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Best value sockets?

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BlakeTheCarGuy

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I personally don’t know of a bad socket manufacturer these days. As a professional mechanic I buy whatever brand works. I’ve got in my boxes at home and work brands like Husky, Craftsman USA, Craftsman China, Craftsman Taiwan, Capri, Tekton, Duralast, Power Torque, DieHard, Carlyle, Pittsburgh, Snap-on, Mac and Matco. They all work well and get the job done. If I started today it would mostly be Duralast and Tekton and Capri that I would buy. Husky and Duralast are both the same company and both are good I just prefer shopping at AutoZone instead of Home Depot.
 

rust in the eye

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That HD socket set is comprehensive, more so than you are likely to need. High piece count doesn't equate to value or usefulness.
The Tractor Supply set Knurled Nut posted is a well thought out assortment and nicely packaged. Given, the piece count here high with lots of hex keys and bits but a more useful socket assortment.
I can't speak to quality of VietNam made tools but as has been said here over and over today's cheap tools are far better than those of old.
 
Last edited:

seber

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Deep East Tx.
I now have four sets of metric sockets due to strange happenings. My original SKs have lasted more than 50 years. But suddenly I have Koken Zeal, Snap-on shallow and Icon shallow. The latter three all new. If I were buying just one to replace the old SK set, it would be the Koken, no contest. In fact, that is how I came about to have them. The others were super cheap estate sale items. But both of the others are more than good enough.
 

mike93lx

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I have been wrenching non-professionally for over forty years and have broken like two chrome sockets in all that time. What are people doing that they worry so much about the warranty? I'm finicky so I look at stuff like the broaching etc. Socket-wise I have all USA - mostly older Craftsman - except for some recent Japanese Z-Series Koken. If I was buying Taiwanese I'd go Tekton or Icon. Icon because you can walk in and buy it. Tekton because of outstanding customer service and the rebates. I don't have one Chinese hand tool. I do have a couple of Taiwanese ratcheting wrenches though.

James
Its just an excuse to worry and act like they care.
 

tiredoldironworker

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Jun 14, 2024
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I bought the TSC set a couple of years ago for $99 on Black Friday. Good assortment with an awesome box. I really like it.
 

sz0k30

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I'd consider Harbor Freight's Quinn lineup. Here is an example:

This set is on sale, but even if it wasn't, it would still be less then $1 a socket and includes a lifetime warranty. How many stores does HFT have now? 1500+?
Guys probably don't want to hear it, but Harbor Freight has become the old Sears (Craftsman). A store in every city, lifetime warrantees, don't have to wait for a tool truck to roll around, reasonably priced. What more could you want?
 

bonneyman

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I'd consider Harbor Freight's Quinn lineup. Here is an example:


This set is on sale, but even if it wasn't, it would still be less then $1 a socket and includes a lifetime warranty. How many stores does HFT have now? 1500+? They also offer impact sockets for about $2 a socket in 3/8th and 1/2" drive.

I'm a HUGE tool snob and I have all the big names, but these days, If I was recommending sets based on value alone, it would be Quinn.
Make that 1501. Harbor Freight is opening up a new location in an old Walgreens drug store location about 5 minutes from the house.

Me thinks I'll be buying more from HF. :giggle:
 

AEAdam

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Like all GJ it ”best value” really depends on what you are doing.

Bear with me: I had a tough day yesterday, changing front brakes on my 2WD F150. This is a job I should have been able to do in 45 minutes.

I was doing it because the brake pads were needed to pass PA inspection, and I knew the rotors were warped. Pads could have been cheap at my local service center, but rotors wouldn’t have been.

So for less than $200 in parts, I could do a job, let’s say in an hour, and save easily $2-$300. Worth it, right?

1) I had trouble getting the old rotors off.

2) The pads I bought simply didn’t work. I struggled to install them, and they were locked in and had to be replaced. It was a part quality issue and a HUGE waste of time. I thought my calipers were seized.

3) To remove the rotors, you need to remove the brake caliper bracket, which attaches to the back side of the wheel with 2 21mm headed bolts. Torque spec is 185ftlbs and I don’t see how I could have gotten an impact gun on them. With rust, they were significantly tighter than that.

