best sealant. not epoxy
- Thread starter parish8
- Start date
vvk645
Well-known member
I don't have any suggestions and I'm on the same quest except my slab was poured about a month ago.
WolverineCoatings
Well-known member
Here are a few choices for what you want:
1) (Lowest Cost) Thermoplastic Acrylic Sealer (like our AcryliSeal 3401) - This is the typical cheap solvent based acrylic sealer that most people will use to get the dark wet look on concrete. I've never recommended this type of product on a garage floor as it will readily dissolve with almost any type of solvent.
2) (Little More Expensive) Waterbased Acrylic- This would be a standard water based acrylic sealer. This would give about the same performance as the solvent based sealer except that it won't darken as much. Many of these products also have a lower water resistance (which means you wouldn't want water to pond on it for long).
3) (More Expensive) - Nanopolymer Acrylic Sealer - Wolverine Coatings was the first company in the world to commercialize this new type of Acrylic technology. To date we are still not aware of any other company that offers this type of new novel technology. It is slightly more expensive than the standard waterbased products but give a HUGE performance increase. This product will give better darkening than the standard water based acrylic sealers but not quite as much darkening as the solvent based. The chemical resistance is awesome... much better than either the waterbased or solvent based acrylic and is even resistant to chemicals including organic solvents like MEK, Xylene, Toluene, etc. You care about this because you are going to spill things like gasoline which is similar. This product is less than 3 years old and we have not heard of a failure to date. So, the durability is much better than either of the typical solvent based or water based acrylics.
(More Expensive) 100% Solids Epoxy - Our BondTite 1101 primer is used many times to seal a floor and give the dark wet look. This is typically done in 2 coats. Two component epoxies are extremely durable and are generally known to have the best adhesion. The BondTite 1101 is an AHC (Advanced Hybrid Cycloaliphatic) that has been Flurochemically modified. The modification give a tough coating that remains flexible to expand and contract with the daily movement of concrete.
(Most Expensive) 100% Solids + Urethane - This would simply be 1 coat of BondTite 1101 (already mentioned) and one coat of EnduraShield 2254 urethane. The 2254 is an extremely hard polymer that is glass clear. It is a 90% solids urethane with extreme durability. I could have also recommended a Polyaspartic here but I don't recommend them for DIY applications. For a longer lasting floor you can add an addition coat of urethane.
1) (Lowest Cost) Thermoplastic Acrylic Sealer (like our AcryliSeal 3401) - This is the typical cheap solvent based acrylic sealer that most people will use to get the dark wet look on concrete. I've never recommended this type of product on a garage floor as it will readily dissolve with almost any type of solvent.
2) (Little More Expensive) Waterbased Acrylic- This would be a standard water based acrylic sealer. This would give about the same performance as the solvent based sealer except that it won't darken as much. Many of these products also have a lower water resistance (which means you wouldn't want water to pond on it for long).
3) (More Expensive) - Nanopolymer Acrylic Sealer - Wolverine Coatings was the first company in the world to commercialize this new type of Acrylic technology. To date we are still not aware of any other company that offers this type of new novel technology. It is slightly more expensive than the standard waterbased products but give a HUGE performance increase. This product will give better darkening than the standard water based acrylic sealers but not quite as much darkening as the solvent based. The chemical resistance is awesome... much better than either the waterbased or solvent based acrylic and is even resistant to chemicals including organic solvents like MEK, Xylene, Toluene, etc. You care about this because you are going to spill things like gasoline which is similar. This product is less than 3 years old and we have not heard of a failure to date. So, the durability is much better than either of the typical solvent based or water based acrylics.
(More Expensive) 100% Solids Epoxy - Our BondTite 1101 primer is used many times to seal a floor and give the dark wet look. This is typically done in 2 coats. Two component epoxies are extremely durable and are generally known to have the best adhesion. The BondTite 1101 is an AHC (Advanced Hybrid Cycloaliphatic) that has been Flurochemically modified. The modification give a tough coating that remains flexible to expand and contract with the daily movement of concrete.
(Most Expensive) 100% Solids + Urethane - This would simply be 1 coat of BondTite 1101 (already mentioned) and one coat of EnduraShield 2254 urethane. The 2254 is an extremely hard polymer that is glass clear. It is a 90% solids urethane with extreme durability. I could have also recommended a Polyaspartic here but I don't recommend them for DIY applications. For a longer lasting floor you can add an addition coat of urethane.
