Bicycle Tools - What's it take?

[HoosierBuddy]

So, my 20+ year old Trek has finally started crapping out on me. I thought about replacing it, but I don't really ride enough to justify a new one, so instead I decided to replace the crankset (broken teeth) and bottom bracket (bad bearings) front derailleur (sticky) and chain (recommended replacement is "annually". Mine was from 1994).

Funny how it is impossible on a bike to do ANYTHING with out the right tools! Who would have guessed?

So my latest tool additions are:

Bottom Bracket removal Socket (Shimano)
Crankset removal tool (Park Tool)
Chain Removal Tool (Topeak)

The good news is, those tools are all fairly cheap (less than $15 each).

I actually took the old crankset off without the Park Tool the first time. Took about half an hour. With the Park Tool...more like 45 seconds.

What other bicycle specific tools do we all need?

Phil

 

[bonneyman]

I think a third hand brake tool is a must. It holds the calipers in while you pull the cable tight with one hand while tightening the nut with the other hand. You kinda need three hands. Hence, the tool!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ILJXXT2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I am also old school, and run freewheels if I can. Having the right free wheel remover for your style is an immense help, as it's easier to clean those when they are off the bike. Since I've done alot of bike repairs/servicing, I tend to watch for FW tools and snag them whenever I see them. Have quite a collection now - probably at least a dozen styles.

Cassettes need special tools too, but they can usually be disassembled on the wheel and cleaned.

Keep that old Trek! They don't make like they used to. As long as the frame is solid, keep that puppy running.

 

[todd_fuller]

You'll probably want to get a chain breaker, chain whip and a cassette socket. At 20yrs, the chain and cog set are probably shot. While you can get new chains that do not need a master link pressed in, you'll likely have to break the old one and shorten the new one with the chain breaker.

To remove the cassette for replacement, you need the chain whip to hold the cassette while you unscrew the lock ring. The lock ring has an internal toothed profile that you need the cassette tool to remove, a lot like the bottom bracket.

I would also replace all the cables and housings, wash it good and add some decent light lube to the drivetrain pivot points.

 

[valentine]

A good workstand is a must if you really want to be able to service your bicycle properly. It lets you raise the bike to a comfortable working height and will suspend it so that the wheels can spin, gears and brakes will function. It's very hard to do brake and gear adjustments with wheels on the ground. Get a good stand.

-Valentine

 

[Buckgnarly]

cone (really thin) wrenches

 

[altersaddle]

To rebuild cup and cone wheel hubs, you will need cone wrench(es), grease, and a supply of ball bearings (3/16" and 1/4"). You can make a cone wrench by grinding down a regular one, but it's better to buy a real one. I have a single 13mm / 15mm double cone wrench.

To pull your cassette, you should also have a chain whip. I survived for years with a homemade one that was an old chain screwed onto a chunk of hardwood. A real whip is certainly easier to use and probably safer.

It's easier to remove freewheels if you can keep the tool stationary and use the wheel and tire to undo it. Some of those are extremely tight. I've had to dismantle a damaged freewheel and remove the guts with vice-grips and heat. That's more of a last resort though - parts are cheap.

A good spoke wrench is necessary for truing wheels. A wheel truing stand is not.

A long 15mm wrench is good for removing pedals.

A length of steel pipe (I use EMT) and a long screwdriver are useful for replacing headsets on old steel bikes. I don't know what the new integrated headsets do.

I have some obscure tools that only get used once in a while - a dent pusher for curing wheel hops, headset press, and derailleur hanger alignment tool. I'll photograph the tool board tonight.

We have a bike co-op here that has a really good selection of the specialty bike tools - that may be a good resource if you have one locally.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Great tool ideas guys!

Keep that old Trek! They don't make like they used to. As long as the frame is solid, keep that puppy running.

Yeah, I think I will. I recall I paid $400 for that bike at a time when I really didn't have $400 to spend on something like that. Before that, I'd bought a "box store" Huffy and destroyed the bearings in less than 2 weeks. They gave me a new one and I destroyed it even faster. So I got a refund and put that and another $300 on the Trek 730 MultiTrack.

