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Best sealer for garage floor?

TNToy

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Not going to epoxy my floor. It won't hold up to welding, grinding, dropping steel stock on it... etc.

I've already pressure washed and acid etched the floor, but I'm not going to follow through with my plan to polish the floor.

So I now want to seal it. NOT a clear topcoat. If it sits on the concrete and you can remove it with a hammer and chisel, I'm not interested. Anyone familiar with a sealer more along the lines of a waterproofer that soaks down INTO the concrete, so surface damage won't affect it?

I just need something reisstant to brake fluid, oil, and coolant so I can wipe up fluid spills.

Any ideas?
 
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boiler7904

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TNToy said:
Not going to epoxy my floor. It won't hold up to welding, grinding, dropping steel stock on it... etc.

I've already pressure washed and acid etched the floor, but I'm not going to follow through with my plan to polish the floor.

So I now want to seal it. NOT a clear topcoat. If it sits on the concrete and you can remove it with a hammer and chisel, I'm not interested. Anyone familiar with a sealer more along the lines of a waterproofer that soaks down INTO the concrete, so surface damage won't affect it?

I just need something reisstant to brake fluid, oil, and coolant so I can wipe up fluid spills.

Any ideas?
The first thing that comes to mind is Lapidolith. It is a concrete hardener and dustproofer that is "ideal for aged concrete surfaces" Their words not mine. The pdf file in the link gives a long list of chemicals it is resistant to and its other properties. I would think a local contractor supply house would have some in stock or be able to order it fairly quickly.

Lapidolith Tech Info

I used this in a warehouse and loading dock for an injection over-molding company this summer. Seems to have a decent gloss and be easy to clean. I want to say that it was in the neighborhood of $.40 a squrae foot for professional applciation.

Good luck.
 

MyDomain

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This stuff sounds like it would be good for sidewalks and concrete porches to prevent salt damage and reduce weathering. Yes? Any negatives?

Sorry to jack the thread.
 

sjsfire

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Check out the H&C sealer by sherwin williams. Thats what I'm going to use in the spring. There must be 35 different colors you can tint it.
 
OP
T

TNToy

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Hey... duh! Sherwin Williams....

I'll stop by their local store sometime this week, and hopefully there'll be at least one employee that actually is familiar with their concrete products. :)

Thanks for the idea.

But... tint? That makes me think it's more of a top-coat than something that soaks down into the concrete. Like I said, I want NO film or coating on top of the concrete, because it'll look horrible when half of it has been scraped and gouged off of the surface. Can you tint concrete with a product that does something like this?
 

toolfreak

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I worked for a concrete contractor a few years ago and he always bought his sealer at General Rental. I believe it was called cure and seal made by dayton superior. We always just sprayed it on with a chapin sprayer and it soaks into the concrete.

Brad
 

ron in sc

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Like I said, I want NO film or coating on top of the concrete, because it'll look horrible when half of it has been scraped and gouged off of the surface.

Have you found or tried anything. I'm in the same boat. I also would like the floor to resist chemical damage. Even some of the paints I've used will damage a finish if spilled on a painted floor.

I tested a sample of the product PremierGarage sells and it failed. I wanted to see if it would resist paint remover. It just lifted the coating right off the sample. Maybe there are no products that will resist paint remover and my test was not really fair, but it would be nice if there is some product that once cured can not be removed chemicaly.

Maybe the only alternative for people who put a floor to very hard use is just concrete with no finish. It seem that lots of the products I've found so far are more for show.

I define hard use as subjecting the floor to chemicals, dropping steel, pulling 1000 lb scissors lift, pulling floor jacks accross.
 
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Jimmy Pet

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Hi Guys,
Long time reader, First time poster here. Resurecting this thread.

Now that I am finally building a a garage of my own instead of renting forever,,, I am in the same boat as TNT.
I'm looking to do the exact same floor he and Ron in SC are talking about.
A smooth, solid, NON PAINTED polished / sealed floor that will not get damaged by hard use.

I dont care what color it is,,, I dont care if its pink,,, as long as it doesnt chip or scratch up,,, or care if I spill brake fluid all over it, or welding slag.
No pretty painted epoxy coatings, just a smooth, solid, moppable(?) heavy duty type floor.

This quote pretty much says it all for me:
"I define hard use as subjecting the floor to chemicals, dropping steel, pulling 1000 lb scissors lift, pulling floor jacks accross." My feelings exactly.

Have any of you found the good sealer to put into, or over, concrete?

Any tecniques for facilitating this finish going into a fresh pour?

