Get a small (8"?) pipe wrench for stubborn inner tie rod ends, especially those that don't have flats for a wrench or in some cases nothing at all (eg Jeep Liberties). A good vise grip comes in handy too but if you have to release them and clamp down multiple times, as tight as you can, it's just easier to use the pipe wrench. You might also want to get a huge one for adjusting Cherokees.
Like Seanbev said, wrench sizes should go up to 27mm to cover everything. I can't think of a 23mm off the top of my head but I know I use them. 25mm should actually be a 1", and is needed for a variety of full-size GM sedans with the turnbuckle-styled toe adjusters in the rear. 26mm is for front toe on Envoys/Trailblazers, and 27mm you'll see on some Toyota trucks for both tie rod jam nuts and cam bolts without the room for even a shallow socket. If you can borrow tools here and there, you probably don't need to go past 22mm.
I'd actually disagree with longer=better with wrenches, but in most cases you won't have much of a choice anyway. You've got the vehicle on a drive-on lift so there'll be plenty of times when that 14" long 22mm can't turn much before hitting the rack or the wheel well. In a perfect world I'd actually swap out my large wrenches with large 1/2" drive crowsfeet, a 6" extension, and a long-handled ratchet or breaker bar.
Probably the most popular "specialty" tool you'll need would be toe hooks, for turning adjusting sleeves without using a pipe wrench which can damage the sleeve.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-tie-rod-pitman-arm-adjustment-set-66796.html
I dunno how rust is in your neck of the woods, but around here if the car's more than 10 years old I'm probably going to need a torch and/or an air hammer to get parts loose. A little vibration with a flat bit on a jam nut or the edge of the outer tie rod end can sometimes free up an inner that seemed impossible to move 10 seconds earlier. If vibration won't do it, then heat's needed. Acetylene's the best, but if your shop doesn't have it I'd strongly suggest a propylene gas torch over straight propane. Propylene takes forever to heat stuff up as it is. Keep in mind that heat will change the readings before you even turn anything, so you'll need a water bottle to spritz the parts, and even after a thorough drenching they'll still be warmer and longer than normal. (Read: heat is a last resort)
A carbide grinding bit in a (preferably right-angle) die grinder can be very useful in slotting lower strut mounts to adjust camber. Along those lines, a decent 1/2" drive impact swivel is a must, as well as impact sockets up to 27mm in both deep and shallow for taking out lower strut mount bolts.
Pry-bars are a necessity for checking lower ball joints pre-alignment, as well as doing those wonderful slotted control arm adjustments, like front camber/caster on Envoys/Trailblazers or rear toe on Saturns.
Last, I'd suggest getting a hat. Your head's going to brush up against a lot of oil pans.
