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Big cart options for Auto Tech

2ndGearRubber

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I am evaluating mobile storage options for work. This is what I currently have, 40 wide/20 deep KRSC cart. I have a hammer holder on one side, otherwise everything I need is in this. For the most part my work in a given day can be completed with the physical tools in this cart. No real diag/electrical work, but actual repair work, inspections, etc. I am struggling to pare this down significantly. I believe I can remove some things from the lowest drawer, but I have little/no space issues in that drawer. I can save approx 50% I believe in the second lowest drawer by organizing an additional drawer in a tool box (knick/knack weird tools) and moving some stuff to the stuffed full diagnostic/electrical locker. I am also not particularly convinced that is the correct play. Box changes may also be required in the future..... pain engulfs my wallet.

KRSC46HBKH.jpg



Overall things are just a little tight. I cannot organize extensions as I would like, and I have very little extra room. I would actually like to ADD a set of wrenches to this setup, and that is currently not at all possible. The 1/4 drive and pliers drawer is too tight, the top is too tight, wrench drawer needs another set added ideally, power tool drawer is tight, grinder/beating drawer is tight.

Issue is space. The shop has 1 tight area which I believe I could navigate a deeper cart through simply by raising the car up if I need to get to the rear of the vehicle, rolling the cart under. I already have to do this in some bays, but this is a bay I use consistantly, and a 24" deep box is about all that would easily fit. The layout of the shop favors a wider cart with less depth. The current KRSC cart, empty, is 265lb. I had a friend sit on top as I pushed it up the slope and over the rougher areas of concrete. He weighs about 200lb, and I'm thinking 500lb empty cart weight is not unacceptable. Heavy, but possible. I don't think stepping into tool-box level weight of 700+ is reasonably possible, and I would then likely add even more tools as I would have the space.


The Epiq cart/sidekiq is hideously expensive ~5k. I also would want the two thin top drawers swapped for a 4" deep drawer. This lowers my drawer count from 6 to 5, which negates some of the size advantage. My rough estimate is ~25% increase in space, per drawer/flip top area, over a KRSC 40/20 cart. However 1 drawer must then be absorbed by the flip to area and the other 5 drawers. So this gets me into basically having a 25% increase in space over just two drawers once things are dispersed. That said I know layout is king and I may actually save space in some areas. An Epiq cart is right at 500lbs empty. I like having the flip top. This allows me to work from the top area while maintaining the same overall footprint. Having a solid top box means all time spent working requires essentially double the "closed drawer" footprint as drawers must remain open. A tekton 40/60 split box seems very nice, but I'm worried about the footprint and the weight at 581. Plus side it is shallower than the Epiq by 3", which IMO is a more favorable footprint. The other tekton boxes have less favorable layouts with too many thinner drawers. I have a bad habit of putting working tools in the flip top area while working, I'm trying to move to using tear-down carts and work stations. However with a solid top box like the Tekton I could use that as a work top. Maybe mount a vise? Tekton is 3750 with a stainless top. That's sort of close to the Epiq in fairness.

Matco carts seem to offer no better alternative, worse layouts, and I'm worried about long term support. I spoke with my snap on dealer about hanging a side cab on the KRSC. It would overhang the back, and he generally does not recommend this. I cosidered a classic series box, and a KRL box. They are both expensive, and do not solve the "working footprint" problem the Tekton has. I also considerd a HF 44 and 56. I do not like the 56 layout all that much, the 44 is okay but not much bigger than my KRSC and again I have the footprint problem. Am I overthinking the footprint problem with needing to work with drawers open? I would largely be able to keep parts trays and similar on top of the box rather than a separate cart.



What I WANT is a KRSC, 40 wide by 24, same layout I have now. That does not exist. What parts of the ecosystem should I be exploring here? Am I overvauling the flip top? What is a "reasonable" weight to be pushing around? I'm legitimately concerned going over 500lb having to push up the slope from my box area to the bays I typically work in.
 
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The Critic

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Have you considered a KRSC242? It is a 36" W x 24" D cart - but it does have two thin top drawers which would have to be swapped. The top section of the cart is deeper than your current one, if that helps.
 