End of story, it was all darned day fixing this truck to save a couple hundred bucks. I used a BUNCH of “silver bullet“ tools, Snap On ratchets especially the SHLF80 for those caliper carrier bolts. And they were TIGHT. Snap On sockets, I was pulling on with all my might..

Had one of those sockets slipped and rounded a bolt head, a day job could have turned into a weekend. I was bent over on my brake creeper seat, 61 yrs old, all day long. My back is hurting this morning.

How much patience do you have for “best value“ sockets? Seriously, if I used my socket set to assemble backyard barbecue grills like normal people in my demographic, I get the “best value” approach. If you are at all like me, older, good income, happy to fix cars to save a few bucks and find it enjoyable occasionally and appreciate good workmanship, buy the HIGHEST QUALITY TOOLS that don’t require a second mortgage on your house. The tools are the cheap part.

PS Every shade tree mechanic needs to stop arguing on GJ and just bite the bullet and buy an SHLF80A. That thing saves my *** (back, patience, time) on almost every automotive job I do.

PPS Our pros here will disagree. When I’m working on my own car, yesterday outside in the sun, crappy sloping driveway, only the tools I’ve got, I think what I do and the way I do it is HARDER, than the same job would have been for a pro, vehicle on a lift etc etc. Why make your job even harder with the world’s cheapest tools? Is there a merit badge you get for fixing a vehicle with cheap tools? Women swoon at your feet?

And ”best value”sockets are probably used like new Snap On from eBay. You could conceivably use them for 10yrs and sell them for what you paid for them. No one can beat that.

When people ask about “best value” what they really mean are the “cheapest acceptable”. That’s very different. My best value car was my Porsche.
 

finn

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That Husky set went on sale after Christmas a couple of years ago for $69.

I bought two sets. They’re not Snapon quality, but meet the needs of my hobby garage.

I use them more than my Snapons or older Craftsman sockets.
 

AEAdam

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Its just an excuse to worry and act like they care.
Mike I didn’t understand your point. Like to know what you are thinking.

In case this helps, I feel people have delusions about modern Quality Assurance (QA).

Outside of aerospace, QA largely doesn’t exist. And outside the US, QA doesn’t exist much in aerospace. Modern manufacturing trusts the process.

Quality escapes are caught by us, the consumers, who are the real quality assurance organization. This is facilitated by warrantees which are cheaper (for cheap products) than actual human beings inspecting products.

Personally, I’m not attracted to warrantees or hassle free replacement. I’m looking for high quality products.

I’m not sure what the solution is. If QA is non-existent, then maybe buying with easy to use warranty is a good move. I hope that paying more to get better will continue to work. But being honest, I’m not 100% sure that’s a good idea.

And just to be 100% clear: sockets not breaking isn’t the measure of a quality socket. Nor is breaking a socket the hallmark of poor quality. #1 is having sockets that fit bolt heads “right” such that when you apply torque, the socket distributes that efficiently and effectively. Whether your sockets ever slip, damaging fastener heads is probably a better measure. At what torque they slip is another good measure.
 

richfinn

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It depends what you are working on and how deep you are going technically as to what value the tools have in the real world .

I just work on metric European/Japanese cars and vans.

I don't want or need any filler (useless sizes or cheap hex bits) in my tool kit for jobs I'm never going to do.

What's more important to me is quality/availability of replacements in singles/dimensions that will get the job done (sometimes I need stubby/regular/semi-deep or even extra deep).

Preferably with a version of "Flank Drive"

I'm not worried about warranty so much, but I want a replacement on my doormat tomorrow if I lose or break something.

If you are just doing basic servicing on your vehicles at home I think you would be fine with almost any retail shop Chinese/Taiwan socket set nowadays, it's when you have do the really ****** jobs nobody else wants to do day after never ending day that you need high quality stuff IMHO.

That said Ko-ken offers the best value for money for me personally nowadays (no access to tool trucks) if you can stretch to approx $5 a socket 👍
 

richfinn

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Mike I didn’t understand your point. Like to know what you are thinking.

In case this helps, I feel people have delusions about modern Quality Assurance (QA).

Outside of aerospace, QA largely doesn’t exist. And outside the US, QA doesn’t exist much in aerospace. Modern manufacturing trusts the process.

Quality escapes are caught by us, the consumers, who are the real quality assurance organization. This is facilitated by warrantees which are cheaper (for cheap products) than actual human beings inspecting products.

