Best workbench surface... opinions?

[cudacharlie]

If you could pick between butcher block, stainless-over-wood, or black phenolic resin countertop for your 8-foot workbench, what would you choose, and why?

Also, keep in mind that you need to pick the top surface for the two rollcabs that will fit underneath, and those could also have a ribbed-mat-retainer-top.

This means you could have, say, a butcher-block workbench with two rollcabs, one with a stainless top and one with a ribbed-mat top. Or, a phenolic resin workbench with two ribbed-mat rollcabs. Or, stainless all around.... Or........

(anybody care to guess which catalogs are under my pillow?)

What would you guys do, and why? Anyone love/hate butcherblock, resin, or stainless? I've only ever had butcherblock, and I tore it up pretty bad with nicks and stains....

Thanks!

 

[dboat]

I tend to like wood, but use a 1/4 ply on top that I screw down. Then I poly it.. After a while I replace it with another piece of ply.. this way when it gets too beat up, I can just redo the top very inexpensively.
Dana

 

[danski0224]

My workbench is 3/4" unfinished oak flooring with a coat of floor wax.

Yes, it will stain. Yes, it will get nicked up.

It's a workbench.

If I worked with oily parts constantly, then I would consider metal.

 

[bmwpower]

I think I know the stuff you're looking at...

Stainless for the stationary tops.

Easy to clean and very versitile. You can't really hurt it unless you use acid on it - which I don't know anyone who does. You could potentially dent it, but any parts that require heavy hitting, place a rubber mat under them.


Rubber mat for the rollcabs.

They have the backsplashes around the top to help keep parts from falling off. I have one and I throw a bunch of junk on it all the time. Without the sides, stuff would fall all over the place. I don't see the need for a resin or stainless top here.

If you design them right, the rubber matted rollcabs should fit under the stainless topped stationary cabs without a problem.

What height cabs are you looking at?

 

[BoostAddiction]

I'm sure you know what I chose...

But there are plenty of options, even outside the L**** catalog.

If I were building model airplanes, I'd go for a wood, or possibly granite top. If I were rebuilding engines and hauling dirty parts on the top, I'd consider stainless or galvanized. A unique option would be stained concrete: very tough, could even be colored throughout so chips wouldn't change the color and has the flexibility to be molded in ways other materials can't.

If I were mostly doing clean assembly, I'd use a solid-surface top like Corian or similar (I have a long top of this in my own garage).

You should also have some area where you can bang, smash and maybe even weld something to the surface to work it extra hard- so you will need some area with just a mild steel or similar top. Easy to cleanup, even dings can be welded and ground, and it looks good if you keep it worked (if you just ignore it, it tends to get a layer of surface rust).

-Will

 

[mdshore348]

i think im going to use black starboard material / cutting board plastic material/ it comes in 54 x 96 in sheets .1/2 in thick

 

[cudacharlie]

BoostAddict - I'll be having a bang+bash station (30"x36" or so) right next to the buff+grind area. I'd love to weld one up, as you did, but the only problem is.... I don't know how to weld or own a MIG. (perhaps this should be remedied ASAP...)

Anyway, I hate hammering on stuff on the loaded workbench, as it always sounds like a "Craftsman tambourine"; so a slice of a tree stump is my anvil for the moment. But, my main workbench will have a computer and shop manuals and stuff as well as tool storage and a work area, I'll want to keep it pretty clean and nice. Hence the lust for stainless.

I just didn't know if after a month I'd wish the stainless were butcher block instead, because SS is too slippery, or needs to be polished, or whatever.

bmwpower - You know what I'm thinking, don't you?

If you're familiar with the catalog under my pillow, I'm thinking 114"x30" ss-over-wood top, Nexus 48"x48" surface-mount starter frame (in the center) with one 30"x48" adder frame on either side, two 29"x30" upper cabinets (one each side, on the adder frames) and two 16"x24" upper cabinets in the center. This would appear to make a total Nexus frame width that will 'just' fit on a 114" surface. I just don't know if the surface-mount Nexus frames will hold the weight of the loaded upper cabs; for various reasons I'd love it if this beast were free-standing, meaning upper cabs don't mount to the wall. And using 13" high riser shelves with reinforcing side panels makes the 'cave' too low to really put a computer monitor and such in there, so that route is my least favorite way to support the upper cabs.

