Big a$$ storage shelf

[fflintstone]

I am posting this in general discussion for anyone looking for storage space in a pole barn.
It is also part of my shop build in my signature line.
I built a shelf well above head height for seasonal and long term storage. In the future I will be buying a used “warehouse ladder” when one comes up cheap. Please see the shop build in my sig line for more pics of the “BIG A$$ SHELF”


Here is the finished BIG A$$ SHELF, 32’ wide, 4’ deep and 40” to the ceiling height. The average storage tote is the 18 gallon size and they average 22” long 15” wide & 12” tall. I can put 144 of them up there! At last a place for all my wife’s @#%^&* Christmas ornaments.
The clearance under the shelf is 8’ for the most part. I plan on setting up my drill presses and wood working tools along this wall.

By fflintstone at 2011-02-07

By fflintstone at 2011-02-07

By fflintstone at 2011-02-07

 

[LEVE]

Nice, I like it! Good job, well done...

 

[hllon4whls]

I like the construction, but do you think it has enough bracing?

 

[ambenz]

Looks good enough for a miriad of Christmas Junk, just wouldn't store engine bocks on it..LOL!
It will also make a great overhang for task lighting at night.
Necessity IS the mother of invention!
I would be a little concerned about piegons accessing those eave openings and nesting in the rafters!!!!!!

 

[mmhouse]

'Tis a thing of beauty!

 

[fflintstone]

Looks good enough for a miriad of Christmas Junk, just wouldn't store engine bocks on it..LOL!

I like the construction, but do you think it has enough bracing?

My main supports (every 8 feet) are not one but two 12” high pieces of ¾” plywood. Your average engineered floor I joist is only 9 ¼” high and has a web of 3/8” OSB.
The shear strength of 3/4” ply is astronomical. If someone were to give me a dozen big block Chevy’s, I would not hesitate to stack them up there.
got an BBC's you want to offer up?

 

[MScott]

My main supports (every 8 feet) are not one but two 12” high pieces of ¾” plywood. Your average engineered floor I joist is only 9 ¼” high and has a web of 3/8” OSB.
The shear strength of 3/4” ply is astronomical. If someone were to give me a dozen big block Chevy’s, I would not hesitate to stack them up there.
got an BBC's you want to offer up?

My concern would not be the shear strength of the plywood but the shear strength of the attachment to the wall studs. How have you fastened the plywood to the studs? Don't forget that a floor joist has support at both ends, not just one.

 

[fflintstone]

My concern would not be the shear strength of the plywood but the shear strength of the attachment to the wall studs. How have you fastened the plywood to the studs? Don't forget that a floor joist has support at both ends, not just one.

This is actually a valid concern. However I have (7) # 12 screws and (5) .131 dia. nails on each plywood connection. (These are going into the 6 x 6 uprights) I am not worried.

 

[Kevin54]

If it were me, I would add some diagonal bracing down to the post at a 45 degree angle. All for the fact that over time, I think that shelf will start to droop somewhat. And the larger the shelf, the more that will be put on it. You could run the braces either up to the top plate or down to the wall post. Or another alternative would be to use some cable or all-thread in the front and anchor it to the ceiling straight up.

 

[trythis]

I will third the bracing concern. All-thread on the corners to a board laid across the top of your joists (purlin?) would be very strong. I doubt the plywood will rip, but if you put enough weight you could see torque in the wall. What your storing up there will make the difference? Engines or blow up rafts?

Your plywood that is outside a straight line from the front edge of the shelf to the wall is just extra weight. You could get more head room by cutting that out.

Great use of space for sure!

 

[fflintstone]

If it were me, I would add some diagonal bracing down to the post at a 45 degree angle. All for the fact that over time, I think that shelf will start to droop somewhat. And the larger the shelf, the more that will be put on it. You could run the braces either up to the top plate or down to the wall post. Or another alternative would be to use some cable or all-thread in the front and anchor it to the ceiling straight up.

If the shelf were to sag (it wont) all it would do by tying it to the 2” x 4” bottom chord of the 4’ OC spaced trusses would be to deflect the ceiling. A cable at a 45 to the top plate would be very good overkill but not necessary. If I were to store engines up there, I would do it.