Personally, I’m not attracted to warrantees or hassle free replacement. I’m looking for high quality products.

I’m not sure what the solution is. If QA is non-existent, then maybe buying with easy to use warranty is a good move. I hope that paying more to get better will continue to work. But being honest, I’m not 100% sure that’s a good idea.

And just to be 100% clear: sockets not breaking isn’t the measure of a quality socket. Nor is breaking a socket the hallmark of poor quality. #1 is having sockets that fit bolt heads “right” such that when you apply torque, the socket distributes that efficiently and effectively. Whether your sockets ever slip, damaging fastener heads is probably a better measure. At what torque they slip is another good measure.

Regarding the QA thing.

My solution is to try to only buy tools from manufacturers that specialize in a particular group of products and have a proven track record in that area.

This has stood me in pretty good stead over my career and no doubt saved me a fair bit of stress and money 👍
 

KnurledNut

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That HD socket set is comprehensive, more so than you are likely to need. High piece count doesn't equate to value or usefulness.
The Tractor Supply set Knurled Nut posted is a well thought out assortment and nicely packaged. Given, the piece count here high with lots of hex keys and bits but a more useful socket assortment.
I can't speak to quality of VietNam made tools but as has been said here over and over today's cheap tools are far better than those of old.
If I needed them, that TC set would be on my radar. There are over 130 sockets so excluding everything else, that still works out to around $1 per socket which includes actual bit sockets. Add to that the extensions, adaptors and ratchets, the rolling box and storage trays, plus wrenches and wrench rolls, screwdriver bits and nut setters, hex keys and its $.43 a piece with the option to walk in and buy it or free shipping. Heck of a bargain at $140, on wheels to boot.

ei=554&qlt=90&fmt=jpeg&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=0.9,1.jpg
 

captmoto

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Apr 29, 2007
Messages
364
Really??

While HF stuff is not that well represented in my tool collection, when I have warranted something, they would just grab a set off the shelf and give me a replacement from that set. The set missing that item would then get put on the clearance table.

But as always, the local management probably makes the call on that stuff.
That might be true. I hope so. I was in the store last year and a clerk was telling a guy to "bring in the whole set".
 

Dakotadadv8

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May 30, 2021
Messages
1,487
OP I always wondered why people go cheap on sockets they engage the fastener, especially ones in the rust belt. Rounding the fastener is frustrating. That is why I saved up for SO sockets and combo wrenches, probably could have purchased used or other brands but fortunately to have the $ to spend on tools.
 

bonneyman

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Some advice that I heard somewhere - buy the best tools you can afford.

Everyone's pocketbook is different, different parts of the country (and world) have different local suppliers, etc. If you can't get a replacement fairly quickly and you need your tools to make a living, then the loudest hype is useless. I used to poo-poo HF but dang lately - they have stuff DIYers need. And I like their composite ratchets! So I say get the best you can that's readily available.

Craftsman it can be argued wasn't "the absolute best" but heck Sears was everywhere. Now that they're gone HF (as someone posted) is everywhere and spreading. Hard to put them down. JMHO
 
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richfinn

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Some advice that I heard somewhere - buy the best tools you can afford.

Everyone's pocketbook is different, different parts of the country (and world) have different local suppliers, etc. If you can't get a replacement fairly quickly and you need your tools to make a living, then the loudest hype is useless. I used to poo-poo HF but dang lately - they have stuff DIYers need. And I like their composite ratchets! So I say get the best you can that's readily available.

Craftsman it can be argued wasn't "the absolute best" but heck Sears was everywhere. Now that they're gone HF (as someone posted) is everywhere and spreading. Hard to put them down. JMHO

Online retailing has made it so much easier to get good quality tools at reasonable cost nowadays, I do however miss browsing decent tool/hardware stores and even getting my wallet emptied every week by the Snap-On Driver.

But I can live with that 😂
 

finn

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Like all GJ it ”best value” really depends on what you are doing.

Bear with me: I had a tough day yesterday, changing front brakes on my 2WD F150. This is a job I should have been able to do in 45 minutes.

I was doing it because the brake pads were needed to pass PA inspection, and I knew the rotors were warped. Pads could have been cheap at my local service center, but rotors wouldn’t have been.

