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Best Rust Remover?

Rob07002

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
24
Location
New Jersey
I've done a search on the internet, but came up with the phone book all claiming their product is the "BEST". Anyone have practical experience with a rust removal product. I need to spuce up a Ford 9" and its pretty ugly so I need something HEAVY DUTY!!!
 
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eschoendorff

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
8,991
Location
Michigan
A wire brush. Knotted if you need heavy duty. Sears has some on clearance depending on the store. Just my .02...
 

Kuhlryde

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
103
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Why dont you ask the guys on Pro-Touring.com? LOL I thought I recognized that handle.

What I have done is this:

SATURATE a rag in Aircraft Paint remover. Place the rag on the part of the car and leave it there for about 30 minutes. Saturate another rag and put it on another part. Take the first rag off, spray it down with water to neutralize it the remover. Use some stuff you can get at Advanced Auto called 'Right Stuff'. You pour/spray it on bare metal. It is suppsoed to be a rust converter (but all those chemicals like POR and so called rust-converters dont really work well.) The point, I guess, is that it has a zinc base to it that actually works as a really good temporary metal protector. I put it on bare metal to keep surface rust from appearing. I have a car in it now. It has been for about 3 months and so far so good. Plus if you sand it down before you wanna paint, apply another coat and let it sit for a few hours, you get a nice ruff base you can apply primer too :)

EDIT: Sorry, I just reread your post. You dont want body work. I would take it to a sand blaster. My sand blaster in Columbus Ohio is going to do my 79 TA Subframe for 100 bucks. Might be worth it for you to do this.
 
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Rob07002

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
24
Location
New Jersey
Kuhlryde said:
Why dont you ask the guys on Pro-Touring.com? LOL I thought I recognized that handle.

What I have done is this:

SATURATE a rag in Aircraft Paint remover. Place the rag on the part of the car and leave it there for about 30 minutes. Saturate another rag and put it on another part. Take the first rag off, spray it down with water to neutralize it the remover. Use some stuff you can get at Advanced Auto called 'Right Stuff'. You pour/spray it on bare metal. It is suppsoed to be a rust converter (but all those chemicals like POR and so called rust-converters dont really work well.) The point, I guess, is that it has a zinc base to it that actually works as a really good temporary metal protector. I put it on bare metal to keep surface rust from appearing. I have a car in it now. It has been for about 3 months and so far so good. Plus if you sand it down before you wanna paint, apply another coat and let it sit for a few hours, you get a nice ruff base you can apply primer too :)

EDIT: Sorry, I just reread your post. You dont want body work. I would take it to a sand blaster. My sand blaster in Columbus Ohio is going to do my 79 TA Subframe for 100 bucks. Might be worth it for you to do this.

Yeah Small world... LOL

Sandblasting would be a last resort since I don't know of one around me, and the thone I do know of is soo busy it would be awile. I already had the rear hot tanked but that didn't do much.... I figured a good rust remover with a wire wheel hooked to my grinder, then some por15 or the like would be the trick...
 

OHEKK

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
79
Location
Wisconsin
I found some stuff at Ace Hardware called "Must for Rust"

It's the best I've found.
 

BOSS351C

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2005
Messages
46
Location
Midland, MI
I've had good luck with Concrete Etcher. It is basically Phosphuric acid. Eats the rust away and leaves a cool gold tone on the steel that doesn't rust. The key is to keep the part "wet" with the acid for as long as possible, then rinse it off with clean water, dry, prime, paint. I did this with a cast iron bellhousing and it only took 30 minutes to eat the light rust off completely. I use the Behr stuff from home depot that comes in a gallon jug, then put it in a plastic spray bottle.
 

Fuzzydog

Active member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
39
Location
British Columbia
Anyone have experience (good or bad) with the rust remover they sell at Cambodian Tire? I can't recall the name but it is some sort of amber liquid and claims all this environmentally friendly stuff, non- petro based, no harsh chemicals, etc.
 

Rickster

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
6,218
Location
SE PA
I'm using an angle grinder with these plastic-coated wire mesh wheels. It works really well on rust and on undercoating/heavy paint. The wire mesh will break down during use, avoiding any gumming up like on a regular wire wheel. I got them at a car show-swap meet. Seen 3M ones at Home Depot but theirs are set up for mounting in a drill.
 

