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Best way to attach osb?

showtime96

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Jan 1, 2020
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Edgerton oh
I’m getting ready to put osb up on my walls and was wondering what the fastest way to attach it is. I have my inside girts running horizontal and that’s how I’m going to run the osb. I plan on screwing the first row with 4 or 6 screws so I can take them out and adjust the sheet to get them all level. After I get the first row on I just want to throw the rest up and fasten them with a nail gun. I have a cordless framing nailer but can’t find any nails small enough. I also have a narrow crown nailer about 3/16” wide I think. I also have a bigger crown nailer 1/2” wide I think. Would either of these workView attachment 1741660
 
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619DioFan

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San Diego , Ca.
I have put up 7/16 osb in some older out buildings I have using my HF narrow crown air stapler and 2 inch long staples. None of the sheets have fallen down yet
Anything I attach to said osb I go onto the studs anyways.
 

red61cj5

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West Virginia
When I did framing the sheathing was always put on with adhesive coated gun staples. Very fast, but if you ever needed to remove a sheet, it was completely destroyed. Screws are slower, but you can salvage the sheets later if you want to make changes . Plywood still isn't cheap.
 

speed bump

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Butte Montana
Go from the top down and install with 8D ring shanks in a framing gun. Only exception would be if you install it vertical, then snap vertical periodically so you can realign
 
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showtime96

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Edgerton oh
If you have a laser level doodad they won't need adjusting.
I have a rotary laser I planned on shooting a line in for the first row. I don’t plan on needing to adjust anything but you never know. I built the barn my self and I know it’s pretty square and level. I also shot in the lines for the concrete but I didn’t do that. So everything should be pretty good.
 
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showtime96

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Edgerton oh
Go from the top down and install with 8D ring shanks in a framing gun. Only exception would be if you install it vertical, then snap vertical periodically so you can realign
I was going to do it vertically then changed my mind. I thought it would be quicker horizontally. Does one way or the other matter? What do you think would look better. I plan on painting. I was going to do drywall because a Menards near me had 14’ sheets but with a basketball hoop and kids riding their bikes and stuff I figured it get beat up to much.
 

speed bump

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I was going to do it vertically then changed my mind. I thought it would be quicker horizontally. Does one way or the other matter? What do you think would look better. I plan on painting. I was going to do drywall because a Menards near me had 14’ sheets but with a basketball hoop and kids riding their bikes and stuff I figured it get beat up to much.

If the sheets are the same length as the wall I would probably go vertical for ease of install. Otherwise horizontal works just start with a full sheet at the top and make any fixes at the bottom since you probably won't see them once your garage is full.
 

d.mcfarland

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Western PA
Drywall screws are very inexpensive. I can't see the benefit of doing nails/staples compared to screws other than maybe 3 minutes per board of time. I'm thinking about 8 screws per board easily holds it tightly.
 
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showtime96

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Edgerton oh
Drywall screws are very inexpensive. I can't see the benefit of doing nails/staples compared to screws other than maybe 3 minutes per board of time. I'm thinking about 8 screws per board easily holds it tightly.
I bought some Grk 1 -1/2 instead of drywall screws. I’ll see how the first few go and if it’s fast enough I’ll probably screw then but if not I’ll break out the nailer.
 

d.mcfarland

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I bought some Grk 1 -1/2 instead of drywall screws. I’ll see how the first few go and if it’s fast enough I’ll probably screw then but if not I’ll break out the nailer.
Impact driver, but make sure to not drive them into the OSB too far.
 

Walkers

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Cave Creek Az
Screws are always better than nails or staples, they are just slower. I can staple a sheet up in 30 seconds, but several minutes to screw it up. However, I can unscrew a sheet in the same several minutes whereas it takes the same several minutes just to cuss at the stapled sheet before destroying it in about 15 minutes. So, if you want to shlamity bam it up in as short a time as possible, then use staples. If you may want to make a change in the future, use screws.
 
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Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
I wouldn’t have any reservations about using the 1/2” crown staples.

It has been proven in many places that staples don't have any where near the holding strength of ring shank nails and screws even more than the nails.

In florida because of hurricanes staple are now forbiden. Ring shank nails called out in the field and screws on the perimeter.

Of course some might say ohio doesn't have hurricanes but they do have straight line winds and tornados. Why use staples to save just a few minutes per house when ringshank nails might save a roof down the road.
 

Jeff C

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Durham, NC
It has been proven in many places that staples don't have any where near the holding strength of ring shank nails and screws even more than the nails.

In florida because of hurricanes staple are now forbiden. Ring shank nails called out in the field and screws on the perimeter.

Of course some might say ohio doesn't have hurricanes but they do have straight line winds and tornados. Why use staples to save just a few minutes per house when ringshank nails might save a roof down the road.

For structural purposes I agree. I was under the assumption he was talking about doing the inside of the walls.
 

egdede

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Throw a few nails to hold it quick, then screw it with the GRK screws.
 

Shocker

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Olympia, WA
I sheeted my whole shop in OSB and used 1.5" drywall screws. Worked great and still working great for 8 years now. One thing I can do is remove a sheet if needed for anything.
 

dcg9381

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Austin, TX
I sheeted my whole shop in OSB and used 1.5" drywall screws. Worked great and still working great for 8 years now. One thing I can do is remove a sheet if needed for anything.

This. Use screws. Need to get back there to re-plumb something or run a wire, you've got a set of removable 4x8' panels.
 

Shocker

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So I will say that I didn't snap a single head on any of my screws when driving them. I used Spax black oxide screws. A bit more expensive than Grip Rite or the like. Made in Germany. Zero problems getting the flush (even a bit recessed to be honest).
 

mike93lx

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So I will say that I didn't snap a single head on any of my screws when driving them. I used Spax black oxide screws. A bit more expensive than Grip Rite or the like. Made in Germany. Zero problems getting the flush (even a bit recessed to be honest).
Spax multi purpose screws? Those are way better than basic drywall screws
 

Shocker

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Olympia, WA
Spax multi purpose screws? Those are way better than basic drywall screws
Actually Spax drywall screws. I do have 2 big boxes of Spax construction screws. 2.5 and 3" respectively. I use them for load bearing stuff as I am remodeling. Love those things.

The Spax drywall screws I got at a drywall shop on clearance. 25k screws I think. I have had them for 20+ years now. Did drywall at our last house with these and other stuff at our current house. Doing the drywall in the laundry room I am building. Really nice screws.

I took a look around and Spax doesn't appear to make drywall screws any longer. Maybe I should sell them as Vintage and Rare!
 

Blk88GT

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Mar 16, 2009
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Location
Manitoba
I stapled the outside sheeting of my walls and used ring shank nails on the inside. The only thing I didn't care for was the indent the nailer left on the sheet inside.
 

tstaude

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Mar 28, 2013
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Location
SE Wisconsin
I did something similar on my build, every sheet I started two screws then put it up and squared up after in place.

Then nailed it with 2 3/8: ring shank into the girts.

Just make sure that first sheet is P-E-R-F-E-C-T, makes the rest much easier.

I also put a string across my whole 45' span to make sure they were not walking.
 

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