The good sockets come with a good warrantyThis is why people should stop buying **** sockets.
James
The good sockets come with a good warrantyThis is why people should stop buying **** sockets.
James
Where? Please share the link!For $100 you can get CAT (Snap-on) stubby sockets with a 72t Koken ratchet. Tough to beat.
Its just an excuse to worry and act like they care.I have been wrenching non-professionally for over forty years and have broken like two chrome sockets in all that time. What are people doing that they worry so much about the warranty? I'm finicky so I look at stuff like the broaching etc. Socket-wise I have all USA - mostly older Craftsman - except for some recent Japanese Z-Series Koken. If I was buying Taiwanese I'd go Tekton or Icon. Icon because you can walk in and buy it. Tekton because of outstanding customer service and the rebates. I don't have one Chinese hand tool. I do have a couple of Taiwanese ratcheting wrenches though.
James
Guys probably don't want to hear it, but Harbor Freight has become the old Sears (Craftsman). A store in every city, lifetime warrantees, don't have to wait for a tool truck to roll around, reasonably priced. What more could you want?I'd consider Harbor Freight's Quinn lineup. Here is an example:
This set is on sale, but even if it wasn't, it would still be less then $1 a socket and includes a lifetime warranty. How many stores does HFT have now? 1500+?
Make that 1501. Harbor Freight is opening up a new location in an old Walgreens drug store location about 5 minutes from the house.I'd consider Harbor Freight's Quinn lineup. Here is an example:
This set is on sale, but even if it wasn't, it would still be less then $1 a socket and includes a lifetime warranty. How many stores does HFT have now? 1500+? They also offer impact sockets for about $2 a socket in 3/8th and 1/2" drive.
I'm a HUGE tool snob and I have all the big names, but these days, If I was recommending sets based on value alone, it would be Quinn.
Where? Please share the link!
Mike I didn’t understand your point. Like to know what you are thinking.Its just an excuse to worry and act like they care.
Mike I didn’t understand your point. Like to know what you are thinking.
In case this helps, I feel people have delusions about modern Quality Assurance (QA).
Outside of aerospace, QA largely doesn’t exist. And outside the US, QA doesn’t exist much in aerospace. Modern manufacturing trusts the process.
Quality escapes are caught by us, the consumers, who are the real quality assurance organization. This is facilitated by warrantees which are cheaper (for cheap products) than actual human beings inspecting products.
Personally, I’m not attracted to warrantees or hassle free replacement. I’m looking for high quality products.
I’m not sure what the solution is. If QA is non-existent, then maybe buying with easy to use warranty is a good move. I hope that paying more to get better will continue to work. But being honest, I’m not 100% sure that’s a good idea.
And just to be 100% clear: sockets not breaking isn’t the measure of a quality socket. Nor is breaking a socket the hallmark of poor quality. #1 is having sockets that fit bolt heads “right” such that when you apply torque, the socket distributes that efficiently and effectively. Whether your sockets ever slip, damaging fastener heads is probably a better measure. At what torque they slip is another good measure.
If I needed them, that TC set would be on my radar. There are over 130 sockets so excluding everything else, that still works out to around $1 per socket which includes actual bit sockets. Add to that the extensions, adaptors and ratchets, the rolling box and storage trays, plus wrenches and wrench rolls, screwdriver bits and nut setters, hex keys and its $.43 a piece with the option to walk in and buy it or free shipping. Heck of a bargain at $140, on wheels to boot.That HD socket set is comprehensive, more so than you are likely to need. High piece count doesn't equate to value or usefulness.
The Tractor Supply set Knurled Nut posted is a well thought out assortment and nicely packaged. Given, the piece count here high with lots of hex keys and bits but a more useful socket assortment.
I can't speak to quality of VietNam made tools but as has been said here over and over today's cheap tools are far better than those of old.

That might be true. I hope so. I was in the store last year and a clerk was telling a guy to "bring in the whole set".Really??
While HF stuff is not that well represented in my tool collection, when I have warranted something, they would just grab a set off the shelf and give me a replacement from that set. The set missing that item would then get put on the clearance table.
But as always, the local management probably makes the call on that stuff.
Some advice that I heard somewhere - buy the best tools you can afford.
Everyone's pocketbook is different, different parts of the country (and world) have different local suppliers, etc. If you can't get a replacement fairly quickly and you need your tools to make a living, then the loudest hype is useless. I used to poo-poo HF but dang lately - they have stuff DIYers need. And I like their composite ratchets! So I say get the best you can that's readily available.
Craftsman it can be argued wasn't "the absolute best" but heck Sears was everywhere. Now that they're gone HF (as someone posted) is everywhere and spreading. Hard to put them down. JMHO
Not my experience, by a long shot, and I lived in Chicago and the UP for most of my life, so I have more experience with rust and corrosion than the vast majority here.Like all GJ it ”best value” really depends on what you are doing.
Bear with me: I had a tough day yesterday, changing front brakes on my 2WD F150. This is a job I should have been able to do in 45 minutes.
