Best way prepare small engine for storage

[BrianS]

What do you guys do before storing your equipment with small engines (lawn mower, snowblower, etc)?

This past spring I put my snowblower away by siphoning the gas out of the tank and running it until it quit. I always run stabilized fuel. Last week I went to start it and it would not start. It is a Toro Powermax 726 and I read that it was probably a dirty main jet in the carb. Sure enough, I pulled the bowl off the bottom of the carb and it was full of black gunk. Cleaned the bowl and the main jet in the bowl screw and it started on the first pull.

What can I do next time to prevent this?

 

[raddksn]

I put stabil in and run it long enuf to get stabil into carb(s) then fill tank to the top (no room for condinsation) so far so good

 

[mayday0017]

Personally don't believe in fuel additives, shut off the fuel and run it till it dies. If you want to go the extra mile loosen the bolt on the bottom of the carb bowl and let it drain. Now everything in the carb will be perfect the next time you go to use it. If it will be sitting for even longer then over the winter you can fog some WD40 into the intake while turning over the motor. Always make sure anything you leave stored has a 100% full tank of gas as well.

Won't say other methods don't work, but I believe in keeping it simple and this has worked for years for me with not issues. If I was storing for several years I would make some slight changes.

 

[Boomer343]

I run only fuel that doesn't have ethanol in my motorcycles and small engines like the snow blower. If I'm on the road with the bike and am running through a tank then I don't mind using fuel with some ethanol in it.

I have also switched away from fuel stabilizers and gone with adding a small amount of two stroke oil with the Tw3 specification to the fuel. I have been pleased with the results so far in everything from our BMW Z4 which gets parked for 5 months a year to the MC to the small engines.

If you are using Stabil use their Marine Formula or look at some of the other stabilizers as there are better ones.

If you have a plastic tank on the snow blower then I would leave a quarter tank for storage in a cool place and then fill with fresh fuel before starting. Even better would be to drain the fuel and start fresh.

 

[pcmeiners]

Agree with mayday, loosen the float bowel nut, better still carefully remove the bowl and wipe the inside. If you do not have an inline fuel filter, add one, had a couple Toros, the jets clogs easily.

 

[AZ Pete]

Does the manufacturer have guidelines for long term storage? My Honda generator does, and they have served me well. They call for draining the tank (it's a plastic tank, so no worry about condensation causing rust). Draining the carb (there is a drain screw). Remove the spark plug, and put a tbs or so of oil in the cylinder then pulling the rope to distribute the oil, replace the plug. That's about what I remember and do, and it has worked for me for several years. I don't use any fuel additives, because I don't leave fuel in the tank. If I had a steel tank, and could not assure that it was completely empty, I would reconsider that though.

 

[Stevedore]

I usually shut off the fuel valve, then run it until it stops, hoping that gets rid of most of the gas in the carburetor. Last step I do is pull the starter cord slowly until I feel compression, which tells me the valves are closed, which may keep moisture, condensation, etc., out of the combustion chamber. And maybe keep any rust film from forming on the valves/seats.

And I always use Stabil; seems like it's more necessary than ever, with ethanol being added to our gas. I guess the Stabil helps reduce internal corrosion?

 

[brycez28]

As most have already said, I put stabil in the fuel and make sure it is run enough to go through the engine, then turn the gas off and let it run until it is out. A buddy of mine uses fogging oil on his engines.

 

[Mandres]

So what's in Stabil anyway? Is this the kind of thing where we're all paying inflated prices for a designer chemical when we could just mix our own out of the same components?

 

[Gary S]

I put stabil in and run it long enuf to get stabil into carb(s) then fill tank to the top (no room for condinsation) so far so good

That is what I do. It has worked perfectly for me for 16 years. In the Fall it starts up with a tap of the starter button each year.

 

[laser3kw]

I put stabil in and run it long enuf to get stabil into carb(s) then fill tank to the top (no room for condinsation) so far so good

I just repaired a 10 hp Tecumseh with a no start. The owner had stored it with StaBil (I think). Upon disassembly I found the "stuff" had dried into a thick green crust on the float and in all the passages. I had to wire brush the **** off. I also pulled the welsh plugs and wired out all the holes, same with the main "jet".
I have never stored with anything. Drain the tank, run the carb till it starts to die and fog with WD40 - done. It might take a shot of gas to kick start (with gas in tank) it the next year but ince they fire and draw fuel they are good for the whole season.