So for less than $200 in parts, I could do a job, let’s say in an hour, and save easily $2-$300. Worth it, right?

1) I had trouble getting the old rotors off.

2) The pads I bought simply didn’t work. I struggled to install them, and they were locked in and had to be replaced. It was a part quality issue and a HUGE waste of time. I thought my calipers were seized.

3) To remove the rotors, you need to remove the brake caliper bracket, which attaches to the back side of the wheel with 2 21mm headed bolts. Torque spec is 185ftlbs and I don’t see how I could have gotten an impact gun on them. With rust, they were significantly tighter than that.

End of story, it was all darned day fixing this truck to save a couple hundred bucks. I used a BUNCH of “silver bullet“ tools, Snap On ratchets especially the SHLF80 for those caliper carrier bolts. And they were TIGHT. Snap On sockets, I was pulling on with all my might..

Had one of those sockets slipped and rounded a bolt head, a day job could have turned into a weekend. I was bent over on my brake creeper seat, 61 yrs old, all day long. My back is hurting this morning.

How much patience do you have for “best value“ sockets? Seriously, if I used my socket set to assemble backyard barbecue grills like normal people in my demographic, I get the “best value” approach. If you are at all like me, older, good income, happy to fix cars to save a few bucks and find it enjoyable occasionally and appreciate good workmanship, buy the HIGHEST QUALITY TOOLS that don’t require a second mortgage on your house. The tools are the cheap part.

PS Every shade tree mechanic needs to stop arguing on GJ and just bite the bullet and buy an SHLF80A. That thing saves my *** (back, patience, time) on almost every automotive job I do.

PPS Our pros here will disagree. When I’m working on my own car, yesterday outside in the sun, crappy sloping driveway, only the tools I’ve got, I think what I do and the way I do it is HARDER, than the same job would have been for a pro, vehicle on a lift etc etc. Why make your job even harder with the world’s cheapest tools? Is there a merit badge you get for fixing a vehicle with cheap tools? Women swoon at your feet?

And ”best value”sockets are probably used like new Snap On from eBay. You could conceivably use them for 10yrs and sell them for what you paid for them. No one can beat that.

When people ask about “best value” what they really mean are the “cheapest acceptable”. That’s very different. My best value car was my Porsche.
Not my experience, by a long shot, and I lived in Chicago and the UP for most of my life, so I have more experience with rust and corrosion than the vast majority here.

Medium quality tools will do the job for most everyone, and I have had three Super Duty trucks, so I fully understand corroded brakes. It’s simply not that complex of a job.

A little heat from an oxy acetylene setup, or even a simple propane torch does more than a Snapon wrench in lieu of a common grade does more to finish the job without drams than paying for so called pro grade tools that aren’t used in pursuit of a career and putting food on the table.

If you need a reason to rationalize buying premium tools , fine, but understand that you’re rationalizing. I like them too, but I understand they’re a luxury, not a necessity to get the job done. I’ve yet to run into a situation where a medium quality tools didn’t get the job done.
 

mike93lx

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Mike I didn’t understand your point. Like to know what you are thinking.

In case this helps, I feel people have delusions about modern Quality Assurance (QA).

Outside of aerospace, QA largely doesn’t exist. And outside the US, QA doesn’t exist much in aerospace. Modern manufacturing trusts the process.

Quality escapes are caught by us, the consumers, who are the real quality assurance organization. This is facilitated by warrantees which are cheaper (for cheap products) than actual human beings inspecting products.

Personally, I’m not attracted to warrantees or hassle free replacement. I’m looking for high quality products.

I’m not sure what the solution is. If QA is non-existent, then maybe buying with easy to use warranty is a good move. I hope that paying more to get better will continue to work. But being honest, I’m not 100% sure that’s a good idea.

And just to be 100% clear: sockets not breaking isn’t the measure of a quality socket. Nor is breaking a socket the hallmark of poor quality. #1 is having sockets that fit bolt heads “right” such that when you apply torque, the socket distributes that efficiently and effectively. Whether your sockets ever slip, damaging fastener heads is probably a better measure. At what torque they slip is another good measure.
I believe that people (especially the tool nerds here) feel like they need to care about warranty. Regardless if it will ever be used.