Zewnten

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I personally don’t like the flip or sliding tops. I went with a KRL single bay for my mobile tool box. I hung a set of craftsman drawers off the side and was seriously considering adding a KRL set in its place for the deeper drawers.

I think a HF 44” could be a good idea but if the floor is too rough you might have issues with the casters and sheet metal holding up? I would personally want a stronger box to handle rough floors.

For someone that knows exactly what layout they want I don’t think you can beat Lista. Order a 44”x24 box in whatever height and drawer layout you want. Might even be something used in your area, there were several like this around me. I think they came from the air plane guys as they down size after retiring.
 

redwrench60

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I chased this around too, and my perfect cart finally ended up being a used KRL1056 in black. I replaced the two fixed castors with swiveling castors for maximum mobility, added an handle to the other side, and mounted a small vise to it. Plenty of room for all my most used tools, built like a tank, but still rolled around smoothly. Even loaded down like a pack mule. I can stack 4 wheels/tires on it and head to the balancer, set a transmission on it from the build bench to take to my stall or whatever. The height is also a perfect working height for a 6’ tall plus man.
 

rust in the eye

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Not knowing your line of work that seems a pretty big "cart" you have there. If I can't move it easily with one hand I ain't calling it a cart.
Any space for you to have another smaller cart in addition?
Aside those jobs that seem to empty the toolbox for you most things I encounter doing automotive repair require relatively few tools. My own solution is a small (the ubiquitous HF) cart holding only wrenches, sockets, drive tools, screwdrivers and some diagnostic equipment but importantly one drawer empty to accomodate the anticipated things needed for the specific job at hand. Usually saves me some steps.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Not knowing your line of work that seems a pretty big "cart" you have there. If I can't move it easily with one hand I ain't calling it a cart.
Any space for you to have another smaller cart in addition?
Aside those jobs that seem to empty the toolbox for you most things I encounter doing automotive repair require relatively few tools. My own solution is a small (the ubiquitous HF) cart holding only wrenches, sockets, drive tools, screwdrivers and some diagnostic equipment but importantly one drawer empty to accomodate the anticipated things needed for the specific job at hand. Usually saves me some steps.

For context this cart basically is my mini tool box. I can swap a subframe, do a timing belt, or change a water pump on nearly any make/model with little/no interaction with my actual tool boxes.

In the 1/4 drive drawer, I have likely 25 extensions (straight, wobble, locking, non). I have 8 sets of metric sockets in 1/4 drive in this drawer, plus a hex bit, torx bit, and sae set. Perhaps paring down isn't the solution but rather rethinking what my specific goals are. My theory was always to maximize what I can carry, then work off tear-down tables and carts. I may be reaching what is reasonably possible to carry. Are more than 3 wrench sets excessive in a daily use cart?




Has anyone gone from a flip or slide top to a regular tool box as a cart? How was it?

Attached are the boxes, my goal has always been avoid the walk to the box and save the time. For instance I'm not carrying around triple square bits or a 1/4 torque wrench in the cart so I have to go to the boxes at some point.

Maybe I'll look at moving some stuff into the boxes and see if I can reorganize lower drawers to make things nicer as I think through this all.
 

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Zewnten

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In the 1/4 drive drawer, I have likely 25 extensions (straight, wobble, locking, non). I have 8 sets of metric sockets in 1/4 drive in this drawer, plus a hex bit, torx bit, and sae….Are more than 3 wrench sets excessive in a daily use cart?
Probably excessive but it depends on the wrench sets. 1/4 drawer I would lean towards highly excessive unless you have specific reasons for each piece. Why keep SAE on the cart except for 1/4 and 5/16 for hose clamps? (I genuinely don’t know, automotive isn’t my thing.) Isn’t everything metric anymore since the 90s?

My everyday tools fit in a tote, metric 3/8 dr semi deeps and swivels and extensions. Metric combo wrenches, Allen wrenches, needle and side cutters, pick and magnet is the rest of it. But I regularly have to climb up on machines with my tools.
 

jpaw

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You could use a top box and build a cart frame for it. The top would open and would leave you a lot of size options.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Probably excessive but it depends on the wrench sets. 1/4 drawer I would lean towards highly excessive unless you have specific reasons for each piece. Why keep SAE on the cart except for 1/4 and 5/16 for hose clamps? (I genuinely don’t know, automotive isn’t my thing.) Isn’t everything metric anymore since the 90s?

