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Best way to cut a drum open?

Chaznsc

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Apr 9, 2013
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6,548
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SC
I'm building a 55gal drum grill and need to split a drum lengthwise. I've got access to a skill saw with an abrasive blade or a sawzall. Which would be best?

Thanks

Chaz
 
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Highlux

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Dec 5, 2013
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Ofallon, MO.
Re: Best was to cut a drum open?

What did the drum contain? Dont use it if it held any sort of toxins.
If it had flamables...can be dangerous to cut as well.
 

GoodoleBoy

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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
252
Re: Best was to cut a drum open?

this with a bit that looks like a fork kinda..Cheap fun tool to add to the arsenal..

image_21490.jpg
 

holdover

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VA
been there done that, SAWZALL. either use the 2X4 as a guide or use a straight edge to make a chalk line Good advice about knowing what was in the drum before cutting it.
 

MP&C

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plasma cutter, three seconds


Mine didn't last that long... only about half a second. I wouldn't advise it, because I'm still here to advise.


OK, but here's the complete story. (It has been posted before):


For those who haven't read about my stay at the Burn Unit of Washington Hospital Center, (and the Medivac ride to get there) here is how not to cut the top off an oil drum.

My mother was in need of a new burn barrel, so I had asked a local school bus fleet owner if he had any spares. With all the oil changes he does, he buys all of it by the drum. He was fresh out of empty barrels, but had another source. The next day, when he did drop off what looked like a brand new oil drum, I mentioned I'd have to get out the hammer and chisel. (someone once told me your first answer is normally the right one) He said he uses a cutting torch on his, and left shortly afterward. Now I'm normally one of the stickler's for safety, but I guess when he mentioned cutting torch, it clouded my better judgement just because I was trying to get done in a hurry. My next thought was to go ahead and use the plasma cutter and get it done much quicker, what with all the work I have backlogged. I loaded up the barrel in my truck and drove down to a friends house to use my plasma cutter. (he had borrowed it to make a rock crawler out of a Suzuki Samauri) We got everything situated, I positioned the torch, and as soon as the arc penetrated the barrel, it was done. I have never seen motor oil act in this manner, and I guarantee it's a lesson I will never forget. I had the two bungs removed, and the larger of the two was right in front of me. The arc from the torch caused the barrel residue to expand the ends of the barrel outward, which in addition to sending it skyward, also aimed the larger of the two bungs directly at me. The flash exiting the bung holes (can I say that?) burned through a t shirt, an undershirt, and various other body parts that happened to be there in the way as it propelled upwards. When the barrel landed, the fire in the barrel was out, but it was still emitting black smoke. My buddy was standing there in disbelief, looked at me and said, "That's gonna look goofy for awhile". This prompted me to look in the side view mirror of my truck to assess the damage. Meanwhile, he got me a clean shirt to put on to keep the burned area clean. Unsure of the extent of the burns (ie: still dazed and confused) I drove home (about 3 miles), and asked my wife to look at it (she and I both have had EMT training). After some stuttering and stammering on her part, I told her to call the ambulance. Here is the drum in it's expanded capacity form, and also the extent of how much cutting got done:


Picture422.jpg



Picture421.jpg



Picture420.jpg



Regardless of a barrel's contents, especially one you receive second hand, don't trust anyone's word on it's residue (or supposed lack thereof), treat it as a worst case scenario and wash it out, purge the vapors, etc, and then fill with water before cutting. Best idea yet is to find a barrel with the ring-clamped removable top. Lest you wind up looking like this (or worse)


Picture425a.jpg



I know you guys are used to the progress updates on the cars I'm working on, and as much as I'd hate to see this happen to anyone, (and since I'm still here to talk about it), I may as well share this story if it will prevent others from making the same mistake. The least I could do after all I've been through was to make this post in hopes of saving someone else the same or a worse fate. One of my saving graces (including the Good Lord not being ready for me yet) was that I was wearing safety glasses and leather gloves, so no finger burns and only singed eyebrows. I spent four days in the burn unit and another three weeks to heal up enough to return to work in the shop. Please be careful out there and don't let a time constraint interfere with your better judgement.
 

