Best Rust Control Paint for Axle, etc

[Matt M PA]

Hi guys....I want to clean up and paint the axles, sway bars, etc on my Excursion. The rest of the truck is so clean that I want to protect/improve the underneath.

I got a flyer for KBS Coatings. Seems to be very similar to POR. I read both good and bad reviews. What I don't understand about these things is why they make all the different colors...that have to be topcoated for UV.

KBS makes some kits that have a cleaner, rust converter and paint. (The paint then needs to be topcoated to be UV resistant) Really? 4 steps?

A friend just did a similar task on a Dodge RAM with a spray can paint from the local store.

I need black, and I'd much prefer to brush it on as I'll do this over the winter inside. The parts aren't scaly, but do have some surface rust.

Anyone have a recommendation?

 

[velillen01]

Ive heard nothing but good things on POR. Just need to do good prep work on it. That plus getting an undercoat or using something like fluid film seems to work great for a lot of people.

I dont live the rust belt or a place where we salt the roads so i have been happy with Rustoleum Rust Reformer spray paint. Its durable and works well. If i was where they salt the roads though i would do a good coat of POR (or similar) plus an undercoating and then touch up with the rustoleum when needed

 

[1953mercury]

For chassis paint I use a semi gloss black from Caterpillar with their primer and reducer. Pretty tough and reasonably priced. Mike

 

[AldeanFan]

I use rustoleum semigloss black for my cars. Cheap, easy to apply, easy to touch up and very forgiving for prep work.
POR requires very good prep work, which is difficult on parts still on the car, and it's difficult to touch up.

 

[manwithtools]

SPI Epoxy Primer if it wont be exposed to UV light. Chassis Saver is another option, just about like POR 15.

 

[DC73]

Check out Rust Bullet. You can read about the version for concrete in the Flooring forum. The original formula is an industrial metal coating. Justin at GarageFlooring may have some insight and may also be able to sell you what you need. Here is his contact info on the forum: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/member.php?u=82828

DC

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I redid the axles on an 85 4Runner several years ago and painted them with POR15. It's tough as nails but as others have said the prep has to be done right. Prep was a bit easier as I had the axles off the vehicle.

It has held up extremely well.

 

[Matt M PA]

Thanks guys...on axles, etc...does the need to topcoat with something UV resistant still apply?

 

[CJM8515]

I use rustoleum semigloss black for my cars. Cheap, easy to apply, easy to touch up and very forgiving for prep work.
POR requires very good prep work, which is difficult on parts still on the car, and it's difficult to touch up.

I agree totally. POR is good, but it requires good clean metal to work with. It also needs to be top coated to last.

Rustoleum rust converter and rustoleum pro (drys quicker) is all I use. Works well.

 

[Cyberbear]

Another option is the General Electric Glyptal 1201 paint. I looked it up on the Net and it has great rust prevention capabilities, can be applied by brush and is extremely durable.
We used it many years ago as an insulating varnish/enamel and it's really tough and long lasting. I believe it is available in black as well as red.

 

[four.cycle]

my method:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5322644&highlight=throw-away#post5322644

Washington State = no salt on roads!

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I must be the only person that had bad luck with POR. Tried it on a mower deck and a trailer. Neither held up any better than rattle can paint and rattle can was much easier to touch up.

 

[finn]

Port is pealing off my Chevy plow truck frame after 2 years.

Sandblasted the frame prior to coating, too.

 

[Rlfd213]

I use master series and it's like a epoxy primer and then you can either use their chassis paint or whatever urethane paint you choose. I like it a lot better then POR.

 

[TNToy]

I go cheap and use tractor / implement gloss black from Tractor Supply. Reduce it and spray it, or brush or roll it on.

I did a small trailer three years ago with it that still looks perfect despite sitting in the sun every day in the back yard. I'm a big fan, and it gets used on axles and chassis when needed, now days.

 

[soapii]

I have been very happy with Chassis Saver...

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

--Joe

 

[bwitt]

Whatever you use, stay away from the Eastwood Rust Converter and Encapsulator. They just don't work no matter how much prep you do.

 

[dwysywd]

I have been very happy with Chassis Saver...



http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp



--Joe

Diddo that! Love that stuff. Getting ready to do current truck.

The silver flake is really nice too.


Sent from my bag phone...

 

[firworks]

For chassis paint I use a semi gloss black from Caterpillar with their primer and reducer. Pretty tough and reasonably priced. Mike

"If it's good enough for a D11 it's good enough for my 86' Cutlass."

 

[wasfuzz]

I go cheap and use tractor / implement gloss black from Tractor Supply. Reduce it and spray it, or brush or roll it on.

I did a small trailer three years ago with it that still looks perfect despite sitting in the sun every day in the back yard. I'm a big fan, and it gets used on axles and chassis when needed, now days.

+1

 

[BluByU]

Similar to others, have had good results with John Deere implement paint. Can be thinned for spraying or brush it on.

 

[djjsr]

I've been using Por-15 but unlike previous comments, I don't do a lot of prep work. Just hit the rust with a wire brush and blow it off with an air hose. It seems to be holding up pretty well, even without a top coat.

 

[AldeanFan]

You can definitely do too much prep for por. A friend of mine used it on a frame right after sandblasting and we peeled it all off with the air hose. I used it on a rusty rearend after a good pressure washing and it held up well, just wasn't worth the cost and effort over using regular paint.