Walter
Active member
My interpretation of what you are asking for (based on the title of the thread)is a type of concrete sealer or a densifier and NOT an epoxy. I'd love to put down a $2500 epoxy floor COATING down on my 2000 sq/ft floor BUT I cannot justify the costs. I kept asking myself what is it I want the garage to be. I'm resolve on keeping it a garage. A good (big), functional garage and I am going to spend the money I could have spent on an epoxy floor on a new compressor and/or a drill press. As a result I've been digging around and found a few products that would eliminate the concrete dust (I've read the dust is from the salts) and also resist stains. I do not know which is the best but I pretty much narrowed it down to one of the densifiers. I found a site that gave a pretty good breakdown of some of the Cures and Sealers and the table includes densifiers. There is one other sealer that I found that is not on the list and that is Ashford Formula. It was mentioned on one of the threads here on TGJ. I've read that this one has been around a long time (50 years or more). I'm not so sure I want to go with it as it is less modern and I can't find any discussions on it or recommendations. I'm thinking of going with the Euclid Diamond Hard at this time.
Here is the link to the table of products I mentioned.
http://www.chasephipps.com/Est Charts/Cure Seal/Cure Seal.htm
Check this out and tell us what you think.
Here is the link to the table of products I mentioned.
http://www.chasephipps.com/Est Charts/Cure Seal/Cure Seal.htm
Check this out and tell us what you think.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Let me put a few cash numbers to the to the sealer...
For the non-epoxy sealers Wolverine Coatings does offer AcryliSeal 3401, but frankly AcryliSeal 3501 offers so much more performance for just a slightly higher price, that it makes little sense to go with any other sealer. AcryliSeal 3501 is $178 for a 5 gallon kit. That will coat 1,500 ft2 with one coat, or ft2 with 2 coats. Actually you can coat a bit more than that if you like the glossy wet look, since to get that you add water to the first coat.
Application is a snap and can usually be completed in a day - a short one at that.
For the non-epoxy sealers Wolverine Coatings does offer AcryliSeal 3401, but frankly AcryliSeal 3501 offers so much more performance for just a slightly higher price, that it makes little sense to go with any other sealer. AcryliSeal 3501 is $178 for a 5 gallon kit. That will coat 1,500 ft2 with one coat, or ft2 with 2 coats. Actually you can coat a bit more than that if you like the glossy wet look, since to get that you add water to the first coat.
Application is a snap and can usually be completed in a day - a short one at that.
Like Walter, I can't justify the cost of epoxy project for my 720 sq ft garage. It's 50-years old, untreated, with a few deep oil stains. I will clean/degrease/scrub it best I can, then apply coating(s). Willing to work for a couple days on this. How much more effort is it to apply one of the AcryliSeal products vs a good floor paint? I'm willing to pay a bit more for a coating that's tough and skid-resistant. -Thanks in advance! Scott
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Sott -
You'll want to clean up the oil and grease spills as best possible since the sealer will need to penetrate the substrate in order to seal it. Then pressure wash, try a 2,400 psi min washer, and roll on the coating. It should dry in a few hours, put down the second coat and broadcast the anti-slip agent, let dry, enjoy.
You'll want to clean up the oil and grease spills as best possible since the sealer will need to penetrate the substrate in order to seal it. Then pressure wash, try a 2,400 psi min washer, and roll on the coating. It should dry in a few hours, put down the second coat and broadcast the anti-slip agent, let dry, enjoy.
AG,
Thanks for the tips (and words of encouragement). Would a power washer clean deeper than detergent & a stiff bristle brush? My local rental shop has Edgco grinders & Home Depot might have a shotblaster. Compared to power washing, grinding is probably harder work, and a bit more time consuming (hopefully not more than a few hours), but would that produce best results? If I grinded or blasted, would I skip the power wash? Last question (for now), AG: which would provide a longer-lasting, anti-skid surface: a 2-part epoxy or one of the higher tech sealers?
Many, many thanks! This forum is good!
Scott
Thanks for the tips (and words of encouragement). Would a power washer clean deeper than detergent & a stiff bristle brush? My local rental shop has Edgco grinders & Home Depot might have a shotblaster. Compared to power washing, grinding is probably harder work, and a bit more time consuming (hopefully not more than a few hours), but would that produce best results? If I grinded or blasted, would I skip the power wash? Last question (for now), AG: which would provide a longer-lasting, anti-skid surface: a 2-part epoxy or one of the higher tech sealers?
Many, many thanks! This forum is good!