The tools to do what I've done so far have actually been the easy part. The hard part is figuring out what new parts will work with it. That's sort of been "trial and error". Luckily I've got Amazon Prime so shipping is free.

I like the idea of getting a new rear cassette and rear derailleur. But, I'm not sure what on earth I'd need. The existing setup is all Shimano alivio stuff with the old-school twist grip shifters. Other than knowing the cassette is 7 gears, and obviously I can count the teeth...I'm assuming Shimano has 15 different offsets and what not so I'd have to get the right one?

Without any confidence I can buy the correct replacement, I'm hesitant to try as the shifting action is very good on the back.

 

[Maui]

If you get a bike stand remember to clamp on the seat post and DO NOT CLAMP ON THE FRAME! More than one bike frame has been ruined because somebody decided it was a good idea to clamp down on the seat tube.

Maui

 

[Vantastic]

My most used bike tool is a pedal wrench. I have one in every vehicle. I buy a lot of vintage bikes and it is much easier to jam them in the car if the pedals are removed.
I like the park tool with the 9/16 and 15mm end.

 

[90zcar]

I have these laying in my toolbox from when I rode bmx. A 3 piece crank remover and a freewheel tool. I myswell toss em in the trash



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[lilredex]

A truing stand is nice to have if you scavenge wheels. Here is one that is easily made and takes up very little storage room. It can be bench mounted, as shown, or used in a vise.

 

[Blt2Lst]

A truing stand is nice to have if you scavenge wheels. Here is one that is easily made and takes up very little storage room. It can be bench mounted, as shown, or used in a vise.

Nice job on the truing stand, I need to make one for myself.

 

[rice rocket]

The specialty stuff all differs depending on your components. Nowadays, cranksets are all pinch bolts and press in cartridge bearings, so you'd need an arbor press instead of those funky splined specialty tools.

 

[mv213]

In addition to the 3rd hand tool that Bonneyman mentioned, you should have a cable cutter. It will cut the brake and shifter cables and housings without flattening or damaging them. I ordered mine along with the 3rd hand tool and brake cable from Amazon but they are available from bike parts houses also.

This is the one I ordered, the Pedro's is a little cheaper and may be just as good, I don't know. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OZBINY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[bonneyman]

Great tool ideas guys!



Yeah, I think I will. I recall I paid $400 for that bike at a time when I really didn't have $400 to spend on something like that. Before that, I'd bought a "box store" Huffy and destroyed the bearings in less than 2 weeks. They gave me a new one and I destroyed it even faster. So I got a refund and put that and another $300 on the Trek 730 MultiTrack.

The tools to do what I've done so far have actually been the easy part. The hard part is figuring out what new parts will work with it. That's sort of been "trial and error". Luckily I've got Amazon Prime so shipping is free.

I like the idea of getting a new rear cassette and rear derailleur. But, I'm not sure what on earth I'd need. The existing setup is all Shimano alivio stuff with the old-school twist grip shifters. Other than knowing the cassette is 7 gears, and obviously I can count the teeth...I'm assuming Shimano has 15 different offsets and what not so I'd have to get the right one?

Without any confidence I can buy the correct replacement, I'm hesitant to try as the shifting action is very good on the back.

IIRC, Allivio wasn't top of the line Shimano. So, any gruppo you get should work for you. I'd recommend against going more than 7 speeds in the back. 8 speeds and up started thinning the chains and gears to get things to fit. (That's why broken chains and cogs wearing out after only a year happen).

I believe IRD cog sets are Shimano-compatable. Really stretching the brain cells here - it's been awhile! So, you could get a decent new rear derailler and an IRD rear cluster and still have index shifting with your old shifters if they're not too worn. You'd have to research and see.

http://www.interlocracing.com/cassettes-freewheels/

 

[iScream]

Just posting to subscribe. I've got a Cannondale F900 I bought in 1999 but it's been sitting for years. Been staring at it some lately trying to decide what to do with it.