My everyday tools fit in a tote, metric 3/8 dr semi deeps and swivels and extensions. Metric combo wrenches, Allen wrenches, needle and side cutters, pick and magnet is the rest of it. But I regularly have to climb up on machines with my tools.

The 1/4 shallow SAE is is for hose clamps, and thread chasers. Most of my thread chaser kit, and the majority of tools for cars, still use SAE. So if I'm using a strut housing spreader, or chasing threads, I have the convenience of that little set when I need it.

The metric sets are shallow/deep/semi-deep, nut grip shallow, FDX shallow, koken zeal low profile, impact universals, and select chrome universals. Maybe the chromes could go back in the box.
 

yellowbox

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Honestly , I would try to rearrange, yeah I know you have done this ...
But realistically buying anything bigger is just gonna be too big a hassle to move around
You have to thin the herd a little ,
If you have duplicate stuff , put it back in your main box
Yeah , your over thinking it ...lol
 

Zewnten

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The 1/4 shallow SAE is is for hose clamps, and thread chasers. Most of my thread chaser kit, and the majority of tools for cars, still use SAE. So if I'm using a strut housing spreader, or chasing threads, I have the convenience of that little set when I need it.

The metric sets are shallow/deep/semi-deep, nut grip shallow, FDX shallow, koken zeal low profile, impact universals, and select chrome universals. Maybe the chromes could go back in the box.
1/4 stills seems a bit overkill to me haha especially the metrics. Are you into hiking at all? Kind of the same idea here. I know individually none of the 1/4 is big but together all that takes up a lot of room. But I also wasn’t working flat rate on every POS that comes in the door so my perspective is very different.
 

Steve_P

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A 40" x 20" "cart" is big to me; and 500 lbs empty, yikes. Sounds like maybe you should try cutting down on the number of sockets, and maybe other stuff. On the sockets that you don't use that often, maybe just keep the 4 sizes that you use the most instead of the entire sets? If you can keep the same box, with less stuff in it, and only walk to your main box a few more times a day, is that a worthwhile sacrifice? You'll find out soon enough what you need if you try this. My point is that if you use 6 socket sizes 95% of the time, do you need all 12? If you only need one Zeal socket once a day, do you keep the entire set there? Or just walk a few more trips a day? Yes, ideally you would have everything you need in your cart. I know you work on everything, so you can't be like someone that just works on Toyota where you only use 6 sizes 95% of the time all day; but maybe you don't really need those 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11... mm sockets in 8 flavors?
 
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2ndGearRubber

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A 40" x 20" "cart" is big to me; and 500 lbs empty, yikes. Sounds like maybe you should try cutting down on the number of sockets, and maybe other stuff. On the sockets that you don't use that often, maybe just keep the 4 sizes that you use the most instead of the entire sets? If you can keep the same box, with less stuff in it, and only walk to your main box a few more times a day, is that a worthwhile sacrifice? You'll find out soon enough what you need if you try this. My point is that if you use 6 socket sizes 95% of the time, do you need all 12? If you only need one Zeal socket once a day, do you keep the entire set there? Or just walk a few more trips a day? Yes, ideally you would have everything you need in your cart. I know you work on everything, so you can't be like someone that just works on Toyota where you only use 6 sizes 95% of the time all day; but maybe you don't really need those 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11... mm sockets in 8 flavors?

I removed the 10lb dead blow sledge from the bottom drawer today. Baby steps.
 
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Fixr

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A 40" x 20" "cart" is big to me; and 500 lbs empty, yikes. Sounds like maybe you should try cutting down on the number of sockets, and maybe other stuff. On the sockets that you don't use that often, maybe just keep the 4 sizes that you use the most instead of the entire sets? If you can keep the same box, with less stuff in it, and only walk to your main box a few more times a day, is that a worthwhile sacrifice? You'll find out soon enough what you need if you try this. My point is that if you use 6 socket sizes 95% of the time, do you need all 12? If you only need one Zeal socket once a day, do you keep the entire set there? Or just walk a few more trips a day? Yes, ideally you would have everything you need in your cart. I know you work on everything, so you can't be like someone that just works on Toyota where you only use 6 sizes 95% of the time all day; but maybe you don't really need those 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11... mm sockets in 8 flavors?
Agreed. To my mind, a mobile cart is not the place for completism. The drawers in the cart are for the stuff you use constantly, and you should be able to put your hand on the tool you need without really having to even look at the drawer. For example, now that I'm retired I only work on my own vehicles, none of which use 15, 16 or 18mm head fasteners. So those sizes of wrenches and sockets live in the stationary boxes. Same for hammers, pliers, screwdrivers, etc. If I need them I have to take a few more steps, but the cart is substantially lighter and less crowded, and much easier to work out of.

