Best way to remove surface rust from tools
- Thread starter Blwnsln
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krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
there is no such thing as a straight answer here.........if vinegar is too strong maybe you should try chrome polish. no really.......i'm being serious! most chrome polishes remove rust!
Not trying to be a smartass, but you haven't come up with a straight answer because there are different ways to remove rust.
Merkava_4
Banned
What kind of tools are you referring to? There's different remedies depending on the tool and the surface to be cleaned.
ricleh
Well-known member
Try Evapo-Rust. It has worked quite well for me.
If the vinegar removed the chrome then it was very poor chrome anyway or there was already rust under the chrome.
Uncle Buck
Banned
This thread is a perfect example of everyone having a different idea on how to remove rust from tools. My idea is different than all of those above me in that I simply use the wire wheel on my bench grinder.
So see, that is my straight answer that in no way agrees with everyone else's!
So see, that is my straight answer that in no way agrees with everyone else's!
Uncle Buck
Banned
If it removes the chrome from the tools then so much the better, the chrome was not worth preserving to begin with. All you can do with plating like that is cut your fingers.
No offense, but this question begs to be asked. If these are CHEAP tools, borrowing your own words. Then perhaps they may not even be worth the effort of preserving if they are as bad and cheap as you described them!
charlie_nj
Well-known member
Wire wheel on bench grinder followed by buffiing wheel and compound on bench grinder. Chemicals are a pain in the *** and are expensive.
First off the tools that pealed were cheep, a few of them were stanley screw drivers, my s/o tools are in my garage. But just beacuse they were cheep dosent mean I should neglect them. I will try some chrome polish on the cheep stuff from now on, and I guess ill stick with the vinegar for the good stuff.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
matbe some wurth metal restorer will do the trick 
Uncle Buck
Banned
I was not trying to insult you, I was simply pointing out that some cheap tools are just not worth the effort to do anything beyond tossing them in a trash can. If I did insult please accept my most profound apologies.
matbe some wurth metal restorer will do the trick
lol One of the many Wurth products I have never tried...2 many products to try lol
I was not trying to insult you, I was simply pointing out that some cheap tools are just not worth the effort to do anything beyond tossing them in a trash can. If I did insult please accept my most profound apologies.
Please dont apoligize, I just try and keep everything nice, cheep or not, these are not my primary tools I use s/o at my garage up the street this stuff is just for tinkering around the house. I think I left them in the vinegar too long, cause at first they looked perfect
Merkava_4
Banned
The idea is to use the least aggressive treatment to achieve the desired results. If you could answer my question in post #4 ... I could help you more effectively.
Frank Elson
Well-known member
Vinegar does not remove chrome, it removes rust. The chrome must have been on top of rust, or more specifically, the rust had spread under the chrome.
...and I'm with Uncle Buck on the wire wheel if it's anything other than thin surface rust which often comes off with a scotchbrite.
Then a quick rub down with something oily to stop the rust coming back..
...and I'm with Uncle Buck on the wire wheel if it's anything other than thin surface rust which often comes off with a scotchbrite.
Then a quick rub down with something oily to stop the rust coming back..
mkdive
Well-known member
1+ for wire wheel. That and some naval jelly works like a charm every time for me.
goodfellow
Well-known member
+1 on the wire wheel. I use a brass wheel in my bench grinder which isn't so agressive on chrome tools. Then a final polish on the buffer with jewler's rouge, and finally some wax to protect the new finish.
Everyone has their favorite method
The scotchbrite pad works well. Start with the light one and then swich to a heavier one if thats not working too well. I've also used a small cup style wire wheel that I covered with an older sctchbrite pad and used the drill motor to add a little extra speed.
Bolster
Well-known member
Yes, my guess is that there was rust under the chrome. I recently removed the rust from a wrench, that had little surface irregularities (bumps) under the chrome, and it was rust. By the time the rust was removed, after several days worth of soaking in Must for Rust, it was clean, but looked like h-e- double hockey sticks. Because there was rust under the chrome.
Hey if you guys are using wire wheels on tools, DON'T sell those tools to me afterwards! I can't abide the look of wire brushed tools, they are immediately banished.
Some are chrome, some are like coated metel cant relly figure out what it is ill post a pic
Uncle Buck
Banned
Good thing for me I never sell tools then eh.
