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best penetrating spray

jvitez

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Penetrating my ***. :lol:

2 different animals.

It's unlikely to get all the way in..... to lessen the force required .....you are still providing 'enough' lubrication.

....gain a better method or have proper tool to bust the nut.......

If I am ....down something nasty I douche it....



I think this thread just entered the Twilight Zone. :eyecrazy:
 
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Olafur

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I think this thread just entered the Twilight Zone. :eyecrazy:
I guess next time, I will leave my *** out of the discussion. :lol:
I am however not responsible for whatever your mind comes up with. Thats your doing.
 
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sometoyotaguy

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Little known fact about PB Blaster - it is recognized as the single most repulsive smell imaginable to the female senses. They'd prefer that you dined on raw onions while smoking a cigar after bathing in sun-warmed tuna carcasses to simply walking downwind of a 10 second squirt of PB.

My wife hates the smell of that stuff, but I used to swear by it.

Now I use Aero Kroil. A can lasts quite a while, and it works better.
 

jvitez

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I guess next time, I will leave my *** out of the discussion. :lol:
I am however not responsible for whatever your mind comes up with. Thats your doing.

You can bring your donkey anywhere you like. :beer:

Sorry for the off topic post. I couldn't resist! :D




Now for my penetrating personal perspective:

1. PB Blaster
2. Liquid Wrench
3. Amsoil MP Metal Protector

Yup, the PB Blaster smells like rancid sebaceous pus. Liquid Wrench was my dear old Dad's go-to product so that's what I kept using , until PB Blaster became available here. PB is one step better on really rusted fasteners. Liquid Wrench smells great though (I love the smell of solvents in the morning......).

I'm impressed with Amsoil's MP Metal Protector. It's an excellent lubricant, an excellent rust preventative, it's dry when evaporated so not a sticky mess like Fluid Film (which is a superb rust preventive BTW), and yet works very well as a penetrating oil.
 

Engine

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I'm still thinking about this idea I mentioned earlier about trying to find or make something that would dissolve rust in between the threads so a fluid would penetrate better. You couldn't just use some acidic stuff because that would corrode the metal. But, if there was something that would mix with ATF there might be a way to make something that is really effective. Maybe even better than Kroil.
 

superchargedv8

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I'm still thinking about this idea I mentioned earlier about trying to find or make something that would dissolve rust in between the threads so a fluid would penetrate better. You couldn't just use some acidic stuff because that would corrode the metal. But, if there was something that would mix with ATF there might be a way to make something that is really effective. Maybe even better than Kroil.

acetone and atf as penetrating oil works pretty good.
 

mjoekingz28

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Can a fluid climb? Like if you dip a corner of a paper towel in water, it will get wet higher up. Is this just a wicking effect and a liquid cannot defy gravity?
 

twertsy

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Little known fact about PB Blaster - it is recognized as the single most repulsive smell imaginable to the female senses. They'd prefer that you dined on raw onions while smoking a cigar after bathing in sun-warmed tuna carcasses to simply walking downwind of a 10 second squirt of PB.

Now THAT'S some good information right there............:evil:
 

sberry

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You can believe what you want but Kroil isn't a huge leap and I don't bother with it anymore especially since they cheapened the can. Liq wrench, occasional blaster on sale and some CRC on sale.
 

highballxs

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In the marine ROV/AUV/Subermisible industry, it's practically mandated that the only penetrant/lubricant we can use is Silikroil. In fact, our stock rooms and ships will carry no other product. The problem with all other lubes including WD: a concern that they are not lab proven not to harm O-ring or rubber seals. Also, kroil is way more expensive, so it must be better... especially when grant money pays for it.

That said, its all just weasel p*ss

Ive tried all products to remove stuck pistons from salt water, and non worked but a hammer and heat. I'll use whatever is on hand.
 

blackwire

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Acetone melts plastic and rubber. I am not comfortable using the Acetone and ATF 50/50 mix. Modern cars have a lot of plastic and rubber parts, too much risk of overspray or spilling it on something. Liquid wrench has worked well in the past for me. Not the spray, the one in the "dropper" bottle.
 
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JBradley500

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Can a fluid climb? Like if you dip a corner of a paper towel in water, it will get wet higher up. Is this just a wicking effect and a liquid cannot defy gravity?

Osmosis is the spontaneous net movement of solvent molecules through a semi-permeable membrane into a region of higher solute concentration, in the direction that tends to equalize the solute concentrations on the two sides. haha.
 

