Best tool for ball joints

[Joe H]

I was just wondering what everyone's go to tool for separating ball joints that are not getting replaced (ie something that wont wreck the boot like a fork). The pickle forks are great if you are gonna replace the ball joints anyways but in my experience they tend to wreck the boot which ***** if you are just separating the joint in order to replace something else.

On a side note anyone know of any decent priced pickle forks that are not made of cheap metal that deforms after a few uses?

 

[alamerang]

I just stick a jack under the brake disk and jack up the suspension a bit so there's no load on the control arm. Then I get my 32" pry bar and work that sucker over. If that doesn't get it I get my 36" steel pipe and my BFH and pound on that control arm until it releases.

As for a cheap pickle fork, try Harbor Freight.

 

[APEowner]

In the 30+ plus years that I've owned it I think I've used my pickle for twice. The day I bought it an old guy in the shop I was working at showed me how to pop them apart with a hammer and with those one or two exceptions I've never used any other approach.

The trick is to flex the tapered socket that the ball joint shaft goes into. If you hammer on the thinnest side of the part towards the heaviest you get the most deflection. If you use a large dead blow hammer they usually come apart with one or two hits. If you can't get at it from the correct angle you can usually hold a heavy hammer against one side while you whack the opposite side.

 

[Joe H]

As for a cheap pickle fork, try Harbor Freight.

lol I made a typo. I meant to ask for recommendations on a pickle fork set that is not made of cheap metal that deforms after a couple uses.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I have three separators, these are the two i use the most:

Franklin Ball-Joint Separator:

Klann Ball-Joint Separator:

I use the Franklin the most, but the Klann is built like the proverbial brick *********. They've never failed me and work flawlessly. The franklin is the same as the OTC branded ones. I'd also reccomend using a bungee chord with them, so when the joint pops they don't hit the ground.

I also have a Snap-on pickle fork, for the ball-joints where a separator won't work. Like BMW front wishbones, and B-Platform VAG cars. (Unless you buy the special Klann tool for them.)

 

[Joe H]

Are they exactly the same as the OTC branded ones or just the same design. I am wondering how the quality is on the OTC ones.

 

[tonydanzah]

hammer and prybar

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Are they exactly the same as the OTC branded ones or just the same design. I am wondering how the quality is on the OTC ones.

I believe they're the same. Mine is a cheap one (£25) and it's pretty stout.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

If you use a large dead blow hammer they usually come apart with one or two hits. If you can't get at it from the correct angle you can usually hold a heavy hammer against one side while you whack the opposite side.

I hope you are referring to a hard faced, ballpein looking dead blow, and not a mallet looking soft faced one.

I was helping a friend take apart a Camaro front suspension on a car he was restoring and I asked for a hammer and he hands me a good sized brass hammer. I wailed away on the sides of that spindle and it never came loose, finally I asked for a large ballpein and he handed me one (grudgingly as he is a woose and is afraid to use a hammer for its intended purpose) anyhow, about two or three hits and the joint pops right out of the spindle taper.

Many ball joints nowdays are a straight shank into the spindle with a cross bolt thru a groove in the side to hold them, and you don't need anything to get them apart.

Charles

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I hate the idea of hitting the hub with a hammer. Strikes me as being a yeehaw method. I remember seeing my former boss doing that to his friend's BMW, he was wailing on it and left a lot of marks on the hub. Lucky the aluminium didn't crack. That evening when i got home i ordered a proper separator.

You can spit joints with a pickle fork without damaging the boot if you're careful.

Many ball joints nowdays are a straight shank into the spindle with a cross bolt thru a groove in the side to hold them, and you don't need anything to get them apart.

Almost all Euro Ford cars are like this, with a pinch bolt. I find the best method of separating them is to spray with WD-40 (or similar) then pop it with a prybar, it will catch on the groove for the pinch bolt, then to shove the hub inwards and step on the wishbone. If you use a prybar between the hub ad ball-joint it just bites harder on the groove. Stepping on it (or hanging off it, if you have a lift.) works perfect.

 

[hamma]

I just take a hammer whack the bottom of the bottom of the bolt section. You can put the castle nut back on and whack that if you're worried about damaging the threads.

 

[APEowner]

I hope you are referring to a hard faced, ballpein looking dead blow, and not a mallet looking soft faced one.

Yes, that is exactly what I'm referring too.

I usually leave the nut loose on the ball joint till it's separated so it doesn't fall apart and because I have terrible aim with a hammer and I generally ****** the threads if the nuts not there.

 

[APEowner]

I hate the idea of hitting the hub with a hammer. Strikes me as being a yeehaw method. I remember seeing my former boss doing that to his friend's BMW, he was wailing on it and left a lot of marks on the hub. Lucky the aluminium didn't crack.

Hub? Do you mean the spindle? I guess I haven't run across an aluminum spindle and I'd be reluctant to wail on one if I did. I really don't have any reservations about doing that on a steel one.

 

[Joe H]

Yes, that is exactly what I'm referring too.

