best sealant. not epoxy
- Thread starter parish8
- Start date
Walter,
I plan on doing the 450 sq' floor about 1st of Aug. House is not really ours yet. Closing is 7/31. The concrete looks pretty good for 8 years old. Smooth, no cracks or joints, and very little under-car staining. I'm thinking about doing a 2 pass application to see if that will give a little better stain protection and appearance. Also probably polish out a little with the rented buffer/brush.
Don
I plan on doing the 450 sq' floor about 1st of Aug. House is not really ours yet. Closing is 7/31. The concrete looks pretty good for 8 years old. Smooth, no cracks or joints, and very little under-car staining. I'm thinking about doing a 2 pass application to see if that will give a little better stain protection and appearance. Also probably polish out a little with the rented buffer/brush.
Don
Walter
Active member
I may beat you to the punch. I'll probably do mine before then once I arrive at home and get over the jet lag. I will keep ya'll posted.
True, but so does my epoxy floor in my garage. I was just offering up a cheap alternative
General Question: Can you add a non-stick abrasive to pretty much any* liquid coating before (or after) applying?
*(sealer, densifier, paint, etc.)
FYI, I'm planning on using the Euco Diamond Hard on my ancient cement. Don't want to polish it because that sounds slippery.
*(sealer, densifier, paint, etc.)
FYI, I'm planning on using the Euco Diamond Hard on my ancient cement. Don't want to polish it because that sounds slippery.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Not necessarily. Some abrassives are added into the liquids before applying, some broadcast onto the floor after the liquids been rolled out. And some grits are too large too for thinner coatings and will be easily loosened and knocked off. Best to check with supplier about specific abrasive/coating compatibility.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Pretty good article that I though was relevant to this discussion.
http://www.concretenetwork.com/testing-concrete-sealers/results.html
http://www.concretenetwork.com/testing-concrete-sealers/results.html
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Yes. It would look a bit glossy.
Walter
Active member
Scott,
Check this article out: http://www.concretenetwork.com/stains-dyes-buyers-guide/ There is a lot more information out there. Do a google search.
I think you should stay away from the pigment based stains as they will fill the pores of the concrete and not allow the densifier to penetrate. Maybe it would be a good idea to call Euclid Chemical a call and see what they have to say.
I considered staining my pad but i don't really like the color options. They seemed too dark or too funky (whispy blue hues). Plain vanilla for me.
FYI- My buddy just picked up 10 gal of Diamond Hard for me. I hope to apply it when I get home next weekend or shortly thereafter.
benjamming
Well-known member
I applied Euco Diamond Hard to my half-basement (~1400 ft2) & garage (~1000ft2). You need to wait at least 1 month prior to applying this densifier. The garage was trowel finish. Basement floor was a mess when poured due to rain right after the pour. It took me & 3-4 other guys 6-8 hrs to complete. We did 2 applications to both areas though. We used pads, including the diamond pads, to prep & finish the floor. Any stains/dirt that isn't removed prior to application will always be there, always. Push brooms were used to move around the densifier. You will remove the extra liquid or will have to grind it away if left to harden. It looks pretty good IMHO.
The floor does not dust which was/is the point. The floor is not slick.
I need to apply something to the cracks though to keep the edges from breaking especially at the saw joint intersections.
The floor does not dust which was/is the point. The floor is not slick.
I need to apply something to the cracks though to keep the edges from breaking especially at the saw joint intersections.
benjamming,
Congratulations on a finished job you are now enjoying!
It sounds like you did some major prep work. Did you really need to diamond grind the surface? Your floor sounds new. Mine is 50 years old, kind of dingy and stained in some places. My intent is to scrub, powerwash and maybe acid etch the concrete, but not grind. (I could knock out the grinding in a day, but it the machine rental & disc purchase would set me back $250-300.) Do you recommend grinding for Euco DH, and if so, how strongly do you recommend that?
Thanks,
Scott
Congratulations on a finished job you are now enjoying!
It sounds like you did some major prep work. Did you really need to diamond grind the surface? Your floor sounds new. Mine is 50 years old, kind of dingy and stained in some places. My intent is to scrub, powerwash and maybe acid etch the concrete, but not grind. (I could knock out the grinding in a day, but it the machine rental & disc purchase would set me back $250-300.) Do you recommend grinding for Euco DH, and if so, how strongly do you recommend that?
