...I'm assuming because they are for steel I don't want them?
Well, I expect they'll work. There are three differences that come to mind in the ferrous cutting blades.
1) They use a better grade carbide. Only the finest grade carbides will stand up to cutting steel. That's good for everyone.
2) They have something in the design that prevents overcutting. It's essentially an anti-kickback leg. That's that hump behind the cutting edge on the first link. The second blade works similarly, though the hump isn't as well defined (it just has less of a top clearance or relief angle). It's like the anti-kickback design on better router bits, that acts like the rakers on a chainsaw chain (if you're familiar with that). It basically allows the tooth to cut just a little bit, and not any more, and if you feed it too fast, it pushes back. That's ok from a safety perspective, but can cause burning. It also leave less room in the gullet for chip removal (another source of burning). This limit on your depth of cut also means that it will forcibly cut more slowly (so I'd expect ferrous cutting blades to cut annoyingly slowly in wood). Still, if you look at the universal blades made popular by the Evolution saw, it can be used for the woodworking task.
3) The edge geometry is a little different for cutting steel. The line from the cutting edge will be straight through the blade center, which is a 0 degree rake angle (what the drawing below calls a neutral hook). Blades for softer materials (except plastic, which likes a negative rake) will usually have a positive hook that both helps advance the blade into the material, and also pulls the material into the sole of a circular saw, or down to the table of a table saw (positive hook also lifts materials on miter and radial arm saws, so it's not always a good thing). Not having that rake is probably not going to hurt much on melamine over MDF, considering it is already cutting very slowly.
All in all, it will work. And a ferrous cutting blade should last a long time cutting melamine, and you may even get good results with it. If you plan to use it to cut steel, and don't want to buy two blades, then maybe it's even the right choice.
Note that the ATB blade design is based on a crosscut saw, and is designed around severing wood fibers in a crosscut (though I get good results ripping with an ATB+R blade). But those sharp corners that are great at cutting wood get quickly dulled by melamine, and also cause melamine to chip out. TCG avoids those sharp corners, and that's important if you want good results.
