best tool to remove broken stud.

[bowlofturtle]

I broke a 1/2 of a stud between the plenum and my manifold. There is about half and inch of stud, My first attack was vicegrips and to twist it out but all that did was round off/strip all the thread. A standard 10mm nut goes to the stud....

here is the shot.

I assume this stud is threaded in so i just can yank it out i have to twist it out. I dont have a lot of tools to handle this issue. So i'm looking to pick up a set.

this looks like something that might do the job, i need something right now, locally to handle this job.


This might be too big.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...21x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00904458000P

I have the basic set of this which my smallest is #3, so i dont know if #1 can grab it.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P?mv=rr

This looks like the size/tool to use..
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952168000P?mv=rr


what do you guys think...

 

[brian90505]

If Visegrips wouldn't turn it I doubt those little 1/4" Power Boltouts will. I'd use the stud remover

 

[wafrederick]

Do you have a Mig welder in your shop?Weld a nut on the broken stud,a little bit bigger than the stud.Heat the stud area up red hot and you can remove the stud this way.This method does work.

 

[s_ontario]

put a washer on then put a larger nutt on whats left of stud and weld put wrench on nutt turn out

 

[Scout Driver]

Do you have a Mig welder in your shop?Weld a nut on the broken stud,a little bit bigger than the stud.Heat the stud area up red hot and you can remove the stud this way.This method does work.

+1 on this method. Drop a big washer around the stud (as mentioned by s ontario) before welding on the nut. Best of luck to you.

Scott

 

[ChiffChiff]

Do you have a Mig welder in your shop?Weld a nut on the broken stud,a little bit bigger than the stud.Heat the stud area up red hot and you can remove the stud this way.This method does work.

Bingo, I usually heat the stud read hot then wiggle it loose with some vise grips. If its an area that you cant heat to that level (gaskets, wires, or lines near) than a stud remover might be your only hope.

Heat works 95% of the time though.

 

[bowlofturtle]

its in my garage. no access to welder and torch, nor do i know how to opeate such tools.

The threads are stripped, cant really use then anymore. At first i thought i could of of vice griped them off, but the vice grips just turn and spinning off the thread. the 10mm nut no long works on the stud..

you think this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...21x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00904458000P will work? says it can do 5/16 as the smallest. I have no clue what size the stud is, a 10mm nut went on it.

 

[Art From De Leon]

Vise-Grips are absolutely useless on something like that. The BEST tool that there is for removing a broken stud AFTER you heat it, is a 6" pipe wrench. It will not slip and chew the stud up like a pair of Vise Grips. and it will allow you to work the stud in both directions if the stud is stubborn.

Since you have NO access to a torch, rap it a couple of times on the top, and it should break the bond between the stud and the head.

 

[dualsub2006]

I have the middle set and it works perfectly every time I use it. I've seen our fleet mechanic weld a nut on broken studs on numerous occasions. Works every time, I just don't have a welder.

 

[reinhardt]

if ur not in a hurry to get it out, spray it w/ pb blaster, tap a couple times w/ a hammer. repeat every couple hours for a day or so. will help if it's rusty. i would probably try the second choice, the first probably is too big. i have the first and it works good for exhaust manifold studs, but u need a good amount of stud to grab.

when u put the ratchet on it, dont just pull as hard as u can. pull some tension on it, then smack the end of the ratchet handle w/ a hammer repeatedly. makes like an impact gun effect. follow me? also an effective method to break bolt loose to avoid snapping them off like that. i wish u luck.

ben

 

[jethro29]

i see two problems with all of the heating and welding suggestions, #1= the broken stud is next to the fuel pressure regulator and in between the fuel rails in very close quarters. #2=it screws into aluminum,not good.try tapping very hard on the bolt with a brass hammer and punch then try to remove it with small pipe wrench or a stud remover.

 

[1969]

My experience with a stud remover was not all that good. I ended up twisting the stud off down next to the metal in which it was threaded. Had I used a torch before doing so, I probably would have had better luck. JMO

 

[Scout Driver]

you think this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...21x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00904458000P will work? says it can do 5/16 as the smallest. I have no clue what size the stud is, a 10mm nut went on it.

If this stud remover is the proper size for your application, go for it. And... like Art posted, rap on the stud a few times to rattle it loose. Some good penetrating oil probably wont' help a lot, but I'd give it a shot of PB Blaster or equivalent and let it soak for a bit before using the stud remover.

Scott

 

[e10]

Maybe try using a mapp gas torch to heat it,they are relatively cheap and are a lot hotter than propane.

 

[ourkid2000]

This may be of help:

 

[Stephenw]

Get a Bernzomatic Oxy/Mapp torch kit for about $70. Heat the stud until it is a dull red hot. When the stud cools a bit, spray it with PB Blaster. You want the stud hot, but not hot enough to ignite the PB Blaster. Allow the stud to cool to the touch and remove it with vise grips.

