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Best, toughtest, most durable spray paint?

Vinko

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What in your experience is the most durable and toughest spray enamel you've ever used on sheet metal? I was thinking of trying the Wurth stuff.
I assume it's made in Germany, but maybe not.

I've heard good things about dutch paint, but not in spray cans, though I suppsoe that's possible too.


I wonder if the spray cans from SO are good (they're certainly a little costly). Anyone know who they're OEM source is or do they make it and package it themselves?


I use Sherwin-Williams stuff and tall sivler cans of Rustoleum Pro right now. I like their high gloss enamel black. Was tempted to try some of their hi-temp paints not because the metal I'm painting will be near heat, but just because I wondered if it were a tougher paint all around:headscrat

Thanks for your suggestions, fellas.
 
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38Chevy454

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A lot of cheaper rattle can paint is lacquer, which will be more brittle than enamel. I think any enamel is better for toughness, just look carefully at the can to see which it is.

I don't have any brilliant suggestions for brands.
 

idunnosh#t

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RUST-OLEUM ENAMEL shot from a spray gun.My Son and I Rolled a pick-up 2 3/4 times then slid on it's side a ways down a gravel road.Long story I won't go into at this time but now I know what a grasshopper in a beer can must feel like.The paint on the flat bed held up amazingly well.Can,t say the same about my *** .Thank God ,my son wasn't hurt or killed.
 

Rigmaster

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I used the Wurth Silver laquer wheel paint in spray cans on several sets of aluminum wheels a couple of years ago and it was amazing. I initially balked at paying ~$15-18 per can of paint, but it was well worth it!

I've heard that they re-formulated it in the last couple of years to make it more eco-friendly, so I don't know if it's still as good as it was.


I used 2 cans to re-spray 4 15" aluminum wheels and had some left over. That stuff is amazing!!
 

Jay H 237

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Auto paint suppliers can put some DuPont and PPG type paints in spray cans for you too. The place by me charges $22 for a can.


As for 'off the shelf' paints, I would say the Rustoleum professional series like mentioned before. It has held up the best, including the electrical meter box on the side of the house I repainted back in '03 with a fresh coat of gray and it still looks like new. The original paint on the box was chalky and had surface rust starting. I wire brushed most of teh rust and wiped it down with laquer thinner. Then masked the house off and meter globe and sprayed it.
 

Rory Bellows

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I like using tractor and implement paint from Tractor Supply. It is very durable paint. I have many vises and work tables painted with it and it holds up very well. They have a nice selection of colors too. All the big name Tractor colors as well as Ford colors and your basic color line.
 

recklessnova

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I have had good luck the past with the rustolum stuff but I powdercoat everything now that will fit in the oven (60x32x24) mucho bettero then paint
4wiw
 

StumpFJ40

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DEM-KOTE from Grainger... It is the Sh*t. I was introduced to it in Canada. It dries fast and hard.

Cheers-
-Stump
 

jeepjunky

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We use NASSEN sp? at the body shop, We use it primarily on semi truck frames and such. Should be able to find it at a auto paint supply store
 

KEITHMAN

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I'vr been usin' VHT paints for years. The epoxy paint is really tough. Takes a little to dry tho'. Their engine enamel is good too. Their header paint of course works well.
 

Number22

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I've given up on rattle cans entirely. I bought a small "touch up" HVLP spray gun and mix my own. You can buy pretty much anything you can in a spray can, in a quart or half pint...and thin as desired. The paint is much cheaper this way too.
 

ddawg16

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RUST-OLEUM ENAMEL shot from a spray gun.My Son and I Rolled a pick-up 2 3/4 times then slid on it's side a ways down a gravel road.Long story I won't go into at this time but now I know what a grasshopper in a beer can must feel like.The paint on the flat bed held up amazingly well.Can,t say the same about my *** .Thank God ,my son wasn't hurt or killed.

X1.....

A little trick I learned....warm the paint up, then you don't have to thin it....works great for small jobs out of a VLP gun.
 

OccupantRJ

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I needed to paint a couple of old flourescent fixtures last week and looked in my cabinet to see what I had around. Found a couple of cans of Dutch Boy acrylic enamel that had to be at least 5 years old, shook it well, and painted away. I was impressed with the finish it produced! They looked like factory new lights, and the paint flowed out great. The cans had the fan spray type nozzles on them, and I will be buying more, as soon as I find a local store with it. Walmart here sells Dutch Boy paints, but doesn't have it in spray cans.:wtf:
 

Joe69

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The best rattle can paint I have ever used is Caterpillar's. It covers amazingly well and is very durable, even outdoors. The downside is the limited color selection.

Joe
 

krooser

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I inhertited a bunch of tools and "stuff" from my father-in-law last May.... I found a can of Rustoleum dated 1989.... painted some wheels last week with it and they look pretty good!!!!
 

Daniel Dudley

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I think that a lot of the toughness and durability of spray paint is in the prep, and ultimately in the film thickness. I typically want a couple more coats than what just looks good.
 

79BlackPearl

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Without a doubt, VALSPAR Tractor and Implement paint from Tractor Supply. I use it quite a bit on Jeep parts that I want to last, and it does. A little limited on colors, but it works!!!
 
