Best tool for removing welded tabs?

[ishiboo]

I am converting my Kubota to skid steer quick attach, and want to remove the two Kubota-style bucket tabs so I can weld on a new SSQA plate. These tabs are folded 1/4 (approx) steel in a "U" shape, welded on the outside of both sides with a full-length bead.

I have an O/A torch, but I've never done this kind of blind work before where there is no accessible or open "back" and I'd have to exchange the tanks. I'm thinking about using the plasma for gouging, but I've never had to do that either so I've never tried it.

How would you remove these tabs?

 

[OccupantRJ]

I am converting my Kubota to skid steer quick attach, and want to remove the two Kubota-style bucket tabs so I can weld on a new SSQA plate. These tabs are folded 1/4 (approx) steel in a "U" shape, welded on the outside of both sides with a full-length bead.

I have an O/A torch, but I've never done this kind of blind work before where there is no accessible or open "back" and I'd have to exchange the tanks. I'm thinking about using the plasma for gouging, but I've never had to do that either so I've never tried it.

How would you remove these tabs?

Thin blade on a grinder down both sides until one side has very little if any weld left. Drive a cold chisel under that side only until a lever bar can be used so that the bracket can be "hinged" off. Then grind bracket location smooth.

 

[hippie2cams]

you could grind the welds down close to the base metal and if you grind too far you can always weld a bead to build it back up , I personally would use a gouge tip and wash the weld out but that would mean a trip to welding supply but you need to do that anyway if you need gas.

 

[raddksn]

How big of welder do you have? Carbon arc/air gouge

 

[ishiboo]

How big of welder do you have? Carbon arc/air gouge

Enough amps but its a MIG (Millermatic 252), so thats out

You guys would pick that/gas that over the plasma gouging? Maybe I'll have it done.

Grinding 3 feet of welds doesn't sound fun but that's an option

 

[ishiboo]

Thin blade on a grinder down both sides until one side has very little if any weld left. Drive a cold chisel under that side only until a lever bar can be used so that the bracket can be "hinged" off. Then grind bracket location smooth.

Ugh, that sounds reasonable.

I hate grinding.

 

[1grnlwn]

Well if you would have started grinding about the time you posted this, you would have one side off. Grinding would be the cleanest, it is not fun, just do it!

 

[rsanter]

Use the plasma to cut off the legs of the U bracket.
Then take another pass with the plasma at a different angle to cot away at the top of the weld to ' thin it '. This is better then just pure gouging IMO
You can even take a third pass I'd needed.
With the weld weakned you can find a really weak point that you can start to drive a chisel under or you may have to grind a little to weaken it a little more to start breaking the weld

Bob

 

[raddksn]

Look up carbon arc gougeing on you tube there is a guy doing with a mig
Ps it dirty and loud but fast and effective

 

[erat]

9" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Ugh, that sounds reasonable.

I hate grinding.

Let us know how it all works out for you. Bet you grind way more than you think you are going to.

 

[steel 35]

Remove the bucket and build what you want, why destroy what you have? That is going to be a lot of work even with the carbon arc you don't have access too.

 

[ishiboo]

Remove the bucket and build what you want, why destroy what you have? That is going to be a lot of work even with the carbon arc you don't have access too.

Because a new bucket is $$$$ and the tabs are simply welded on? Removing them is what people always do when going to SSQA.

 

[driz]

Grinding goes a lot better (if there is room) when using a 7 or better 9" grinder. Much faster than using the usual 4" just hang on tight, they bite harder. Grinding isn't bad, just like welding try to get as comfortable as you can.

 

[dr_clyde]

Get a scarfing tip for your OA torch. Designed to cut off brackets flush. Minimal grinding afterwards.

 

[raddksn]

Just had a thought, can you use origanal mounts to attach the quick attachment

 

[ishiboo]

Just had a thought, can you use origanal mounts to attach the quick attachment

Yes... I'll be attempting to reuse them if they come off cleanly.

 

[raddksn]

My thinking is to mount the bucket side of the quick attach mount to existing tabs instead if removing them.

Fab something to work with origanal pins.

 

[ishiboo]

My thinking is to mount the bucket side of the quick attach mount to existing tabs instead if removing them.

Fab something to work with origanal pins.

Of course, that's the plan! Those tabs are useless other than going on the SSQA plates, no reason to fab new ones for no reason

The only reason I won't is if it takes too much out of them when removed, or if the bushings are too warn, as by the time I cut the existing bushings out and welded new ones in I could have simply made new ones.

Thanks guys. I'm going to see if I can find someone on Craigslist to grind them off

 

[raddksn]

I might not have been clear on my thinking, can this SSQA mount be attached TO existing tabs instead of cutting them off? By fabbing something on the bucket

 

[ishiboo]

I might not have been clear on my thinking, can this SSQA mount be attached TO existing tabs instead of cutting them off? By fabbing something on the bucket

Oh sorry. Gotcha.

Yes, a SSQA plate could be attached to the tabs, however that puts the bucket forward about 5" which lowers lift capacity, plus then I don't have the tabs to re-use for the loader-side of the SSQA. To do it right then I'd have to cut the tabs off of both sides, or build pin mounts on the SSQA.

There WAS a cheap SSQA bucket here a couple months ago in about the right size, I should have bought that.

 

[steel 35]

Because a new bucket is $$$$ and the tabs are simply welded on? Removing them is what people always do when going to SSQA.

Yes... I'll be attempting to reuse them if they come off cleanly.

My thinking is to mount the bucket side of the quick attach mount to existing tabs instead if removing them.

Fab something to work with origanal pins.

Yep I guess I am confused again sorry! For a minute I thought you were going to cut pieces off your bucket rendering it useless instead of just making a few flat plates with holes. good luck.

 

[raddksn]

Didn't realize capacity was critical. I just noticed your location, you should be able to find someone around there to handle that for you. Good luck and can't wait to see pic's when your done.

 

[AntiBling]

You need at least 300 amps to effectively carbon arc. Use your torch, weld some scraps and practice making the cuts if need be. Or like someone mentioned a scarfing tip, if you can find one.

https://scontent-a-sjc.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t31/p180x540/1402994_621054297937938_1706261916_o.jpg

Last one I started with, had a quick attach for a loader tractor that wouldn't work for skidsteer quick attaches.

After I torched.

https://scontent-b-sjc.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t31/p180x540/1404445_621054294604605_5114305_o.jpg

Cleaned up and plates welded on to make it flat for the backing plate to be welded on.

 

[1grnlwn]

So are you wanting to use other quick change attachments? Forks?

 

[ishiboo]

So are you wanting to use other quick change attachments? Forks?

Yes, I'd like to be able to switch stuff. I have a skid loader with snow bucket, snow plow, forks, etc. that would then be able to go right on. And more importantly, I want to build some new attachments that work with both. They are different sized machines so not everything will necessarily swap over and be useful on both.

 

[Joe69]

Another vote for the Carbon arc, but I have one. Otherwise, I would torch as close to the base metal as I could, then grind the rest. I hate grinding too!

BTW, I use a carbon arc on my Miller 250 Bobcat all the time.


Joe

 

[ibedayank]

300amps to carbon arc... tell that to the guys that use SA200 Lincolns

 

[D.J.]

Maybe I'm looking at the wrong piece but I think I would just find new pieces of "c" channel and weld hem to your plate.