Scott
Mordi
Well-known member
So if someone had a polyaspartic coating, could they use EnduraShield 2254 urethane as a top coating?
Mordi
WolverineCoatings
Well-known member
I was saying to use one or the other...
thegarageguy
Well-known member
An option you might want to consider is polishing your concrete. No sealers or coatings in that process, just a densifier.
Google search concrete polishing in your area and get some quotes. There are different levels to concrete polishing so there are some things you need to learn in order to get the proper job.
Good luck.
Google search concrete polishing in your area and get some quotes. There are different levels to concrete polishing so there are some things you need to learn in order to get the proper job.
Good luck.
Walter
Active member
Here we go spending our hard earned money again. One of the great things about the densifiers is it is not complicated to apply and the more it wears the more "polished" it looks. Something similar to the concrete floors you see at Lowes. So the polishing can be done by a) normal wear over time (free). b) rent a floor buffer and use a special pad to polish. C) pay to have someone do it for you ($$$cost???).
I figure if I apply the densifier myself the total cost on 2000 sq/ft will be about $160-ish (10 gallons). After that I will install a compressor and put in the RapidAir fittings; then the drill press, etc...
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Hahaha, hey thanks for saving his money. It it wasn't for you I would of put him in the poor house. DRATS!!!
FYI, densifiers only harden the concrete and is a part of a polishing process. By itself it will not give you a polished look. In fact it will not penetrate a hard troweled surface. The first stage of polishing is to grind to expose the pores in order to allow a densifier to absorb properly. A polished concrete floor is achieved through multiple step of polishing starting from 25 grit (depending on concrete) and ending anywhere from 1800 to 3500 grit diamonds. Something that "normal wear" can never achieve. Unless Walter weighs 1000 lbs, has diamond grit sneakers and can shuffle his feet in an unheard of speed and rotation, you will never get a polished look his way.
Again, there are many levels of polished concrete, we offer 4, none are a Walter option. I couldn't even imagine what to charge for a foot shuffle normal wear eventual polish. Do your research and listen to professional advice.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Didn't Paul Simon write a song about that method? I think it goes...
"People say hes crazy
he got diamonds on the soles of his shoes
Well thats one way to lose these
concrete blues
Diamonds on the soles of his shoes"
Walter
Active member
Well, now we are getting somewhere. Densifiers will not penetrate a hard troweled surface? Dig deep between the sales pitches from the resident vendors and one can find good advice on the subject thread.
Walter
Active member
It appears that at least one densifier does penetrate what they call a "tightly troweled surface".
http://www.euclidchemical.com/fileshare/ProductFiles/techdata/euco_diamond_hard.pdf
The densifier that I plan on using Euco Diamond Hard claims just that. And it also claims to have a medium gloss. It can be applied with a soft bristled hand broom, brush or auto-scrubber.
There is another product on the table that I referenced before that offers a high gloss: BASF Sonneborn Kure-N-Seal 30.
http://www.euclidchemical.com/fileshare/ProductFiles/techdata/euco_diamond_hard.pdf
The densifier that I plan on using Euco Diamond Hard claims just that. And it also claims to have a medium gloss. It can be applied with a soft bristled hand broom, brush or auto-scrubber.
There is another product on the table that I referenced before that offers a high gloss: BASF Sonneborn Kure-N-Seal 30.
What type of sealer is the AcryliSeal 3501, is that the nano-sealer? I don't see it listed on the Wolverine site.
Thanks, that may be just the ticket for me (550 sq/ft space)
Walter - It seems the Euclid Diamond Hard densifier can provide similar benefits as epoxy, cheaper. Sounds good. Are you going to grind or blast the floor before applying the densifier? (Are going to polish your floor?) Would you add non-skid particles on top of the densifier, maybe under a topcoat of urethane? I'm on limited budget, with a 50 year old 720 sq ft garage. - ScottAlbi
Walter
Active member
Yeah, there are similar benefits but they are completely different animals. Applying this densifier will not mask the fact that this floor is concrete. Some of the other benefits are it will resist tire marks, eliminate concrete dust and resist staining from solvents. The tech sheet says spills should not be left to soak in. (I'll resist temptation to refuel my tractor inside the building)
No I have no intention to do any grinding, blasting or etching, etc... This is a new concrete pad. My metal building was completed a couple of weeks ago (40' x 50'). I have yet to see it because I am overseas but I'll be home in 3 weeks. While I've been away I have been researching options for the concrete floor. As I stated above these type of densifiers are used on polished concrete floors at places such as Lowes and other large warehouses. It penetrates the concrete. It is not a coating. I don't intend to polish it since the surface is already "tightly troweled" and I don't want it to get too slick when wet. After all it will be my garage/workshop. So no, I will apply it according to the manufacturers instructions, probably with a brush, but if I can rent a buffer I will.