MG11068

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Osmosis is the spontaneous net movement of solvent molecules through a semi-permeable membrane into a region of higher solute concentration, in the direction that tends to equalize the solute concentrations on the two sides. haha.

I believe the process that he is talking about is called capillary action.
 

sberry

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If a joint is sealed or friction welded no spray is going to help. It stays in the can it comes in. Doesn't go thru. There is no better way than to have a torch when dealing with this type of thing. On occasion a blind squirrel finds a nut, so a guy buys some Kroil and fixes one thing and feels like a super hero, news is that he could have done it anyway and in a few cases soaking didn't hurt a thing. Cant hurt to pre soak some rust. Liq Wrench would have done the same thing.
 

sberry

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One of my treats to me is paper towels and spray in a can. You can buy it by the gallon but that seems to have its problems. We pay for the convenience of the container in this case as its so widely used and I don't want it a mess. That's the fault with PB, it cums in a gush when a guy wants a couple drops to assemble a bolt or lug nut.
 

Shadowdog500

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I'm still thinking about this idea I mentioned earlier about trying to find or make something that would dissolve rust in between the threads so a fluid would penetrate better. You couldn't just use some acidic stuff because that would corrode the metal. But, if there was something that would mix with ATF there might be a way to make something that is really effective. Maybe even better than Kroil.

Kroil can work its way into one millionth of an inch and dissolve rust along the way.

Chris
 
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JRC3

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One thing to keep in mind is once you break the bolt or nut loose, you still have to unthread it past the exposed rusty threads. We've all seen nuts want to seize when trying to remove them and we've all learned to work the nut back and forth in both directions to help with this. Whether you believe penetrating oil helps with breaking the nut/bolt loose or not, you can't discount it helps work it past the exposed threads by loosing the rust and corrosion.
240_bolt_rust_rusted_273845_m.jpg

800px-rust_bolt.jpg


Usually I'd hit it with a wire wheel but sometimes that isn't possible and that oil sure helps.

Sometimes a deep socket with an extension is your best friend to bend it back and forth till it breaks. Especially on those pesky GM shock shaft nuts.
 

HammerRed

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Damn....not one person has mentioned FREE ALL. Knocks the dog piss out of PB blaster and made in Cleveland also. Ive never used this Kroil so cant compare, but somebody once said Free All will free anything but convicts. Best stuff ive used...ever. My shop gets it from LKQ and i hide cans of it around the shop in case we run out.
 

Engine

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Damn....not one person has mentioned FREE ALL. Knocks the dog piss out of PB blaster and made in Cleveland also. Ive never used this Kroil so cant compare, but somebody once said Free All will free anything but convicts. Best stuff ive used...ever. My shop gets it from LKQ and i hide cans of it around the shop in case we run out.

I've never heard of Free All until now.

The testimonials on their website sound so good
it makes me want to go unbolt the rusted-on exhaust
manifold bolts on my 1999 Dodge Ram pickup -- just for the fun of it.
:lol_hitti
 

90zcar

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So what stores sell this "kroil"???!!


Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk
 

Shadowdog500

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One thing to keep in mind is once you break the bolt or nut loose, you still have to unthread it past the exposed rusty threads. We've all seen nuts want to seize when trying to remove them and we've all learned to work the nut back and forth in both directions to help with this. Whether you believe penetrating oil helps with breaking the nut/bolt loose or not, you can't discount it helps work it past the exposed threads by loosing the rust and corrosion.
240_bolt_rust_rusted_273845_m.jpg

800px-rust_bolt.jpg


Usually I'd hit it with a wire wheel but sometimes that isn't possible and that oil sure helps.

Sometimes a deep socket with an extension is your best friend to bend it back and forth till it breaks. Especially on those pesky GM shock shaft nuts.

You can soak them in whatever you want, but Those look like a job for one of these. A nut splitter takes those pain in the *** GM shock shaft nuts right off.
Chris
ns2a.jpg
 

JRC3

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You can soak them in whatever you want, but Those look like a job for one of these. A nut splitter takes those pain in the *** GM shock shaft nuts right off.
Chris
ns2a.jpg

I have bolt splitters and stud removers but I cant recall ever using them. haha

My pics were only examples of rusty threads and not to be taken for every scenario.


And those GM shocks on an Astro van for example hidden inside the upper control arms, cant be broken by anything but a deep socket and leverage. Even more so on an Astro, those pocketed engine mounts nuts, they need all the oil they can get.
 