If you're strapped for cash, just get a cheap propane torch. It will take longer to get the stud hot, and you'll never get it red hot, but it may still do the job.

 

[bowlofturtle]

i see two problems with all of the heating and welding suggestions, #1= the broken stud is next to the fuel pressure regulator and in between the fuel rails in very close quarters.

Get a Bernzomatic Oxy/Mapp torch kit for about $70. Heat the stud until it is a dull red hot. When the stud cools a bit, spray it with PB Blaster. You want the stud hot, but not hot enough to ignite the PB Blaster. Allow the stud to cool to the touch and remove it with vise grips.

If you're strapped for cash, just get a cheap propane torch. It will take longer to get the stud hot, and you'll never get it red hot, but it may still do the job.

not too sure if i want to play that game...

I soaked it in "break away" looks like PB blaster. tomorrow i'm going out to sears to pick up the boltout kit and the stud extractor, hopefully this will get the job done. Otherwise i'm F-ed

 

[00S4Boy]

http://www.tooltopia.com/assenmacher-203.aspx

 

[Spareparts]

Pull the manifold and take it to a machine shop. cheaper than buying $70 to $100 worth of tools and maybe not getting it out. I have used the welded nut route with great sucess but I have the tools in my shop.

 

[Bolster]

Does welding a nut not work for an oxy/acet setup? That's all I have, no tig, no mig.

 

[wafrederick]

Mig works better with the nut method.

 

[Stephenw]

Does welding a nut not work for an oxy/acet setup? That's all I have, no tig, no mig.

You can gas weld a nut onto a stud. You could also braze it and keep the heat down. You must be careful of where the heat from the flame is also going. You get the nut attached and the added bonus of the heat causing expansion and contraction (as the stud cools) to break the seizure.

 

[bowlofturtle]

Why make this so complicated someone already mention the best tool for the job if the bolt isn’t seized which is a small pipe wrench. How the bolt got broken to begin with will tell a lot. If the bolt is seized and snapped off removing it you are going to need the map gas and something such as a pipe wrench.

I'm also picking up a pipe wrench at sears along with the other stuff.

The bolt snapped off when i was installing the plenum back on. FSM stated 100inch lbs. I set my torque wrench to 40 and then 80 and went for the final 100in lb and snapped off. It was the 2nd to last nut as well... =(

 

[ImportTuner]

its in my garage. no access to welder and torch, nor do i know how to opeate such tools.

The threads are stripped, cant really use then anymore. At first i thought i could of of vice griped them off, but the vice grips just turn and spinning off the thread. the 10mm nut no long works on the stud..

you think this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...21x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00904458000P will work? says it can do 5/16 as the smallest. I have no clue what size the stud is, a 10mm nut went on it.

Yep, it works .. soak the area with Kroil (maybe overnight) and try that bolt remover ..

 

[bowlofturtle]

Yep, it works .. soak the area with Kroil (maybe overnight) and try that bolt remover ..

its not the tool works or not. its if it the tool can grab on to much smaller stud. I've seen someone use that on exhaust manifold stud which are bigger and held by like 12-14mm

this stud is held by a 10mm nut so 5/16 might not grip it.

 

[srmofo]

http://www.tooltopia.com/assenmacher-203.aspx

Theres no reason to not use a stud remover on it. Heat is going to be an issue because it appears its right between to fuel lines. The trick with the stud removers is to get them locked onto the stud, then give it a good solid rap with a hammer to free it. Vice grips will just destroy it further.

If it snaps then it has to be drilled out, hopefully you can get to it, if not then its coming off. Machine shop is going to charge the same either way, unless it comes out easily without drilling, so why not use the right tool for the job.

 

[jimmycrackcorn]

its not the tool works or not. its if it the tool can grab on to much smaller stud. I've seen someone use that on exhaust manifold stud which are bigger and held by like 12-14mm

this stud is held by a 10mm nut so 5/16 might not grip it.

Well if the size of the nut used to remove it is 10mm, then its 6mm stud. Heat would free it up. But without heat involved, i would soak it with a good penetrant oil (not WD40) let it sit and then hit it again. Then tap on the stud with a 8oz ball-pean. Work it back an forth with a small pipe wrench. Vice grips can work only if the jaws are sharp. You don't want to try to make a full turn right away, you'll ether snap it flush, shave it thin. Just work it back and forth, tap with the hammer and spray.

 

[MechanicNamedJohn]

Both of these have worked really well for me.

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-sae-bolt-extractor-sockets-96334.html

They have metric and sae.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-stud-extractor-94640.html

If you have the room, this works the best.