 

[Fugio]

I rebuild and restore bikes as a side business. Mostly old Chicago Schwinn cruisers.

But I take a lot of high end bikes in trade to flip. Many need service or repairs.

Really there's not a lot you need. A good tire lever (NOT screwdrivers!), talcum powder, a 15mm wrench. Those are the must haves.

Then figure out what your bike requires and do NOT buy anything that isn't made by Park Tools. They are the Snap-On of bike tools. Not as expensive as Snap-On, but not cheap either. But anything else won't be as good. Trust me on this one.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask!

 

[honcho]

I rebuild and restore bikes as a side business.
Then figure out what your bike requires and do NOT buy anything that isn't made by Park Tools. They are the Snap-On of bike tools. Not as expensive as Snap-On, but not cheap either. But anything else won't be as good. Trust me on this one.

Park, like Snap-On, offers a complete line of bike tools but, just like the tool business in general, there are plenty of other manufacturers of good bike tools. For home use, the sets made by Lifu of Taiwan are good and very cost effective. Hozan of Japan and Pedros both have very good tools. Unior of Europe is another manufacturer but they are uncommon in the United States. Shimano and Campagnolo both manufacture tools for their specific products. The Performance Bike Shop brand tools are good as well. If you get a stand, the Park Professional Shop Stand is kind of an industry standard but I don't have that high an opinion of their portable stands.

The Nashbar essential tool kit pictured which sells for about $50 and is made, I believe, by Lifu of Taiwan, will get the home mechanic through most ordinary repairs. I started with a kit like this and gradually upgraded the tools that I found lacking or just used the most and wanted a better quality version from Park or other manufacturers.

 

[altersaddle]

I like the idea of getting a new rear cassette and rear derailleur. But, I'm not sure what on earth I'd need. The existing setup is all Shimano alivio stuff with the old-school twist grip shifters. Other than knowing the cassette is 7 gears, and obviously I can count the teeth...I'm assuming Shimano has 15 different offsets and what not so I'd have to get the right one?

Without any confidence I can buy the correct replacement, I'm hesitant to try as the shifting action is very good on the back.

I'm with the others. Stay with 7 speeds. Parts are cheaper and will last longer.

Any modern 7-speed cassette should fit, unless you go to crazy extremes. I would avoid the "Mega Range" branded ones, those extra large crawler gears won't see much use. Replace the chain at the same time. A larger cassette just needs a longer chain, and possibly some adjustment of the tension on the rear derailleur.

I use Sun Race because I can get them super cheap at MEC.

Carefully inspect everything before replacing parts. Cables and cable housing can make a huge difference in shift performance, and if the action is good now, it's probably fine. Unless you hate grip shifts.

Nobody has mentioned Sheldon Brown's impressive web site - it's got tons of good info on a huge range of bicycle topics. I link specifically to the repair section but it goes on for miles of early-Internet glory.

 

[rodsnratfinks]

do NOT buy anything that isn't made by Park Tools. They are the Snap-On of bike tools.

I wouldn't say Park tool is equivalent to Snap On at all. The quality of park tool for most things is at the 'good enough' level. If you want the real good stuff, you usually have to go vintage and/or oem. Vintage Campagnolo is the high water mark for bike tools, most would agree. For modern drivetrains, generally the OEM makes the best tool for a given component, IE: the Shimano spline cassette lockring tool made by Shimano is the best for Shimano freehubs; likewise for a Campagnolo tool for Campagnolo freehubs. But, for a Sram cassette, Shimano is the gold standard, since Shimano invented that freehub type. The said, Park certainly makes a good tool, but I would equate them more to S-K or Gearwrench than Snap On.
/semantics

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[1foxracing]

I'm 98% Park Tool, don't forget a repair stand as well.