One thing to point out to you is the tech sheet says it will not darken the floor and that is what you said you would like to do as well as have a glossy look. You should look at all the products on that table as well as Ashford Formula to see if they would help darken the concrete to your liking. If not you may want to consider a stain before applying a densifier. As for me I am going to keep it simple and inexpensive.
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Walter,
I really like your approach. It sounds like you've got an enjoyable project awaiting your return. I hope you enjoy it!
BTW, parish8 (who started this thread) desires the wet look. I don't really care. I just want simple and inexpensive ...and most importantly *non-skid*. The densifier route could be the solution I'll be happiest with.
Unlike your new floor, my 50 year old floor is in pretty good shape, pretty smooth with some grease/oil stains. Would you advise me to to rent a diamond Edgco grinder, to insure the densifier penetrates? I guess after grinding gently, the surface would be non-skid. Maybe too rough for bare feet?
Thank you much,
Scott
I really like your approach. It sounds like you've got an enjoyable project awaiting your return. I hope you enjoy it!
BTW, parish8 (who started this thread) desires the wet look. I don't really care. I just want simple and inexpensive ...and most importantly *non-skid*. The densifier route could be the solution I'll be happiest with.
Unlike your new floor, my 50 year old floor is in pretty good shape, pretty smooth with some grease/oil stains. Would you advise me to to rent a diamond Edgco grinder, to insure the densifier penetrates? I guess after grinding gently, the surface would be non-skid. Maybe too rough for bare feet?
Thank you much,
Scott
rieferman
Well-known member
Ok, don't all shout at me at once... But is there really any problem just letting a concrete floor be a concrete floor? I'm really honestly asking, not teasing. My floor was poured maybe 6 weeks ago.. it's in an old barn... I'd like to spend as little on it as possible because.. it's an old barn 
That is, if I just let it be (it cured nicely when it was "born".. 4 weeks of cool humid/rainy weather, under a roof etc.) is it fine? I don't care about stains etc. Just strength for common garage/workshop things.
That is, if I just let it be (it cured nicely when it was "born".. 4 weeks of cool humid/rainy weather, under a roof etc.) is it fine? I don't care about stains etc. Just strength for common garage/workshop things.
I'm personally looking for a sealer to keep the dust down and help repell some oil/grease etc. So a sealer seems like a good choice for me to keep the look of concrete (I like the look) and not bust the bank with a polished floor.
Walter
Active member
Scott,
Thanks for correcting me on that. If you consider your 50 yr old floor to be in pretty good shape then all I would do is power wash it. If you would prefer to clean some of those old oil stains then you can do a little research on the best way to clean that up. Personally I wouldn't consider grinding. If you can source the product that you choose to use locally then make sure you ask them questions. Remember, I haven't used it yet but my plans are to do so when I get back home on the 17th. Essentially we're all in the same boat on this in that we have essentially the same goals and we have not used the product yet. I've been reasearching this as best I can for the last 6 weeks but I haven't been able to much more than internet research.
rieferman
I agree with you. The main reason I want to use the densifier is to permanently stop the concrete dust cheaply. The rest is bonus. I figure that I can do this for about $160 for 2000 sq/ft floor. That's within my budget. And when it's all finished it will still be a simple concrete floor and I will still need to sweep it out.
Thanks for correcting me on that. If you consider your 50 yr old floor to be in pretty good shape then all I would do is power wash it. If you would prefer to clean some of those old oil stains then you can do a little research on the best way to clean that up. Personally I wouldn't consider grinding. If you can source the product that you choose to use locally then make sure you ask them questions. Remember, I haven't used it yet but my plans are to do so when I get back home on the 17th. Essentially we're all in the same boat on this in that we have essentially the same goals and we have not used the product yet. I've been reasearching this as best I can for the last 6 weeks but I haven't been able to much more than internet research.
rieferman
I agree with you. The main reason I want to use the densifier is to permanently stop the concrete dust cheaply. The rest is bonus. I figure that I can do this for about $160 for 2000 sq/ft floor. That's within my budget. And when it's all finished it will still be a simple concrete floor and I will still need to sweep it out.
