best way to clean electrical contacts?

[whelenfan]

what product or technique is the best way to clean out dust/dirt/general gunk from inside old motors, power tools, etc.?

 

[930dreamer]

There's a spray for electricial equipment.

 

[tradesmanschoice]

An air gun to blast out the dust and other junk, then a paint brush to remove other debri. Gunk, hmm, you probably want some kind of disolving spray and a cloth to wipe off the residue. For cleaning electrical contacts, a simple pencil eraser works very well.

 

[whelenfan]

thanks guys.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I like the pencil eraser treatment as well. It brightens up the contacts without being too abrasive.

 

[ambenz]

There times when taking apart the unit isn't a option.
I use this or a simular product....

 

[brimorga]

90%+ isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. Be careful to keep it off of rubber and plastic pieces as it can dry them out and crack it with repeated exposure over time.

 

[Thedroid]

The sprays work real good, but if I can get to them I like to uese scotch brite very fine.

 

[browntown]

QD is the bomb. Carb-cleaner for electrics.

 

[mrholeshot]

In a pinch Brake clean works. dries quick and leaves no residue

 

[Hank McMauser]

I recently used some of that electrical cleaner on a very problematic window switch on an '05 f-150that's been in mothballs for about 2 yrs. After spraying it& putting it back together and using it for a few days it seems to be getting better with use. maybe saved the purchase of an expensive switch

 

[tubejoe]

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

 

[kc-steve]

what product or technique is the best way to clean out dust/dirt/general gunk from inside old motors, power tools, etc.?

It kinda depends on what it is, but I have used those small cans of compressed air you can buy at electronic supply stores. As for electrical contacts, I have used a real fine sand paper such as 1000 grit or more. I recently did that to clean the brushes, rotor and stator on a DeWalt abrasive saw.

Steve

 

[simonb]

i usually leave the whole connector with the pins inside a cup filled with contact cleaner for about 30 min-2 hours.
then spray with some air

works good

 

[whelenfan]

I picked up a can at the local ACE today to help clean up the Thor drill that I scrounged earlier in the week. hopefully it will assist me in giving it some new life.

 

[Scout Driver]

I've had positive results with the spray-can contact cleaner. One bit of advice..........read the can carefully! There are some contact cleaners that will damage or destroy plastic.

Scott

 

[senlow]

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

+1

Caig Labs makes a top notch product. It's the best that I've used.

 

[Vinko]

This is good to know. Apparently, Wurth isn't making or at least offering in California their contact cleaner anymore

 

[Warrenator]

Something I do when the switches or contact points are accessible is to cut a thin piece of cardstock and dunk it in alcohol (rubbing alcohol or denatured works fine too, Bourbon also if it's handy which it usually is in my garage anyway) and slide it between the contacts and then press the contacts closed and drag the strip out, like a feeler gauge.

You can then SEE if the contacts were dirty by looking at the cardstock, if there was a big greasy carbon smear on the paper you can do it again with a fresh piece. The cardstock is slightly abrasive (finely chopped up minerals used in finishing the paper, doncha know) and cleans pretty effectively. Dry cards or even printer paper works OK too.

 

[pdham]

I have used Caig's deoxit as well with good results. I also keep one of those old typewriter erasers, the one with the brush on the end. You can sharpen the eraser to a point and get to tight spots.

 

[M6erfan]

Deoxit!

 

[rlitman]

Deoxit!

Another +1 to Deoxit. I use a lot of DN5 at work. The stuff is a miracle for copper.

 

[torqueman2002]

Another +1 to Deoxit. I use a lot of DN5 at work. The stuff is a miracle for copper.

Yup.

 

[organ]

Deoxit is the standard...

 

[bonneyman]

I have found that 99.6% isopropyl from the local medical supply store in a pump sprayer works on most things, and is alot cheaper then the aerosol versions. But it isn't always strong enough to get every type of gink.

For contacts on switches that I can get access to, I use old worn-out emory boards. Even the striker strip on match covers will work in a pinch. Though, in my experience, contacts are being made so cheap now that - when they get to the point of needing "cleaning" - there's not enough material left afterwards.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YCB444/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[theoldwizard1]

Really bad contacts (ever see what the contacts in a Cummins starter solenoid look like after several years ?) will require complete dis-assembly and sanding until clean and bright with fine emery cloth. Then spray clean. Easier and not much more expensive to replace the contacts.

 

[Ponchoguy]

There's a spray for electricial equipment.

+1, I've bought it at my local True Value. CRC makes it.

 

[JRC3]

This stuff is gold.

I wonder who made it for Radio Shack. My can is empty now.

 

[Movover]

I use a fiberglass brush, it works wonders and can get quite down in the contacts

http://www.bhg.com/shop/eastwood-fi...g-tool-p2637a6b844cb9f53a9508f1f807225d8.html

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/fiberglass-brush

 

[crerus75]

This stuff is gold.

I wonder who made it for Radio Shack. My can is empty now.

My guess is CRC. See if you can find an MSDS online. It may tell you enough of the composition that you can find a match somewhere.

To the OP: I've rebuilt a couple of power tools and am rebuilding a vintage B&D Scru-Gun right now. Just about any contact cleaner works fine for the trigger switch, but I like to follow it with a shot of DeOxit from Caig. It's probably the best contact cleaner/lube made but it's very expensive, so I use something else for the first round of cleaning.

I recently washed the armature of a drill in soap and water to remove a layer of brush dust and oil. Dish soap, water, and a toothbrush got all the junk off. I then rinsed, blew off with compressed air, and dried overnight. I polished the commutator, gave a final rinse with isopropyl alcohol and compressed air, and reassembled. The drill works better than it ever has.