Neither a borrower, nor a lender, nor a seller be, hey that's me!
Where do you find wire wheel marks? If you find actual scratch marks from using a wire wheel on a grinder, you are using the wrong kind of wheel, perhaps too coarse. The wire wheel is the first thing I have ever turned to to clean tools, and I would not do that to my own tools. So you might try a wheel that is not so coarse, you might be surprised!
Mr_fixit
Well-known member
I've used pickle juice, or vinegar, & soaking in heating oil (or deisel Fuel).
That 's for tools like wire cutters, or pliers, where the rust has worked its way into the joint.
If its just on the surface, I'd use some type of wire wheel in a drill , or grinder or die grinder, etc.
That 's for tools like wire cutters, or pliers, where the rust has worked its way into the joint.
If its just on the surface, I'd use some type of wire wheel in a drill , or grinder or die grinder, etc.
Weak Phosphoric acid which can be found in many rust away products. Removes iron oxide and binds with the base metal to resist further oxidation by blocking Oxygen from binding.
Unless it is binding a joint I don't bother. Use prevents and removes rust too.
Unless it is binding a joint I don't bother. Use prevents and removes rust too.
Bolster
Well-known member
Good thing for me I never sell tools then eh.
Neither a borrower, nor a lender, nor a seller be, hey that's me!
LOL!!! There goes my one chance of my being able to sweet-talk you out of any of your Plomb collection!! Dang! Me and my big mouth!!!
Regarding wire wheel, yes, I am talking about my own disappointments with my own results...as well as my disappointment with hundreds of wire brushed tools I see at the flea markets. I have used a wire brush labeled "fine" and it gives almost a grain pattern in the tool. However, using emery on a buff wheel, I don't get that grained effect; the worst the buff gives me (ie, when I overdo it) is a little more of a "worn" look than I wanted.
But you make a good point, the only wire brushed tools I object to are the ones I can spot as wire brushed...haven't seen yours.
Sorta like hair plugs...if you don't notice them, they look fine...(sorry VP Biden, yours are really obvious...)
Actually I have been shopping for a brass wire wheel that will fit on my 3/4 arbor...haven't found one yet. Have thought that might be the ticket for gentle removal.
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speed bump
Well-known member
Bolster this picture is kind of small but which ones are brushed?
One should be very obvious.
One should be very obvious.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Try a can of Nevr-Dull. It is like a cotton pad with some polishing compound similiar to Brasso in it. You can get it at Advanced Auto, WalyWorld, etc. It has been around for years. A dremel with a polishing wheel will work. And you may want to try some CLR. Stands for calcium, lime, rust. It will remove the rust, but you may want to dilute it or try it on a not so good piece first. I am not sure how it will react with chrome, but it does not bother chrome drains in a sink.
If it removes the chrome from the tools then so much the better, the chrome was not worth preserving to begin with. All you can do with plating like that is cut your fingers.
No offense, but this question begs to be asked. If these are CHEAP tools, borrowing your own words. Then perhaps they may not even be worth the effort of preserving if they are as bad and cheap as you described them!
Right! You can't polish a turd. Let the cheap tools stay that way,buy some new ones, good tools don't rust too badly, at least not for inside use. Happy tool shopping.
Merkava_4
Banned
I don't know what kind of tool the OP is trying to remove rust from, but the Maroon Scotch-Brite pad will remove rust from pliers in a hurry.
Frank Elson
Well-known member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bolster View Post
Hey if you guys are using wire wheels on tools, DON'T sell those tools to me afterwards! I can't abide the look of wire brushed tools, they are immediately banished.
Good thing for me I never sell tools then eh.
Neither a borrower, nor a lender, nor a seller be, hey that's me!
Where do you find wire wheel marks? If you find actual scratch marks from using a wire wheel on a grinder, you are using the wrong kind of wheel, perhaps too coarse. The wire wheel is the first thing I have ever turned to to clean tools, and I would not do that to my own tools. So you might try a wheel that is not so coarse, you might be surprised!
__________________
UB aka Uncle Buck<<<<
you nailed it right there Buck, I couldn't have put it better myself.
Now, let me see, do I want my tools eaten away by rust or do I want a few wire wheel marks on something that works for a living?
Tough call.
Originally Posted by Bolster View Post
Hey if you guys are using wire wheels on tools, DON'T sell those tools to me afterwards! I can't abide the look of wire brushed tools, they are immediately banished.