Walter
Active member
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
It.s not listed yet on the WCC site. Their catalog has north of 1,000 formulations, only about 2 dozen are detailed online.
AcryliSeal 3501 is the Nanopolymer Acrylic Sealer Eric mentioned.
Applying it is about as simple as it gets, and it's very durable.
WolverineCoatings
Well-known member
Yeah... we only have a fraction of our products on the website. We have thousands of formulations.
Anyway, the advice I gave earlier in this thread was assuming that you wanted a sealer... just not epoxy.
Polished concrete is NOT sealed concrete.
Anyway, if anyone is looking for information on the AcryliSeal 3501 (Nanopolymer) then just contact Fred (AlphaGarage).
Anyway, the advice I gave earlier in this thread was assuming that you wanted a sealer... just not epoxy.
Polished concrete is NOT sealed concrete.
Anyway, if anyone is looking for information on the AcryliSeal 3501 (Nanopolymer) then just contact Fred (AlphaGarage).
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Funny how you blame me for "A" being a vendor and "B" having a sales pitch while at the same time spewing the Euclid sales pitch almost verbatim.
GarageGuy,
I've read pretty much all your posts and responses in this and other threads and respect your opinion and expertise (that'll be $5, please!). No, seriously. Walter and I seem to be on the same wavelength re: doing an economical DIY project that will simply protect the floor. I've called around a bit (hardware and paint shops, not concrete dudes) and no one seems to know about densifiers, let alone the specific Euco Diamond Hard made by Euclid Chemicals. I also don't find much info where to buy it on the web...
...leading me to my question: do you feel Euco Diamond Hard will/could/should perform as we are leading ourselves to believe, and hope? Applying this penetrating densifier seems like the Holy Grail to we few who are not ready to jump "whole hog" into the more involved and expensive epoxy project.
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
AlphaGarage,
I didn't mean to leave you out. As a former physics major, I appreciate the technical information at your fingertips and of course, invite you to weigh in! FYI, I'm downloading all your product datasheets for some "light" reading...
Many thanks, kudos, Guys.
Scott
I've read pretty much all your posts and responses in this and other threads and respect your opinion and expertise (that'll be $5, please!). No, seriously. Walter and I seem to be on the same wavelength re: doing an economical DIY project that will simply protect the floor. I've called around a bit (hardware and paint shops, not concrete dudes) and no one seems to know about densifiers, let alone the specific Euco Diamond Hard made by Euclid Chemicals. I also don't find much info where to buy it on the web...
...leading me to my question: do you feel Euco Diamond Hard will/could/should perform as we are leading ourselves to believe, and hope? Applying this penetrating densifier seems like the Holy Grail to we few who are not ready to jump "whole hog" into the more involved and expensive epoxy project.
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
AlphaGarage,
I didn't mean to leave you out. As a former physics major, I appreciate the technical information at your fingertips and of course, invite you to weigh in! FYI, I'm downloading all your product datasheets for some "light" reading...
Many thanks, kudos, Guys.
Scott
Walter
Active member
I have considered many different products from several different manufacturers for my project and I have provided links for everyone to do their own research. I've stated from the beginning that I have done my research and chose a particular product and why. This was all done to enable a unbiased and informative discussion between us regular guys, garage owners, on a particular subject. This is what I plan on applying to my concrete floor. But i've said that already.
I have a problem with the way the "vendors" have been participating on this forum and the lack of adult supervision from the moderators. Frankly, I think TGJ should provide separate vendors forums within TGJ; to provide information on your wares if one would want to venture in there to ask. Outside of the vendor forums there should be strict controls and code for the vendors to provide only general or non-specific information (no prices, or specific product info), to act as a participant in the thread discussions as one would hope you could have done on your own. Members could refer others to your particular vendor forums if they wish but that should be it, and prevent the threads from being hijacked by vultures.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Scottalbi,
All I can tell you is that I use some of Euclid products. They are a huge company and have great products. Some better than others. As for a densifier that you buff out to get a "polished concrete look", I don't know. It seems like a good answer for an interior type foot traffic only situation. I'm positive it will not have the impact resistance, the chemical resistance, less maintanance and the longevity of a full resinous system. If it was the "garage floor holy grail", then Euclid would quit formulating and producing all their resinous systems and offer just Diamond Hard. If dust proofing and a bit of sheen is what you are looking for, then maybe its for you. Remember, to get that shine, you'll need to buff it out with a beige pad, then a white pad. I'm sure with use and abuse you'll need to buff it out once in a while to get it back or at least near back to its original shine. Either that or invest in some of Walter's shoes.