I usually leave the nut loose on the ball joint till it's separated so it doesn't fall apart and because I have terrible aim with a hammer and I generally ****** the threads if the nuts not there.

I have pretty crappy aim when swinging a hammer as well.

 

[APEowner]

I have pretty crappy aim when swinging a hammer as well.

I'm not usually a hammer guy. I'll put stuff in the press that others beat apart with a hammer but for a huge percentage of ball joints and tie rods the hammer just works so well once you figure out the trick. Most of the time it's one or to shots. Even when I have to straighten out the dust shield as a result of my poor aim it's faster than any other method.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Hub? Do you mean the spindle? I guess I haven't run across an aluminum spindle and I'd be reluctant to wail on one if I did. I really don't have any reservations about doing that on a steel one.

Hub/Knuckle/Spindle..

Many European ones are aluminium, BMWs, Mercedes-Benz, most VW-Audi cars, etc.

 

[Joe H]

Anyone have any recommendations on a pickle fork sets? I am not sure I want to pony up the money for the snap-on ones but the cheap ones I have ****.

 

[Toolhorder]

I use a tool similiar to Moose's but it's a Honda special tool that I think Snap-On makes since they make the majority of special Honda tools. It looks better than the OTC one, it has a spring in the middle bolt that adjusts the two halfs together. Newer versionl of it has a chain to attach it to the car so you don't take it your foot if it falls. I usually catch mine on the way down. Newer version has a sleeve that fits over the threads too to protect them from damage. If you are interested I'll take pictures tomorrow. You wouldn't like the price though. I think I paid over $200 for it.
The hit it with a hammer method is ghetto, I hate when guys at my dealer hit the control arms with a hammer. Especially on aluminum control arms.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Joe,

If you have a good air hammer, try this set:

Lisle pickle fork kit

 

[Joe H]

Joe,

If you have a good air hammer, try this set:

Lisle pickle fork kit

How well do those hold up. Have you used them?

 

[Joe H]

Nevermind read it wrong. It was the right shank size.

 

[byrd]

i have an otc and harbor freight set and they are just about the same, actually the HF seperator is one othe the few things worth buying there.

 

[Joe H]

i have an otc and harbor freight set and they are just about the same, actually the HF seperator is one othe the few things worth buying there.

I haven't had good luck with my HF separator. The tips like to bend and deform after a couple of uses.

 

[glenmore]

I have this set or something exactly like it. I have only done a handful of tie rods on German and Japanese cars and have lent them to a friend who has used them on his Chevelle. So far they have been fine but they haven't been subjected to a lot of use.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-2606-k-d-tools-41690.aspx

This set is available from different vendors but they all look exactly the same.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I picked up my (barely) used Snap-on pickle fork off eBay for cheap. It looks like it's been used once or twice, but that's it.

I will get better pics of the Klann separator tomorrow, you can put different adapters on it for different cars and ball-joints.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

How well do those hold up. Have you used them?

I've hammered on quite a few truck front ends for a buddy of mine's construction company with them. They were the hardest to come apart but there have been a lot of guys that came over to work on their cars that were taken apart and they still look good. What's nice about the kit is that you can put the handle in and give it to a guy to knock the tie rod ends out with a hammer while you are popping ball joints with the air hammer and another fork.

The pickle ends are hard forged steel but the handle end is slightly softer and will mushroom with use (like a chisel) and will need to be dressed up every now and then. At least it is not brittle and throwing of shards when you hit it.

If you are trying to save the boots, the air hammer will give you the best control and allow you to get the boot out of the way a little easier.

 

[fsrtwo]

I purchased a multi-fork set from AAP on for a Sunday 5:00 project, it has worked well. I planned on buying the KD ball joint tool for a BMW project I have planned.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...upplies&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

I really like the hammer method though. When I was a kid, an old timer taught me a trick to remove the flywheel from a mower engine, sounds similar.

 

[GDA]

I use the OTC one as shown in Moose's first pic up a couple posts ^.

GREAT tool to have on hand. Makes front end and steering/tie rods type work a breeze.

 

[stricht8]

What do you all think of this HF front end service kit?


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66686

 

[bmxr4life87]

im used to working on twin I beam front ends on the newer ford van chassis we change balljoints on those all the time and we just loosen the clamp bolt for the top and remove the lower nut and beat the holy **** out of the i-beam to shock the balljoint loose. no more than 5 swings with the 4lb sledge and they spindles are on the ground. We have constructed special service tools for removing/installing the balljoints since they install into the spindle. It involves some 3/4 drive sockets with pipe welded onto them and a 3/4 extension as our handle and a 4lb sledge but i have no problem hitting the housing to shock the tie rod end or ball joint loose as long as you can swing a hammer properly

 

[dede2897234]

I also agree with Moose as far as acquiring a used Snap-on (or other high quality) pickle fork on eBay for about $20 (without shipping).

