Best Place to buy Mini Split

[priobe]

Thanks for the feedback. My thought is if I install on the outside wall when I raise my car on the lift it might block part of the unit. I’m not sure if that would really matter. I figured if I install in the center and use pvc for drainage with a slight decline it would better and would evenly cool the garage.
I now see the 24k unit is slightly less cost than the 18k.
Should I go for the bigger unit in a 400 sqft. Area

 

[mepstein]

Too big is as bad as too small.

 

[tallfreak]

Too big is as bad as too small.

I'm not so sure thats true on a inverter type mini split. My units can change the speed of the compressor and both fans independently to match the demand. Right now they are barely running. Once they reach target temperature they slow down, so maybe too big is fine. I could be wrong, if so someone correct me.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[dcg9381]

I agree. If you have any question - go ahead and over-size the mini-split. These are not ducted units that are on/off, they can throttle and do a darn good job....

I bought Daikin - they are pre-charged. Mr. Cool has an advantage because they'll warranty a self-install, but they cost more. I would not buy an off-brand mini-split.

 

[dcg9381]

Terry, how big is the area your are cooling. I was thinking of using a 2 ton for 400 sq feet, but maybe 1.5 maybe better sized?

The answer is, it depends.. I installed a 1.5 in 500 sqft and it didn't keep up. Why? No insulation and a floor with a ton of holes in it. It's not just the SQFT that you need to consider, it's insulation and heat exposure.

I have 4 tons in 2400 sqft in Texas and it does just fine in a steel shop with 3.5" of foam and some big doors... When the climate is less "summer" we just run one unit.

 

[priobe]

Thanks I will go with my first instinct 2 ton to be safe

 

[hilld]

Some of us don't have to wait for a10% off coupon, our US Veteran ID is recognized for the discount.

My experience with HD is that you cannot use the veteran discount ordering online (in store only), now with Lowes that is different. Once you are registered as a veteran with them, the discount applies online as well.

The ductless aire units are actually around $50 cheaper at Lowes than at HD and with the online discount that is even a bit sweeter deal. I am about to order the 18k BTU one for my garage.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I inspected them. They look great. I just got my first one installed. Pulled about a 5 minute vacuum just to see it. Its holding. I'll pull it again at least 30 minutes tomorrow while I'm connecting the electrical.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I'll say it again. You CANNOT use vacuum to leak check.

Tommy

 

[dcg9381]

I'll say it again. You CANNOT use vacuum to leak check.

Tommy

He's pretty correct.. It's too hard to measure changes in vacuum that occur with a very slow leak.

 

[C2F]

He's pretty correct.. It's too hard to measure changes in vacuum that occur with a very slow leak.

On the installation manual it advises on how to leak test the system prior to start up. This is not a suggestion it is a requirement for a proper installation.
Dry nitrogen is needed. It will have 3 steps and time to increase pressure and using a leak detection spray. If everything checks, I would perform a proper triple evacuation, pulling the system down to 500 or 250 microns depending on the manufacture instructions. Then if required weigh in refrigerant for additional feet of line set and for evap (if required)

 

[crazybrit]

I just bought one from the pioneer store. Comes pre charged and they sell a $35 kit to do the vacuum. Priced good and 21,5 seer. Free ship.

So is pioneerminisplit.com "the pioneer store".

I'm considering getting a 12,000 btu unit for my 450 sq ft shop.

I was thinking of maybe a Mr. Cool since it would make install easier and it being pre-charged etc.

My understanding is that the Pioneers come pre charged. The distinction is that on the Mr Cool the lines are pre-charged also so you don't need to pull a vacuum thru the lines.

I was considering this: https://www.pioneerminisplit.com/co...-mini-split-air-conditioner-heat-pump-230-vac

I do all my own wiring and I can pull a new 240v or 120v. So I picked the 240v version.

At $758 ($735.26 after a coupon they seem to auto apply) with free shipping it appears significantly cheaper than the Mr Cool.

I talked to pioneerminisplit.com and in the event of a failure during the 6 year warranty period they cover costs of return shipping and that they have parts availability for products over 10 years old at present.

I was very encouraged based on their prompt and detailed answers to my questions.

 

[hilld]

I bought my Bosch unit at Lowes and was able to use the military discount for another 10% off. Even came with a 16' line set. The only thing I needed was a wall mount bracket, the electrical hookup and a line set cover.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-Bosc...cy-8211-16-Ft-Line-Set-ENERGY-STAR/5000040909

 

[LS6 Tommy]

He's pretty correct.. It's too hard to measure changes in vacuum that occur with a very slow leak.

Also because being under a vacuum can and will hold leaks shut. BTDT...

Tommy

 

[hilld]

I always pressure test with Nitrogen. You can get a regulator on Amazon / eBay for around $30-$40 and perhaps rent a nitrogen tank or find a buddy that makes beer and borrow theirs. I bought a tank a long time ago and a fill lasts......well, I have never had to refill my tank, but even then it is $19 to fill it. That is cheap insurance that your flares are good and that you won't have leaks.

I test to 500 psi, so if you are reg shopping, make sure it goes that high or at the very least 400psi.

 

[chrispyny]

I test to 500 psi, so if you are reg shopping, make sure it goes that high or at the very least 400psi.

That’s too high. It has been noted here and on many other forums that the valves wont always hold that much pressure. You risk introducing nitrogen into the condenser. 275-300 is the standard if i remember correctly. I’d personally never test over 300. If it’s gonna hold at 300, it’s gonna hold at 400-425 when the mini-split is being used for heat. Far less pressures when using for a/c in the summer.

I’m not trying to be smart, just saying.

 

[hilld]

That’s too high. It has been noted here and on many other forums that the valves wont always hold that much pressure. You risk introducing nitrogen into the condenser. 275-300 is the standard if i remember correctly. I’d personally never test over 300. If it’s gonna hold at 300, it’s gonna hold at 400-425 when the mini-split is being used for heat. Far less pressures when using for a/c in the summer.

I’m not trying to be smart, just saying.

Thanks for the info. This is what I was taught by an HVAC tech many years ago, but next time around, I will go lower, should make my nitrogen tank last even longer. BONUS.

I don't take it as negative criticism, I take it as a learning opportunity.

Here was the pressure I was seeing on heating when about 40*F ambient.

 

[metlmunchr]

One thing to be aware of on the non-DIY Mr Cool units in the Advantage series is that they only have a one year compressor warranty and 2 years on other parts.

I noticed this when looking at specs on various units for my garage. Had no interest in the DIY series as I have 20 yrs of hvac experience and all the necessary installation and test equipment. But I was really surprised to see someone selling a unit today with a one year compressor warranty when at least 5 years has been standard for 50 years on anything larger than hundred buck box store window units.