Best wiring path and dividing circuits

[jives]

I'm getting prepped to start pulling 12/2 wiring and would like the experts' advice on the
best route. In the pic below are three choices. Note that the pole barn has girts on the
outside (flat girt) and commercial (bookcase) girts on the inside. The metal siding is already
on. The cavities will be insulated (batt) and paneling installed. The paneling will be
screwed to the commercial girts.

The blue wiring path travels along the top of the commercial girt, the green runs along the
inside face of the flat girt but then must bend to fish behind the pole, and the yellow gets
stapled to the bottom of the flat girt. My preference would be the blue path. I envision 3
wires may travel this path. . . 2 wires for two receptacle circuits and another wire for a
switch.



The other question regards dividing up receptacle circuits. There will be about 14 outlets
on two difference circuits. How would you divide the circuits? Every other receptacle or 1/2
garage on one, 1/2 garage on the other? I'm thinking every other may help better prevent
overloading, because multiple tool use may tend to get plugged into receptacles next to
one another.

Thoughts?

 

[kmoon]

Jives,

When I wired the outlets in my shop I ran 12-3 and put double outlets in each location one outlet on each circuit. That way if you use outlet for high current you will pull from each side of the sub-panel.

 

[kmoon]

http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/wiring_multiple_receptacles.html

 

[sands35]

I'd only avoid the blue one if the concrete is going to be a problem. You'll need to staple it all down and the blue is the simplest from that perspective. How high will your outlets be? If 48" off the ground then you will add more wire if you choose the blue path.

Is the outside siding on? Will nails come through the outside OSB? You may need to check on protection or distances for that. (i.e., go through the 2x6 rather than around it).

I'd do a separate circuit per side. Unless you are going to have lots of people pulling power at the same time. Less wire to run.

Personally, I have a wood shop and the bigger equipment is all on 240 and the hand tools on 120. The 240 lets me bypass the CFCI requirement and not worry about blowing a 20 amp. Some of my 120 tools (my planer and chop saw will do this) will tend to draw a lot more if they have been sitting a long time without use and can pop the 20 amp breaker (~6 under cabinet lights are on same circuit though). The 240 stuff never does this.

 

[Cmreschke]

Blur path is ok but maybe pull it away from the outside wall before you go behind your posts just incase you have to send a screw from the outside. I would worry more about the corners though any path you choose I still have the same worry.
Wire is cheap right now so very other receptacle would be a ok. Even adding a third ckt doesn't hurt.you could always buy 2 different colored receptacles, white and black that helps to see what ckts your running off of. Looks kinda neat too.

 

[jives]

Jives,

When I wired the outlets in my shop I ran 12-3 and put double outlets in each location one outlet on each circuit. That way if you use outlet for high current you will pull from each side of the sub-panel.

Yeah, that already hurts my head. . .

I did forget to mention that the diagram is not accurate as to where the receptacles will be located and wire pulled. The pic shows the bottom 2 feet, which is the only close up pic I have. The wire will run just below the window at 4 feet above the floor, same as the receptacles.

 

[dw1]

Are these going to be GFI protected outlets? they need to be!! You could pull a circuit to the line side of a GFI outlet, then feed 4 more outlets off the load side of the GFI receptacle, three circuits- you would end up with 15 or so outlets all GFI protected

 

[Cmreschke]

Are these going to be GFI protected outlets? they need to be!! You could pull a circuit to the line side of a GFI outlet, then feed 4 more outlets off the load side of the GFI receptacle, three circuits- you would end up with 15 or so outlets all GFI protected

Should be I 100 % agree. But need to be? in a pole barn? Not so sure about that one.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

I know the green route is harder to do but I like the routing of it being under the board. Less likely to get something sat down on it. I know any shelf space in my garage wider than 3 in. gets something sat down on it.

 

[Mustang51js]

I would staple to the middle of that flat horizontal piece,the wood above the green line.

 

[dw1]

Should be I 100 % agree. But need to be? in a pole barn? Not so sure about that one.

210.8(A) 2 I just wired my pole barn last year and the inspector was looking for/checking all receptacles that they were GFI protected.
Here is one for the above pics from the OP, you could possibly have an issue running on top of the gerts by not having 1 1/4" protection (Clearance) from the nearest edge of the wood, check out 300.4 (2) (D) we had that discussion also. I ran my cables up high, on top of the gerts and stubbed down with a pvc sleeve into a box. I have since tore some of that out as I am now trying to finish some of my inside walls.

 

[Cmreschke]

Dw thanks for the 210 reference. Forgotten never again.

 

[simpler=better]

Reading comprehension guys: He's putting up insulation and paneling.

Staple the wire on top of the commercial gurts, right in the middle. This will get you a safe distance from everything. Up to you plastic vs steel staples.

If you need to get close to the paneling, make sure the wire is protected by a nail plate so you don't accidentally hit it when putting up shelves in the future.

 

[dw1]

Reading comprehension guys: He's putting up insulation and paneling.

Staple the wire on top of the commercial gurts, right in the middle. This will get you a safe distance from everything. Up to you plastic vs steel staples.

If you need to get close to the paneling, make sure the wire is protected by a nail plate so you don't accidentally hit it when putting up shelves in the future.

I read it, but what I was referring to, if a screw is put in the metal panels from outside, the wire is not protected by the 1 1/4". I realize the metal is finished, but later if you added anything, a lean to, addition ect. then what. I wasnt talking the inside.

Dw thanks for the 210 reference. Forgotten never again.

Your welcome.

 

[simpler=better]

we're still on different pages-I'm talking about the sideways guys.

The laying flat 2x6s are 5.5" wide, subtract 1" from the center for wiggly NM-B, he's left with 2.25"(4.5/2) from either edge

 

[jives]

Are these going to be GFI protected outlets? they need to be!! You could pull a circuit to the line side of a GFI outlet, then feed 4 more outlets off the load side of the GFI receptacle, three circuits- you would end up with 15 or so outlets all GFI protected

I did consider something along these lines, and will likely do this. It also seems best to run the wire along the top of the top of the bookcase girt, in the middle.

Thanks, all.

 

[lakeroadster]

OP: Have you considered surface mount using EMT? It allows for future changes, requires less wire.

 

[jives]

OP: Have you considered surface mount using EMT? It allows for future changes, requires less wire.

I did, and I still may. Given the fact that I want to have the insulation and paneling up in the next 6 weeks, I may need to do the wiring all after that. However, given that the garage is also used for indoor basketball, I was hoping to have the receptacles and switches protected in the walls.