As for what goes underneath, the jury is still out, but it might be a pair of sc600 mobile cabs with retainer tops, with an mw900 (no base) and a 39.5" technical leg holding it all up. Still fiddling with drawer layouts, and hoping that the 114" length is practical, since it's a perfect fit in my garage. Obviously, 96" is more common and probably easier (and cheaper, of course)....

 

[REFLEXX]

I'm leaning toward 1/8" steel over wood (pick your thickness). But then add:

1. a piece of 1/8" rubber for delicate stuff or electrical work. Just unroll when necessary.

2. grey outdoor carpet for everyday use. not as cold/hot and cheap enough to toss away when bad. same thing, roll/unroll when necessary.

3. a piece of wood that's 4 foot long and as wide as your table. Harder to roll up, but just hide it when not needed.

So with a steel top, you have whatever you want, when you want it and nothing will harm it or stain it.

 

[OHEKK]

decisions...decisions!

I made an 8' top out of 1 1/2 plywood (that's right 1 1/2") Then poly cpoated it.

another bench top is an old stainless elevator door. re inforced and VERY solid!

a solid core door also makes a great top.

I too use a piece of wood, steel, rubber or carpet to protect the surface...depending on what I'm working on.

My old bench was plywood with a 1/8" galvanized top and I didn't like it

 

[EBodiesRule]

Starboard??

i think im going to use black starboard material / cutting board plastic material/ it comes in 54 x 96 in sheets .1/2 in thick

+++

What's Starboard? Where do you get it?

 

[BoostAddiction]

I just found a place today that will make stainless steel tops in any size for about $75 a sq ft. This is comparable to the Lista prices, but a wider range of finishes and sizes is available. For example, I could have gotten the 30" by 12' 5" stainless top I really wanted if I had known about them at the time I was doing my garage remodel.

They are Custom Metals of Virginia: 571/642-0111.

Cuda: you can get local people to weld up a welding table- it's probabaly cheaper than you might think.

-Will

 

[dboat]

+++

What's Starboard? Where do you get it?

I am guessing at a marine supply store.. its what they use on boats a lot.. very stable product..

in regard to the stainless or metal top.. dont forget its electrical conductivity if you are really planning to put a computer on top of it...

Dana

 

[XR7G428]

I hate working on stainless. It is slippery, screws and parts bounce off of it, and it is a pain to clean. Once it has been oil coated, it is hard to get it "dry". Rubber sheets are also a hassle. They are too expensive to throw away so you end up spending time cleaning them up. The ribbed ones are hard to get oil and grease to come off. I am interested in a good WORK surface, not a good SHOW surface.

I use a layer of 1/2" MDF over 1" of Particle Board. I use spray adhesive to lay trunk liner carpet over the MDF. When it gets dirty, I peel it off and roll out some more, it is very cheap. Nothing slides, everything that I put on the bench is protected, and screws stay where you put them. I can drill holes right thru what ever I am working on with out a concern. Worse case, I replace the particle board. If I am working on something that leaks (transmission), I roll out clear plastic sheet (visqueen) over the bench. When I am am done, I throw it away. The carpet also absorbs most small spills, and the whole thing is easy to vacuum off if needed.

 

[Remi]

I like to use white MDF 3/4" (1" if you can get it). Easy to clean, easy to see small parts on it. Cheap. I installed mine overtop of a exisiting plywood top by screwing it in from the bottom so it's easy to replace.

 

[bmwpower]

I hate working on stainless. It is slippery, screws and parts bounce off of it, and it is a pain to clean. Once it has been oil coated, it is hard to get it "dry"....

Nothing a little carb cleaner can't fix.

 

[ARAMP1]

I think it all depends on what you're primarly using the surface for. I've got a "dirty" workbench that I use to tear down carbs, etc. The top is stainless. I can spill all the oil, grease, etc and carb leaner takes care of it. Then I've got my "clean" bench for re-assembly and it is an MDF type counter top.

