Best Sander For The Job?

[Ben LeBlanc]

I don't have the money for media blasting, so I am looking at alternatives. (Dummy before me sandblasted that small section and primed over it)

I like using phosphoric acid on rust, but sometimes it doesn't work that fast or great (leaves rust encapsulated). So what I do is spray it on, and scotch brite over the acid while it is working.

I hear that I can take scotch brite and cut it into a circle and it sticks enough to the hook and loop system. Cool.

So, I also don't run enough air for the job, so I am going electric. I have heard great things about the dewalt orbital, so here it is...
DEWALT D26453K 3 Amp 5-Inch Variable Speed Random Orbit Sander Kit with Cloth Dust Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007XXHGY/?tag=atomicindus08-20
And I was perusing my local Sears while getting a warrantee on a tool, and saw this cool thing:
DEWALT DWE6401DS 5-Inch VS Disc Sander with Dust Shroud https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KZB2GE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It seems to just be a model with one more amp. Also has the trigger grip tho, which I like. However, it is classified as a disc sander while the other is an orbital and is more like the good old dual action.

Anyone have any experience? Will scotch brite stick? Any better ideas? Thanks!


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[Rileysan]

Gunna follow this thread ... I have a similar project to do.

Brian

 

[jallyn]

Orbital is better. It is a more random motion pattern leaving more uniform surface finish. A disk sander is for major removal of material and will chew through your old car parts.

 

[Monte]

a 6" sander will remove the material faster:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000VUN7Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

a "forced orbital" sander is even better:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001408SO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Provincial]

"Scotch Brite" will not remove rust that is below the surface of the metal, except for what iis dislodged by the abrasive action above the surface. That said, it gets rid of most of the rust, and is a good first stage in rust removal.

If you attack the rust in a multi-stage process, consider using a 4-1/2" or larger grinder with a "Scotch Brite" abrasive disc that threads on the 5/8" spindle. These discs are somewhat expensive, but aggressively remove rust without taking off the base metal. Use them on the flatter areas and use a softer pad with your hook-and-loop to better follow the contours of the more complex surfaces. Keep moving over the surface to avoid heating (and warping) one area.

A wire cup brush on the angle grinder can get into a pretty deep crevice if you attack it from the right angle.

As a general rule, don't expect to do the job with one process. Attack the job in several ways, using different tools and approaches.

 

[Ben LeBlanc]

"Scotch Brite" will not remove rust that is below the surface of the metal, except for what iis dislodged by the abrasive action above the surface. That said, it gets rid of most of the rust, and is a good first stage in rust removal.

If you attack the rust in a multi-stage process, consider using a 4-1/2" or larger grinder with a "Scotch Brite" abrasive disc that threads on the 5/8" spindle. These discs are somewhat expensive, but aggressively remove rust without taking off the base metal. Use them on the flatter areas and use a softer pad with your hook-and-loop to better follow the contours of the more complex surfaces. Keep moving over the surface to avoid heating (and warping) one area.

A wire cup brush on the angle grinder can get into a pretty deep crevice if you attack it from the right angle.

As a general rule, don't expect to do the job with one process. Attack the job in several ways, using different tools and approaches.

Very true on the last part; I hope the phosphoric acid will help me out though.

I have been using the crimped wire wheels on the angle grinder but they ****. I must have bought 6 so far (different projects) and they explode into a jacket, and cost 15 bucks a piece!!! They work, but I am trying to find a better way.

And though good ideas above with the Bosch tools; sadly I am looking for a wee bit cheaper route...


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[gungatim]

5 or 6" da on the flat panels but those window frames will be more difficult. I'd probably use an angle die grinder with roloc discs, but by the time you buy a good electric sander and everything else (sandpaper and discs add up quick), you'd be money ahead to just go get it blasted. around here it's $45-$60 an hour to take it in to a do it yourself place and blast it depending on what media you choose. I did an entire motorcycle, frame, sheetmetal and all, plus a pair of ford tractor fenders and braces in an hour flat...best $60 I ever spent, and I own a blast cabinet and a pressure sand blaster at home...