 

[zmotorsports]

I have done quite a few Jeep axles, sleeving and gusseting as well as gearing changes, and afterwards I do a quick prep and brush on some POR-15. Seems to work very well and holds up pretty well here in the crappy winter roads of Northern Utah.

My 2011 was done back in December of 2011 and now after 56k miles looks like I may want to hit it again this spring. Rocks and chips have taken their toll on it it but not bad for over 50k miles of driving and being towed another 15k-ish behind our coach.

Mike.

 

[langss]

I have used this and had excellent results http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...-interior-trim/permatex-rust-treatment-detail I used the spray (81849) as it was the easiest to apply. If you have clean rust free metal it still works but I think it works best with a good wire brushing and Acetone wipe down.

 

[Pwaley]

Epoxy baby!

 

[Angelfire]

I must be the only person that had bad luck with POR. Tried it on a mower deck and a trailer. Neither held up any better than rattle can paint and rattle can was much easier to touch up.

Nope. I too had a very poor experience with it. Prepped bare metal per their instructions (used their metal prep liquid) and sprayed it on. Looked great. Several days later I went to install the parts and the **** peeled off in sheets. Calls to them yielded no help as to what went wrong but after researching a bit, it appears to be hit or miss. A few of the 4 wheeler boards I'm on show about 50% that love the stuff and the rest hate it. I haven't tried it yet but for future works, id probably look into something like rust bullet or the like.

 

[dwysywd]

Imho, chassis saver is better than POR15 and had very good results. I've used both. Don't care for por15. I mentioned CS earlier, but felt worth mentioning the POr.

 

[Matt M PA]

Thanks guys....all great info!

A friend who is the lighting business suggested Rustoleum Rust Reformer. They use it on fixtures they restore in areas that aren't accessible.

I'm gonna look into all these and make a decision...thanks again!

 

[dwysywd]

I've used the rustoleum as well. It's good stuff. If it's the one I'm thinking of, Goes on a lot thicker than the Chassis saver. I think it's about half the cost. They have pros and cons. I'd say the CS will last longer, but requires some touch up. The Rustoleum is one and done, but won't last as long. Just my opinion.

 

[Jay H 237]

Port is pealing off my Chevy plow truck frame after 2 years.

Sandblasted the frame prior to coating, too.

POR needs rust to adhere, anything to bare steel and it won't stick at all.

 

[dwysywd]

I asked my buddy who swears by POR. He said if you sand blast, there is an etch product you have to use. Jay H is correct. If you don't have rust the metal has to be prepped. Apparently the sand blaster metal has too much sheen and it won't stick. I just pressure wash my items I use a hot water pressure washer and simple green.


Sent from my bag phone...

 

[CJM8515]

I used the rustoleum rust reformer with GREAT results a few times. Years ago I needed a rear axle for my truck and since it wasnt a very common model I could only find one. Shipped to the shop it looked like it was a rusty pos. I wire wheeled it, rust reformer and then used the rustoleum industrial spray paint and the axle was nice for years. I also used it on my truck frame with good results!

 

[Matt M PA]

Thanks guys....all great advice. Since I could but it locally, I got a small bottle of the Rust Reformer. I think I'm also going to spray once the rusty areas are addressed. So, it'll probably wait until spring so I can spray outside.

So, in the meantime I may pull stuff like the shocks, etc and blast those for paint.

 

[99LeCouch]

Don't forget about stuff like Fluid Film to keep the salt at bay over the winter. If the part is restored with rust converter/paint and then protected annually with Fluid Film or a similar coating, it should last darned near forever. The FF does make the underside an oily mess. However, it's a lot easier to clean up than fighting rust that could have been minimized in the first place.

 

[kool55]

I asked my buddy who swears by POR. He said if you sand blast, there is an etch product you have to use. Jay H is correct. If you don't have rust the metal has to be prepped. Apparently the sand blaster metal has too much sheen and it won't stick. I just pressure wash my items I use a hot water pressure washer and simple green.


Sent from my bag phone...

I don't think you can get a better prep surface than what sand blasting does. The sand etches the surface really well. You need to wash the sand dust off before painting.
In 2003 I blasted and brush painted my 72 Vette frame with POR 15. It flowed out perfectly like as if I sprayed it. Looks as good today and did not topcoat it since its not in direct sunlight .

 

[ZRX61]

I'd just shoot it with rattlecans of hammertone black.

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

For rattlecans, the best paint I know of is Cummins "Bracket Black"... It's not much more than the average rattle can but there is almost double the paint in the can and it holds up incredibly well against chips and scratches.

I used it on my pick up rack and it has now weathered and gone dull but that was painted in 2011. Hitch and underside components I used it on still look new.


I'd assume the other colors would be the same paint but I don't know that for a fact.

 

[Matt M PA]

Well guys..I worked on it over the weekend.

I used the Rustoleum Rust Reformer and a cheap HF brush. I first wiped it all down with some brake cleaner or grease and wax remover. There was really no loose scaling, so I brushed it on. In about 30 minutes, I went over the spots again.

It didn't turn as black as I thought it would in some spots, but everything appears well sealed. My friend who recommended the stuff stopped last night and though it looked "right".

Once it gets a bit warmer, I'll pull the truck outside and spray it all with a good black spray paint.

I've already pulled two shocks, mounting brackets, etc to glass bead and paint. Working my way around the truck. These parts came out great. (Now, the OCD in me made me put back the paint markings I found on the shocks.)

I'll keep you guys in the loop as this progresses. So far...seems good.

 

[razrbak94]

Another vote for POR-15.