Its a way to feel better about paying a **** load of money for a tool that probably doesn't work any better than most others and provides an excuse to rag on cheap tools that they feel like they shouldn't buy.

I bet the majority of guys here have either never warranteed a hand tool or have only done it once or twice.
 

kctgb

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Not my experience, by a long shot, and I lived in Chicago and the UP for most of my life, so I have more experience with rust and corrosion than the vast majority here.

Medium quality tools will do the job for most everyone, and I have had three Super Duty trucks, so I fully understand corroded brakes. It’s simply not that complex of a job.

A little heat from an oxy acetylene setup, or even a simple propane torch does more than a Snapon wrench in lieu of a common grade does more to finish the job without drams than paying for so called pro grade tools that aren’t used in pursuit of a career and putting food on the table.

If you need a reason to rationalize buying premium tools , fine, but understand that you’re rationalizing. I like them too, but I understand they’re a luxury, not a necessity to get the job done. I’ve yet to run into a situation where a medium quality tools didn’t get the job done.
A Yooper?
 

Professor Gascan

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I've done pretty much all the maintenance and repairs on my, and my two relatives' cars since they were new with a mid 90's HD Husky mechanics tool set, and in that time I've managed to break 2 sockets and all three ratchets. I split a 1/2 drive 21mm socket and twisted a 6mm hex socket into something resembling a wrought iron railing, along with each original ratchet giving up the ghost, all warrantied without any trouble whatsoever.

Along with a breaker bar and cheater pipe, that sub-$200 set has done everything I've ever tasked it with. My reasons for upgrading my tools recently have been to be a bit kinder to 15 to 25 year old fasteners I have to deal with, and to avoid messing with as few old plastic fittings, brackets, hoses, and wiring as possible while trying to access the parts I'm actually trying to fix. As an added bonus, things like flex head ratchets, stubby ratchets, ratcheting wrenches, etc. make jobs a bit easier and faster as my patience with auto repair isn't what it used to be.

With the money I've saved DIY'ing I know I could get spendy with high end tools and at worst be even money, but that would defeat the purpose of doing it myself in the first place. I know a lot of my tools are considered low end but even a 72 tooth Pittsburgh ratchet is a revelation compared to a round head 36 toother. Would I love a giant toolbox full of Snap On or Matco or Koken... you bet, but I just can't justify spending that much dough on tools that only see semi regular use.
 

kctgb

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Messages
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I've done pretty much all the maintenance and repairs on my, and my two relatives' cars since they were new with a mid 90's HD Husky mechanics tool set, and in that time I've managed to break 2 sockets and all three ratchets. I split a 1/2 drive 21mm socket and twisted a 6mm hex socket into something resembling a wrought iron railing, along with each original ratchet giving up the ghost, all warrantied without any trouble whatsoever.

Along with a breaker bar and cheater pipe, that sub-$200 set has done everything I've ever tasked it with. My reasons for upgrading my tools recently have been to be a bit kinder to 15 to 25 year old fasteners I have to deal with, and to avoid messing with as few old plastic fittings, brackets, hoses, and wiring as possible while trying to access the parts I'm actually trying to fix. As an added bonus, things like flex head ratchets, stubby ratchets, ratcheting wrenches, etc. make jobs a bit easier and faster as my patience with auto repair isn't what it used to be.

With the money I've saved DIY'ing I know I could get spendy with high end tools and at worst be even money, but that would defeat the purpose of doing it myself in the first place. I know a lot of my tools are considered low end but even a 72 tooth Pittsburgh ratchet is a revelation compared to a round head 36 toother. Would I love a giant toolbox full of Snap On or Matco or Koken... you bet, but I just can't justify spending that much dough on tools that only see semi regular use.
People have it so good today compared to 40 years ago. I still have my craftsman ratchets and wrenches I bought 40 years ago. They are crude tools compared to a cheap Harbor Freight 72 tooth Pittsburgh ratchet today.
 

