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Best way to get surface rust off tools

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signcrafter

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My electrical tool pouch was in the back of our truck and must have got some water or moisture. There is very light rust on a lot of the tools now. Want to see about getting it off or at least stopping from continuing to rust. There is a ton of Klein and ideal screwdrivers and tiers and felo insulated screwdrivers and a bunch of other electrical and low voltage tools in there. Any suggestions on what to do? It isnt horrible right now but still annoying but main thing is saving what I have from rusting more. If I had to guess there is probably over 500 dollars in tools in this pouch. The felo insated screwdrivers alone were a good deal and then a bunch of pliers at 30 a piece and strippers and other stuff.
 
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Hytekrednek

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if light rust, try rubbing with oil and fine steel wool, 000 or 0000. I use a firearm product from Hornady to lube and protect my tools from rust, called One Shot, lube, cleaner, and protectant. It works good, is easy to apply, and not very expensive.
 

Davefr

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...or WD40 and scotch brite. Maybe even automotive Chrome cleaner
 

ScottsGT

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Liquid Wrench or any other penetrating rust remover. WD-40 does not fall under that category. Back when I was in high school about 38 years ago I left dads Winchester Model 12 in the trunk after hitting turkey shoots over the weekend. When I thought about it, it was slightly orange from rust due to the humidity and bad trunk seals.. Hosed it down with Liquid Wrench, let it sit a few hours and wiped it down with clean paper towels.
Towels came out orange and gun looked great!
 

Cheapskate

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I've had very good luck with BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and a green kitchen scubby pad used very gently. Spray it on and gently rub it with the pad and then let it sit for a few minutes then gently scrub again and then wipe it off with a paper towel or rag. Things I thought were ruined can back to like new condition. It is expensive though but if you use it sparingly it lasts a long time. You can even spray the T-9 directly onto the pad then scrub the tool to avoid waste. I once sprayed it onto a shotgun that had a layer of surface rust and wiped it with a sock and it brought the shotgun back to very good condition. You can then spray some T-9 onto a cloth and then wipe the items to leave a thin film that will inhibit further rust and corrosion.

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bpjr

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Get a large vibratory ammo brass tumbler with corn cob media. Rusted hand tools will come out like new. My cousin did a shop full of tools in his Dillion tumbler after they got wet and very rusted from hurricane Andrew.
 
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signcrafter

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Thanks guys. Will start with some rust penetrent and microfiber or stool wool and see how it goes.
 

Loren871

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Honestly, why did you let $500 worth of fine tools get wet/rust? It's your job to prevent that...

He said somethin must’ve spilt or water got in on um some how. Stuff like this happens to the best of us. I’m sure he wouldn’t just “let” this happen on purpose
 

tym

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I've had good results dipping a Scotchbrite pad in Kroil and scrubbing the tool
 
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signcrafter

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Honestly, why did you let $500 worth of fine tools get wet/rust? It's your job to prevent that...

I went on a road trip and took them with me in the bed of the truck along with a bunch of other tools. Had some car repairs to do for family members and also some plumbing and electrical while I was there. Not sure if tonneau cover leaked or if it was moisture but my tool belt must have gotten wet. Didnt see it until the other day.

Love how you come for advice and some high and mighty GJ guy that has never had anything happen comes on and tells me it's my job to protect my tools. Thank you to those that offered advice without being a judgmental .... ....
 

HenryAZ

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Scotch brite green, then Fluid Film it. I've never tried Scotch brite with an added chemical, but will give it a try next time. Just the pad by itself usually works well for me.
 
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MoonRise

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Flitz. Per the label directions.

Has worked pretty well the few times I've used it.
 

ColumbianRon

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I've had good results in refinishing heavily rusted bench vises and other tools using Evaporust. Just finished a pair of needle nose pliers this afternoon that were heavily rusted and rusted closed. After 3 days in the solution, all rust was gone and they were ready for a bit of steel wool, oiling and put back in service.
 
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zktk01

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If it is just light surface rust probably just put some 3in1 oil and wipe it off. I have wiped tools down with vinegar before then put oil on it. if it is real bad then it may be time for evaporust.
 

mreisner

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Evapo rust also here. Other thing to try is Snap on 1920 steel wipes. I've been very satisfied with them for taking off light rust and also for protecting tools that are sensitive to moisture but don't want to feel greasy.
 

four.cycle

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rust removed with WD40 and brass brush from Utica adjustable wrench.

unless it's really heavily rusted, start with the least aggressive method: some sort of oil/penetrating lubricant and a soft cloth will remove light surface rust.
(for that matter, I've removed small spotty surface rust with Meguiar's Cleaner Wax)
next step up is the oil and a swatch of #0000 steel wool.
I avoid "Scotchbrite" if I can because I think it has a tendency to scratch stuff up - maybe that's just me.

