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Best options for masonry job

Learninggal

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Folks - can somebody review the attached pic and comment on the best option to fix it. We plan to live in this house another 10-15 years. The local painter said he'll scrape out needed portions first, then fix all the cracks mixing cement & sand to make stucco and then apply 1 layer of Theracoat which he expects will last 10 years here in the north east. Obviously the chimney needs fixing but the main reason is there is a leak in the room right besides the chimney on the left side. We originally though it's related to the roof and the roofer reinstalled the flashing and a few shingles and rooted out not to be the issue. There are a lot of cracks in the chimney and the corner besides it so that's an avenue we need to pursue. We could either go with the above method or perhaps it's better to get all the stucco out from the whole chimney which could be a bigger job and then power wash the brick and simply apply some sort of a sealant but leave it bare. Trying to keep costs low on this one


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73fxe

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It looks like the chimney dose need work but have You checked the cap? I'd guess that the water is coming in from on top and leaking out of the cracks in the brick.
 
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Learninggal

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Yes cap is closed off and the roofer did me a favor and caulked all around it and applied tar to all potential areas of leak on the top
 

Zeke

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IDK what Theracoat is but if that is a lumber framed chimney with plaster on it then it needs serious work. Like sandblast and redo the brown coat with Type 3 cement used for the mix. Then a new stucco coat and sealing.

Hard to see, but is that painted half dark and half light at the top? Never seen that.

If you do the brown coat, redo the flashings. I've seen too many that are not counterflashed or otherwise defective.
 

txvwnut

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Chip the stucco off and then go from there. The removal could be DIY if you don’t mind heights and have an air hammer or roto-hammer. Anything else would just be a patch that would have be to redone in a short manner of time, if you go down to the base and start from there then you’ll know what you have.
 

DGersic

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I had a similar leak, with a chimney / fireplace. The solution was to demo the whole wall. It all went in a dumpster. Replaced with framed wall, new roof without the cutout, and windows.

Doesn't leak any more.
 

BillK

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The local painter said .................
I think I would have to call a chimney inspection/repair business first and find out exactly what is going on. You could spend a lot of money with the painter and not fix anything.

Obviously the chimney needs fixing but the main reason is there is a leak in the room right besides the chimney on the left side.
Do you know for certain what is leaking ??

Trying to keep costs low on this one

Probably wont happen but you never know. I certainly would not spend any money painting without having it inspected first by somebody who knows something about chimneys.
 

strutaeng

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Yeah, same as what everyone else said about finding and stopping the leak first. Sounds like you got it fixed.

I've never hear of Theracoat either. I Googled it got something for dogs. 🤷

Elastomeric coating is what you really want here. It's a thick coating that bridges small hairline cracks and stops wind-driven rain intrusion on masonry walls. Large cracks will have to be addressed separately though.
 

bb29510

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in my field, they rub alot of concrete, out fall, manhole fdn, concrete walls. Aroound here they use a bagged mix called "concrete finisher" its not a true 1/2 inch stucco but its hard to tell the differents.
 

Bert_

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Yes cap is closed off and the roofer did me a favor and caulked all around it and applied tar to all potential areas of leak on the top
This is a red flag to me. Caulk and tar is a very short term fix. If this is his solution, plan to be up there adding more every year. A proper cap and flashing is needed for a long lasting repair

From the picture, it does not look like there is a proper cap
 
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Learninggal

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Yes sorry Thorocoat it is!

You guys have given me something to think about. I wonder if the leak is coming from inside the chimney to the bedroom which is adjacent to it and if this is better handled by a chimney repair company vs a siding company. I know of a good local chimney guy who said he will do video laser test with camera and find cracks and then fix from the inside
 
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reader2580

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I had a similar leak, with a chimney / fireplace. The solution was to demo the whole wall. It all went in a dumpster. Replaced with framed wall, new roof without the cutout, and windows.

Doesn't leak any more.
I had a chimney at my house when I bought the house. It was leaking around the chimney bad and it was only for a non-existent wood stove that used to be in the basement. I ended up spending a weekend removing the chimney and then had the hole in the roof patched. It was not a big fancy decorative chimney.
 