Thanks for any information or products you may reccomend.
Cheers
jimmy pettinato
Scranton, PA USA
 

bmwpower

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Jimmy Pet said:
This quote pretty much says it all for me:
"I define hard use as subjecting the floor to chemicals, dropping steel, pulling 1000 lb scissors lift, pulling floor jacks accross." My feelings exactly.

I don't see how anything is going to hold up to this hard use. Any surface is going to get messed up with this type of use.
 

ron in sc

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I don't see how anything is going to hold up to this hard use.

I've pretty much come to the conclusion that I'll just have a regular concrete floor with no finish. For as much hard use that I will put it to nothing is going to be worth putting on it. I can tear up a floor or a countertop in a matter of hours.

Although maybe it I can get the concrete colored all the way thru that might be an idea.
 

Jimmy Pet

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Just so everyone is clear, I have no delusions it will be pretty,,, just a smooth moppable, sweepable, easy to roll a creaper on surface.

I am going to ask my GC to polish it as smooth as possible and seal it with the best stuff he knows and go for it from there.

My brother has a stunning garage, with perfect professionally done tan epoxy floors. These floors are beautiful. No tire pickup, rubber marks mop right off, resist chipping reasonbly well,,, cost alot to do it right as many of you on here know and have documented.

We were working on his M3 at head height on the lift, and I dropped something steel and sharp,,,(I think a caliper bracket) and it put a big dinger in his paint and the floor underneath.
I felt terrible about it.
I never want to feel terrible about dropping something on my garage floor.
If it puts a big dinger in my floor,,, I want to be able to put some epoxy in it, and grind it smooth and call it a day.

Cheers
jimmy p.
 

bmwpower

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ron in sc said:
I've pretty much come to the conclusion that I'll just have a regular concrete floor with no finish. For as much hard use that I will put it to nothing is going to be worth putting on it. I can tear up a floor or a countertop in a matter of hours.

Although maybe it I can get the concrete colored all the way thru that might be an idea.

Throw some die into the mix before they pour! Quite an idea. The guy on the truck might cringe, but it might come out looking cool.
 

ron in sc

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I just got back from an industrial supply store. There is a product that colors the concrete all the way thru, it comes in bags and it's just dumped in the concrete truck and mixed. The problem is it still has to be sealed and the sealer is an acrylic based product that says it will not hold up to gasoline or brake fluid.
 

ron in sc

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Epoxy Concrete Sealer

This may be a good product for people that just want a real durable finish. It’s just a sealer that's pretty much clear. If it gets scracthed bad or gouged you can just recoat the damaged area. Supposedly it’s resistant to many chemicals including acids, alkalis, oils, gasoline, and jet fuel.

I'm sure it's not resistant to everything but it sounds like when you damage an area you can fix it pretty easily. Unlike some of the floors that look beatiful when done but bad once they have been abused.

The link below has lot of good information. The stuff is about $300 for 2 gallons.

http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=134
 
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I know this is an old thread, but thought that I'd reply in case anyone has been searching for a great non-epoxy floor coating.
The answer was listed near the begining; Lapidolith
We have this coating on a 100,000 sq ft fabrication/manufacturing facility and it's GREAT! Holds up very well and doesn't chip off unless part of the floor is attached to it! Constant fork truck traffic, wooden and steel pallets being slid around, etc. The more it's used and cleaned the better it looks.

I would highly recommend it for a "working" shop!!
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Not going to epoxy my floor. It won't hold up to welding, grinding, dropping steel stock on it... etc.

I've already pressure washed and acid etched the floor, but I'm not going to follow through with my plan to polish the floor.

So I now want to seal it. NOT a clear topcoat. If it sits on the concrete and you can remove it with a hammer and chisel, I'm not interested. Anyone familiar with a sealer more along the lines of a waterproofer that soaks down INTO the concrete, so surface damage won't affect it?

I just need something reisstant to brake fluid, oil, and coolant so I can wipe up fluid spills.

Any ideas?

Step into my office.
We have a variety of penetrative sealers and densifiers.
Please hit the link in my signature for more info.
 

robertwhite

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I know this is an old thread, but thought that I'd reply in case anyone has been searching for a great non-epoxy floor coating.
The answer was listed near the begining; Lapidolith
We have this coating on a 100,000 sq ft fabrication/manufacturing facility and it's GREAT! Holds up very well and doesn't chip off unless part of the floor is attached to it! Constant fork truck traffic, wooden and steel pallets being slid around, etc. The more it's used and cleaned the better it looks.

I would highly recommend it for a "working" shop!!

Obtained from?

