Best way to construct a 2 piece beam

[bochnak]

The beams in my garage are 2x8x24, one piece.

I plan to add 2 more above the garage door, and build a floor on it for storage. I will be building these beams out 2x6x12. I might even have to notch these, since my door opener track is angled upwards. It would be a waste to buy 2x8’s and notch them to less than a 2x6.

So, should I **** up 2 12’ length boards and sandwich them with 6’ long boards on both sides? I will also run bolts through them for extra strength.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[Junkman]

A wooden beam is only as strong as its deepest cut. Doesn't matter if you start with a 12" (11 1/2") beam, and cut half way through it. At the cut, it will only have the strength of a 6 (5 1/2") beam. If the 12" section is bolted securely, to the rest of the structure, it will still have its full strength. For this reason, you might as well just use two beams, one on each side of the "cut out". If you are looking for strength, if you sandwich two 2" X 12" beams with a piece of 3/4" plywood between them, you will add to the overall weight carrying ability of the beam. If you are looking for the ultimate strength factor, consider using a Lam Beam, which is made of of multiple layers or plies of wood that have been glued and clamped together under high pressure to give extraordinary strength as compared to standard dimensional lumber.
After rereading your original post, I would need to better understand your needs. I originally thought that you were planning on adding this to the header above the garage door. If you are planning on doing something different, then please further explain and / or also post a picture of the proposed project.

 

[bochnak]

A wooden beam is only as strong as its deepest cut. Doesn't matter if you start with a 12" (11 1/2") beam, and cut half way through it. At the cut, it will only have the strength of a 6 (5 1/2") beam. If the 12" section is bolted securely, to the rest of the structure, it will still have its full strength. For this reason, you might as well just use two beams, one on each side of the "cut out". If you are looking for strength, if you sandwich two 2" X 12" beams with a piece of 3/4" plywood between them, you will add to the overall weight carrying ability of the beam. If you are looking for the ultimate strength factor, consider using a Lam Beam, which is made of of multiple layers or plies of wood that have been glued and clamped together under high pressure to give extraordinary strength as compared to standard dimensional lumber.
After rereading your original post, I would need to better understand your needs. I originally thought that you were planning on adding this to the header above the garage door. If you are planning on doing something different, then please further explain and / or also post a picture of the proposed project.

I post some pics tonight. I also made a 3D model of my garage in Solidworks, to help plan my project (lighting, storage).

 

[bochnak]

Here is an exterior pic. Notice the overhang in front. This is currently an area where the PO had a bunch of junk. I want extend this floor further into the garage to make more storage.

Here is a pic of me standing on the other side of the door shown in the first pic. I stood on a ladder to geta better shot:

Is this clearer? I want to put 2 beams between the door header and first beam for a 6' x 12' floor.
__________________

 

[bochnak]

Here is an isometric view in 3D:

Top view:

Very crude model. The white rectangles are flourescent lights which I plan on hanging.

 

[Ironcrow]

It looks like it would be possible to remount the garage door operator track under the springs, lowering it to make more room for joists.

Since you are just looking for storage space, make the added joists part of an open truss with a couple of 2x4 running up to the existing rafters and a couple of diagonals. That would give plenty of rigidity even with the smaller lumber for the proposed new joists.

 

[Junkman]

I agree that lowering the door operator at the door would be the proper thing to do. I also noticed that the pulleys for the door extend above the wall, so you will need to make a cut out in the floor to accommodate them. I would look into purchasing lam beams for the project. They are much stronger in the same dimensional size as standard lumber. It will cost more, but in the end, you will have a much stronger floor for storage. I don't know how the PO cantilevered the front of the garage, but be careful not to overload that, or it could fall off. You might consider adding some outside posts to the cantilever to give it some additional rigity.....

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Its called a LOFT.

Charles

 

[bochnak]

I'll try to relocate the track today.

Also, I will not run the floor more than 12' wide, so pulley interference won't be an issue. The floor will be placed were the attic height is the greatest.

 

[nova65ss]

It looks like it would be possible to remount the garage door operator track under the springs, lowering it to make more room for joists.

Since you are just looking for storage space, make the added joists part of an open truss with a couple of 2x4 running up to the existing rafters and a couple of diagonals. That would give plenty of rigidity even with the smaller lumber for the proposed new joists.

You can't put the opener rail below the springs the door will hit it when it is coming up.

 

[Kong]

You can't put the opener rail below the springs the door will hit it when it is coming up.

What he said.

KongBastard

 

[Kong]

My advice (for what it's worth) is build a shed out back. I don't think I would want to add anything that would put more weight or stress on that roof. I don't think it is bad as is but it doesn't look like it went through a permitting process when it was originally built.

A structural engineer would be your best bet for advice considering the span, the block walls, overall condition of the existing roof and style of roof construction.

KongBastard

 

[kbs2244]

Use an seet I beam.
Smaller and stronger.

 

[Ironcrow]

You can't put the opener rail below the springs the door will hit it when it is coming up.

Generally? Or speculating on the clearance in the pictured installation? I had a garage door two houses ago that had the track below the springs if I am recalling correctly.

 

[nova65ss]

Yeah always unless it has double low headroom tracks, then sometimes you can go underneath.

 

[bochnak]

You can't put the opener rail below the springs the door will hit it when it is coming up.

I found that out the HARD way...LOL

 

[bochnak]

My advice (for what it's worth) is build a shed out back. I don't think I would want to add anything that would put more weight or stress on that roof. I don't think it is bad as is but it doesn't look like it went through a permitting process when it was originally built.

A structural engineer would be your best bet for advice considering the span, the block walls, overall condition of the existing roof and style of roof construction.

KongBastard

This garage was built in 61' with the home. It's the only cinder block construction in our neighborhood. I'm sure it's built to code.

 

[Kong]

This garage was built in 61' with the home. It's the only cinder block construction in our neighborhood. I'm sure it's built to code.

You have to be careful with older garages. They were built to park a car and lawnmower in usually. Depending on construction particulars a beam can add side loads to the walls that they were never intended to have.

If the roof is as low as it looks in the picture the extra space you will gain would be minimal. Build an add-on shed and leave the headspace in the garage for your lights and ceiling space. It's nice to work in a garage that doesn't make you feel shut in.

My opinions only.

KongBastard

 

[bochnak]

At this point, I'm not ready to build a shed. I will in the future after other home improvements are done.

I probably will proceed with this project and keep the load under 100#. I just need space to store seasonal items, rake, snow shovel, etc. I won't be storing engine blocks and snowblowers up there.

Does this sound more reasonable? What would be my limitations with my proposed idea? I'll be careful to not exceed them.

Thanks.

 

[Bill K]

I think I see a way to do it. Double up the beam close to the door then run joists over to the header above the garage door.

 

[Bill K]

Here is what I was trying to describe

 

[bochnak]

Here is what I was trying to describe

I thought of that, as it would be strong. The only problem is the 8' lights I plan to run parallel to the wall ties will have to mount on the bottom of the joists, losing cieling height.

The white rectangles represent lights. This seems like a good idea to use in the rear of the garage.