Thanks,
Scott
benjamming
Well-known member
Like I said, the basement floor was a mess & that is the reason we did the diamond grind. It was worth it to me. We didn't do that to the garage floor that was in good shape. It just needed cleaning real well. I don't see the point in acid etching the concrete. I would grind before I would acid etch with Euco DH.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Some pics would serve this discussion greatly
wildcat12
Active member
2 coats of water based epoxy in clear..... any damn brand !
thegarageguy
Well-known member
Defeats their purpose
To benjamming:
"Push brooms were used to move around the densifier. You will remove the extra liquid or will have to grind it away if left to harden."
How did you remove the extra liquid? Did you mop up any extra, or just carefully applied only what the concrete would soak up? I can't see brushing it outside as it would change the appearance of the drive. Any problem walking around on the wet surface as you worked in the chemical?
Did you cover the lower part of the walls with tape/plastic to keep them clean? Looks like the walls may need some protection if you pressure wash. Any suggestion on this? Looks like I will start on my floor next week.
"Push brooms were used to move around the densifier. You will remove the extra liquid or will have to grind it away if left to harden."
How did you remove the extra liquid? Did you mop up any extra, or just carefully applied only what the concrete would soak up? I can't see brushing it outside as it would change the appearance of the drive. Any problem walking around on the wet surface as you worked in the chemical?
Did you cover the lower part of the walls with tape/plastic to keep them clean? Looks like the walls may need some protection if you pressure wash. Any suggestion on this? Looks like I will start on my floor next week.
benjamming
Well-known member
No problem with walking around while wet, just work from one "corner" out so that it's clean. We also used squeegees. There was no extra liquid that I recall. No mops were used.
We didn't take any effort, materials wise, to protect the walls. The garage already had drywall & wasn't affected at all from stray streams. We didn't use a pressure washer though. We rented floor scrubbers.
We didn't take any effort, materials wise, to protect the walls. The garage already had drywall & wasn't affected at all from stray streams. We didn't use a pressure washer though. We rented floor scrubbers.
Piper
Well-known member
anyone have any further reports on Euco Diamond Hard? I picked up 5 gals yesterday for the floor we're going to be pouring in ~2 weeks. The instructions say you only need to brush it on. What's up with the floor scrubbers?
Piper
Well-known member
I got mine for CAN$145 for 5 gallons.
Euco Diamond Hard is $86 online from chasphipps.com + $65 general freight (hazardous material). I found a couple shops where I live in the Northeast $140/5 Gal bucket.
Check out "Walter", earlier in this thread, who just did his new floor in EDH. He may be able to help answer "What's up with the floor scrubbers?"
Check out "Walter", earlier in this thread, who just did his new floor in EDH. He may be able to help answer "What's up with the floor scrubbers?"
benjamming
Well-known member
Floor scrubbers were in the prep. We also used a scrubber to work the DH into the concrete.
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benjamming
Well-known member
Euco DH Estimator says you need 5.1 gal not including waste or spillage.
Yeah, I knew it was close, the problem is they only sell it in 5 gallon pails according to their website? The part that isn't going to see a vehicle might not get done? What about 2 coats?
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
Walrus, maybe you could neglect to coat the area under storage shelves or workbench???
benjamming
Well-known member
Remember, those are rough estimates as well. Some concrete will absorb more, some less of the densifier. It can also be purchased in 55-gal drums but you probably don't want to go there.
Thats what I'm going to do, I also have a row of blocks around the perimeter so my sq footage drops alittle. I found a local supplier, 111 bucks for a 5 gallon pail. Should get it tomorrow
Benjamming, What was your experience with the scrubbers? What kind of pad(s)? I've talked to a couple people who have found it hard going, taking lots of muscle, sometimes frustrating, to use the black (most abrasive) pads.
Walter
Active member
I found that it was a lot easier to buff the floor AFTER it dried. Using it to work the product in was more difficult. I gave up on that after I did 1000 sq/ft. The other half I just sprayed it on.
Walter
Active member
The idea with the floor scrubber is to work the product in to the concrete. Depending on the temperature the product will begin gelling. Scrubbing it in will break the surface tension allowing better penetration.
Ensure your concrete is clean. I power washed my slab twice prior to application. I still had some red dirt in my concrete which made a reddish muddy slurry that began to discolor the concrete. So I didn't work in the second half with the scrubber. The product worked in fine without scrubbing.
The next day I buffed the floor. This helped a lot and it was easier to do once dried than when buffing in the product.
Walter
Active member
The product beaded up on any previously applied area. Any spotting was buffed out. I did read that it could be applied in a 2nd coat but I'm not sure how without it beading up.
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thegarageguy
Well-known member
Hey Walter how bout some before and after pics?
Walter
Active member
There really isn't that much to see. It still looks like concrete to me. Right now the electricians are in there. I need to sweep up as it's still dusty from the buffing. I'll take some pics when they get out and post next week.