I’m located in SC and am looking to build a detached garage/shop in my backyard. I have a limit of 796 sq ft imposed by the county. I would like to know what is the best size to go with within that limit from you all’s experience? I would like to have a 2 post lift in one of the bays for basic maintenance on our vehicles. I will be doing as much of the work as I can to save some bucks and for the personal satisfaction. Thanks in advance.
Best size for 800 Sq. FT Limit
- Thread starter mdmoore23
- Start date
I'll start, without knowing a lot of detail for all that you want to do in there, the orientation and a bunch more info... how about 20x40
LopezBart
Well-known member
I'd make that 20 x 39' 9 9/16" to not run afoul of some idiot in the planning department 
.... actually, if you want multiple bays, I'd go with 24x33'2" so you can fit a full size pickup and still have room for walls, insulation, toolboxes, etc.
.... actually, if you want multiple bays, I'd go with 24x33'2" so you can fit a full size pickup and still have room for walls, insulation, toolboxes, etc.One of my shops was 18 x 40 for the lift area. It allowed me enough space to line the walls with equipment and boxes and wrench on stuff. Door opening was a bit limited but I made it work. It also allowed for one on the lift, one under and one in the front when it had too. Personally if I had to do something like that again I’d stick with 20 for the width at a minimum.
Thanks for the replies. I had my mind set on doing a 32x30, with the gables being on the sides and not front/back. In my zone, the secondary structures on your lot can not exceed 50% of your home size. I didn’t think my 12x16 shed would factor into that since no permit was required for it. But the planning division says that it actually does. So now I’m trying to regroup and find a good compromise. I assume I need at least 12 foot walls, but I also cannot have the peak of the shop go over my home’s roof which peaks at about 20-22 feet. I’d mainly be doing personal vehicle maintenance in there and parking 2 of our cars and golf cart.
dante2
Well-known member
I also had a limit on SF by the city. I used every inch they allowed at 24x35. I recommend the 24ft depth also. I have a HF 44" in front and still have room to work in front and squeeze around behind the vehicle. I have a Forward I10 and haven't had any issues getting a vehicle to full height. I don't have a crew cab truck so no idea if they will go to full height. My ceiling height is 13'7" with 10ft walls.
You're probably going to want scissor trusses too.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
26 by 30 would give you a lift slot and a non-lift slot.
What county in SC? I live in Horry, but am in the city limits of Conway so I fall under their archaic rules. I wanted to put a 12x16 shed up and the limitations where I could place it in regards to the house and garage made me give up.
1/2 mile down the road in the County I would be able to do anything I wanted to. Good Luck and remember to be patient.
1/2 mile down the road in the County I would be able to do anything I wanted to. Good Luck and remember to be patient.
billconner
Well-known member
28' x 28' would be my choice. Or add onto house so it can be bigger.
A variation of this thought.
If it's attached to the house, is the size unlimited ? Creating a simple covered breezeway count for "attached" ?
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Since the shed required no permit, move it off the property to a storage facility or relative’s property, build a bigger shop, then when it is done, move the shed back with no permit required?
Bessy
Well-known member
I am jumping in on the 28x28 band wagon, not knowing the layout of your lot or approximate position of the shop. Elementary school math taught me that a square has the largest area for a fixed perimeter. It keeps you below your 796 requirements (actually you could still add a 4×4 compressor bump out off the back and stay under your requirements), and gives ample space for even lifting a long bed cc truck, if you ever so choose.
billconner
Well-known member
I like the 28' width for door swings, bikes and stuff stored at side, etc. 20 or 24 feet just too narrow for two vehicles IMHO.
rd65
Well-known member
I'd go with depth, then decide width. Mine is 28' deep, can fit my 1980 F350 single cab inside with more than enough room for movement at the front-rear bumper is up against door. At 32' wide I have 2 10' roll up doors set about 4' from outer walls on each side so that I can still open vehicle doors on the wall sides. Plan your slab for your lift. My slab is just over 4" with saw cuts going right down the middle front to back and side to side. Kind of screwed myself for a 2 post lift.
Steve W.