 

[AMCguy]

I have been in the lawn maintenance business since 1986. When I started, I had never heard of fuel stabilizer. I'm not saying it didn't exist, I'm just saying I hadn't heard of it. Now that I know about it I can't help but think it's a gimmick.

All I have ever done in the fall is give my equipment a good cleaning and leave enough fuel in it to start up again in the spring. I only have four months of down time over the winter and I don't think thats enough to worry about.

A snow blower that sits nine months of the year is another story. If it's going to be stored in a heated area. It should be run dry and put away. If a lawn mower is going to be left in a cold area over the winter, the tank should be left full and the engine should be in a place that doesn't see temperature swings.

If you wanted to store a can of gas for a yet to be determined time I suppose stabilizer might be a good idea, but wouldn't using it your car and just replacing it in the spring make more sense?

 

[tdkkart]

I never "run it dry", problem is, you never get all of the fuel out, which then evaporates and leaves a gunky pile of **** in the carb. I leave some fuel in the tank and let it sit, 90% of the time I have no troubles getting it to run the next time I need it.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

I run TruFuel in my small equipment after losing carbs to ***** ethanol based fuels. It's more expensive but worth it IMHO. http://www.trufuel50.com/default.aspx
It can stay in the tank and carb long term without harming either. If you're really concerned about long term storage go to your local West Marine or equivalent and get an can of engine fogger. Just follow the instructions.

 

[BrianS]

It seems the opinions are pretty spilt on leaving it full of stabilized fuel or run it dry. I thought I was doing the best of both by running the stabilized fuel and then running it empty.

I guess I will have to drain the carb bowl before putting it away. It is just a pain in the rear with all the plastic **** they have covering the engine.

 

[Iggi]

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/engine-fogging-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2ffog.aspx

 

[Lkdelta]

Is there a difference between "the red" sta-bil and "the blue" boat motor sta-bil?

 

[DenisG]

So what's in Stabil anyway? Is this the kind of thing where we're all paying inflated prices for a designer chemical when we could just mix our own out of the same components?

If you look up the MSDS for Stabil fuel stabilizer #22204, the MSDS says that it is 95% naptha (CAS 64742-47-8) and 5% additive mixture (no CAS # = proprietary additive).

 

[theoldwizard1]

loosen the bolt on the bottom of the carb bowl and let it drain.

Good, but messy and you will drain whatever is left in the tank through that opening !

... carefully remove the bowl and wipe the inside.

Much better.

If you do not have an inline fuel filter, add one ...

Good suggestion.



One of my big gripes about most small engine is that they don't have a fuel shutoff valve or an inline filter. To temporarily stop fuel flow, I use a small pair of needle nose vice grip on the fuel hose. NOT a good storage solution.

Now many Chinese engines are no longer using 1/4" ID hose ! It is 3/16" (or likely something metric) ID so common hose, clamps, shutoffs and inline filter won't fit or will leak.

 

[BrianS]

Luckily my Toro does have a fuel shutoff valve, so draining the carb bowl isn't a huge chore.

Any suggestions for an inline fuel filter to add in?

 

[DenisG]

Good, but messy and you will drain whatever is left in the tank through that opening !


Much better.


Good suggestion.



One of my big gripes about most small engine is that they don't have a fuel shutoff valve or an inline filter. To temporarily stop fuel flow, I use a small pair of needle nose vice grip on the fuel hose. NOT a good storage solution.

Now many Chinese engines are no longer using 1/4" ID hose ! It is 3/16" (or likely something metric) ID so common hose, clamps, shutoffs and inline filter won't fit or will leak.

I've used these to crimp small fuel lines: http://www.sciplus.com/p/CHROME-C-CLAMP_46771
The bottom part swings out, so you don't have to disconnect the hose and can "capture" the hose in the clamp and then pinch it. They're small and easily removed and attached. Not as good as a shut-off valve, but not a bad second-choice.

 

[yhprum]

If you have a source for avgas, it doesnt go bad, and is like gasolene used to be in the old days.

 

[boomer12831]

I put high test in the tank the last time I use either the snow blower or lawn tractor. I let it run down to 1/4 to 1/3 full. I also add some Sta-bil to the tank before shutting it off. When I get it out for the season, I fill the tank the rest of the way with fresh gas and it seems to work fine for me. I did have a problem with my 4 wheeler with bad gas because I was not using it enough to replenish the gas and it went bad, Ed.