 

[acer66]

In addition to the 3rd hand tool that Bonneyman mentioned, you should have a cable cutter. It will cut the brake and shifter cables and housings without flattening or damaging them. I ordered mine along with the 3rd hand tool and brake cable from Amazon but they are available from bike parts houses also.

This is the one I ordered, the Pedro's is a little cheaper and may be just as good, I don't know. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OZBINY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The Park Tool cable cutter is the worst PT product I ever owned
and while I do not have an impressive collection like 1foxracing I have quite a few.

 

[Ign]

You'll probably want to get a chain breaker, chain whip and a cassette socket. At 20yrs, the chain and cog set are probably shot. While you can get new chains that do not need a master link pressed in, you'll likely have to break the old one and shorten the new one with the chain breaker.

To remove the cassette for replacement, you need the chain whip to hold the cassette while you unscrew the lock ring. The lock ring has an internal toothed profile that you need the cassette tool to remove, a lot like the bottom bracket.

I would also replace all the cables and housings, wash it good and add some decent light lube to the drivetrain pivot points.

Don't even screw w a chain whip! Put the appropriate lock ring spanner on a SMALL impact driver, hold the cassette w a rag or gloved hand, and zip that puppy right off of there. Actually far safer than manually because you're not slowly loading, loading, loading........SLIP! and busted knuckles with LONG LEVERS.

Ditto for pedal removal if setup for a hex hey thru the crank.

Again, the key is a baby impact, don't use a 1/2" drive. And only use it for loosening, always reinstall by hand.

Oh and OP, your crank didn't have broken teeth as cranks don't have teeth. Your front "gears" are chain rings, rear is cogs, and the cogs as a group (not to be confused w grouppo) form a cassette.

 

[bonneyman]

BikeTools (formerly Bicycle Research Tools) manufactures all sorts of repair tools in the USA.

What I especially like is that they make freewheel removers for many of the old obsolete (lol) freewheel designs that DIY mechanics run into at yard sales and stuff. For a while there I was grabbing every freewheel tool I could find. A couple of the older, rarer ones I still don't have. But I keep looking.

Personally I stick with the Sachs 7-speed freewheel in back and two rings up front. Friction shift, but after so many years I know by feel how far to flick the lever to get a crisp shift.

http://www.bicycletool.com/

 

[altersaddle]

Here's my cycling tool board:



Instead of a third hand I have a cable stretcher tool.

The dent pusher, headset press, and "stubborn lock ring remover" are shop-made.

Nails along the bottom had metric combo wrenches.

Y-shaped allen and socket wrenches are super handy. I haven't bothered buying / making a socket one, but when I spent some time volunteering at the community bike shop they were very useful.

Not shown: Park PCS-1 bike stand, chain cleaner, bench vise, and boxes of blue nitrile gloves.

 

[bonneyman]

This thread inspired me to take a pic of my freewheel removers. Also have a couple of bottom bracket removers in the pic, too.

 

[Can I try?]

I'll add a hex y-wrench to the discussion. You can do a lot on a bike with this basic tool, at least on the newer stuff.

I wouldn't say Park tool is equivalent to Snap On at all. The quality of park tool for most things is at the 'good enough' level. If you want the real good stuff, you usually have to go vintage and/or oem. Vintage Campagnolo is the high water mark for bike tools, most would agree. For modern drivetrains, generally the OEM makes the best tool for a given component, IE: the Shimano spline cassette lockring tool made by Shimano is the best for Shimano freehubs; likewise for a Campagnolo tool for Campagnolo freehubs. But, for a Sram cassette, Shimano is the gold standard, since Shimano invented that freehub type. The said, Park certainly makes a good tool, but I would equate them more to S-K or Gearwrench than Snap On.
/semantics

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+1 on this.

I support Park, and own many of their tools, but I wouldn't compare them to Snap on. I think Campy tools would be the better comparison there. What Park did right was offer a dependable, comprehensive tool lineup that was readily available to consumers. Tool ergonomics was never a priority for Park.