All of that is variable depending on the size and layout of the shop, and what kind of vehicles you are working on, but the concepts apply pretty much across the board. Keep your mobile cart mobile.
 

CGarage

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I removed the 10lb dead blow sledge from the bottom drawer today. Baby steps.


8 metric sets in 1/4 drive is wild to me.

You crazy.

But I like it and can relate….I think I have about half that.


None of us are getting any younger. Pushing too heavy a cart in rough ground and on an incline is a recipe for disaster and an ankle or planter fascia injury just waiting to happen.

Get the weight down and plan your workflow to avoid injury.
 

Fixr

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8 metric sets in 1/4 drive is wild to me.

You crazy.

But I like it and can relate….I think I have about half that.


None of us are getting any younger. Pushing too heavy a cart in rough ground and on an incline is a recipe for disaster and an ankle or planter fascia injury just waiting to happen.

Get the weight down and plan your workflow to avoid injury.
Hey OP: Listen to this person.
 

AEAdam

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I love this thread, but have absolutely nothing of value to add.

Can I just ask, can we get pics of this box’s drawers?

8 sets of 1/4” sockets? What’s in the 3/8” drawer? How many ratchets are we talking about exactly? I actually think pics would help you get better support from the team here.
 
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Steve_P

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8 metric sets in 1/4 drive is wild to me.

You crazy.

But I like it and can relate….I think I have about half that.


None of us are getting any younger. Pushing too heavy a cart in rough ground and on an incline is a recipe for disaster and an ankle or planter fascia injury just waiting to happen.

Get the weight down and plan your workflow to avoid injury.

Without going to look, but with a little thought (and two cocktails in me, so beware :ROFLMAO: ), I think I have 7 sets of 1/4 drive metric. And none are impact. And no, I do not work on cars for a living. And yes, they are all different. And none of them are 12 point. So, I can easily see 8 sets for him if I have 7 with no real redundancy. But, and this was my point, I don't think you need all of them, in complete sets in a cart. If you can fit it all, great. But if you need more space, for something else, and you can change a subframe or a timing belt in nearly any car from your "cart", then it's not really a cart. IMO. And I get it, time is money.... and I've never done what OP does for a living.... but IMO, it's time to thin the herd a bit.

You probably don't need all sizes of: universal, zeal stubbies, nut grip, mid length, impact, impact swivel..... in both 1/4 and 3/8 in a cart. And maybe the same for odd size wrenches that you almost never use. I know you probably don't want to split up sets, but how often to you use those odd sizes in unconventional wrenches that probably take up 30% of the space in the wrench drawers?
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Not sure if it got buried with new posts. The cornwell one I posted above is 49x20

I no longer have a Cornwell dealer, but the side cab of that is mostly for power tools and chargers. IMO that's more of a "mostly a box, sometimes a cart" setup.

I'll get you guys pictures tomorrow. I don't think it's excessive.... maybe it's excessive.
 

Wrench97

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Without going to look, but with a little thought (and two cocktails in me, so beware :ROFLMAO: ), I think I have 7 sets of 1/4 drive metric. And none are impact. And no, I do not work on cars for a living. And yes, they are all different. And none of them are 12 point. So, I can easily see 8 sets for him if I have 7 with no real redundancy. But, and this was my point, I don't think you need all of them, in complete sets in a cart. If you can fit it all, great. But if you need more space, for something else, and you can change a subframe or a timing belt in nearly any car from your "cart", then it's not really a cart. IMO. And I get it, time is money.... and I've never done what OP does for a living.... but IMO, it's time to thin the herd a bit.