I am only going to seal 2200 sq ft, but epoxy is out of the question both cost and usage wise.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Pjsz

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Awesome thread. I wonder what someone will post in 2015? In case your looking for a non toxic garage , here are densifiers that passed the strictest indoor air quality in 2010:

http://www.greenmanufacturer.net/ne...-products-pass-leed-chps-testing-requirements

To quote the article in case it's gone by 2015:

Concrete floor products pass LEED, CHPS testing requirements
July 6, 2010
Five concrete floor products from L&M Construction Chemicals, Omaha, Neb., have passed the product testing requirements in the LEED® and CHPS green rating systems. All five of the products tested passed North America’s strictest indoor air emissions criteria, including California Section 01350. By passing the tests, the products gained a spot on the CHPS High Performance Products Database.
Three of the five products tested by Berkeley Analytical Associates are used for the installation, coloring, or maintenance of a polished concrete floor system. FGS® Hardener Plus™ is a water-based, odorless, and environmentally safe concrete densifier, hardener, sealer, and dustproofer. The FGS Concrete Conditioner is a mild, concentrated cleaner and conditioner for hardened, polished concrete floors that rinses clean and does not affect the slip profile of floors. Available in 24 standard colors, VIVID Dye™ is designed to color interior polished concrete surfaces.
The remaining two approved products generally are used on bare concrete floors. SEALHARD™ seals, densifies, hardens, and dustproofs concrete floors and increases wear surface strength. It can be used on bare concrete floors. LiON HARD™ is a lithium silicate hardener for applying to new and existing, cured concrete as a chemical hardener, dustproofer, and densifier.
 

PaulR

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LOL.

I printed and studied some info on Lapidolith as well. Looks great but I'm also wondering for my 1500 sqft home garage that kids also play in...what is the cancer risk with that stuff?

I think my mind is set on polishing and densifying my 10 year old floor, I'm just waiting for more info and some experience from people that have actually done it.
 

thegarageguy

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What you guys might want to consider is bringing your floor up to a 200-400 grit polish, then densify, then burnish. It'll give a satin finish without a film or coating. I think Lowes and HD are polished to 400 or 800 grit. Not ideal in a garage in my opinion because of vehicle fluids still able to stain it but should work well with weld slag.
 

Edger

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Hi guys,

I have your answer.

See http://www.situp.com.au/Concrete Sealant Alternative.html for some background information.

This explains all the concrete hardeners available which is precisely what you want. They are not a coating and yet they seal off the floor so liquids find it hard to soak in. The concrete is made much harder than normal with no visible difference to the surface. It will preserve your concrete and make it much more resistant to severe use. Best of all they are cheap compared to coatings, but the floor needs to be porous. I know Sherwin Williams were producing some great products for this purpose, but not being in USA I do not know if they are available yet.
 

ronstory

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Portland, OR
Quick question on densifiers... are they slippery or do you need to add some sort of traction material when applying?

Thanks,
Ron
 

RTcat

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South Central Wi
This lapidolith is old technology and requires water flushing.
You want a lithium densifier that requires no water.

We have more densifiers than you can shake a stick at:

http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/concrete-densifier-c-22.html?zenid=2c3862cf1cad5da7e62c2f3967c0d2d4

Our "Densifier Plus" is the ticket for a working man's garage.

So if I put down "Densifier Plus" on my soon-to-be-poured shop floor, what happens to liquids (ie: gas, oil, antifreeze, snowmelt) when they hit the "Densifier Plus'd" floor? Do they sit on top of the floor 'cause the concrete surface is now not porus, and can be wiped up like they could on an epoxy floor?
 

marc@kentucky

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So if I put down "Densifier Plus" on my soon-to-be-poured shop floor, what happens to liquids (ie: gas, oil, antifreeze, snowmelt) when they hit the "Densifier Plus'd" floor? Do they sit on top of the floor 'cause the concrete surface is now not porus, and can be wiped up like they could on an epoxy floor?

I'm sure Scott will chime in when he can- but my understanding based on researching densifiers for quite some time is that the densifier will delay the spill from staining but not prevent it. In other words, depending on how smooth the finish was to begin with and how well the densifier "worked", you can possibly prevent staining if you get to it quickly- but you cannot leave liquid and expect it not to soak in or stain in the same way you could with an epoxy.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Thanks for the intro Mark.
I have been in Alabama and Florida all week scouting for a potential sales office move for Legacy Industrial. Still up in the air.

You are correct regarding the densifier and over time your foot and vehicle traffic will help to create a burnish on the floor, a light sheen.

also...we have a stain/densifier combination now that has been getting some interesting feedback as well.

Our densifier products are used throughout North and Central America for polishing and sealing purposes. They are an excellent protector for outdoor concrete as well as indoors.

Lastly, most densifiers contain "no carcinogens" and are green products.
Some manufacturers like to state the obvious. :)
All of ours are safe.
 
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