Good thing for me I never sell tools then eh.
Neither a borrower, nor a lender, nor a seller be, hey that's me!
Where do you find wire wheel marks? If you find actual scratch marks from using a wire wheel on a grinder, you are using the wrong kind of wheel, perhaps too coarse. The wire wheel is the first thing I have ever turned to to clean tools, and I would not do that to my own tools. So you might try a wheel that is not so coarse, you might be surprised!
__________________
UB aka Uncle Buck<<<<
you nailed it right there Buck, I couldn't have put it better myself.
Now, let me see, do I want my tools eaten away by rust or do I want a few wire wheel marks on something that works for a living?
Tough call.
old salvage
Well-known member
Bolster this picture is kind of small but which ones are brushed?
One should be very obvious.
Hmmm.
Is it that first long, double box end, on the right ?
Bob Paulin
Well-known member
I, too, use a Scotchbrite....with a little bit of Liquid Wrench penetrating oil - something an old machinist showed me.
It seems the LW leaves a little oil in the pores of the metal, and I find it works well to avoid future rusting especially on bare metal.
I sometimes use the wire wheel, but when working with bare metal or precision tools, I'd be afraid of the wire wheel taking material off and changing a critical dimension.
Bolster
Well-known member
That's a great example of a false dichotomy. There are more than two options: wire wheel or leaving rust alone.
Regarding the "finding the wire brushed tool" challenge, I can't see wire-brush grain in a small photo. If I could, I would not buy so danged many wire-brushed tools on eBay! (grrr) However, if you are only viewing your tools from a great distance, then I don't have a problem with wire brushing. You can't see it beyond several yards.
A (badly) wire brushed tool can be both pock-marked and shiny, but as you turn the tool, the shine changes as the brushed-in grain reflects light differently.
I don't doubt that someone skilled (thinking of a rehabilitated wrench posted by Elroy months ago...he used a sander...looked fantastic...) could do a great job of wire brushing. But the people who wire-brush tools to death on ebay and at local markets are not showing such skill.
For the record, I don't have the wire brush skill either. I'm much happier using rust removal products and a buffer, if they're required.
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Uncle Buck
Banned
Bolster this picture is kind of small but which ones are brushed?
One should be very obvious.
What looks to be a double box end Plomb/Proto, and the one with just the open end showing that is not clearly rested as is the one on the extreme left. I almost missed the combo just left of the double box. that one too.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
i guess the difference here is whether you are cleaning up a wrench to be used or as a collector tool. both has it's merits.
wire brushing would be fine depending on the item. as an example i saw a pebble grain line wrench yesterday, it was rusty and chrome peeling. it wouldn't matter to me if it was wire brushed to remove the rust (and chrome) because it would never be a good example of a collector tool just a tool to be used,
i also saw a pair of proto speeders with large knurled knobs........the guy wanted $100 for the 1/4 and $125 for the 3/8. i walked out of the shop quickly............
wire brushing would be fine depending on the item. as an example i saw a pebble grain line wrench yesterday, it was rusty and chrome peeling. it wouldn't matter to me if it was wire brushed to remove the rust (and chrome) because it would never be a good example of a collector tool just a tool to be used,
i also saw a pair of proto speeders with large knurled knobs........the guy wanted $100 for the 1/4 and $125 for the 3/8. i walked out of the shop quickly............
Kind of depends on how bad the rust is. Sometimes you got to get the sand blaster out. For the typical pawn shop score where something was initially chrome plated and rust has developed Elroy uses:
Notice what is says. Removes Rust. This stuff contains Oxalic Acid so it may not be for everyone.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalic_acid
Elroy typically mixes up a paste and uses a stainless steel scratch brush. It works very well on rust. Copper and brass comes out looking new as does stainless. It's good stuff with a scotch brite pad too.
Notice what is says. Removes Rust. This stuff contains Oxalic Acid so it may not be for everyone.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalic_acid
Elroy typically mixes up a paste and uses a stainless steel scratch brush. It works very well on rust. Copper and brass comes out looking new as does stainless. It's good stuff with a scotch brite pad too.
Merkava_4
Banned
The OP never got back to this thread did he? He asks the most vague questions on the face of the earth and then never gets back to the thread ... what the frick?