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Best way to secure workbench top to wall

Jay-El

New member
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
Messages
2
Hi from a new member!

I am upgrading -- ok, replacing -- my workbench, getting rid of the old door atop sawhorses and putting in a 1-7/8 maple butcher block, 30" deep and 96" long. I plan to have a couple of rolling cabinets underneath that will double as mobile tool bases or extra work surfaces.

I am planning to secure the back edge and one end to the garage wall (drywall over 2x4 studs, 16" on center). My thought was to use a 2x2 cleat lag-bolted into the studs and running the entire length and width of one end of the bench top (in the corner), then bolted into the bench top from underneath, with legs at the non-supported end only. I may bolt the legs to the floor (concrete) if there's any movement.

I'm not stacking engines on it or anything -- just woodworking, a little bit of pipe bending and threading, and supporting a vise, but I want it to be rock-solid and bow-free if somebody like me (230 lb) climbs or sits in the center of the span. I'm planning to use one leg set from Global Industrial at the end that's not secured to the wall. Do I need a center support as well? Does anyone have any additional suggestions, such as required bolt size, whether to use construction adhesive as well as the bolts, etc?

I would rather have a nice clean surface, so no bolting from the top -- I have that on another bench I inherited, and I'm constantly having to tweezer small parts and debris out of the holes where the bolt heads are recessed.

Here's the leg set I was planning to order from Global Industrial. It's possible to order just a single leg set (two legs) for one end.

249507BK.jpg


Thanks for all ideas, suggestions, "don't-do-that-you-dope" comments that will stop me from doing something stupid, etc.

PPS: I found Garage Journal after hearing about it a bunch of times on the Calguns forum.
 
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GN4WHLN

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May 8, 2009
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2,074
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Alta Loma, CA
You might look through the workbench thread on here for ideas. Here is what I did. I have a 10 foot long by 2 foot wide bench I built from square tube steel and has an oak top. I welded tabs onto the legs and lag bolted it to a 2X4 running horizontally along the back. I used 3/8 lag bolts with sway bar bushings on both sides to isolate any activity on the bench from the house since I have an attached garage. So far, so good. I have a receiver on it to take a vise, stock bender, bead roller, etc. It has been very solid for supporting those and keeps the noise down in the house if I am using a hammer on something in the vise. The bench puts the weight of it and any downward force into the ground while the lag screws keep it from rotating over if I am pulling on something like a bender. I didn't want any holes in the top to collect things and I have a back stop on it to keep things from rolling off the back. This bench is also for light (usually assembly) use. I have a pull out bench under it I roll out for metal or other dirty work.

Welcome to GJ. I think I also found it on Cal Guns.
 

Vinci

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
136
Mine is a 2x4 frame under the work top and the frame is lagged into all of the studs behind it. The bench is self-supporting, so the wall attachment is just for added stability.

In your case, I would definitely add a center support. 96" is just too long to be unsupported along the front. It would probably bounce annoyingly if you ever tried to bang on something toward the middle.
 

drmarkr

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 5, 2006
Messages
4,266
Location
Tucson
You'll absolutely need one center support. The cleat is probably overkill......but now that you've planned it that way, why not smile every time you set something up there and it feels solid as a rock?!? I used 4 L-brackets into studs and mine is pretty solid, but it's not mounted at either end.
 
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ducksface

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Oct 25, 2012
Messages
2,477
Using a credit card:
Wipe tube silicone across the top of those bolt holes you hate.
Now it's flush and still accessible in less than a minute.
TAAADAAAHHHH!
 
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J

Jay-El

New member
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
Messages
2
Using a credit card:
Wipe tube silicone across the top of those bolt holes you hate.
Now it's flush and still accessible in less than a minute.
TAAADAAAHHHH!

That would be the least painful use of my credit card in this entire build ;)
 
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DennisVog

Active member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Messages
31
I used 3/8 lag bolts with sway bar bushings on both sides to isolate any activity on the bench from the house since I have an attached garage. So far, so good. I have a receiver on it to take a vise, stock bender, bead roller, etc. It has been very solid for supporting those and keeps the noise down in the house if I am using a hammer on something in the vise.
I want to thank you for sharing this sway bar bushing idea. I implemented your suggestion in my garage and it has worked out great. Solid, but very well isolated.
 

rayra

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Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
4,724
Location
Escaped from Los Angeles
I'd secure a ledger board to the wall studs, positioned vertically to fit under the countertop and behind the back legs, secure the bench to the ledger.

it's what I did with my relocated workbench, along with the french cleat rails for the upper cabinets.
 

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