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Best way to cool my workshop
- Thread starter 1speedy77
- Start date
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Energy efficient air conditioner, and plenty of insulation.
DC73
Well-known member
If you live west of the dry line, you could check out evaporative coolers. Otherwise, Stuart has it right.
DC
DC
Gogo300
Well-known member
Only use it the months of October through February.
mrodgers
Well-known member
I am in nothing like Texas but at work our equipment control room with thin badly insulated partition walls is up in the rafters of the building. It gets to be 115 up there in the summer. Even in the winter it is hot. We have four 2000 liter vessels running at around 350° right outside the room. Our central unit broke years ago and we've been fighting with management for about 6 years for air conditioning. We have 2 window units mounted in the wall that keeps the room cooled down to 95°. Even in the winter on the day it was -32° out in the morning, with four 6 foot ventilation fans pulling in that -32° air into the area, the 2 AC units could only cool the room down to 85°.
Finally after upgrading one of the 110v units to 220v, having the electricians running 220v, and that unit going out within 4 months, they broke down and bought a ductless unit. It is 36,000 btu and does a fabulous job cooling the room.
The one they bought is Mr. Cool. They got the DIY setup so everything is sealed and precharged and you don't have to vacuum the lines to charge them after installation. I want to say it costs us $2000. The maintenance guy installing it said he looked into it on e-bay and said that unit he could get for $3600.
One of our maintenance guys out in another department has a unit with 2 air handlers in his ranch house, an air handler on each side of the house, and he loves it. Two others were anxiously waiting to see how it works for us in our control room as we are the hottest corner of the plant and they are going to order a unit. If I had the cash, I would buy the DIY setup for my garage tomorrow.
I have no affiliation with this particular company. I'm sure other 2 unit compressor/air handler ductless systems are similar. I just know that this particular one does a fantastic job in our 115° indoor environment. We have a girl we call the ice queen because she cranks it down to 68° when she's by herself on nights and it's freezing when we get in there in the morning.
Finally after upgrading one of the 110v units to 220v, having the electricians running 220v, and that unit going out within 4 months, they broke down and bought a ductless unit. It is 36,000 btu and does a fabulous job cooling the room.
The one they bought is Mr. Cool. They got the DIY setup so everything is sealed and precharged and you don't have to vacuum the lines to charge them after installation. I want to say it costs us $2000. The maintenance guy installing it said he looked into it on e-bay and said that unit he could get for $3600.
One of our maintenance guys out in another department has a unit with 2 air handlers in his ranch house, an air handler on each side of the house, and he loves it. Two others were anxiously waiting to see how it works for us in our control room as we are the hottest corner of the plant and they are going to order a unit. If I had the cash, I would buy the DIY setup for my garage tomorrow.
I have no affiliation with this particular company. I'm sure other 2 unit compressor/air handler ductless systems are similar. I just know that this particular one does a fantastic job in our 115° indoor environment. We have a girl we call the ice queen because she cranks it down to 68° when she's by herself on nights and it's freezing when we get in there in the morning.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
If evaporative (swamp) coolers work in your area, you may wish to locate a good used large unit and make it into a portable unit on casters and a stand. This way it can be placed where you want it without trying to cool the entire interior. A friend used one of these and it worked well for him. You wanted a cheap power bill, I can't think of anything any cheaper to operate.
matt_i
Well-known member
A swamp cooler is cheap, but you can't leave it running when you are not there and no way to allow airflow from inside to out (typically a garage door is left up a few inches). Otherwise, very efficient humidity trap that can rust all kinds of things. I lived in Arizona once and worked out of such a building and fought with rust issues when the door was closed overnight and the swamp cooler left going.
A heat pump is nice if you have any needs for heat...its basically a classic AC system except works both ways to collect heat from outside and transfer it inside in cooler months. When heating, typically full rating down to 50F exterior ambient, and then a roughly linear drop to zero transfer at some other lower temperature.
A heat pump is nice if you have any needs for heat...its basically a classic AC system except works both ways to collect heat from outside and transfer it inside in cooler months. When heating, typically full rating down to 50F exterior ambient, and then a roughly linear drop to zero transfer at some other lower temperature.
8man
Well-known member
I'm building in Bryan and we did foam insulation, no windows (security), insulated garage doors and 18 SEER AC system. That is about as energy efficient as you can get unless you spend the big bucks for the 21 SEER.
It's a 36 x 40, but not finished so I can't tell you what the bill is. Of course how much electricity I use will depend on things like how much the air compressor runs or how much welding or plasma work I do. So it won't be the same for anyone else
It's a 36 x 40, but not finished so I can't tell you what the bill is. Of course how much electricity I use will depend on things like how much the air compressor runs or how much welding or plasma work I do. So it won't be the same for anyone else
egnorant
Well-known member
Unwanted heat is just something you deal with. Either don't let it in or get rid of it once it has arrived.
How you do this depends on your situation. Metal building, wood, shade, resources and such.
Insulation, air flow control, radiant, conduction and convection barriers are all to be considered along with mechanical (AC) methods of heat removal.
Bruce
How you do this depends on your situation. Metal building, wood, shade, resources and such.
Insulation, air flow control, radiant, conduction and convection barriers are all to be considered along with mechanical (AC) methods of heat removal.
Bruce
Welcome to GJ. Really will depend on WHERE in TX you're located as high humidity areas like Houston will have different solution than hot & dry sections.
Update GJ Profile with a LOCATION.
You'll get best advice with more information like insulation plans, R values, etc.
Update GJ Profile with a LOCATION.
You'll get best advice with more information like insulation plans, R values, etc.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Insulation, as much as you can possibly afford, is KEY to low electric bills.
A good quality mini-split A/C system with 4 evaporators. Yes, you really need 4 if you want even cooling through such a large area. The SEER on these systems are much higher than anything else.
A good quality mini-split A/C system with 4 evaporators. Yes, you really need 4 if you want even cooling through such a large area. The SEER on these systems are much higher than anything else.
hippie2cams
Well-known member
I also live in Texas, so I can feel your pain in the summertime. I have insulated with r-19 in the wall of a 30x40 hybrid pole barn, that is slab poured first. then framed out 2x6 walls and 2x6 purlins. then covered on the inside with 5/8 plywood. I have installed a 3.5t heatpump that keeps the garage a very comfortable temp. I keep it set at 80 degrees all summer and at 70 all winter,and adjust as needed while I'm outthere. It is set up on its own meter and my summertime bill is around 90.00$ . thats with a deep freezer running also. Best thing I ever did.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
... It is set up on its own meter and my summertime bill is around 90.00$ . thats with a deep freezer running also. Best thing I ever did.
$90 per month ?
If the problem is sun then two things are cheap and easy to try.
A white roof and shade.
In AZ, where tall trees do not grow, I have seen the lattice work, like you see to mask off between front porch pillers, used to make a false roof above the real one.
If you get the one inch space x one inch slat that will be 50 percent coverage.
That is a lot.
Just space it apx 4 inchs above the real roof.
Color dosen't seem to matter performance wise.
Paint it to match the real roof.
A white roof and shade.
In AZ, where tall trees do not grow, I have seen the lattice work, like you see to mask off between front porch pillers, used to make a false roof above the real one.
If you get the one inch space x one inch slat that will be 50 percent coverage.
That is a lot.
Just space it apx 4 inchs above the real roof.
Color dosen't seem to matter performance wise.
Paint it to match the real roof.