 

[Gotcha640]

Have you checked out the media blast prices? We had some bronco parts blasted and primed, doors, hood, some supports. Total was about $200 IIRC, worth every dime.

Also, are you just cleaning up the doors, end of project? I can't come up with a scenario that doesn't attach to a $$$$ project, unless they're just decorations. If you're restoring a whole car, a few hundred for blasting is a drop in a bucket.

 

[creativecars]

As far as a sander I picked up the 6" polisher.. DA Sander from Harbor Freight to use when I don't want to drag around an air hose. It plugs into the wall and even is variable speed. I have had mine of over a year and used it with everything from 36 to 320 grit and it some scotchrite. I recently reworked an old trailer and used corroseal, looks good now, but will have to wait on the long term durability.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RYRJGXO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Ben LeBlanc]

Cool. I guess I will at least look around for prices on sand blasting, but I am 20 and am doing this on a strict and low budget... So that is why I ask. Better to do it right, but is also nice to have a tool at the end of the money instead of money that is gone.

Good stuff creativecars. Will consider.




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[Strouty]

I think soda blasting would be safer for the sheet metal.

 

[countryroad82]

I vote orbital.

 

[stevenhs]

sand blast it

 

[espyking83]

FTR, red scotch brites do a great job, but you are gonna need to knock the **** out of the rust before you do that. We use that scotch brite method before we acid etc h and alodine, just make sure you clean with a fast evaporating cleaner (acetone/toluene/alcohol)before sealing. That looks like a very important project, so I'd take it down to bare metal with 220, then 320, clean-scuff-clean. Seal it before primer.

 

[espyking83]

Also, I'd hose it down with laquer thinner and a scotch brite before worrying about anything. If you have a die grinder it would be good to get a scotch wheel for all the nooks. Think twice before you sand blast. That metal doesnt look to be in that bad of shape, no exfoliation from the looks of it, just surface. Cleaning will take off more of it than you think. Sand blasting requires more cleaning to check flash rust-a lot more. I learned that the hard way.


Eastwood makes some decent enough da sanders for the money, if car projects are something you do frequently or plan on getting into, i'd recommend a pistol/palm. They're small so they take a bit longer and the stickies are a tad more expensive(you can always buy squAre stickies and trim), but the finished product is much better, and the nooks are what kills you.

 

[espyking83]

Geeesh. Just noticed the holes in the fender. Focus on that and build that up before paint.

 

[rsanter]

I see a couple of problems.
First is you likly already have thin metal in many places. Sanding will tend to make even the good stuff thinner.
Second, you have lots or recesses and groves to deal with that will be a pain and you will tend to hit some of those areas harder which could heat up and thin the metal.
Third, you have rust on the inside the will continue unless you remove that too and that will be even harder.

What I see is a kids swimming pool and an electrolysis setup in your future.
The whole thing does not need to go in at once. You can put it in and you can, run it for a while and the shift it around.
I saw pics where someone electrolysis rust removal on the whole cab of a truck with a kids swimming pool. He just kept flipping it around doing one section at a time

Bob

 

[ZRX61]

First thing I'd do is get a quote from an outfit that does chemical stripping. That would save a lot of ******* about.

 

[ZRX61]

Prices here:
http://www.metaldipping.com/faq.php

 

[Gotcha640]

I still want to know if these are going back on a car or hanging on a wall or what.

 

[Ben LeBlanc]

I still want to know if these are going back on a car or hanging on a wall or what.

It is going on the car; because well, it is the car!

Good thing is that I disassembled everything into 2d, so dipping is not required to get every crevice. That dipping would be good on a high money build.

Good thoughts everyone, will look into the blasting options and report back; was just worried with going to the wrong place and not having a car anymore!


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[jeff_gates]

Talk to auto body shops in your area, I have a local blaster and powder coater that I use, he did two fenders and put a primer power coat for $200.

--Jeff