MP&C

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Oct 21, 2009
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Leonardtown, MD
Boy you guys are slow at this hour, only took 12 minutes last time is was posted. :lol_hitti


The story behind the mirror, Never noticed it in the background when I was taking the picture. Actually the original showed the opposite side of the room, and once I was home in recovery and posted the original thread, one of the graphics artists on another forum saw fit to modify the picture at my expense, saying I should be more cautious about taking pictures with mirrors in the background. Everyone got a laugh out of it, especially my wife. But with her warped sense of humor, she takes it one further. She sends a "patient update" email to all the family, co-workers and friends, just to see who will be the first to reply with a "did you know....." So with my warped sense of humor I replaced it in the thread to see who catches it first...
 
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Clay1969

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Apr 26, 2008
Messages
11
If you could get access to a vehicle to put the drum in, a quick drive to the weld shop equipped with a plasma torch could make it an easy deal. Any welder/burner with balls enough to pierce a drum without purge gas gets what they gets.
 

nicksnothereman

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Joined
Oct 19, 2013
Messages
3,608
Location
In the Mojave
I'm building a 55gal drum grill and need to split a drum lengthwise. I've got access to a skill saw with an abrasive blade or a sawzall. Which would be best?

Thanks

Chaz

Sawzall but...the cut probably won't be straight (require a decent amount of finish work) unless you mount temporary guides of some sort.
 

NHBandit

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Jan 11, 2012
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2,757
Location
East Tennessee
Re: Best was to cut a drum open?

Noisy and sharp edges.

Would this cut clean or bend it?
And won't go through multiple layers of metal like where it's folded over on the top & bottom covers. Doubtful it would even do a decent job of cutting one layer since steel drums are pretty thick material. In any case he didn't mention having access to an air chisel or the desire to buy new tools to cut one drum. I've done several. A Sawzall is the ticket. :thumbup:
 

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Pathfinders

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Sep 23, 2013
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Upstate SC
I have used a reciprocating saw and a grinder to cut open barrels. Go with a grinder if you have one. If you don't have one, you need one. Cut the back side first, then install your hinge. This will save you a lot of HEADACHES with alignment of the two sections.
 

DIC

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Aug 2, 2009
Messages
698
What has been in the barrel? :shocking: Are you sure there hasn't been anything toxic?:shocking: BE CAREFUL
I knew a man that bought a barrel off a junk truck, Went home cut it with a torch to build a barbeque pit. He died that same night
 

mikester

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Dec 27, 2007
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small town NY
X2 on the above post. I went to school with a guy that died after a 55 gal drum exploded when he tried to cut the top off of it with a torch. Left a wife and 2 young kids.
 

DIC

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Aug 2, 2009
Messages
698
Even if cut it with a blade or air chisel etc. it can put off toxic fumes when go to use it with hot coals. Just Be Careful
 

vwracer

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Jan 16, 2011
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Linn Creek MO. 65052
I know 2 guys who almost blew a leg off torching on a steel barrel. Both have had multiple operations and have a fucked up leg! BE CAREFUL!!!
 

LS6 Tommy

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Northern NJ
X2 on the residual chemical warnings. Another thing to remember is many drums are lined with an epoxy/phenolic coating that is definitely not good to breathe the vapors from when exposed to flame. Usually these are drums from the food, beverage, cosmetics & pharmaceutical industries.

I realize you need to cut it in half, but I'm never going to understand why people try to cut the heads off 55s when you can buy them for the same price without tops. For a little more you can buy them new. If you're rich, you can get them in stainless steel...

Tommy
 

ljhhontx

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Dec 27, 2010
Messages
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Location
San Antonio Tx Area
I used to work for a guy who cut the ends out with a pipe wrench and a hammer, worked it like a p38 military can opener, the wrench would cut the top and curl the ragged edge down as he went, pretty fast and neat and little to no sparks.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Dec 27, 2013
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Northern NJ
Who sells new ones?

If you want a closed end barrel, Northern Tool sells them under "Barrel Stove Supplies" for a little over $120.00. That's high. New Pig sells them for about $90.00, less for open head. When I worked in the pharmaceutical industry we used to get them from Uline. Graingers has them, too, but they're pretty pricey compared to others.
My current boss gets them from The Cary Store but I haven't dealt with them so I have no personal opinion. Pricing seems reasonable.

http://www.thecarystore.com/contain...reconditioned-drums-steel-reconditioned-drums

Tommy
 
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