Burt Shaver

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I have a Stanley tool set from Canadian tire, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2” that is probably around 15 years old also have a set of metric and a set of SAE 1/2” impact sockets. A whole array of other tools, that are probably all considered low end tools. The only tools I own that would be considered mid range tools are my 2 Mitutoyo calipers. If I remember correctly I’ve broken 3 ratchets and 1 torx over 15 or 20 years, all covered under warranty with no issue. I repair and maintain vehicles for my wife, 2 children and myself, also like to wrench in snowmobiles, seadoo’s and whatever else needs repair. I’ve never found that they don’t fit correctly, I’m not stripping heads with them, the more expensive tools probably have tighter tolerances and better ratcheting mechanisms ( ratcheting mechanism is a weak spot for Stanley) but I don’t find it any inconvenience to work with these tools. Now when it comes to contracting I like to have better tools as I find they are precision tools compared to cheaper brands. Wouldn’t go without my dewalt table saw and miter saw. For the average guy like myself working on his own trucks and cars I think the cheaper tools mentioned in previous post work fine but I’ve never used snap on sockets so hard for me to say for sure. I just can’t imagine what they would do for me when the ones I have work fine.
 

richfinn

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I've done pretty much all the maintenance and repairs on my, and my two relatives' cars since they were new with a mid 90's HD Husky mechanics tool set, and in that time I've managed to break 2 sockets and all three ratchets. I split a 1/2 drive 21mm socket and twisted a 6mm hex socket into something resembling a wrought iron railing, along with each original ratchet giving up the ghost, all warrantied without any trouble whatsoever.

Along with a breaker bar and cheater pipe, that sub-$200 set has done everything I've ever tasked it with. My reasons for upgrading my tools recently have been to be a bit kinder to 15 to 25 year old fasteners I have to deal with, and to avoid messing with as few old plastic fittings, brackets, hoses, and wiring as possible while trying to access the parts I'm actually trying to fix. As an added bonus, things like flex head ratchets, stubby ratchets, ratcheting wrenches, etc. make jobs a bit easier and faster as my patience with auto repair isn't what it used to be.

With the money I've saved DIY'ing I know I could get spendy with high end tools and at worst be even money, but that would defeat the purpose of doing it myself in the first place. I know a lot of my tools are considered low end but even a 72 tooth Pittsburgh ratchet is a revelation compared to a round head 36 toother. Would I love a giant toolbox full of Snap On or Matco or Koken... you bet, but I just can't justify spending that much dough on tools that only see semi regular use.

You really don't have to spend a fortune to have a few "pro-quality" basics to make your life a bit easier and your toolkit a bit more enjoyable these days.

You can often buy lightly used tool truck stuff from eBay

You can buy regular Ko-ken sockets instead of the more pricey Z series stuff

You can do a little research on GJ and find out who really makes the expensive tools truck stuff and buy it without the fancy logo for far less (there's a thread)

Make a "wish list" and wait til Black Friday

Amazon sell some decent Brands like Facom, Vessel, Knipex etc.

Then you have Tekton with the special offers and rebates and those snazzy Canadian Toolboxes 😂
 

AEAdam

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Not my experience, by a long shot, and I lived in Chicago and the UP for most of my life, so I have more experience with rust and corrosion than the vast majority here.

Medium quality tools will do the job for most everyone, and I have had three Super Duty trucks, so I fully understand corroded brakes. It’s simply not that complex of a job.

A little heat from an oxy acetylene setup, or even a simple propane torch does more than a Snapon wrench in lieu of a common grade does more to finish the job without drams than paying for so called pro grade tools that aren’t used in pursuit of a career and putting food on the table.

If you need a reason to rationalize buying premium tools , fine, but understand that you’re rationalizing. I like them too, but I understand they’re a luxury, not a necessity to get the job done. I’ve yet to run into a situation where a medium quality tools didn’t get the job done.
I don’t think heat is convenient. I don’t have an oxy kit.

I want my tools to just work. If I have to soak bolts overnight in penetrating oil or lay on my back with a torch pointed at my vehicle to get my tools to work, I’d rather go looking for better tools. If you want to call that rationalization, go right ahead.

I think those examples I gave (not putting words in your mouth, these are things I have done) are things one must do when they buy cheaper tools. This is one reason why I recommend the long Snap On ratchet. I didn’t need heat, just strength and I wasn’t worried I’d wreck something. And with its fine toothed head I could put that handle exactly where it was best for me with no chance of busting my knuckles.

Speaking of rationalization: What I would have liked to have and didn’t have was a nice set of super shallow swivel impacts and a stubby high torque gun. So I “made do” with just high quality basic tools.
 