You probably don't need all sizes of: universal, zeal stubbies, nut grip, mid length, impact, impact swivel..... in both 1/4 and 3/8 in a cart. And maybe the same for odd size wrenches that you almost never use. I know you probably don't want to split up sets, but how often to you use those odd sizes in unconventional wrenches that probably take up 30% of the space in the wrench drawers?
Part of not splitting up sets has to do with quickly knowing what's missing from the rail a the end of the job.
Having a extra short socket is for time savings but if you have to walk to the other side of the shop to get it it may not be a time saving any longer...................
I have tools in my big box that I may never use again I.E, a 2" open end that I used all the time in the 80's/90's on 1.5" air lines for pneumatic starters, but it's not getting tossed or sold then there is the stuff I custom bent that I look at and have no idea what it was for 30 years ago.......................................
 

ChefRex

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I hate walking over to my main box,
not really. as I generally work in my two bays but if working in other parts I’m guaranteed not to have what I need
 

Steve_P

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Part of not splitting up sets has to do with quickly knowing what's missing from the rail a the end of the job.
Having a extra short socket is for time savings but if you have to walk to the other side of the shop to get it it may not be a time saving any longer...................
I have tools in my big box that I may never use again I.E, a 2" open end that I used all the time in the 80's/90's on 1.5" air lines for pneumatic starters, but it's not getting tossed or sold then there is the stuff I custom bent that I look at and have no idea what it was for 30 years ago.......................................

Understand that totally. But there are easy ways to address this - socket rails for each box with only what goes there and no extra empty pegs; or duplicate sockets in the "cart". I can see keeping complete sets in the main box and then your 95% sets in the "cart" on Ernst rails with no extra pegs. Yes this means buying a lot of extra sockets, or not and then customizing rails, but... if it's between that and a "cart" the size of a Suburban, then...
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Part of not splitting up sets has to do with quickly knowing what's missing from the rail a the end of the job.
Having a extra short socket is for time savings but if you have to walk to the other side of the shop to get it it may not be a time saving any longer...................
I have tools in my big box that I may never use again I.E, a 2" open end that I used all the time in the 80's/90's on 1.5" air lines for pneumatic starters, but it's not getting tossed or sold then there is the stuff I custom bent that I look at and have no idea what it was for 30 years ago.......................................

This is critical, I try to preach it to new guys. Every single peg should be filled. If it's not, you need to figure out why. Leaving a torx bit in an intake manifold is gonna make for a rough first start. 😬
 

Fixr

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This is critical, I try to preach it to new guys. Every single peg should be filled. If it's not, you need to figure out why. Leaving a torx bit in an intake manifold is gonna make for a rough first start. 😬
And however you do it, you have to know what is supposed to be on the pegs. That's a lot easier if you don't have pegs for tools that just sit there and gather dust. Tools that take up space and don't get used are worse than useless. Figure out what you really use and configure your cart accordingly. Don't drag around dead weight.
 

ChevyEFI

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Sounds like your extensions in 1/4" alone need dumped in the big box. Grab one you need, leave it in the moving box.

Same with 3/8" stuff. You know you haven't used several of the sizes that overlap 1/4". Dump all 3/8 in the big box. Grab what you need when you need it. Live off 1/4" and 1/2".
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Picture time, socket drawers last because I'm a tease.

20240208_075727.jpg

Hammers on the side, 3/8 semi deep FDX sockets are mostly for exhaust work.

20240208_075742.jpg

Bottom drawer is brake stuff mostly. Caliper depressor tools, air nozzles, etc. I have the astro 6" extended swivels in here, I'm just not really using them. They will likely move to the box.

20240208_075752.jpg

Catch all. 4 different test lamps, sticker scraper for inspections, retrieval tools, torch glasses, etc.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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20240208_075817.jpg

Material removal/cleaning. Baby hammer, punches, and axle nut common sizes. Some line up bars without handles live here.

20240208_075823.jpg

Power tools. M18 mid torque is weak sauce, but I can't bring myself to stuff it in the box yet after buying it recently. Thor gun is now in the lowest drawer after removing the giant hammer.

20240208_075831.jpg

Wright grips, zero offset wrenches, reversable flex head. The pile of wrenches are for various bleeder locations, slide pins, etc. Astro long flex handle and 24" 1/2 ratchet live here.
 
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