Uncle murph

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This is a red flag to me. Caulk and tar is a very short term fix. If this is his solution, plan to be up there adding more every year. A proper cap and flashing is needed for a long lasting repair

From the picture, it does not look like there is a proper cap
Caulk is cosmetic,its not a actual repair.
 
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Learninggal

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Forgot to mention, years ago we've seen a plat growing on the chimney and the root might have damanged some of the bricks, on the side where the bedroom is, we had a guy come and removed it. Had a chimney company come this morning to give a quote. He went up and look the chimney. The said the lining of the chimney is clay tile 8x13 which was common used back in the day with wood and coal burning, he recommended to replace with 5 inch metal pipe from top all the way to the basement where it connects to hot water tank. he will also patch some of the loose stucco with cement around. the quote is $1600. Should I request him to build a chimney crown since it's mainly just covered in tar right now and most likely should be redone due to the plant growing in the past and he most likely couldn't see any cracks because it was covered in tar. Do to guys think rain water could be weeping in and doing this work could possibly help out
 
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Learninggal

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Got this from a local company, any idea what this work it would cost? He said his boss will call in a day or two to give us a better price if he can but this is the work they plan to do and it’ll take 4 guys about 1/2 day - they will do all this work from roof itself, no need of a scaffolding
 

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firebirdparts

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he recommended to replace with 5 inch metal pipe from top all the way to the basement where it connects to hot water tank. he will also patch some of the loose stucco with cement around. the quote is $1600. Should I request him to build a chimney crown since it's mainly just covered in tar right now and most likely should be redone due to the plant growing in the past and he most likely couldn't see any cracks because it was covered in tar. Do to guys think rain water could be weeping in and doing this work could possibly help out
He's wasting a lot of money here, in my opinion, trying to build a chimney. Unless you want a chimney, which I wouldn't. What you need is somebody to stop the water. You need a metal chimney cap covering all the brickwork and you probably have a 90% chance that stops the rain.
 
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Learninggal

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We like that idea but the quote we got for our 24x48 cap coving the whole attic like you suggest was $4000
 

Jackfre

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You don’t say what your heat method is. If the chiimney is only for a water heater I would tear it down and upgrade to a heat pump water heater or tankless. Basically with todays appliances masonry chimneys are good architectural devices but terrible mechanical devices. This is especially so when it is an outside chimney. Out of a basement and two stories up I would use 3 or max 4” B-vent for your liner. A single 5” unlined pipe will not solve the problem. Yu are approaching the end of the heating season right now. I would wait the season out and do a bit more research on options. I would not put a penny into rehabbing that chimney. It has served it purpose. Poorly, but it is done. By way of qualification on this topic, I was amanuf rep in New England and represented Selkirk, Dura-vent, Z-Flex and Tjernlund. I dealt with problems like yours for 25 yrs.
 
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Learninggal

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Here are the pictures the chimney guys took yesterday. Our roofers tarred all over the chimney and replaced the flashing after we told them that water was leaking into the bedroom wall right next to the chimney
 

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Learninggal

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We have a gas furnace in the attic supplying to the 2nd floor venthing out through the chimney, another one in the basement replaced last year supplying to the first floor and basement venting out through the side wall of the house. Hot water boiler in the basement vents out to the chimney. Also rebuilding the side wall and roof will be very cost prohibitive if we take out the chimney
 
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Bert_

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The flashing is wrong also. I would want that done correctly if you are going to repair the rest
 

gahrajmahal

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I like our gas, forced vent water heater I installed it several years ago. It uses PVC pipe to vent outside and goes out the foundation. It cost around $700 but I installed it.
 

Toomanytools?

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It's a "Pay me now or pay me later" case. Do it right get it fixed so you don't have future leaks and more repair bills. If you go to sell in 10 years and an inspection is done and it is a concern you will either reduce your selling price or have it fixed for more. Everything is expensive these days and I feel your your pain.
 
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