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Best way to paint file cabinets

redpines

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Apr 11, 2012
Messages
29
I'm repurposing several used office file cabinets and desk pedestals.

Looking for info on the best way to paint them all. I see some folks spraying them, some rolling. I'd prefer to not use spray paint, but could be persuaded if that's the way to go.

Please share your experiences & suggestions and what paint has worked/not worked for you. Thanks.
 
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Lippyp

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Jun 26, 2006
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Shropshire, UK
We painted one with rattle cans and it's still OK nearly 20 years on. I used to work in office furniture renovation as a salesman and we had a company that would respray filing cabinets etc on site. They used a clever system much like a powder coating gun that charged the paint with a static charge and the cabinet with the opposite charge so the paint was attracted to it, very little overspray at all. I'd say you can get a good job even with (decent quality) spray cans.
 

astroracer

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Jun 22, 2005
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Mid_Michigan
I guess it depends on how good you need them to look. I have brush painted many things in my shop and they look okay. The trick is to get the cabinets clean and grease free.
Wash them with hot water and some TSP. Scrub them with ScotchBrite while washing to rough up the surface.
I use an industrial type enamel paint I get at ACE Hardware. The first coat is mixed with 25% mineral spirits to get it to flow and the second coat is mixed at 10%. Good coverage and it should flow out well enough to look good.
Mark
 

stonesfan68

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Apr 19, 2012
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Houston, TX
I've pondered this question myself and have decided to roll Rustoleum paint on the cabinets. I think that it will take a lot of spray cans to cover the cabinet evenly.
 

Tronyadorable

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Sep 25, 2014
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I'm repurposing several used office file cabinets and desk pedestals.

Looking for info on the best way to paint them all. I see some folks spraying them, some rolling. I'd prefer to not use spray paint, but could be persuaded if that's the way to go.

Please share your experiences & suggestions and what paint has worked/not worked for you. Thanks.
Got a trade school nearby that teaches auto body ? Go talk to the teacher. Years ago before, I had spray equipment, I bought a washer, dryer and refrig used and wanted them white instead of snot green. The teacher told me what to buy and put 2 of his guys on it. Came out jam up. Wimbledon white Nitram. Sweet old Ford color
 

rsieracki

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Mar 3, 2010
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Chicagoland Area
i use rustoleum hammered... make sure you pick a color to marry into that popular if you plan on painting all your cabinets (eventually lol). i picked the grey hammered... it comes in both spray (great for nooks and crannies) and quart for rolling larger flat surfaces with foam roller (spray works good for 'correcting' a run defect when rolling also)

Rustoleum Hammered has been durable for me so far but occasionally i get corner chips etc... easy to touch up also

Good Luck
 

aka Larry

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May 2, 2012
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8,149
Location
Eastern, NC
Do you have an air compressor? If so, go buy the $15 HF HVLP gun, $10 quart of Rustoleum, and some mineral spirits. I achieved pretty good results on mine.

I started with this:

IMG_20140830_115930_692_zpsfmpk9mol.jpg


And ended up with this:

IMG_20140913_090310_460_zpsy1ldau7q.jpg
 

FedUp

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Feb 3, 2014
Messages
17
I used rustoleum hammered finish. Then my wife used sharpies to decorate the front. Then used spray lacquer to seal it up first then sprayed semi gloss clear. It took a beating in her classroom for about a year. Now it sits in our office at home. Will post a pic up later.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Dan in Pasadena

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Feb 18, 2009
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Pasadena, CA
Do you have an air compressor? If so, go buy the $15 HF HVLP gun, $10 quart of Rustoleum, and some mineral spirits. I achieved pretty good results on mine.

I started with this:

IMG_20140830_115930_692_zpsfmpk9mol.jpg


And ended up with this:

IMG_20140913_090310_460_zpsy1ldau7q.jpg

Love this Larry. Excellent results. I've read that everyone who sprays Rustoleum uses acetone to thin. I wonder why, but you had good results with mineral spirits so it's hard to argue. Did you use a water separator of any kind?
 

smedly

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Jan 11, 2009
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403
Location
Savage, Mn
Rolled with a foam brush with only a quick scuffing. Not perfect, but Im happy with the result.
 

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ToddG

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Oct 15, 2011
Messages
109
I also used Rustoleum. Scuffed, thinned 30% and sprayed. Go easy to prevent runs. Looks great in red!
 

vartz04

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Feb 17, 2009
Messages
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Location
LaSalle County IL
Do you have an air compressor? If so, go buy the $15 HF HVLP gun, $10 quart of Rustoleum, and some mineral spirits. I achieved pretty good results on mine.

I started with this:

IMG_20140830_115930_692_zpsfmpk9mol.jpg


And ended up with this:

IMG_20140913_090310_460_zpsy1ldau7q.jpg

Safety blue? I did mine the same but with rattle cams
 
Last edited:

CGT80

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Aug 29, 2014
Messages
890
Location
IE, SoCal, USA
I used acetone one time to thin rustoleum. I think it makes it dry faster, IIRC. The other times I have just used paint thinner. I thin until it feels good and works well, but I was a pro painter and tradesman for 17 years (commercial and residential).

I have a metal cart that sits in the middle of my garage, that was a freebie. The first time around, I sprayed it with my binks conventional gun and rustoleum oil based paint. The overspray is a problem around home and with spraying on the grass, dirt, grass, bird ****, etc. can get into the paint.

Last time I painted the cart, I degreased it, sanded, wiped it down and rolled it with a 1/4" nap roller that was 3" wide. A cheap chip brush was used for the edges where steel overlapped and the roller didn't work well. It seemed pointless to waste the thinner to clean one of my good brushes, and oil paint residue is hard on brushes that are used in water based paint. You can add pentrol to oil based paint to help it flow out as well. The key to oil is to not overwork it. Actually, the new zero voc water based paint in Komnifornia is the same way. It does not flow well and it dries too fast.

Use a brush and roller for simple shapes where you don't need a perfectly smooth finish (although it can turn out quite nice), and spray the intricate items or items that need a very smooth finish.

That cabinet looks very nice, Larry.

Rattle cans will do in a pinch, but they are not consistent for a large flat area and the price is much higher than just buying a quart of paint, for the amount of area you cover. I prefer a brushed and rolled finish that is even and tough compared to the thinner and often blotchy finish rattle cans seem to make.
 

racerex

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Dec 3, 2013
Messages
345
Location
NY
I also used Rustoleum. Scuffed, thinned 30% and sprayed. Go easy to prevent runs. Looks great in red!

What did you thin the Rustoleum with? I'm looking to do red also with my cheapo HF gun.

My company is consolidating some space and we're giving up like 10,000sqft of office space. I'm tight with the head of facilities and he said that I can take my pick of the file cabinets. I'm going to take a walk through the space next week. I know that they have some really nice heavy duty storage cabinets in the copier rooms. I'd just have to move them down to loading dock myself, after hours...he said that he'd get me two furniture moving dollies. I'll just bring the Suburban into work a few days....if I remove the 3rd row and drop the rear seats, I should be able to fit the tall cabinets in it....I hope.
 

lilredex

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Apr 29, 2006
Messages
5,956
Location
Toronto
Got this 24 drawer unit, identical to another I had, from a fellow GJ member. Sprayed it with Varsol thinned Tremclad, and it turned out just fine.....

The cabinet:



The gun ($12 from PAL), perfect for small jobs like this.

 

ToddG

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Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Messages
109
Paint thinner. I heard mineral spirits can be used too. Purple HF gun worked great!
 
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