best step drill

[greenbikemike]

I have one that served me well,but she's wear'n out and I can't make out the name of it. Who makes a good one? Thanks,
Greenbikemike

 

[A_Pmech]

Have you sharpened it?

 

[dowmace]

I have greenlee and irwin. The irwin is about 10 years old and still drills very well.

 

[devoncoolman]

My irwins are pretty good. Have a cheap 5pc set that has served me well but they don't cut well on hard metals.

 

[Fedwrench]

Hertel and Irwin work well at the shop.

 

[greenbikemike]

I 'm not sure what proper name is,I've always called it a step drill.....I use it around the shop for quick and easy stuff....mines not Titanium...
just wondering what you guys use,I don't use it everyday,but they sure come in handy,thanks again,

Greenbikemike

Looks like this.....

http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/...urce=gbase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=10728

 

[Ign]

I was meaning to start a similar thread! Has anyone used the Milwaukee ones from HD? I used to beat on the HF step bits but something has happened in the past few years and now they just don't hold an edge. But "real" ones are damn expensive, and if just one step goes dull it can be just damn annoying or render almost the entire bit unusable depending upon which step it is, so I'm hesitant to invest "real" money in something.

 

[jakemac]

I've had an Irwin that is still good after 15yrs. Lately, I've been using one from a HF 3-pack that has held up well. I don't expect it to last as long as the Irwin, but I've been surprised at how good it's holding up. I expected it to be a one-and-done, but it's still going.

 

[Koobs]

I use Irwin bits at work frequently, and they seem to last forever. I think the key is not to let them get real hot.

 

[geojag]

I use Greenlee, Milwaukee, and HF. All of them work, I like the Milwaukee best.

 

[harvey29]

I've been using my HF ones for a couple years now and the only problem I've had is I broke the tip off of one, but for the price I can't complain.

 

[quattroJoe]

I use Irwin and Milwaukee, both are holding up well. Mainly using them on steel sheet metal. The Milwaukee step bits are made in the USA, and priced pretty reasonably.

 

[PT Doc]

Has anyone tried the Norseman step bits? They have a slew of them and in sets. Based on the quality of their other drills I would venture a guess to say they would be quite good. And MADE IN THE USA!

 

[Sine Swept]

I just found a 9/16 - 1" Ideal bit in pawn shop for $25, sold!

 

[Diesel4Life]

I own several Norseman bit sets including their 3 pc.UniBit set, they are fantastic quality. I've always been very pleased with their performance.

 

[uart]

Have you sharpened it?

Can these things actually be sharpened? If so then how would you go about it?

I used to beat on the HF step bits but something has happened in the past few years and now they just don't hold an edge.

Do just mean that they no longer have an edge (sharp edge), or do you literally mean that you are somehow managing to sharpen an edge onto them, but they are no longer keeping it?

 

[SuburbanRuss]

I have an Irwin bit and a set of HF bits. The Irwin cuts nicer, however the HF are surprisingly good. The HF ones are the ones that get loaned out...

 

[A_Pmech]

Can these things actually be sharpened? If so then how would you go about it?

Absolutely! They're very easy to sharpen. Simply grind back the flute until the cutting edge is sharp again. As with any cutting tool, this is best done regularly, before the edge breaks down substantially.

 

[Ign]

Absolutely! They're very easy to sharpen. Simply grind back the flute until the cutting edge is sharp again. As with any cutting tool, this is best done regularly, before the edge breaks down substantially.

At least on the ones with the tighter steps I don't see how the average guy would do this with even the slightest semblance of success absent a surface grinder and rotary head of some kind.

I consider these un-sharpenable (sure it's a word LOL) but maybe I'm just ignorant.

edit: I bought the $50 set of Milwaukees last nite which has the two step drills and a few twist bits (don't really understand why) and a case I'll throw away....at least I had a $5 off coupon for email sign-up

 

[uart]

Absolutely! They're very easy to sharpen. Simply grind back the flute until the cutting edge is sharp again.

Thanks for the tip Andrew.

For some reason I was thinking that you'd need to grind the conical surface, which would be ridiculously difficult. So just hone the straight flute back a tiny bit to get a new sharp edge, sounds like it should work.

What tool would you use to hone it. Would a small sharpening block (the type commonly used on pocket knives) work ok, or would a small flat diamond coated file work better?

 

[greenbikemike]

Thanks for the replies and ideas,not sure I can sharpen it,the lands[steps] are pretty wore out.Thanks again,I'll do some more looking,Irwin looks like they have a reasonable priced one.

Greenbikemike

 

[Angry welder]

I have and prefer the Greenlee. Everyone I know that uses these for any length of time always refers the Greenly, and its because they have a duel cutting edge and cuts on both sides. I don't know how true it us but I have been told that they are the only ones that has this feature.

 

[uart]

Everyone I know that uses these for any length of time always refers the Greenly, and its because they have a duel cutting edge and cuts on both sides.

Almost all of the ones I've seen, even the $5 hong kong ones on ebay, have dual flutes. The difference is more likely in the quality of the steel.

 

[A_Pmech]

At least on the ones with the tighter steps I don't see how the average guy would do this with even the slightest semblance of success absent a surface grinder and rotary head of some kind.

It isn't necessary to re-grind the profile, although it can be done with an air bearing and a cam very quickly on a surface or T&C grinder. For hand sharpening, just grind the flute back into the profile until it's sharp again.

As an aside, they're easy to make. Turn the diameters as you normally would, stopping the spindle at a clocked position (where the flute will go) and withdrawing the tool. The traverse feed rate is equal to the cutting edge relief. This is handy when you need a big step drill. I don't use any relief on diameter.

What tool would you use to hone it. Would a small sharpening block (the type commonly used on pocket knives) work ok, or would a small flat diamond coated file work better?

I just use a narrow wheel on a bench grinder. A cutoff disc in an angle grinder or die grinder also works. No need for fancy stuff here. The finish of the flute isn't all that critical. From the factory they're either milled before heat treat or plunge ground.