I was doing it because the brake pads were needed to pass PA inspection, and I knew the rotors were warped. Pads could have been cheap at my local service center, but rotors wouldn’t have been.
So for less than $200 in parts, I could do a job, let’s say in an hour, and save easily $2-$300. Worth it, right?
1) I had trouble getting the old rotors off.
2) The pads I bought simply didn’t work. I struggled to install them, and they were locked in and had to be replaced. It was a part quality issue and a HUGE waste of time. I thought my calipers were seized.
3) To remove the rotors, you need to remove the brake caliper bracket, which attaches to the back side of the wheel with 2 21mm headed bolts. Torque spec is 185ftlbs and I don’t see how I could have gotten an impact gun on them. With rust, they were significantly tighter than that.
End of story, it was all darned day fixing this truck to save a couple hundred bucks. I used a BUNCH of “silver bullet“ tools, Snap On ratchets especially the SHLF80 for those caliper carrier bolts. And they were TIGHT. Snap On sockets, I was pulling on with all my might..
Had one of those sockets slipped and rounded a bolt head, a day job could have turned into a weekend. I was bent over on my brake creeper seat, 61 yrs old, all day long. My back is hurting this morning.
How much patience do you have for “best value“ sockets? Seriously, if I used my socket set to assemble backyard barbecue grills like normal people in my demographic, I get the “best value” approach. If you are at all like me, older, good income, happy to fix cars to save a few bucks and find it enjoyable occasionally and appreciate good workmanship, buy the HIGHEST QUALITY TOOLS that don’t require a second mortgage on your house. The tools are the cheap part.
PS Every shade tree mechanic needs to stop arguing on GJ and just bite the bullet and buy an SHLF80A. That thing saves my *** (back, patience, time) on almost every automotive job I do.
PPS Our pros here will disagree. When I’m working on my own car, yesterday outside in the sun, crappy sloping driveway, only the tools I’ve got, I think what I do and the way I do it is HARDER, than the same job would have been for a pro, vehicle on a lift etc etc. Why make your job even harder with the world’s cheapest tools? Is there a merit badge you get for fixing a vehicle with cheap tools? Women swoon at your feet?
And ”best value”sockets are probably used like new Snap On from eBay. You could conceivably use them for 10yrs and sell them for what you paid for them. No one can beat that.
When people ask about “best value” what they really mean are the “cheapest acceptable”. That’s very different. My best value car was my Porsche.
I believe that people (especially the tool nerds here) feel like they need to care about warranty. Regardless if it will ever be used.Mike I didn’t understand your point. Like to know what you are thinking.
In case this helps, I feel people have delusions about modern Quality Assurance (QA).
Outside of aerospace, QA largely doesn’t exist. And outside the US, QA doesn’t exist much in aerospace. Modern manufacturing trusts the process.
Quality escapes are caught by us, the consumers, who are the real quality assurance organization. This is facilitated by warrantees which are cheaper (for cheap products) than actual human beings inspecting products.
Personally, I’m not attracted to warrantees or hassle free replacement. I’m looking for high quality products.
I’m not sure what the solution is. If QA is non-existent, then maybe buying with easy to use warranty is a good move. I hope that paying more to get better will continue to work. But being honest, I’m not 100% sure that’s a good idea.
And just to be 100% clear: sockets not breaking isn’t the measure of a quality socket. Nor is breaking a socket the hallmark of poor quality. #1 is having sockets that fit bolt heads “right” such that when you apply torque, the socket distributes that efficiently and effectively. Whether your sockets ever slip, damaging fastener heads is probably a better measure. At what torque they slip is another good measure.
A Yooper?Not my experience, by a long shot, and I lived in Chicago and the UP for most of my life, so I have more experience with rust and corrosion than the vast majority here.
Medium quality tools will do the job for most everyone, and I have had three Super Duty trucks, so I fully understand corroded brakes. It’s simply not that complex of a job.
A little heat from an oxy acetylene setup, or even a simple propane torch does more than a Snapon wrench in lieu of a common grade does more to finish the job without drams than paying for so called pro grade tools that aren’t used in pursuit of a career and putting food on the table.
If you need a reason to rationalize buying premium tools , fine, but understand that you’re rationalizing. I like them too, but I understand they’re a luxury, not a necessity to get the job done. I’ve yet to run into a situation where a medium quality tools didn’t get the job done.
People have it so good today compared to 40 years ago. I still have my craftsman ratchets and wrenches I bought 40 years ago. They are crude tools compared to a cheap Harbor Freight 72 tooth Pittsburgh ratchet today.I've done pretty much all the maintenance and repairs on my, and my two relatives' cars since they were new with a mid 90's HD Husky mechanics tool set, and in that time I've managed to break 2 sockets and all three ratchets. I split a 1/2 drive 21mm socket and twisted a 6mm hex socket into something resembling a wrought iron railing, along with each original ratchet giving up the ghost, all warrantied without any trouble whatsoever.