 

[bmwpower]

I think it all depends on what you're primarly using the surface for. I've got a "dirty" workbench that I use to tear down carbs, etc. The top is stainless. I can spill all the oil, grease, etc and carb leaner takes care of it. Then I've got my "clean" bench for re-assembly and it is an MDF type counter top.

I've thought about the difference, but why couldn't you use stainless for reassembly/clean area, too? Certainly it would be easier to clean a stainless top prior to using it for reassembly.

 

[Paradise Ridge]

Cuda,

I'm about a month out from building my new benches, otherwise I'd post a pic(grin).

What I do is build a frame out of 2x6 w/ stringers on 24" centers. Screw down two sheets of 3/4 cdx ply and flush rout the outside to fit the frame. Pick up a sheet of tempered hardboard and rout that to fit also. Don't fasten the tempered to the top.

With the bench in place, set the temperd on top and add 1x6 banding around the outside flush with the top of the tempered. Miter the 1x to give it a nice, finished look. I also add 1x2 on the outside top edge for a clamping spot.

Every couple of months I pop out the tempered and replace it. Brand new benches for a $20.00 bill.

FYI, I aso fasten my front legs at a 45 degree angle from the bottom front of the bench to the wall. Easy to sweep under, and nuthin' it the way of roll-a-rounds.

My nickels worth,

Scott

 

[mdshore348]

+++

What's Starboard? Where do you get it?

boat building supply company . its called king starboard, www.kingstarboard.com

 

[87GN]

I used 1/8" 6061 aluminum I got from the local race car chassis shop. It cost me $405 for
8' x2', 8' x 6" for the back stop, 6' x 2' , and 5' x 2' pieces. Drilled and countersunk holes for the wood screws and laid a bead of aluminum siding sealer between the bottom and backdrop on the one bench. They were a lot cheaper than the local steel supply company.

Mark

 

[tubeman]

Stainless steel work tables rock! I've had all types and the SS is the best. You can clean up the worse scratches etc. with 600 grit wetsandpaper. I just buy the used restuarant work tables fo $!-2 hundred bucks. Just drill through to bolts your vise, etc.

 

[don953]

I've got two sheets of unpainted 3/4 MDF on my bench. The problem is I spilled a little water on and it swelled where the water puddled. I saw something called Melamine in Home Depot. It was 3/4 thick. Looks like MDF or particle board with a white coating on it. Maybe like white MDF. Has anybody ever tried or heard of that?

 

[wienerwater]

Melamine is the same material cheaper cabinets/drawers are made from. I used it in my last shop and built all my cabinets/drawers and then with a 1' thick plywood top, had a local hyvac company cut and bend my sheetmetal for the top covering.
Edging for the melamine comes in a roll, and is ironed on and trimmed. I like it for cabinets, as it is nice to work with, and wipes clean, no staining etc.

 

[don953]

Thanks for the reply. I guess I have seen it on cabinets just never heard it called Melamine before. I guess it would hold up for a workbench surface.

 

[sjsfire]

I have a 3 inch thick 3'x6' maple butchers block top that I got for free, It even had a 4inch jaw bench vise with it. When it starts looking bad I sand it down and put a new coat of laquer on it. It's held up really good I've it for over 20 years. When I got moved into my new house I got a couple of 3ft steel base cabinets and repainted them. For that top I got a 3/4 sheet of plywood, cut it in 2-2ftx6ft sections and glued and screwed it together. I then attached a piece hard masonite, trimed the sides with pine, and then laquered the whole thing. It's cheap and it looks nice.

 

[Speed Shop]

I made 2 benches using 3/4" plywood, then topped with 1/4" masonite. When the masonite gets beat up, you can unscrew it and put down a fresh sheet. Mine has been on the bench for quite a few years. The benches were quick and easy to make and maintain.

