also get tools that work with your bike. dont need a crank puller if you have a newer style outbourd bb crank or press in bb crank, most are self extracting these days. cheapo bikes have freewheels. good bikes have cassettes. bondhus is good stuff. just snapped the tip off a eklind t handle torx yesterday. most sealed bearing hubs dont use cone wrenchs. again really depends on the components.
really dude?
older bikes had them.....like my pre War IVES, still got its original free wheel, ReginaExtra chain, NISI tubular rims x4 laced with 15-17ga spokes to Campy low flange steel center hubs
its forged steel cranks weigh the same or less than Shimano DuraAce and are indestructible unlike the Jap ****
on my DiamondBack i get 2,700-2,800mi to a chain and its DONE
i bend DuraAce sprockets and destroy aluminum cranks
i never change down from the 53 tooth chain ring and never get off the saddle (my seat is ~3" higher than the formula says)
check anthropometric data and you'll understand

flatlands, i run a corncob, hills, i have 3 gear sets, big, medium and little
my neighbor Michael bought me a Park truing stand.....i put 2 dial indicators on it.....my wheels are within 0.003-5" axial and radial
a Park dishing tool is easier to use than a Campy.....you can leave the skewer in
i use a Park shop stand, bought the top part and clamp off ebay to replace my old Park one
to the guy that was having trouble with his dérailleur shifting.....
you need to use a dropout alignment tool set and the dérailleur alignment tool....
yes, they are Campagnolos, no, they aren't cheap but they are THE answer
if i sell some of the stuff thats lying around here, i'll buy the Campagnolo Master Tool set...
and then i'll build my own frame