 

[Corsair4360]

I have multiple small engines: chainsaw, string trimmer, snow blower, lawn mower, leaf blower etc. The 2 cycle engines are all Stihl, and the dealer here gives a 3 year warranty if you use the Stihl synthetic 2 cycle oil which has stabilizers in it. I run stabilizer in all of the engines (cars or not) which are used irregularly.

The small engine shops around here are fed up with the **** gasoline that our "lawmakers" have foisted on us and customers ending up with expensive repairs as a result. Chainsaws left with gasoline in them generally now need a carburetor rebuild if left for a long period, some say more than 6 weeks. Worse for chainsaws, they are designed for high octane fuel, and the ethanol evaporates quickly which is the "high octane part of the fuel. If you want to read some real griping about the junk fuel go to www.arboristsite.com and go to the chainsaw forum http://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/chainsaw.9/

I use the naptha fuel pre-mix for occasional use since it is very stable long term. I agree that aviation gas is a good alternative, that is the pump low lead stuff. Real aviation gas is very different from automotive gasoline and the motor needs to be setup to run it. If you want to read a treatise on gasoline go here: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/

 

[nehog]

Personally don't believe in fuel additives, shut off the fuel and run it till it dies... .

Unfortunately 'run it till it dies' won't use all the gas in the carb. It will leave about half the bowl full, leave more room for evaporation. If you really want to 'drain' the carb, then do so, perhaps you will be lucky enough to have one with a tickle valve on the bottom (my snow blower does) and that will be better.

Personally I've had best results from just using Stabil or another stabilizer or using nothing. Gas won't be optimal after four or five months of storage, but it will be OK to keep you running. The problems won't arise until it sits for a year or so, then the SHTF.

 

[Hencini]

I run only fuel that doesn't have ethanol in my motorcycles and small engines like the snow blower. If I'm on the road with the bike and am running through a tank then I don't mind using fuel with some ethanol in it.

Ding ding ding!!

If ethanol free gas is available in your area, use it in anything with a carb. No need to drain or add anything.

I would let my snow blower and lawn mower sit for 6+ months / year and never had an issue. Just top off the tank before you put them away for the season and you're good to go.

If you can't find ethanol free, the next best is probably to use a stabilizer. Run it enough to get the stabilizer into the carb, shut it down and top it off. I've had nothing but good results with this as well, but I'd rather not spend the extra money, go through the extra steps or add stuff to my gas.

As far as draining, I've found that it's difficult to get all the fuel out of the needle and seat which is where my equipment always used to gum up, so draining may actually do more harm than good. Plus, for moisture concerns, I've always been told that for winter storage a full tank is best.

 

[Lkdelta]

Any suggestions for an inline fuel filter to add in?

I snipped the gas line in my snowblower and added something that looks like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A0TJ3A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Slednut]

Yes, if you have non ethanol fuel just leave it be. Running it out of gas ***** up the heavy junk that's lying in the bottom of the bowl which can plug the main jet.

 

[astroracer]

Lawn tractor, generator, power washer, three push mowers. I fill up the tanks and do nothing else. Have never had an issue with starting in the spring (or whenever with the generator or power washer)...
Do the same with my three "summer" cars. Fill 'em up and let 'em be. I do put battery tenders on the batteries though.

 

[61falcon]

i put them in the garage and leave them there until needed again. sometimes I move them out of the way of stuff I may need during the winter.

 

[zmotorsports]

I just repaired a 10 hp Tecumseh with a no start. The owner had stored it with StaBil (I think). Upon disassembly I found the "stuff" had dried into a thick green crust on the float and in all the passages. I had to wire brush the **** off. I also pulled the welsh plugs and wired out all the holes, same with the main "jet".
I have never stored with anything. Drain the tank, run the carb till it starts to die and fog with WD40 - done. It might take a shot of gas to kick start (with gas in tank) it the next year but ince they fire and draw fuel they are good for the whole season.

My guess would be the green slime/crust is from the ethanol not the Stabil. I have been working on small engines most of my life and now with ethanol coming into the schene I am seeing many more fuel related issues. Bad fuel with either Stabil or two stroke oil mixed would always be a brown mud looking substance. Ethanol and its corrosive nature will be more green.

I have always recommend running the systems dry prior to storage or at the bare minimum putting the recommended amount of Stabil in the fuel prior to mowing the lawn or using the last time of the seaon to all of my customers. For the most part is has worked as advertised.

