Better than T1-11

[theoldwizard1]

I want to build a shed. 4x8 foot print. Lean-to roof, 7' high side, down to 6'. It will be built on a 1x6 floor about 12" off the ground, so ground contact and drainage are not an issue.

Looking for 4'x8' panels that will outlast typical T1-11. Pre-painted is a bonus ! 3/8" LP SmartSide seems pretty flimsy.

 

[cgrutt]

You can buy 4x8 pvc in either 1/2 or 3/4. Reversible with flat or wood grain texture (no channels like T1-11). Expensive but won't rot.

 

[kwb]

12" off the ground with splash back from rain isn't all that high.
Factor snow for some months of the year in MI.
Bottom of any wood based sheeting/siding is probably going to be a challenge. Staying up on paint will make a big difference.

Hardie has panels that probably are better cost option than PVC.

I would do whatever to match the existing building you are leaning to regardless of materials. If it was a stand alone shed other options would open up to me.

 

[BillK]

Looking for 4'x8' panels that will outlast typical T1-11. Pre-painted is a bonus ! 3/8" LP SmartSide seems pretty flimsy.

What do you consider "outlast" ??? The T111 on my house has been there since the house was built in 1978. painted it once about 20 years ago and it needs paint again but other than that it is fine.

Same with the T111 on my detached garage which is starting to break up at the bottom but that is mostly my fault for not having enough overhang and no gutters so it had a lot of water splashed on it for the first 15 years of its life and I only painted it once when we built it in 1982 or so.

You can get Smart Side in different thicknesses. If I remember correctly the 3/8" does not qualify as a shear panel. The 76 series is thicker.

Make sure you have plenty of overhang so the water off the roof wont splash up on it.

 

[kwb]

My experiences with T1-11 have also been pretty favorable for durability. Always 5/8" plywood based, not OSB. Take the time to back roll and brush in the grooves which is a PITA the first go around.
Overhang & Gutters are just good practice regardless of siding material. I have cedar that has not held up to locations that have splashback problems.

 

[gahrajmahal]

I bought into LP Smart side panels in 2017. I replaced the south wall of my T1-11 sided house with it. I’m currently paying someone to replace it with Hardi panels because it has rotted in several places

 

[pembol]

Hardie panel over Zip.

 

[crguy]

I used Hardie panels for my storage shed, figure they will outlast me easily.

 

[LopezBart]

T1-11 will last if and only if you keep it stained/painted. Left exposed to the sun/rain w/o protection, it will go away. The shop we built on my dad's property in 1976 was sheathed in T1-11; he basically did no maintenance on it other than the original stain. The T1-11 exposed to the sun is basically gone; the stuff under an overhang and shaded is still fine.

 

[NUTTSGT]

What about looking at some discount/old stock/clearance vinyl siding at Menard or other big box store ? Put it up and not worry about painting it.

 

[mm08822]

Prime and top coat the t-111 sheets laying flat before installing. You'll get a lot more paint into the wood laying flat.

Prime any cuts and nail holes after install. Then a final top coat over every thing.

I built a playhouse like this and that original coat paint has lasted very well - 25 yrs.

Based of playhouse made of 2x8 PT lumber. Siding above grass about 6". Hasn't rotted!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Same with the T111 on my detached garage which is starting to break up at the bottom but that is mostly my fault for not having enough overhang and no gutters so it had a lot of water splashed on it for the first 15 years of its life and I only painted it once when we built it in 1982 or so.

Big problem around here ! Most people have to replace the bottom 2' after about 10 years.

You can get Smart Side in different thicknesses. If I remember correctly the 3/8" does not qualify as a shear panel. The 76 series is thicker.

Good advice !

 

[Renegade1LI]

What about metal panels for roof & walls, prepainted & easy to handle.

 

[danfromsyr]

I have LP smartside panels on my back shed in their original tan primer coat..
been hanging there for 25years..

the cutoffs only got punky when I left them in the wood pile of pine needles for 10+years.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have LP smartside panels on my back shed in their original tan primer coat..
been hanging there for 25years..

I did not know that was a PRIMER !

The 50 warranty requires that it have a top coat !

 

[theoldwizard1]

You can get Smart Side in different thicknesses. If I remember correctly the 3/8" does not qualify as a shear panel. The 76 series is thicker.

From LP Website

	Minimum thickness
Series 38	.354 about 3/8"
Series 76	.418 about 7/16"
Series 190	.578 about 9/16"

 

[danfromsyr]

yeah, it probably won't make 50yrs on my chicken coop..
I'm using 2 LP 76 panels as doors, untreated and barely sheltered on either side..

imo the 3/8 is a 'hobby' & trim panel, I use it for under the soffits etc..
the LP has a hard surface coating that does chip in cutting&handling. I don't prefer their trim pieces for this reason. but the front of my house is trimmed with it and time will tell.

 

[Uncle murph]

I want to build a shed. 4x8 foot print. Lean-to roof, 7' high side, down to 6'. It will be built on a 1x6 floor about 12" off the ground, so ground contact and drainage are not an issue.

Looking for 4'x8' panels that will outlast typical T1-11. Pre-painted is a bonus ! 3/8" LP SmartSide seems pretty flimsy.

T1 11 is tough to beat,excellent structurally,looks good and holds up great with little maintenance bearing in mind what others have said about letting water splash on it.

 

[Skyman]

I built a shed with T1-11 almost 35 years ago. I primed and painted it once, and neglected the hell out of it thereafter. No gutters, and minimal overhang. The only two punky areas were small when I sold the property it sat on a coupla years ago. Seemed pretty good to me.

 

[u2slow]

I use the 5/8" all-wood type t1-11. Last time I had to place a special order of 10 sheets to get a sane price.

Where I don't have generous overhangs, or a tall wall, I'm using metal siding panels. No **** joints to worry about.

 

[MushCreek]

I used the cheapest LP siding for my 8x12 shed. It's 12' tall, and is plenty strong enough. 4x8 x 7' tall is a tiny shed. My big barn is T1-11, and is starting to rot near the bottom after only 14 years. I'm going to remove the bottom 3 or 4 feet and replace it with something. Haven't decided what yet.

 

[CraigStu]

White smooth pvc sheet is also available in 3/8"

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Royal-Mouldings-Limited-Actual-0-375-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-Common-Board-PVC-Board/1001854024

 

[CV428]

I built a shed with T1-11 siding around 2002, and it's still doing fine according to Google Maps haha. Just don't let it make ground contact, and paint all exposed areas and it does just fine.

The shed in my front yard is vinyl siding over OSB, had it for 8 years and it still looks brand new. I elevated it 2' off the ground and latticed the bottom.

Or, you could do what someone in my town did... and raid dumpsters for scrap metal. This one nut about a mile from me built a 2-car garage using metal roofing scrap. It looks like something out of Borderlands or Mad Max, but it has been standing for many years.

 

[Jackfre]

I’ve gone Hardi on everything for siding. PO installed a deck that led to rotting of the bottom of the T-111. I replaced that with Hardi as well. No question it is hard for me to handle the weight now, but I like the product and the looks

 

[dave*99]

I live near the coast. I see lots of older homes with T1-11 on garages, but not in new construction. Newer homes have 4x8 Hardie panels which seem to hold up well in this environment. Note that the Hardie panels require a double stud at the seams.

 

[karoc]

How bout metal wainscoting?

 

[racecougar]

I'll third or fourth the recommendation for sheetmetal.