I'm getting ready to build a 24x24 post frame garage and I need to level the ground. I have a sub compact 2370 Kubota 2370 with a loader and the ground is a foot high at the high point(front corner) the back two corners are level with each other and the other front is 6" lower than the high corner. My plan is to remove the topsoil and level the ground. I know a small tractor will take longer than a bobcat but I already have the tractor so I'm going to use it. Would a box scraper or back blade work? I was also considering a middle buster to break up the soil then a back blade to pull it out. I need to scrape off the topsoil and level as much as possible. There are no obstacles in the way its just open yard without stumps or roots. Suggestions?
Best tractor implement for leveling ground?
- Thread starter Jay13
- Start date
readhead
Well-known member
You should be able to do most of it with the loader. A box blade will make it a lot easier to level out the site and be useful for maintaining roads and driveways.
Radix2
Well-known member
box blade, get one with removable teeth to break up the soil
Tscott
Well-known member
Check these out. I've been considering buying one for a while now.
https://www.everythingattachments.c...lane-Utility-Grader-p/eta-land-leveler-v2.htm
Tom
https://www.everythingattachments.c...lane-Utility-Grader-p/eta-land-leveler-v2.htm
Tom
matt_i
Well-known member
I would also recommend the box blade. Just chisel away slowly until you get the desired result. The teeth do help if its too hard. Typically you don't want to go too deep and uncompact soil that you want to build on, so after you get started the teeth can come out.
cre73
Well-known member
Yep box blade used one to do my pool site. Went well, now if I just would of used a better level or a transit it would of been better.
ishiboo
Well-known member
Definitely a box blade... they are made to move material. Much more work and harder on the tractor with a loader. A rear blade would take a long time unless you got sides for it, and then you pretty much have a box blade. 
kwschumm
Well-known member
Box scraper, but there is a learning curve to level out land. Best results I've had is by doing a "creeping figure eight" pattern.
ishiboo
Well-known member
It all depends on how you use it. If you put the rippers all the way down and expect to pull up rock hard clay, it's not going to happen. But you should be able to pull a 5' blade of topsoil no problem, you may just have to dig it up a bit more slowly.
But you should be able to pull a 5' blade of topsoil no problem, you may just have to dig it up a bit more slowly.readhead
Well-known member
I have a BX25D and I use the box blade all summer to maintain our shed lot. I have a 5' box and have no trouble pulling it around even with the rippers down. I did add some weight to it because it tended to bounce some.
ejkuhl
Well-known member
I would not recommend this for "moving" dirt. It is good for leveling dirt and the best implement for maintaining driveways. I have the land pride version with adjustable depth teeth and blades. http://www.landpride.com/products/82/gs15-series-grading-scrapers
I have the DR super lightweight version. It works fine on gravel driveway.
I also have an odd
Triple flip
Gannon.
Blade on one side
Flip it to rippers and a blade.
Flip it again to a back blade.
I like the little DR unit. Golf cart or atv can pull it. It has a 12v power ram to lift it off the ground and adjust height from your seat. It has a little chain link type drag behind it. It's capable of the work, but is more of a polisher than a hoss.
100 bucks at a yard sale, with a good battery....
Dave Cav
Member
Box blade. They don't work very well in tight quarters or with soil with big rocks, and there is a good learning curve, but it'll work.
ard
Well-known member
Plan is to level it, dig the holes and build the garage then add fill, and gravel and compact every 4" cement at a later time.
ishiboo
Well-known member
I much prefer a Harley rake for maintaining driveways... but the LPGS is the next best thing for that particular use.
JerryB
Well-known member
I have a Kubota B7100 I bought in the early 1970s. Smaller than your machine. I have a loader, box scraper (with adjustable rippers), grader blade, PTO mower, hydraulic backhoe, and landscape rake.
Best dirt moving tool is the box scraper as others have written. I have leveled pads where we had to move 5 to 10 feet of dirt. Just takes a little longer with a small machine.
The grader blade works for finished driveway re-grading, but tends to dig in when used as an earth mover on this lightweight machine. Hydraulics are pretty sudden, so not much feathering.
Not so with the box scraper.
Best dirt moving tool is the box scraper as others have written. I have leveled pads where we had to move 5 to 10 feet of dirt. Just takes a little longer with a small machine.
The grader blade works for finished driveway re-grading, but tends to dig in when used as an earth mover on this lightweight machine. Hydraulics are pretty sudden, so not much feathering.
Not so with the box scraper.
rburke65
Well-known member
Box scrapper. And the loader is just that....not meant to be digging with it.