IMO, where Park has messed up is in their latest offerings of general hand tools that are produced overseas. These tools get bad reviews because they're below the traditional Park quality level, but still sold at Park premium prices. Hopefully, they don't destroy their brand by going in this direction.

 

[rice rocket]

Park is the most comprehensive for sure, but some of their pricing is outrageous. Their headset press, consisting of a threaded rod, two washers, and two nuts welded to some sheet metal, is 70 effin dollars. Get real.

 

[babylou]

Combined cost for tools and spares will exceed the cost of lightly used 1 or 2 year old bike and the newer bikes are a step up in performance.

 

[babylou]

Oh and OP, your crank didn't have broken teeth as cranks don't have teeth. Your front "gears" are chain rings, rear is cogs, and the cogs as a group (not to be confused w grouppo) form a cassette.

Since you are picking nits it's "gruppo"

 

[bigjake22]

One of the specific tools the OP will probably need at some point are headset wrenches. That 1994 Trek 730 still had a threaded headset, and those are much easier to properly adjust with thin wrenches. Also, if you're replacing a 20 year old chain, you're probably gonna have to replace the 20 year old cassette, and possibly the 20 year old chainrings, or else you're likely to get lots of skipping with the new chain on the old worn gears.

As with any job, the specialty tools you'll need are the ones specific to the task at hand.

Here's an interesting take on bike mechanic essentials, without getting into too much specific stuff. My apron at work isn't set up exactly like that, but I probably carry around about as much stuff. (I too am a professional bike mechanic.)

 

[bigjake22]

And for what it's worth, EVT is way more comparable to Snap-On than Park.

 

[bczygan]

Wow.

I don't recognize what most of those pictured tools are, or how they're used.

Anyone care to elucidate?

Bill

 

[rice rocket]

It's mostly sockets and wrenches to remove specialty lockrings and such. The bicycle industry evolved separately in several places (England, Italy, France), and they all had their own set of standards. Hell, they each have their own thread pitch for the exact same things even.

Thankfully standards are converging some, you'll see Shimano splined lockrings on a ton of stuff now, bottom brackets are all pressfit or 1.37 x 24 TPI. Pinch bolts on cranks is becoming more common so you don't have to use a tool to press it off the shaft, etc.

Problem is, bikes last forever, open a shop and you'll see anything from the last 50 years come through the door, and then you need the hundreds of tools to service them.

 

[rodsnratfinks]

Park is the most comprehensive for sure, but some of their pricing is outrageous. Their headset press, consisting of a threaded rod, two washers, and two nuts welded to some sheet metal, is 70 effin dollars. Get real.

I made my own with all-thread.

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[Flat-rate]

I have a chit load of bike tools, most are Park, including the TS-2 truing stand.

My favorite is the DAG-1 derailleur hanger checker/bender. I keep it in the car, always amazes my riding buds when I fix their shifting problems at the trail head parking lot.

 

[Matt Irvine]

Being a young bloke, I Still have and ride bmx.. Lots of fun toys there, crank removal tools, cause someone decided every set needs a different tool.. plain old spoke keys, tapered hex spoke keys, pin wrenches for headset compression, the top of the line stuff always needed something different.

 

[rodsnratfinks]

I have a chit load of bike tools, most are Park, including the TS-2 truing stand.

My favorite is the DAG-1 derailleur hanger checker/bender. I keep it in the car, always amazes my riding buds when I fix their shifting problems at the trail head parking lot.

Lucky, that's one of my most hoped for tools. I hate having to adjust bent hangers by trial and error, one of these days, I want to do it right, I KNOW that my frames are true. I just can't handle less than absolutely flawless shifting on any of my bikes.

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[uart]

I'm 98% Park Tool, don't forget a repair stand as well.

That's a nice bike kit you've got there foxracing. You don't happen to have a secret identity do you.

 

[6-Speed]

My collection of bike tools started while I rebuilt my 1979/1980 Trek 12-Speed. They were still made in Wisconsin back in those days. I did replace the old bottom bracket with a cartridge type but other than that it still has all original parts.