Once you purchase a pickle fork, you can purchase from an internet tool reseller or directly from Thexton a tie-rod/ball joint boot saver plastic shims set. It is model 465 and here is the link to the shims: http://thexton.com/index.cfm/pageid/34. You cannot beat the price of $1.99 per set. I own 3 of them. Unfortunately, I have not had a chance to used them.

Moose and others have mentioned the OTC 6297 ball joint separator. I purchased mine new for about $50. The width of the opening is only 15/16". I tried last year using it on my 2003 Subaru Forester and it was not wide enough.

Both Assenmacher Specialty Tools (products made in Taiwan or China) and Kukko (German) make a ball joint separator that has an opening width of 1-1/8". I purchased mine earlier this year from CostPlusTools.com for slightly under $80 shipped. CostPlusTools arranged for Assenmacher to drop ship the ball joint puller from their Colorado facility. Here is the link to the AST 1201 ball joint puller on CostPlusTools' website:
http://www.costplustools.com/Assenmacher-1201-Tie-Rod-EndBall-Joint-Puller-_p_9974.html. I priced the Kukko 129-0 ball joint puller at various German automotive tool resellers including Baum Tools in Sarasota, Florida. The average price was $160 (not including shipping). I am sure the Kukko is superior to the AST but not on my "do-it-yourself" budget and the infrequency of its use on my automobiles.


Dave

 

[Shadowdog500]

I picked up my (barely) used Snap-on pickle fork off eBay for cheap. It looks like it's been used once or twice, but that's it.

I will get better pics of the Klann separator tomorrow, you can put different adapters on it for different cars and ball-joints.

Will Mr. Moose be showing us how to do ball joints? I saw a small stuffed moose at a store today and thought of spark plugs for some reason.

I also have a SO one that I bought off of a truck and it works fine for me, with a 40 oz ball peen hammer.

Chris

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Will Mr. Moose be showing us how to do ball joints? I saw a small stuffed moose at a store today and thought of spark plugs for some reason.

I will cover some ball-joint replacement next week. However, it is not press-in, it bolts to the wishbone and bolts to the hub.

(MK. IV Golf)

 

[Toolhorder]

Okay this morning a co-worker wanted to "borrow" my ball joint remover so I figured I would snap a couple of pictures. The vehicle in question is a Honda Odyssey newer body style. I think it was a 05 or 06 I can't remember. The lower control arm is Aluminum and the knuckle is steel. You don't want to hit the lower control arm with a hammer on this one.

Here's the same setup with the ball joint remover tool attached. You have to leave the castle nut on the ball joint's threaded stud and make it flush so you don't crush the threads. You twist the metal T shaped handle in the middle first to take up any slack between the bottom of the tool and the top part of the tool. Then you twist the outter nut on the threaded shaft to "press" the to halfs apart which breaks the ball joint from the knuckle.

After the ball joint is broke loose you can just pull it out of the knuckle. Now it's ready to come off the van and receive it's new wheel bearing.

 

[tonydanzah]

i really cant imagine you hitting the aluminum control arm would be anywhere near the type of force subjected on it by driving in a deep pothole. Or if you hit it with a large dead blow hammer.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I never put the nut back on. Never damaged treads either.

 

[Toolhorder]

i really cant imagine you hitting the aluminum control arm would be much more stress then the type of force subjected on it by driving in a deep pothole. Or if you hit it with a large dead blow hammer.

The suspension takes the abuse in a pothole though. The force is also up/down not sideways. The control arm isn't designed to take a blow from the side like that. You can knock the caster off easily if you hit it good enough. It's just not a good idea.

 

[Toolhorder]

I never put the nut back on. Never damaged treads either.

You must have got lucky then because if it's not flush with the tool shown above you get a mushroomed head on top of the threads. Maybe your tool is different or something. I leave the nut on when hitting it with a hammer tool. Always have. You don't want to have to fix threads when you're flat rate paid.

 

[quattrojon]

I have three separators, these are the two i use the most:

Franklin Ball-Joint Separator:

Klann Ball-Joint Separator:

I use the Franklin the most, but the Klann is built like the proverbial brick *********. They've never failed me and work flawlessly. The franklin is the same as the OTC branded ones. I'd also reccomend using a bungee chord with them, so when the joint pops they don't hit the ground.

I also have a Snap-on pickle fork, for the ball-joints where a separator won't work. Like BMW front wishbones, and B-Platform VAG cars. (Unless you buy the special Klann tool for them.)

I have the same Franklin splitter as you, i bought mine off the Mac tools man in the early nineties.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I have the same Franklin splitter as you, i bought mine off the Mac tools man in the early nineties.

Is it any different to the Trident one? I assume they're the same, there are a lot of identical looking ones out there. One difference is some have the rounded part of the slot polished. Mine doesn't.

It's had to put some real force on ratchets turning the pressure screw on really stuck ball-joint tapers, and it doesn't show any signs of wear.

Seems you can pay a lot or a little for what appears to be the same exact tool. I paid a little and i've never had a problem.