Your plywood that is outside a straight line from the front edge of the shelf to the wall is just extra weight. You could get more head room by cutting that out.

This statement is WRONG on sooooo many levels I don’t know where to begin. In this application the plywood is acting like a cantilevered truss. The depth of the web is what gives it its strength.

The only person to bring up a valid engineering point so far is Mscott, about the shear strength of the fasteners. (Where most structures fail) That is why they make the short really fat nails for joist hangers. That is why they have nailing schedules for sheathing.


I spent 32 years working in engineering; I am also a licensed builder. I know how to figure a cantilevered load. Trust me I know WTF I am doing.
I can sit my over 300 lb rotund self on the very edge of the shelf, looking out at the vast domain that will one day be my shop, without squeaks, creeks, groans or undo deflection.

I posted this to give others ideas for storage. I built this shelf to suit my needs not yours.
If you can gleen any ideas, great.

 

[PassnThru]

I can sit my over 300 lb rotund self on the very edge of the shelf, looking out at the vast domain that will one day be my shop, without squeaks, creeks, groans or undo deflection.

Well sure - but how does the shelf take it???

 

[santagary]

Looks good enough for a miriad of Christmas Junk, just wouldn't store engine bocks on it..LOL!
It will also make a great overhang for task lighting at night.
Necessity IS the mother of invention!
I would be a little concerned about piegons accessing those eave openings and nesting in the rafters!!!!!!

X 2 on the birds (sparrows, starlings...and...pigeons who all **** indiscriminately

 

[Northstar9126]

Well sure - but how does the shelf take it???

That is truly funny.

 

[ishiboo]

If the shelf were to sag (it wont) all it would do by tying it to the 2” x 4” bottom chord of the 4’ OC spaced trusses would be to deflect the ceiling. A cable at a 45 to the top plate would be very good overkill but not necessary. If I were to store engines up there, I would do it.



This statement is WRONG on sooooo many levels I don’t know where to begin. In this application the plywood is acting like a cantilevered truss. The depth of the web is what gives it its strength.

The only person to bring up a valid engineering point so far is Mscott, about the shear strength of the fasteners. (Where most structures fail) That is why they make the short really fat nails for joist hangers. That is why they have nailing schedules for sheathing.


I spent 32 years working in engineering; I am also a licensed builder. I know how to figure a cantilevered load. Trust me I know WTF I am doing.
I can sit my over 300 lb rotund self on the very edge of the shelf, looking out at the vast domain that will one day be my shop, without squeaks, creeks, groans or undo deflection.

I posted this to give others ideas for storage. I built this shelf to suit my needs not yours.
If you can gleen any ideas, great.

It's part of just about every Internet forum for comments like this to happen, suggestions to be made, etc... just gotta take it how it comes Obviously some are correct and some aren't.

Looks plenty sturdy to me... I'm sure it will hold up fine. I would have done just about the same thing, except with a lag bolt and fender washer going through the "top". With the right bolting/nailing schedule that shelf can easily be loaded enough to put some twist in the 6x6's over time

 

[srmofo]

Those are awesome and I think you'll be fine. Just keep the heavier boxes in back. If it starts to sag you can always add cables later.

 

[rickycobra]

It's perfect for all that stuff you want to move out of your way.

 

[copterdoctor]

mine is this big >_____<

 

[bobabuee]

hey, what ever works for you opions are like ... holes every ones got one,
people just adding what they would do ,so take with grain salt.

this fourm would be no were if people did not put their thoughts in .

it called constructive Criticism

 

[shopnut]

fflintstone - don't get too worked up over people's criticism. You should have heard all the doubting Toms speak up when I displayed my jib crane in the General Garage Discussion forum - WOW! I guess everyone is entitled to an opinion and most (if not all) are basically trying to help you and possibly other readers getting ready to attempt something similar.

You know the application for your project better than anyone and it sounds like you have the skills to do this correctly, so that is what really matters.

Consider, however, someone with less skills trying to copy what you are doing and missing a crucial step or two because they don't know the basic engineering principles involved. They're the ones that might want to take the extra precautions stated by other posters above to make their shelves safe.