF O2 sensor socket and my Gearwrench flex head flare nut wrench set + some penetrating oil. Granted though, they don't salt the roads on the west coast.

 

[NedNorton]

I picked up mine on eBay a while ago. I just looked and there is a seller that still imports the specialty items for european autos. I use Hazet stuff mostly on bmw's. Some things they offer just work really well. The 21mm,22mm strut sockets with the cut outs for the allen wrench and the o2 sensor socket being the first ones that come to mind. Maybe the 36mm 3/8 drive socket for the oil filter housings too. They make quality tools that are on par with my snap-on stuff. Be prepared... With the cost of importing them added in, the prices may make your eyes bleed. It did when I first looked and I buy off the tool trucks. Ymmv.

Cheers.

 

[Shootingblanks]

i don't know if this is the best but it is my favorite so far.

I have the exact same one. You can use a 3/8 drive or 1/2 drive. Very versatile.

 

[xstubsx]

acetylene + 22mm wrench

 

[jensputzier]

Looks beefy ... where can you those in the US?

That's 49.80 Euro (65US$) plus 12 Euro for shipping. If you can't them in the US.

 

[Vvmvbb]

I like the Sir Tools :