SASORacing

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laquer thinner and 10w 30, in a tin can with a rubber hose and hand pump/


But for more convience I like PB blaster. the aerosol high pressure and small tube make it easy to spray stuff.

I feel like pb blaster works better than wd 40.
 

bobcatdan

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I very solid in the Kroil camp. I watch for good try'em deals directly from Kano Labs to keep cost in check. I try to use it wisely and general can get six months out of a can. I have finally put PB down in favor of Starter M1 spray as my general use spray. I have not put it head to head against kroil to see how good of a pentrent it is, but I don't care. It is a great genera purpose spray and I really like the way it cleans bolts up.
 

lakota

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One thing to keep in mind is once you break the bolt or nut loose, you still have to unthread it past the exposed rusty threads. We've all seen nuts want to seize when trying to remove them and we've all learned to work the nut back and forth in both directions to help with this. Whether you believe penetrating oil helps with breaking the nut/bolt loose or not, you can't discount it helps work it past the exposed threads by loosing the rust and corrosion.
240_bolt_rust_rusted_273845_m.jpg

800px-rust_bolt.jpg


Usually I'd hit it with a wire wheel but sometimes that isn't possible and that oil sure helps.

Sometimes a deep socket with an extension is your best friend to bend it back and forth till it breaks. Especially on those pesky GM shock shaft nuts.

After I spray with a rust penetrant I would run a RETHREAD DIE over the thread stud. Simply a nut with cutters to clean/restore the thread.
link: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TDD1450M/RETHREAD-DIE-M14X150/
 

lakota

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Kroil can work its way into one millionth of an inch and dissolve rust along the way.

Chris

Sprayed some Kroil on bolts for an exhaust shield on my vehicle, sprayed both sides. Left overnight and removed bolts. I was surprised to see the ends of the bolts rusty and dry. I thought, where is the Kroil creeping action I heard of.
 

jerry67

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My buddy wrote to pb blaster and told them how much he liked their product and how much better it is than WD-40. This is how they replied
 

Shadowdog500

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My buddy wrote to pb blaster and told them how much he liked their product and how much better it is than WD-40. This is how they replied

Anything is better that WD-40!!! Something tells me that PB blaster is going to get a ton of fan mail from Garage Journal members. I better get my fan mail in before everyone else does.

I use Kroil for everything and buy it by the gallon. I just looked and Kroil is now over $100 per gallon. I may get a $25 gallon of PB blaster and save the Kroil for the really bad stuff. Update. I just went to the Kroil website and found that it is still $53 a gallon there. https://websecure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/orders/order.shtml
I'm still going to use Kroil for everything.

Chris
 
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Shadowdog500

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Sprayed some Kroil on bolts for an exhaust shield on my vehicle, sprayed both sides. Left overnight and removed bolts. I was surprised to see the ends of the bolts rusty and dry. I thought, where is the Kroil creeping action I heard of.

Maybe the space was less than one millionth of an inch??? If Kroil won't get it I know the others won't either, unless you want to mix your own 50/50 acetone/ATF Mix. A longer soak, or some heat may be required. Tap the ends of the bolt with a hammer if you can to shock it to possibly make a space for the Kroil to kreep in.

Chris
 

Jon.R

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Working in a fleet garage in northern Ontario we tried all of the above . And wurth rust off was hands down the best .
 

Shadowdog500

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Working in a fleet garage in northern Ontario we tried all of the above . And wurth rust off was hands down the best .

I'm always willing to try something new. Where do you buy it?

All I can find is a distribution center in NJ but no place to actually go buy some. Do they call it rUSt off by you? The only thing I can find is ROst off with an O.

Have you used Rost off with ice?

Thanks,

Chris
 

Shadowdog500

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Blows the doors off any dedicated penetrating spray:

p_102100023_1.jpg

I use that on my guns. Never used it to free rusted nuts and bolts. Since I have a few cans, I'll give it a try on rusted hardware. but to be quite honest am not expecting much.


I was thinking of gun scrub when I mentioned brake cleaner.


Chris
 
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lakota

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I'm always willing to try something new. Where do you buy it?

All I can find is a distribution center in NJ but no place to actually go buy some. Do they call it rUSt off by you? The only thing I can find is ROst off with an O.

Have you used Rost off with ice?

Thanks,

Chris
Did a quick Google search, product of Germany, it must be good.
http://www.autogeek.net/wurooffex.html
 
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