 

[89vert]

I am still struggling with this issue myelf. I have built my workbench top out of two pieces of 3/4 " plywood covered with 1/4" MDF
My plan was to glue some 18 Ga.stainless over top . I brought a piece home from Metal Supermarket and I do like how it cleans up and it appears to be fairly bullet proof.

I have cabinets over my bech that I have installed halogen Puck lights for task lighting .The glare from the stainless is really apparent .

Has anybody else wrestled with this ?

 

[bmwpower]

I am still struggling with this issue myelf. I have built my workbench top out of two pieces of 3/4 " plywood covered with 1/4" MDF
My plan was to glue some 18 Ga.stainless over top . I brought a piece home from Metal Supermarket and I do like how it cleans up and it appears to be fairly bullet proof.

I have cabinets over my bech that I have installed halogen Puck lights for task lighting .The glare from the stainless is really apparent .

Has anybody else wrestled with this ?

Have you considered putting a brushed finish on it?

 

[maniac]

I got 2 4'X8" sheets of 1/8 diamond plate, brand new for $100.00 for both, my work bench is 33" X 14' wide, I cut them down and put the unfinished edges toward the wall.

Put them on upside down on top of 3/4" plywood, and used counter sunk screws, pretty bulletproff, but they sure were heavy to lift by myself though

 

[Hooligan]

Has anyone ever thought of getting a workbench top coated with a spray in bedliner?

 

[04 Navi]

How about this? http://www.lumberliquidators.com/shopping/add.asp?product_id=297

 

[tubeman]

I use mine for welding so the Rhino liner stuff wouldn't work. The nice thing about welding on a stainless table is that the ground attaches to the table and you just lay the piece on the table and weld. Most of what I do is TIG so no mess or spatter.

 

[Luke73]

I have two treadmill decks that I made my bench tops out of. It is a very tough fiber board that has a plastic coating on it. The decks have wax on the outside to keep the belts from sticking on the teadmill. So oil and fluids don't stick. Best they were free at work when we got new decks installed.

Luke

 

[Wildfire]

My roll around box from Kennedy has a bedliner coated board on top. Its great for that.

I bought one of the Sams club 6' work benches the other day, figured I couldn't build one for the money. It has a 1-1/2" maple top.

There will also be a rolling welding table with 1/2 plate for the surface.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Depends on the area. My clean bench where I do electronics is Formica on 3/4 ply. I may lay tools and books there but I don't like putting anything dirty on it.

My dirty bench is ply but its a pain to clean. $25 a sheet of 4x8 .030 6061 aluminum is going to be put over the top to make clean up easy and at $25 its not going to kill me to replace it every once in a while. Going to do the same on my rolling bench.

Rolling low bench /Welding table/ heavy repair (engine blocks trannys hammering on stuff) I want to build will be 1/4 plate top.

 

[jeepgod]

my work bench is 3/4" plywood... topped with aluminum sheet..... i get the aluminum from work for free... and it holds up really well...

 

[89vert]

Just bought 16 gauge 304 Stainless with a # 4 brushed finish.

Looks great and should be a breeze to keep clean.

I installed it over 2 pieces of 3/4 "plywood with 1/4" MDF on top.

 

[bmwpower]

I need to revive this thread. I'm in need of some tops to finish up my garage. Keep in mind, I need 84 square feet. I need some advice on which to get. I will have one commercial stainless sink which will be dropped into a cutout in the top.

(1) 1-3/4" stainless over wood core tops - price ~$2500

(2) 1-3/4" industrial butcher block tops - price ~$1800

Either way, I'm going to build a separate 1/4" or so steel topped table to bang stuff on, weld, etc.

 

[kartracer55]

I was thinking... It'd make sense to install a surface plate leveled and recessed into the worksurface off to the side, no? I mean, how nice would it be to have a perfectly flat level surface you can always depend on?

Jim

 

[bmwpower]

I was thinking... It'd make sense to install a surface plate leveled and recessed into the worksurface off to the side, no? I mean, how nice would it be to have a perfectly flat level surface you can always depend on?

Jim

I'm not sure I follow. How big of an area are we talking about? I was hoping the tops would be as level as possible.