Also heating up around the stud helps, and I would recommend doing so "provided the fuel/fumes are contained in the fuel rail." I prefer MapPro vs propane.

 

[MrMark]

Why make this so complicated someone already mention the best tool for the job if the bolt isn’t seized which is a small pipe wrench. How the bolt got broken to begin with will tell a lot. If the bolt is seized and snapped off removing it you are going to need the map gas and something such as a pipe wrench.

I agree. I bet you could even get that out with Knipex Cobra's. They bite anything with a ferocious grip. Small Pipe Wrench or the Cobra's, whatever will get in there. I would be VERY wary of putting a torch in there. Actually, I would just take the manifold off before I would get a torch involved. The torch is a destroyer.3

This stud is not frozen because of rust - he just snapped it off by tightening too much or the bolt was fatigued and gave way. It should come right out if he gets a decent grip on it. The teeth on the Vise Grips are not good enough and he learned that the hard way.

Anything will get it out easy enough. Cobra's, Pipe Wrench or the stud removers.

 

[rodm1]

If you have threads you could try. Bahco makes one very close for lease.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1247&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[pmohr]

Looks like a VQ35 in a G, correct?

You should really just yank the fuel rails out of the way and remove the LIM and work on it on the bench, things will be easier. Only a half dozen bolts from the point you're at, and the LIM gaskets tend to be reusable.

Haven't looked one of those over in a while now, but the studs should just be threaded in. Like most other studs, they more than likely had the tiny E4 torx head on them for removal/installation.

 

[mrholeshot]

Hit it all around with Freeze-Off (by CRC) penatrant. It wil make the area expand and contract breaking loose rust, corosion and allow the penatrant to get in there. Then take a pair of vise grips and turn it out. Extreme cold works like extreme heat. In a spot like this I wouldn't use a torch. bach years ago we would have sprak plus siezed in VW heads. A quick shot of CO2 from a fire extinguisher and they came right out.

 

[Stephenw]

This stud is not frozen because of rust - he just snapped it off by tightening too much or the bolt was fatigued and gave way. It should come right out if he gets a decent grip on it. The teeth on the Vise Grips are not good enough and he learned that the hard way.

Anything will get it out easy enough. Cobra's, Pipe Wrench or the stud removers.

If the stud wasn't seized, the vise grips wouldn't have peeled all the threads off. The stud would have come out.

 

[impulse922]

i had a success the one time i had to use a stud remover.. (the one like the sears link)

 

[bowlofturtle]

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...&storeOpenDayInd=today&blockNo=4&blockType=G4

this was the winner. size #1 worked great. There was a size 0 as well. All the other tools had a starting size of 5/16. which didn't come close. a couple of taps and some more break away sprayed on and it came out within seconds.

yes its a VQ35 in my G. The stud was $26 and speical order part, instead i just bought a bolt and added some spacers and installed it that way. No air leaks right now.

 

[pmohr]

yes its a VQ35 in my G. The stud was $26 and speical order part, instead i just bought a bolt and added some spacers and installed it that way. No air leaks right now.

Plenum spacer install gone wrong?

I think the only differentiation between a Z and a G that could be drawn from that picture is that a Z doesn't have the firewall insulation. Took a guess, glad I was correct; haven't forgotten as much about them as I thought I had, I guess.

 

[BWright]

I've always found a 6 inch pipe wrench to be the best tool for the job in instances like this.

 

[bowlofturtle]

Plenum spacer install gone wrong?

I think the only differentiation between a Z and a G that could be drawn from that picture is that a Z doesn't have the firewall insulation. Took a guess, glad I was correct; haven't forgotten as much about them as I thought I had, I guess.

yep the stud snapped at 80 in/lbs no FREAKING idea how and a bolt snapped as well. The bolt i extracted out easily. those bolts **** as i read on the forums, think like one out of 7 installs have them snap...

 

[rockchucker]

I use those Bolt-Outs from Sears on anything like that. I found them when I had Stripped out a Head Bolt on my Toy V-6 P/U. I thought I was screwed. Bolt-Outs took it out in a second.


My Machine Shop Dude would have said Heat and Wax though! lol


Absolutely love Aero-Kroil for Penetrating Oil though! Good stuff!

 

[Wanna Ride]

Vise-Grips are absolutely useless on something like that. The BEST tool that there is for removing a broken stud AFTER you heat it, is a 6" pipe wrench. It will not slip and chew the stud up like a pair of Vise Grips. and it will allow you to work the stud in both directions if the stud is stubborn.

Since you have NO access to a torch, rap it a couple of times on the top, and it should break the bond between the stud and the head.

Agreed. It looks like you have very little room here. The stud remover is a good tool, but not really effective in limited access areas. Pre-soak it down with a good penetrating oil, that never hurts.