However, over the past several years with the new government regulations pertaining to increasing the ethanol from 10% to 15% this is disasterous to your small engines. It is recommended to search and locate fuel that only contains 10% for small engines.

I am advocating now more than ever to run the fuel systems dry prior to storage. There are some fuel additives that will do a better job of displacing the ethanol in fuel such as a new one that Briggs and Stratton developed but even they say it is not ideal.

Mike.

 

[lynnbilodeau]

Ethanol free fuel will keep for a long time. IMHO, running the carb dry is a waste of time, and the little bit of fuel you left in there now has way more oxygen to interact with.

Just to be safe, I use a little fuel stabilizer (then run it long engouth to get distributed) and fill everything up... completely. The less air, the better.

 

[kelpaso1]

Yes, if you have non ethanol fuel just leave it be. Running it out of gas ***** up the heavy junk that's lying in the bottom of the bowl which can plug the main jet.

No it doesn't. Where do you think the main jet ***** from?- The bottom of the float bowl. If there's **** in the bowl it will get sucked up regardless if it's full or empty. Same as a car. People think if you run out of gas you **** up **** at the bottom of the tank and plug your injectors. Totally UNTRUE. The fuel pump pick-up sits at the bottom of the tank so it will **** up **** weather there is fuel in the tank or not

I'm own a small engine repair company and in my opinion it is best to drain the gas tank, start it with the air filter off and when the carb runs out shoot some fogging oil into the carb as it's dieing. Then unscrew the main jet holding the float bowl to drain any gas still in the bowl. Also another good suggestion someone else mentioned is pull the pull starter until you feel compression. That way the valves are closed and moisture/humidity wont get into the cylinder.

 

[kelpaso1]

However, over the past several years with the new government regulations pertaining to increasing the ethanol from 10% to 15% this is disasterous to your small engines. It is recommended to search and locate fuel that only contains 10% for small engines.

I am advocating now more than ever to run the fuel systems dry prior to storage. There are some fuel additives that will do a better job of displacing the ethanol in fuel such as a new one that Briggs and Stratton developed but even they say it is not ideal.

Mike.

Shhh, don't give away our secrets (even though I just did). Keeps us in business. I have to clean carbs in most everything I get that's been sitting for 6 months.

 

[CharlestonJoe]

For the last two years I have been making a point to go start my small engines half way through the winter and run them for a minute or two. It works for me so far.
I also use stabil, but I use it pretty much year around, unless I am doing something where I know I will use the whole gas can up and have to refill it.

 

[east_tn_emc]

I have a number of high-dollar commercial-grade mowers, so I do my best to take care of them.

In the fall, I use the green MARINE-GRADE Sta-bil gas treatment. It is designed for engines on boats (ie...engines and fuel around a lot of moisture), and moisture is the biggest enemy of ethanol. I put a good dose of Sta-bil in the tank of each piece of equipment and run it until it is mixed.

I then go and start each mower about once every 3 weeks and let it run for about 5 minutes.

I have done this for YEARS and have NEVER had a problem with carbs and fuel.

 

[Kurt E]

Wow,lots of opinions here. Some of the ideas I am going to incorporate in storage of my infrequently used engines.

Here's what I do on my seasonal use engines. I Get non blended fuel put stabilizer and sea foam in it. Maybe it's overkill, but with this combination my small engines and antique car always start up and run just like they were used yesterday.

I also have a couple of antique tractors that might only get run once or twice a year.... These used to give me fits. Now not so much. I use the same fuel additives AND drain the carb. The bigger issue on the tractors is the needle and seat. It seams like the fuel attacks it if you leave fuel in the carb.

 

[gunguy]

I can't tell you if it works because of or in spite of, but this is what I do -

In the lawn equipment I run stabilized fuel using the red Sta-bil all the time. At the end of the season, usually around mid-October, I run the tanks dry, drain and refill the crankcase oil, fog the cylinder, check the air filter and pull the starter cord until I fee it's on the compression stroke. All of the equipment is stored outside but under cover out of the weather. Any left over gas in the cans I burn in the car and start with fresh fuel in the Spring. First use of the mower is usually around the end of March so the equipment only sits for about 5 months or so.

All my equipment is Honda powered so I don't know if that makes a difference. Also, all the pumps around my area are marked E10.

Never have had any starting or running issues; the stuff always starts on the first or second pull and has been that way for the past 7-8 seasons.

Don't know if this adds to the discussion, but that's been my experience,


Merry Christmas folks,

Jim