Along with a breaker bar and cheater pipe, that sub-$200 set has done everything I've ever tasked it with. My reasons for upgrading my tools recently have been to be a bit kinder to 15 to 25 year old fasteners I have to deal with, and to avoid messing with as few old plastic fittings, brackets, hoses, and wiring as possible while trying to access the parts I'm actually trying to fix. As an added bonus, things like flex head ratchets, stubby ratchets, ratcheting wrenches, etc. make jobs a bit easier and faster as my patience with auto repair isn't what it used to be.
With the money I've saved DIY'ing I know I could get spendy with high end tools and at worst be even money, but that would defeat the purpose of doing it myself in the first place. I know a lot of my tools are considered low end but even a 72 tooth Pittsburgh ratchet is a revelation compared to a round head 36 toother. Would I love a giant toolbox full of Snap On or Matco or Koken... you bet, but I just can't justify spending that much dough on tools that only see semi regular use.
I've done pretty much all the maintenance and repairs on my, and my two relatives' cars since they were new with a mid 90's HD Husky mechanics tool set, and in that time I've managed to break 2 sockets and all three ratchets. I split a 1/2 drive 21mm socket and twisted a 6mm hex socket into something resembling a wrought iron railing, along with each original ratchet giving up the ghost, all warrantied without any trouble whatsoever.
Along with a breaker bar and cheater pipe, that sub-$200 set has done everything I've ever tasked it with. My reasons for upgrading my tools recently have been to be a bit kinder to 15 to 25 year old fasteners I have to deal with, and to avoid messing with as few old plastic fittings, brackets, hoses, and wiring as possible while trying to access the parts I'm actually trying to fix. As an added bonus, things like flex head ratchets, stubby ratchets, ratcheting wrenches, etc. make jobs a bit easier and faster as my patience with auto repair isn't what it used to be.
With the money I've saved DIY'ing I know I could get spendy with high end tools and at worst be even money, but that would defeat the purpose of doing it myself in the first place. I know a lot of my tools are considered low end but even a 72 tooth Pittsburgh ratchet is a revelation compared to a round head 36 toother. Would I love a giant toolbox full of Snap On or Matco or Koken... you bet, but I just can't justify spending that much dough on tools that only see semi regular use.
I don’t think heat is convenient. I don’t have an oxy kit.Not my experience, by a long shot, and I lived in Chicago and the UP for most of my life, so I have more experience with rust and corrosion than the vast majority here.
Medium quality tools will do the job for most everyone, and I have had three Super Duty trucks, so I fully understand corroded brakes. It’s simply not that complex of a job.
A little heat from an oxy acetylene setup, or even a simple propane torch does more than a Snapon wrench in lieu of a common grade does more to finish the job without drams than paying for so called pro grade tools that aren’t used in pursuit of a career and putting food on the table.
If you need a reason to rationalize buying premium tools , fine, but understand that you’re rationalizing. I like them too, but I understand they’re a luxury, not a necessity to get the job done. I’ve yet to run into a situation where a medium quality tools didn’t get the job done.
Same here. I have a bunch of c-man ratchets that never get used anymorePeople have it so good today compared to 40 years ago. I still have my craftsman ratchets and wrenches I bought 40 years ago. They are crude tools compared to a cheap Harbor Freight 72 tooth Pittsburgh ratchet today.
That could someday be your children's inheritance...Same here. I have a bunch of c-man ratchets that never get used anymore
It will at least teach them how rough we used to have itThat could someday be your children's inheritance...![]()
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That could someday be your children's inheritance...![]()
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Tools don't just work because they are the best. Contrary to popular belief, bolts don't just fall off when they see a Snap-on wrench coming their way.I don’t think heat is convenient. I don’t have an oxy kit.
I want my tools to just work. If I have to soak bolts overnight in penetrating oil or lay on my back with a torch pointed at my vehicle to get my tools to work, I’d rather go looking for better tools. If you want to call that rationalization, go right ahead.
Huh? Good tools work better than bad tools (can’t believe we are having this discussion on GJ). Pretty sure the Torque Test Channel data says you are mistaken.Tools don't just work because they are the best. Contrary to popular belief, bolts don't just fall off when they see a Snap-on wrench coming their way.
Often, heat IS the better tool. Sometimes its the only tool. Going full gorilla on a stuck fastener just because you have a 24" ratcheting billy club equates to breaking stuff you don't want to break. Vibration/shock is another underrated "tool."
And yes I broke a couple sockets. The convenient warranty was little consolation.
The difference between low-end and high-end sockets seems to be smaller than with most other tools. Can’t say I’ve ever had any of my low- to mid-range sockets fail me or fail to get the fastener off.
Any kind of tool failure is super frustrating for me. Anything I have to wrestle with, or fiddle with frustrates me. I just want my tools to work.It would be nice to have premium socketry but it’s a low priority for me at the moment.
Yeah if I ever started breaking sockets I would upgrade without hesitation. That would be frustrating … So far so good though![]()
That reminds me of a joke I once heard.It will at least teach them how rough we used to have it