Best way to insulate pole barn.

[Sevenhills1952]

In a new pole barn (horse stable) I want to make a tack room. Finished concrete there is 12ft x 12ft. I'll have 8ft ceiling with loft above. It's 8ft above top of window. Insulated area 12x12x8. A 36" door.
2x4s are 24" centers there. First picture is looking down, you see outside at ridges.
I don't want spray insulation, nothing expensive. I'll use OSB inside room walls and ceiling. Ceiling I figured I'd use 2x10s around perimeter, doubled either side 6x6 posts, cut 2x2 strips for inside bottom then 2x8s rafters on 2ft centers. Tongue/groove OSB on top (loft floor). I won't insulate loft area.
Thanks ideas & vapor barrier?

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[Jbullfrog]

Closed cell spray foam is the best thing you could use. It is a bit more expensive, but it is better in the long run and far easier to install. It will seal the best and acts as a vapor barrier and rodent proof. Bat insulation in a pole barn is begging for mice and bugs to live in your walls.

 

[Jakemedic]

While I don’t disagree with Jbullfrog, bat insulation for houses is not what you want to use. If you can afford spray insulation, it is great! I just couldn’t afford to have it done. TextraFINE® 6″ x 93″ x 60′ Is what I purchased. Built for post frame construction, it is significantly better than standard house insulation. I have two rolls sitting in my shop. Should be installing it in the next week, followed by a good vapor barrier. Good luck with your project and have fun!

 

[karoc]

Down at the bottom there should be a trim piece to keep out those rodents. I think its called rodent trim. There are spray foam kits for DIY'ers which run about 600.00 for CC foam. Looks like you already have something on your roof,pic looks like spray foam or something. Going to check out what Jakemedic suggested interesting .

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd use some Great Stuff to fill those gaps in the metal ribbed siding. Other wise you'll get insects/rodents like mentioned above.

How much are you going to heat/cool the tack room and how cold does it get there ?

You could start by putting some 1.5" rigid insulation between the girts. That should give you a R-7. If that's not enough, I'd probably build stud wall between the posts, use fiberglass batts and it'll give you plenty to attach your OSB to.

 

[derek_m]

I wouldn't use spray foam in a building that didn't have a wrap underneath the metal siding, in case that siding ever needed to be removed or replaced at some point in the future. In this application I would stick with batts and vapor barrier.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

With this information I'm thinking about great stuff spray along bottom then foam boards cut to fit between 2x4s and ceiling.
It may get down to 10 to zero a couple times, winter averages by graphs shown.
I'd like to keep room just above freezing in winter, raise it to 50F if I have to work in there.
I didn't think about mice which would be bad.

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[NUTTSGT]

With this information I'm thinking about great stuff spray along bottom then foam boards cut to fit between 2x4s and ceiling.
It may get down to 10 to zero a couple times, winter averages by graphs shown.
I'd like to keep room just above freezing in winter, raise it to 50F if I have to work in there.
I didn't think about mice which would be bad.

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Yeah, mice would not be good. Might want to stuff a little SS steel wool in the gaps before you spray foam.

You could also see how the foam between the girts works out the first year before adding the OSB. Do a test run to see if you need more insulation.

The other option would be to add full sheets on top of the girts, foil faced, tape joints and then screw the OSB over it. This would give you another R5, plus air sealing and a thermal break. However I'd suggest if you hang anything (heavy) that you try to hit the girts under the OSB/foam.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

Yeah, mice would not be good. Might want to stuff a little SS steel wool in the gaps before you spray foam.

You could also see how the foam between the girts works out the first year before adding the OSB. Do a test run to see if you need more insulation.

The other option would be to add full sheets on top of the girts, foil faced, tape joints and then screw the OSB over it. This would give you another R5, plus air sealing and a thermal break. However I'd suggest if you hang anything (heavy) that you try to hit the girts under the OSB/foam.

Good ideas.

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[tfinniii]

Yes , do something for a rodent stop. I stapled tyvex between posts and to purlins, then placed vertical studs and batts between studs then I used cdx and several coats of paint. The tyvex helps stop air infiltrating in and around batts.

 

[Firebrick43]

They make 8’ and 10’ wide fiber glass blanket insulation. We took some 2x4 scraps and screwed them to the inside of post at the height of the bottom of the top header boards. Then screw 2 2x4’s (3/4” shorter than the distance between poles) together with the top edge of the blanket between. Lift these boards up and set them on the scraps in between the headers. Have to do it at angle till both sides clear or just do one side, set it on and screw the other up. Need some one to hold the blanket up somewhat but goes very fast with no thermal bridging.

Beware of spray foam. I have seen some success but have seen two barns nearly destroyed by it. One rusted out the metal, the other trapped water on the west wall and rotted out the post and girts on nearly half the side. Of corse the metal and foam was destroyed getting it apart to be fixed. Both were proponents until the problems hit.

 

[Jakemedic]

I bought 8’ rolls of R19 for my walls. May even get them installed with a vapor barrier this week! Good luck with your project!

 

[GTA565]

May I ask where you purchased the 8' rolls from?

 

[Jakemedic]

May I ask where you purchased the 8' rolls from?

Hi! I contacted https://www.ancoproducts.com/the-team and asked them where the local distributor was. They gave me a few. One was about 45 miles away. I called them AW Metals in Bloomfield, Iowa and it was a stocked item. Amazing product, got one wall done yesterday. Going to do another wall tomorrow. It gets pretty warm in a tin building on a summer day. Gotta get out there early in the morning before it heats up.

I got enough insulation in two rolls for 550.00. That is nearly 950’ of 8’ insulation. Made specifically for post frame construction. Nearly stands up on its own, not floppy like fiberglass insulation for houses.

No financial gain from the company.......Just a good product. Good luck!