Only when it's gone far beyond "pitting" do you need to plug in and turn on power tools, and even then you can still manage to do quite a bit with just a little brass brush and a bit of WD40.

"Box rot" (the black spots that develop over time) - no way to remove without altering the finish.

There are several "how to clean" threads listed at the bottom of post #4 in this thread
 
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FigN⋅m

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If you can protect it from getting stabbed etc., might be worth throwing some desiccant pouches in there afterwards?
 

JradM

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If there's a surface coating to protect, you might try some brass wool. It's softer that steel wool and is used on firearms that develop rust when you're trying to remove the rust but not the bluing. Bronze wool is also an option - consider it in-between brass and steel wool.

I would also endorse Evaporust, because it has the advantage of stopping any further rusting. However, it can darken steel, which may be undesirable.
 

Retired dozer fixer

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I went on a road trip and took them with me in the bed of the truck along with a bunch of other tools. Had some car repairs to do for family members and also some plumbing and electrical while I was there. Not sure if tonneau cover leaked or if it was moisture but my tool belt must have gotten wet. Didnt see it until the other day.

Love how you come for advice and some high and mighty GJ guy that has never had anything happen comes on and tells me it's my job to protect my tools. Thank you to those that offered advice without being a judgmental .... ....
Seems like there’s a lot of judgment from people that have giant toolbox’s full of shiny tools that look like new. Wonder what they do for a living? Likely not earn a living like most of us greasy hands. You can tell just by looking. Yes I pulled wrenches professionally for close to 50 years. I took as best care of my tools as I could but when you work in the sunshine garage out of a truck **** happens. Just an observation. Deal with it as best you can
 

Beerhippie

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I used to leave my range bag in my Vanagon. The bag held tools, ammo and magazines. I went on vacation one spring and came home to find the bag full of water--the sunroof seal had failed. Never had a drip before. Green ammo got tossed, but CLP, 4-0 steel wool, and elbow greast left the mags looking like... well, used, but no evidence they sat in a bag full of water and corroded brass for months.

I've removed some pretty bad rust from blued gun parts with the same stuff. It there was any bluing left under the rust, it comes out looking great.
 

MichaelP

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If the rust cannot be easily removed by wiping, you can use diluted phosphoric acid: it's as efficient as Evaporast, but much less expensive. I buy Phosphoric Prep & Etch in hardware stores, add water (2 parts of acid to 1 part of water) and use the solution to derust steel and cast iron in my machine shop. Amount of dilution is not really critically important: I used the stuff without any dilution as well as with more water. The 2:1 proportion is what I found reasonable, and the spent solution can be reused many times. Just make sure there are no aluminum parts or certain decorative iron oxide finishes: they will be damaged (the same is true for Evaporust): aluminum surface will become etched when you keep it in long enough, iron oxide finishes will disappear (some of them almost immediately). After all, rust is also one of the iron oxide forms. At the same time, the black oxide on the bolts or drill bits is, usually, not affected. Try to fully submerge the parts to avoid black line at the solution-air interface.

Depending on the amount of rust, the process will take from about 10-20 minutes to a few hours. Slight warming makes the process quicker. You can safely leave steel in the solution for as long as you wish. Even in a week nothing will happen to it. Some claim that cast iron shouldn't be kept in Evaporast for longer than 12 hours or so to avoid some surface roughening. Also, I've heard anecdotal evidence that springs can become more brittle after prolonged Evaporast exposure. I never had a chance to notice either of those.

Be prepared that some areas (especially those with a bit heavier rust) may develop black spots (converted rust). You can remove most of them by wiping, but some may still remain. Frankly, I don't even bother washing the parts after using those solutions: both of them will provide continuous rust protection for some time. Wiping to get rid of the majority of black spots is more than sufficient, but serves no reasons other than purely cosmetic.

When a part has a heavy rust, you may need to brush it a few times while derusting in phosphoric acid or Evaporust.
Extremely heavy scaly rust is easier to deal with by electrolysis.
 
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Beerhippie

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Ironically, I was watching a Youtube video last night on rebuilding Jacobs Chucks. The guy was complaining about how things in his shop were so prone to rust, even 'though he lives in Tuscon, AZ. Right next to the drill press was a Bug-A-Salt. Unclear on the concept?
 
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