Best protectant for tools from rust

[river251]

Hi all, I had bought a set of Dewalt bits, sockets, drills, etc. in one of those yellow plastic Dewalt cases. I kept it in the bag with my drill. It must have gotten wet because everything in the case completely rusted badly. Then they were destroyed in a fire and I'm getting a new one.

I am thinking about spraying my new replacement set with PBS Blaster penetrating oil, WD-40, or just coating them with 3-in-1 oil, mineral oil, or gun oil.

Any thoughts about which of these might be good or bad options? I don't want them sticky to handle and I want it to last a long time so I don't have to constantly reapply, but I could reapply after each use if that is the best way to go.

Thanks
Jim

 

[BarryWells]

Windex. Clean them up and put them in the racks/holders where they live. If they were worth a fzkk from day one they'll live 100 years like that. If your a chimp and throw them in a bucket or ToizRus plastic box..... ATF aint half bad. I goop my **** on my aluminum flip box full of farm tools with it. That and a wipe with some used motor oil......or whatever.
Ever been to a car show and looked at those late fifties/early sixties cars ? The LEAST of their worries are the plating. Keep your main boxes "tool polisher" grade and they stay that way your whole life.The **** under the backhoe step-up.....oh well. They're called consumables. Lost. Stolen. Rusted or weld on a 4 foot pipe for leverage. Likely not a Snap or Proto....

 

[measuredtwice]

Paste wax will last much longer than oil. You are just creating a barrier to the air. If you get them wet, you will need to dry them and reapply the wax.

Bits coated with titanium nitride might be worth considering if rust prevention is of critical importance to you. They are harder and may damage soft fasteners if you cam out... if you cam out with any bit then you may damage the fastener also. I have some from Felo that are completely coated with "TIN".

Lots of folks don't mind rust. The more you use them, the more the rust will be knocked off. Eventually, you'll just have a dark patina.

You could also remove the rust with molasses (slow and cheap) or Evapo-Rust (fast and expensive) or a brass brush (cheap).

 

[OHMS LAW]

If you use them enough they shouldn’t rust

 

[Ww7573]

Fluid Film.

I've been playing with it (only purchased a can 3 weeks ago)
But it never dries, so after you spray it it's wet forever, which... Seems to prevent rust but also makes me not want to touch the tools I've coated unless I'm wearing nitrile gloves. (It seems to be great for moving things like sliding draw bar on a vise)

Is there anything that dries? Would paste wax be better? Or boiled lintseed oil (blo)

 

[Prospecter]

I also use FF. Wipe on, Wipe off. Not necessary to leave any visible residue to work.

 

[measuredtwice]

I've been playing with it (only purchased a can 3 weeks ago)
But it never dries, so after you spray it it's wet forever, which... Seems to prevent rust but also makes me not want to touch the tools I've coated unless I'm wearing nitrile gloves. (It seems to be great for moving things like sliding draw bar on a vise)

Is there anything that dries? Would paste wax be better? Or boiled lintseed oil (blo)

Paste wax dries. For stuff that warrants rust protection (not 10 cent bits), I recommend Renaissance Wax ($15 on Amazon). There are lots of less expensive paste waxes... I've heard some folks use neutral shoe polish containing carnauba wax.

You are just creating a physical barrier so...

oil < wax < paint < plated

 

[sweet victory]

For my Snap On impact sockets and pliers, I've been coating them with CorrosionX. It's been working really well, but wish I could find something that would dry.

 

[ItsNemo]

Another vote for fluid film here...just wipe off the excess.

 

[M6erfan]

Paste wax dries. For stuff that warrants rust protection (not 10 cent bits), I recommend Renaissance Wax ($15 on Amazon). There are lots of less expensive paste waxes... I've heard some folks use neutral shoe polish containing carnauba wax.

You are just creating a physical barrier so...

oil < wax < paint < plated

That Renaissance Wax is great stuff, I've never used it on my tools though.

 

[TXpintail]

CorrosionX. It works on tools used frequently in Texas/Louisiana saltwater marsh (oil/gas infrastructure).

 

[tclark]

I prefer this over FF:
https://boeshield.com/

 

[davethorik]

One of the Mobil Mobilarma line. It was sprayed out of a bottle and would turn into a waxy paste when left to set-up. It is pricy.

 

[Y00PER]

PB lasts longer than WD, for me anyway. I recently started using mineral oil. I will see how that does in this last few weeks of summer

 

[river251]

I prefer this over FF:


What is it like?

 

[river251]

Thanks for all the great suggestions, lots of good things to try. I have lots of tools so I can try more than one at a time...

 

[Indexmill]

PB Blaster f*cking stinks though.

The real question is Why are your tools rusting. Especially in NM. If your tool storage location is not wet or damp or really humid, you should not have a problem. Heat and AC are also good to prevent rust; but very costly.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I like Napa chain and cable lube. It foams and sinks into cracks, eventually leaves a thin film like cosmoline. For stuff that's going to get wet with salt water and be neglected, it's hard to beat.

 

[Jazz1]

Must be climate, my tools don’t rust and many (SAE) are rarely used

 

[tclark]

I prefer this over FF:


What is it like?

Goes on kinda like any multi-function lube, but leaves a light, dry, waxy coating. It's pricy, but seems to leave a "cleaner" finish to me.

 

[tclark]

Must be climate, my tools don’t rust and many (SAE) are rarely used

There's so much humidity stuff can rust overnight if not protected around here.

 

[CR888]

Any Lanolin based spray will stand the test of time better than others. I use Lanox made by the same company that sell Inox.

 

[twertsy]

I second the Boelube suggestion. I cannot handle the stench of FF. For BOTH, you're supposed to let them set for a minute or two and then wipe the excess off.

 

[BlackLS2]

Camellia Oil is an old Japanese solution, mainly for woodworking tools since it won't stain wood. Does an excellent job as a light duty coating for mechanics tools. I have used it on a few tool rust resurrections.

Someone mentioned Boeshield T9 which is great for high dollar tools.

 

[Ww7573]

I also use FF. Wipe on, Wipe off. Not necessary to leave any visible residue to work.

You're supposed to wipe it off!?

That changes everything!

I clearly missed that step when reading the instructions.

 

[measuredtwice]

I prefer this over FF:
https://boeshield.com/

I also have boeshield but I haven't used it much.

That Renaissance Wax is great stuff, I've never used it on my tools though.

In the last 10 or so years it's become popular for woodworking tools.

 

[Guam_Guy]

Good ole 23699! Always seem to get it all over my tools!

 

[sparky 1971]

I will sometimes wipe tools down with 50-50 mix of WD40 and Marvel Mystery Oil. I keep it in a spray bottle and squirt some on a rag. I have no idea if it gives extra rust protection of not, but it makes me feel better. It also makes a fairly good penatrating oil.