As said a box scraper with scarifier teeth. Use this to loosen and pile the material, then scoop it up with the FEL and move it where you want it. Dragging long distances is not my preferred way to move dirt or gravel.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
ghlkal
Well-known member
A Land Leveler or Land Plane is for smoothing out property. It removes material from the high spots and drops it in low spots. Good at what it is intended for but not for excavating like the OP wants to do.
lg
no neat sig line
Captain Spaulding
Well-known member
It's usually easiest and best to level after construction. You can knock down a high spot that is completely within the outline of the building, but you shouldn't do anything that leaves soil you've moved in or around the building.
slackdaddy1
Well-known member
"Cutting down the high end" is NEVER a good idea when preparing a site for a building, or is "pushing top soil around".
Remove the top soil layer and stock pile,
Bring in and compact fill to level your building footprint, creating a positive slope away from the building on all 4 sides.
This is something you can not go back and fix after the fact.
Nick
Remove the top soil layer and stock pile,
Bring in and compact fill to level your building footprint, creating a positive slope away from the building on all 4 sides.
This is something you can not go back and fix after the fact.
Nick
readhead
Well-known member
Never is a strong word. What if you have a good level entry point to the new garage but there is a hump about two feet high at the right rear corner? You would build up the entire pad two feet and ramp up into the garage?
This situation is fairly common and can be dealt with a few ways. A retaining wall can be built as part of the foundation to contain the soil and provide a drainage path or the soil can be excavated back several feet and contoured to provide a drainage path.
Depending on the condition of the soil that is removed it may or may not be suitable as fill material. In that case some structural fill may need to be imported.
This situation is fairly common and can be dealt with a few ways. A retaining wall can be built as part of the foundation to contain the soil and provide a drainage path or the soil can be excavated back several feet and contoured to provide a drainage path.
Depending on the condition of the soil that is removed it may or may not be suitable as fill material. In that case some structural fill may need to be imported.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
A straight blade that you can angle one way or the other beats a box blade for leveling dirt that is already loose. A box blade is better for digging and moving dirt. Straight blade acts more like a grader.
ishiboo
Well-known member
I would have to completely disagree. The only thing I use my rear blade for (other than snow) is cutting a ditch. All leveling tasks go to the box blade.
TractorJeff
Well-known member
I agree with ishiboo!
What I can level with my 3 point blade can be done even faster and better with a box blade! You need those runners on the box to carry it as the front of your tractor going up and down over the irregularities will transmit back to the blade!
What I can level with my 3 point blade can be done even faster and better with a box blade! You need those runners on the box to carry it as the front of your tractor going up and down over the irregularities will transmit back to the blade!
readhead
Well-known member
They have their place but a box blade will out work a three point blade all day long for grading.
I did a 24' x 24' area for a guy a couple weekends ago. He was putting in his own garage, and one corner of the area needed to be about 2' lower. I ripped it with my Kubota B3200 & 5' box blade with the cutting teeth all the way down. It took a bit to rip it, but once I made some passes on it, it worked fine and he was happy.
Once you rip the soil with the teeth, shorten the top link to increase the front cutting edge angle. Raise the teeth all the way up, and then you can scoop/cut with the box blade. I also used the loader some. I spent 3 hours doing the area, FWIW.
Once you rip the soil with the teeth, shorten the top link to increase the front cutting edge angle. Raise the teeth all the way up, and then you can scoop/cut with the box blade. I also used the loader some. I spent 3 hours doing the area, FWIW.
slackdaddy1
Well-known member
Ok 99.9% of the time
I agree, if you have a flat lot, with the area of the proposed structure naturally raised up from the surrounding area AND you have this "Odd hump" that needs to be cut down.
You should ALWAYS "perch" your foundation a foot or so out of the surrounding ground (Or more) , then use the excess (or truck in dirt) to slope away from the foundation.
I have yet to see a situation where "pushing the existing dirt around" makes an ideal site, besides you have to strip the top soil off first.
I have made a REALLY Good living the last 24 years doing workarounds too houses with water/grading issues. 90% of the time if the builder had run one more course of block on the foundation, there would be no problem.
Don't cut corner/dollars on your foundation, raise the building and bring dirt in if you have to.
Nick
I agree, if you have a flat lot, with the area of the proposed structure naturally raised up from the surrounding area AND you have this "Odd hump" that needs to be cut down.
You should ALWAYS "perch" your foundation a foot or so out of the surrounding ground (Or more) , then use the excess (or truck in dirt) to slope away from the foundation.
I have yet to see a situation where "pushing the existing dirt around" makes an ideal site, besides you have to strip the top soil off first.
I have made a REALLY Good living the last 24 years doing workarounds too houses with water/grading issues. 90% of the time if the builder had run one more course of block on the foundation, there would be no problem.
Don't cut corner/dollars on your foundation, raise the building and bring dirt in if you have to.
Nick