KnurledNut

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n/a
I don’t think heat is convenient. I don’t have an oxy kit.

I want my tools to just work. If I have to soak bolts overnight in penetrating oil or lay on my back with a torch pointed at my vehicle to get my tools to work, I’d rather go looking for better tools. If you want to call that rationalization, go right ahead.
Tools don't just work because they are the best. Contrary to popular belief, bolts don't just fall off when they see a Snap-on wrench coming their way.
Often, heat IS the better tool. Sometimes its the only tool. Going full gorilla on a stuck fastener just because you have a 24" ratcheting billy club equates to breaking stuff you don't want to break. Vibration/shock is another underrated "tool."
 

AEAdam

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Tools don't just work because they are the best. Contrary to popular belief, bolts don't just fall off when they see a Snap-on wrench coming their way.
Often, heat IS the better tool. Sometimes its the only tool. Going full gorilla on a stuck fastener just because you have a 24" ratcheting billy club equates to breaking stuff you don't want to break. Vibration/shock is another underrated "tool."
Huh? Good tools work better than bad tools (can’t believe we are having this discussion on GJ). Pretty sure the Torque Test Channel data says you are mistaken.

Once upon a time, I too had craftsman tools. I had a long craftsman flex head ratchet and it would reverse if I put a lot of torque into it. I sheared Allen bit sockets. My wrenches’ open ends were unusable. And yes I broke a couple sockets. The convenient warranty was little consolation.

Good tools are better precisely because you may not need heat or other measures. And that’s exactly my point.

Big picture: Doing amateur auto work is hard enough. Don’t add cheap tools to make your work even harder. That was the point I tried to make in my previous post. Point #2:, I may not be a flat rate mechanic hustling to pay the rent, but like a flat rate mechanic, I absolutely have time pressure. I don’t want to spend any more time than I have to fixing cars. Good tools can save time and savi)g time isn’t just valuable to flat rate techs.
 

Hakeem

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The difference between low-end and high-end sockets seems to be smaller than with most other tools. Can’t say I’ve ever had any of my low- to mid-range sockets fail me or fail to get the fastener off.

It would be nice to have premium socketry but it’s a low priority for me at the moment.

And yes I broke a couple sockets. The convenient warranty was little consolation.

Yeah if I ever started breaking sockets I would upgrade without hesitation. That would be frustrating … So far so good though 🤞
 

AEAdam

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The difference between low-end and high-end sockets seems to be smaller than with most other tools. Can’t say I’ve ever had any of my low- to mid-range sockets fail me or fail to get the fastener off.

Thats the measure. Right on and good point.

Agree. And I think price=performance isn’t at all clear. Looking at Torque Test data, I don’t recall being at all impressed by the big box store brands like husky, kobalt etc. But Icon seem to be fairing pretty well. I’m not sure Icon is considered cheap tho. Gearwrench and Tekton are often pretty high on the list and I don’t think they are expensive.

It would be nice to have premium socketry but it’s a low priority for me at the moment.



Yeah if I ever started breaking sockets I would upgrade without hesitation. That would be frustrating … So far so good though 🤞
Any kind of tool failure is super frustrating for me. Anything I have to wrestle with, or fiddle with frustrates me. I just want my tools to work.

Fixed the F150 on Friday. Back to carpentry Saturday. Spent a couple minutes sharpening my chisels, putty knives, even razor blades. When your tools work well, they are just so much nicer to use. Life is too short for bad tools, dull knives, chisels etc
 

bonneyman

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It will at least teach them how rough we used to have it
That reminds me of a joke I once heard.
You know how - when you were a kid complaining how rough life was - your parents would say something like, "Well, when I was a kid, I had to (insert trauma)"? Some years ago this Japanese comedienne talked about her complaining to her dad as a child like this. His reply was, "Well, when I was a kid, they dropped the atomic bomb on us"! She was like - how can you top that?! :LOL:
 

Mr_B

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ICON sockets are pretty good value when consider ease of purchase in store with self QC/coupon offers and fact currently got easy usable warranty, good range: shallow, semi deep, deep and works out 3 to 4 bucks a socket for socket features/design/warranty a lot of people seem like/want .
Plenty options in the 1 to 2 buck range but cheapest of cheap doesn't always equate to value if your usage is going be high or you expecting them last well over decades .
 
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