Well-known member
Footprint? I was limited by zoning to 750 sq. ft. To make it a bit easier on lumber sizes, I downsized a bit to 720 sq. ft. and made it 24 x 30. The building is NOT for cars, it's for motorcycles and fixing 'stuff'. However, during the construction phase, my son brought his 3500 Duramax in. We put the back bumper about 2" from the wall, then closed the overhead door. If we kept "think thin" in mind, we could scrape ourselves across the front bumper while our butts were dragging on the door. So, if you are planning on a crew cab with a long bed, 28' depth would be a minimum. If you plan on having a tool box in front of the vehicle, add at least another two feet to that.
Height? A bike on a lift does not need nearly the height of a car on a lift. Zoning restricted me to a 12' average from eave to peak. With the 24' depth and an 8' eave, a 16' peak gave me that 12' average. I went with attic trusses that gave me a 10' x 30' room above the lower level. Ceiling height is a bit reduced, at about 6' 5", but I don't hit it as I am walking through, only if I stop and stand up straight.
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Height? A bike on a lift does not need nearly the height of a car on a lift. Zoning restricted me to a 12' average from eave to peak. With the 24' depth and an 8' eave, a 16' peak gave me that 12' average. I went with attic trusses that gave me a 10' x 30' room above the lower level. Ceiling height is a bit reduced, at about 6' 5", but I don't hit it as I am walking through, only if I stop and stand up straight.
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I think I'd go 24x32.
I'm in Aiken county. My 12x16 required no permit or restriction. Anything beyond that size does though. I built it myself because she'd prices were ridiculous at the time. It's only about 2 years old.
There's no good way to add on to the house. Plus, we have HOA as well and I'm pretty sure adding on to the house is a no go.
ZRX61
Well-known member
26ft deep & 30ft wide?
No spot for a breezeway. I'm in a neighborhood. I'm fortunate to have the yard size that I do. Many of the houses built after mine have substantially less.
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
I’ve always wondered is the allowable sq ‘ measure the building foot print or the interior useable square footage. I’ve always build to my specifications that met my requirements and lot availability, so never had to deal with this matter.
I wish I could. But I built the shed. It's a stout 12x16. And my drive through gate is only 10 feet wide anyway. If I would've known about this rile beforehand, I definitely would've built the shop first though.
I wish I could. But I built the shed. It's a stout 12x16. And my drive through gate is only 10 feet wide anyway. If I would've known about this rile beforehand, I definitely would've built the s
I'm definitely leaning this way.
HPRifleman
Member Emeritus
When I fought with my municipality to build my garage (full story in my build thread) my garage space was limited to a percentage of house living space. Since the building ordinances never stated one way or the other, I always referenced interior dimensions when dealing with the village. With 2x6 walls and brick exterior I "gained" 109 sq. ft. over using exterior dimensions.
Regarding the OP's question about size within his area restrictions, I would start with depth first. I think the ideal practical depth for a garage is 30'. It allows vehicle parking with benches/storage/work area along the back wall. Stuff could be moved out of the way for work on really long vehicles. I also think the practical minimum for garage depth is 25'. Much less than that and you really only have a car parking space with little room to work.
Based on this and your county's limitation, your range is:
- 30' depth allows 26 1/2' of width.
- 25' depth allows 32' of width.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I had never thought it would be anything but exterior dimensions, but looking at my county site, they say "floor area", so maybe it is interior space
billconner
Well-known member
This from IRC:
"The floor area for each floor shall be calculated from the outside dimensions of the building. The calculated floor area shall not include open porches, garages, or unused or unfinished spaces not adaptable for future use."
If it says net floor area, then interior dimensions of each room, and walk thickness and shafts don't count.
"The floor area for each floor shall be calculated from the outside dimensions of the building. The calculated floor area shall not include open porches, garages, or unused or unfinished spaces not adaptable for future use."
If it says net floor area, then interior dimensions of each room, and walk thickness and shafts don't count.
Pennsylvania 39
Active member
jasondavidmann
Well-known member
I was also limited to 800sq ft. My shop is 20x40x12 you can see it in my build thread. I consider it an oversized single bay (with hoist) and then have some extra room at the back for setup tables and larger tools.