Fuzzydog

Active member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
39
Location
British Columbia
Fuzzydog said:
Anyone have experience (good or bad) with the rust remover they sell at Cambodian Tire? I can't recall the name but it is some sort of amber liquid and claims all this environmentally friendly stuff, non- petro based, no harsh chemicals, etc.

answering my own question - I picked some up the other day and this stuff is GOOD!
no bad odors, no toxicity and rinses right off. I had some misc bolts, nut drivers, etc that were pretty badly rusted up and soaked them for about a day. The amber liquid turns blackish as the rust is converted somehow and taken off of the parts. I highly recommend this. You need to have time though because it does take a while to work
 

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Elky

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Joined
Jan 16, 2005
Messages
131
Location
Lowell, MA
i was going to recomend Evapo-Rust, too.

i bought a gallon about 4 years ago at a swap meet. the lady who was selling it was teh inventor of it and she started off bottling it right near where i lived.
the stuff is friggin amazing!!!

i did my rotors in it one year, they came out looking brand new!
even when the stuff is black, you can still use it on other stuff, it will eventually lose its potency though.
and it smells real bad.
but it is non-hazardous and she originaly told me that the stuff is even safe enough to be poured down the drain.
 

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
Rob07002 said:
Yeah Small world... LOL

Sandblasting would be a last resort since I don't know of one around me, and the thone I do know of is soo busy it would be awile. I already had the rear hot tanked but that didn't do much.... I figured a good rust remover with a wire wheel hooked to my grinder, then some por15 or the like would be the trick...
POR-15 is a good choice
 

trovato

Well-known member
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
415
Location
Putnam Valley, New York
I assumed Cambodian Tire is a disparaging reference to Canadian Tire, which is a chain of stores in Canada. Kind of like how we refer to Home Cheapo or Home Despot.
 

Fuzzydog

Active member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
39
Location
British Columbia
Yes, Cambodian Tire is what we 'affectionately' call Canadian Tire. It's not really that disparaging when you consider that 99% of the stuff in there is of asian origin... :)

Anyway, I finally got the after pics of being in the evapo rust. I'll post both before and after for side by side comparison. The bits were taken out of the dip after about 24 hrs.
 

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NHRADRAGRACER

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Messages
7
Location
NJ
Rob07002 said:
Figured I'd give this stuff a shot, ordered it yesterday... I'll post the results..

Thanks for all the suggestions!


Any results yet?

Would love to here any feedback on the Ultra One degreaser also, it is great for cleaning just about anything (see trailer photo)
TrailerwithwheelsAfterHD001shrunkmed.jpg


but also works well on any residue left after derusting.

C-Clamphalfdone4hrs.jpg
 

ephotrod

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
1,162
Location
Texas
I didn't read all post so if this is a repeat i'm sorry. On the Power Block they showed a method that used a 12 volt 2 amp dc power source (like a battery charger), a bucket filled with water, and soda ash (i believe correct me if i'm wrong). They put the part in the bucket (that has water and soda ash mixed) with the positive clamp attached to the part and then placed the negative on some scrap metal and placed it in the bucket and just let it sit. It took the rust off without taking any metal off. Once again i'm not sure of the exact steps and the exact placement of things so please do some research.
Josh
 

george4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2006
Messages
773
Location
N California
ephotrod said:
I didn't read all post so if this is a repeat i'm sorry. On the Power Block they showed a method that used a 12 volt 2 amp dc power source (like a battery charger), a bucket filled with water, and soda ash (i believe correct me if i'm wrong). They put the part in the bucket (that has water and soda ash mixed) with the positive clamp attached to the part and then placed the negative on some scrap metal and placed it in the bucket and just let it sit. It took the rust off without taking any metal off. Once again i'm not sure of the exact steps and the exact placement of things so please do some research.
Josh
I think this is what you are referring to and it does work well. http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm
 

Uncle Buck

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Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
Rob07002 said:
I've done a search on the internet, but came up with the phone book all claiming their product is the "BEST". Anyone have practical experience with a rust removal product. I need to spuce up a Ford 9" and its pretty ugly so I need something HEAVY DUTY!!!

Handsdown, sandblasting is the only way to go with something like this!
 
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