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scooby074

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As mentioned Dem-Kote is good and cheap too. I understand its just rebranded Rustoleum.

Massey tractor implement paint is good too. Either in the spray or quart. I think its Valspar.
 

idunnosh#t

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X1.....

A little trick I learned....warm the paint up, then you don't have to thin it....works great for small jobs out of a VLP gun.

Good Idea...I just had an old Binks gun at the time,but I think it called for acetone as the thinner. I don't remember for sure.I used RUST-OLEUM PRIMER also.It's definitely cheaper than spray cans and a person could pay for some cheaper VLP guns in a hurry.Anyway, it gets my vote but:yikes: I don't recomend using a car wreck as a paint test method.
 

mrb

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have you tried the seymour paint? Their MRO line has a high solids content and is pretty good. Do you buy from IMS? They stock it.
 

dankeenan

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I use SEM paints. They have some pretty tough paint, I use chip guard for bumpers and such stays on really good, but has a textured finish. They also have a really good self etching primer.
 

darkk

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If you're looking for silver, then Stainless Steel Hi-Temp Coating from Eastwood is the baddest **** on the planet. Comes in spray cans and in regular cans. I've used it from the can with a spray gun for Cast Iron manifolds and it doesn't even turn colors. If you want colors, then most enamel sprays are about the same.
 

Voi

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What in your experience is the most durable and toughest spray enamel you've ever used on sheet metal?

[EDIT] Just replied to a four year old+ post.

I've never used it but there is a 2K post-catalyzed rattle can spray paint that has been discussed on this forum before. I can't imagine there would be anything tougher. I do not know how user friendly or expensive it is.

If somebody doesn't chime in with the brand I'll look it up and post back later.
 

Wisable1951

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Fuji 2903-T70 Mini-Mite 3-T70 HLVP Spray System is the best paint sprayer brand known to me so far.. It is portable and easy to transport. I have just buy my mini-mite 3 few months back and refinished an antique bed. Turned out great. Easy to use, adjust and clean. Be sure to properly thin your material and do test sprays. Seems to be a solid unit at this point and will update after more projects.
 
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Hammer1963

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I have had good look with Seymour and SEM for auto restoration on small parts. I also highly recommend Wurth.
 

dougf

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Missouri
For maximum hardness they sell 2K in a can now. Snap the bottom to activate the hardener, can is good for about 48 hours. Otherwise, Rustoleum Professional has held up really well for me. I usually clean all the rust off with a wire wheel, convert with Loctite Rust Converter, prime with Rustoleum Professional Primer, then topcoat with Rustoleum Professional. Works great.
 

birmingham

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Rustoleum Professional, Painted the hood on my van with it, its white so its a match scraped the entire thing, sanded primed and painted, 9 very light coats looks factory and has for 2 years, and 40000 miles. lot better then the factory paint did.
 

ishiboo

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Rustoleum works great but it's always much softer than if you did a 2-part finish with an enamel hardener.

dougf - what brand do you recommend? I found 2-part at Eastwood but it doesn't get very good reviews.

I'd like to HVLP stuff but every time I have to clean the gun I realize it's a lot of work. The best option may be to simply buy the HF guns and throw them away when you're done, if your project is any bigger than 3-4 rattle cans worth it probably breaks even for a better finish?
 

Squankum

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I'll also chime in and say that Wurth has impressed me.

I put an aluminum pedal cover on my car's gas pedal about 20 years ago -- not for ricey purposes, done for actual heel & toe purposes -- and I spray painted it flat black with a Wurth spray can. (Not just to eliminate riciness, but also, I was in Stock class at the time, and...)

It took a long danged time, and about 180K miles, for that paint to wear off significantly. And I didn't even know about primer at that age.

I just resprayed it again with the last remnants of that same Wurth can a few months ago, and it's still looking great. I will admit that gas pedals don't get hard usage, but it sure is constant, and there's some dirt involved. I am impressed.

Except the price is stupid. Germany. You know.
 

creativecars

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Rustoleum works great but it's always much softer than if you did a 2-part finish with an enamel hardener.

dougf - what brand do you recommend? I found 2-part at Eastwood but it doesn't get very good reviews.

I'd like to HVLP stuff but every time I have to clean the gun I realize it's a lot of work. The best option may be to simply buy the HF guns and throw them away when you're done, if your project is any bigger than 3-4 rattle cans worth it probably breaks even for a better finish?

Many of us have been successful with using Rustoleum and adding a catalyst. I am a year and a half in on a trailer and hitch. It still looks good and is out in the elements. Dried hard and faster with the catalyst.
 

ishiboo

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Many of us have been successful with using Rustoleum and adding a catalyst. I am a year and a half in on a trailer and hitch. It still looks good and is out in the elements. Dried hard and faster with the catalyst.

Of course, that's what I said. The question though is if it's doable and financially makes sense to do with spray bombs. The difference in the cost of the catalyst paint ($25 a can from Eastwood) to the regular stuff ($5 a can) is enough to pay for a quart of Rustoleum pro enamel and a HF spray gun. Add another ~$10 for the hardener.
 
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