I couldn't agree with you more. Just don't bundle me in this group. This site has turned into a Wolverine/RaceDeck infomercial.
All I can tell you is that I use some of Euclid products. They are a huge company and have great products. Some better than others. As for a densifier that you buff out to get a "polished concrete look", I don't know. It seems like a good answer for an interior type foot traffic only situation. I'm positive it will not have the impact resistance, the chemical resistance, less maintanance and the longevity of a full resinous system. If it was the "garage floor holy grail", then Euclid would quit formulating and producing all their resinous systems and offer just Diamond Hard. If dust proofing and a bit of sheen is what you are looking for, then maybe its for you. Remember, to get that shine, you'll need to buff it out with a beige pad, then a white pad. I'm sure with use and abuse you'll need to buff it out once in a while to get it back or at least near back to its original shine. Either that or invest in some of Walter's shoes.
I couldn't agree with you more. Just don't bundle me in this group. This site has turned into a Wolverine/RaceDeck infomercial.
rieferman
Well-known member
I really like your suggestion Walter - it seems like it would allow for the best of both worlds.. a place to ask vendors questions, and a place to talk to non-vendors to get "what did you really experience" types of comments. If the mods are reading this, I think we'd be interested in hearing your take
GarageGuy,
I'm not looking for a polished or shiny surface, just a tight, anti-skid surface that's easy to keep clean. The Euco DH only costs $100 for 5 gal, and I would skip the labor & cost of grinding.
If I go the epoxy route, I would want to grind. It costs about $100 in north NJ to rent a grinder plus another $150-200 to buy a diamond wheel. How much of a hassle is it to grind my 720 sq ft floor? A day?
- Scott
I'm not looking for a polished or shiny surface, just a tight, anti-skid surface that's easy to keep clean. The Euco DH only costs $100 for 5 gal, and I would skip the labor & cost of grinding.
If I go the epoxy route, I would want to grind. It costs about $100 in north NJ to rent a grinder plus another $150-200 to buy a diamond wheel. How much of a hassle is it to grind my 720 sq ft floor? A day?
- Scott
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Scottalbi,
All I'm saying is know what your getting and don't expect it to perform like a full resinous system. If its limitations meet your expectations then there should be no problems. Good luck.
All I'm saying is know what your getting and don't expect it to perform like a full resinous system. If its limitations meet your expectations then there should be no problems. Good luck.
I'm leaning toward the Euclid Diamond Hard product that Walter is posting about. Looks like a low cost product that will improve a garage floor. I talked to a local (Dallas) company rep and he said the floor does need to be clean before application, and any that's not absorbed has to be wiped off. Looks like vigorous manual or rotary brushing is how it's applied. The rep also said it does provide some stain protection, but any spills should be wiped off ASAP as it can be stained. Other than it's not going to be as attractive as most other finishes, that's the only significant negative I've heard about Euco Diamond Hard. One of the company web pages mentioned that a second application can be used to improve the appearance and performance. Also buffing after it's dry will bring out more gloss. 5 gal containers cost about $100, and that looks like more than enough for most residential garages.
Here's a link to the main site. You can follow their technical documents links to see photos and other info.
http://www.euclidchemical.com/
Here's a link to the main site. You can follow their technical documents links to see photos and other info.
http://www.euclidchemical.com/
Walter
Active member
When do you plan on doing this? How big is the floor? I am really interested in how this turns out.
Here's a company that sells it for $86 for 5 Gal. You'll have to call them to find out how to order it.
http://www.chasephipps.com/estimating_guide.asp Enter the Item #.
Item #1432970, Euclid Euco Diamond Hard, $86.00 for 5 gal.
I spoke to a mat salesman today, who knew of this product. Says it would be good.
http://www.chasephipps.com/estimating_guide.asp Enter the Item #.
Item #1432970, Euclid Euco Diamond Hard, $86.00 for 5 gal.
I spoke to a mat salesman today, who knew of this product. Says it would be good.
In my friends shop he waxes the floors. He buys a generic brand from Walmart etc. Get out the mop every once in a while and apply the wax. It looks great, stays dark and anything cleans up easily. That is also the method they used at the airbag company i used to work at as well as the Aerospace company I currently work at. Hundreds of thousands of square feet of concrete. All wax. of course they use a spray bottle and a walk behind polisher in the industrial setting.