Bigger Air Compressor advice needed!

[bseant]

That Husky so called "7 HP" is NOT 7 running HP. It is 7 "peak" HP. In otherwords, it is BS advertising gimmicky stuff.

To put it in relative perspective, the true 7.5 running HP motor I have could be advertised as having 21.4 "peak" HP, but fortunately, by the time one steps up to industrial sized compressors, a lot of the marketing malarkey is dispensed with.

Not saying that the Husky (that particular one is made by Campbell Hausfeld) is a bad compressor, but it is not the "bad AZZ" compressor that it purports to be. The true running horsepower of that motor is about 2-3 HP. You'll get about 15 CFM out that unit, not the 25 CFM out of a true 7.5 HP unit.

ah yes marketing jargon gotta love it. I have a craftsman noise maker good little compressor for what it is but it states it's a five horse. yea right it's prob around 3/4 hp. I have a 1957 ir with a pump thats rated for 5hp wonder if the craftsman can power that ummm no. LOL. As for the compressors your looking at i don't think any will give the never ending supply of air needed to work a blast cabinet or any other high hogs of air. Someone mention a ir t30 couldn't agree more with that or any old ir you can get a hold of. Like i said i have 1957 ir that i got for 150 put about 200 into it and i now have a compressor that should easily last me another 60 years or so.

 

[Keyblazer]

OP only has a 60 amp breaker panel in his garage. Probably cannot run two compressors and the lights at the same time. He needs one decent compressor.

True 5 hp (two stage) will give you about 18/19 CFM and about 20/22 amp draw, and true 7.5 hp (two stage) will give you about 24 cfm and about 33 amp draw.

Charles

My new garage panel is a 125A unit, but is running off a 60A breaker in the main panel because we only have a 100A service at the moment.
We are going to have a 200A service panel installed later this year.
In the meantime, I will have to be selective on what I use and when!

Still digging for compressors... lots of people just don't respond, or have sold and not removed the ad.

 

[DirtRoad]

Ive got that husky, its 11.5 cfm at 90psi, not 10.

It was worth every penny i paid for it. No regrets at all.

I agree with everything ducksface has said about this issue. Sometimes buying used and old just isnt practical. Buy today and play today.

 

[Keyblazer]

Still digging!

Found a shop closing sale...
What about a Curtis?
Pump is a D-96 and says 800rpm max...
Looks in nice shape...
Don't have a lot more info yet...
Worth looking at?

 

[bseant]

well did you get the curtis?

 

[Keyblazer]

Nope, still looking...
Called the guy, spoke to him and got all the info, and was arranging to go look at it and organized some muscle for lifting the beast into my truck...
Next thing, he stops talking to me, wont respond or return calls..
All good really... does not deserve my time of money.

Been working on a couple of others and hope to have some more info/news this week!

 

[bseant]

Nope, still looking...
Called the guy, spoke to him and got all the info, and was arranging to go look at it and organized some muscle for lifting the beast into my truck...
Next thing, he stops talking to me, wont respond or return calls..
All good really... does not deserve my time of money.

Been working on a couple of others and hope to have some more info/news this week!

yeah you know i never really understood that. Even if he sold it he should still give the respect of calling someone and say "sorry it's been sold" in which my response would be "ok thanks".

 

[Keyblazer]

Yeah... there are a couple of nice units on CL that have been sold and are still up... which is frustrating.
Am talking to one guy that looks promising but the unit is in storage. Told him I will come look when its out, hooked up and i can hear it run...

 

[DangerousDan55]

When someone has a item still posed on CL that is sold already, I make it a point to keep calling them late at night 12-2 am. Just to piss them off like they do me. Hell, I'm up anyway to take a leak!

 

[All]

Good for you KeyBlazer. If the item is being represented as in working condition (and priced accordingly) then insist on it being "hooked up" so you can "heat it run."

I've made the mistake of trusting folks who appeared by all accounts to be trustworthy.

Not any more.

 

[kenfain]

A lot of good compressor rebuild threads here on G.J. I honestly think anyone would be truly happy, rebuilding and forever being proud as a new father, of something they built with their own hands. American made, old school engineering. What's to think about? Mine has a mechanical unloader. With centrifugal weights n stuff. Purrs when it runs. Built in 1968.Beautiful machine. Trust us on this you won't be sorry you waited. Just say no to ANY new compressor (in stated price range )Especially big box store models. I personally wouldn't buy any new compressor that costs less than about 2500$ I know what's out there. I've been where you're at, just recently. Every new compressor had something about it I just couldn't see paying that much money for. I ended up with an old Curtis. $450.00 got it on CL. Now when I go into a compressor shop, to get a filter, or oil or something. Some old timer will say C96? That's a good one. That's Priceless! ..you're gonna love it. It'll be the show piece in your garage. .

 

[Keyblazer]

On the subject of "Hearing it run"...
Any pointers or suggestions?
Obviously a "rod Knock" would be a clue... but anything else to watch for?
I was thinking that from empty there should be some kind of "rule of thumb" on fill to cut-off time?

 

[Keyblazer]

Thanks Ken... good sage advice...
I am trolling....

 

[Keyblazer]

So....

With the age of the vintage units wouldn't rust in the tank be an issue?

What does a good 5hp 1 phase motor cost???
This one???
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bfs/3823309919.html

 

[bseant]

So....

With the age of the vintage units wouldn't rust in the tank be an issue?

What does a good 5hp 1 phase motor cost???
This one???
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bfs/3823309919.html

honestly when i got my 1957 i thought rust would be an issue but opened up the ports on front and it was just fine. It would take a lot to rust through a tank like that and if it did you would start with a leak that would progressively get bigger. When checking out cl finds take a spray bottle of water and little bit of dish soap and spray it areas that look suspicious.

 

[All]

On the subject of "Hearing it run"...
Any pointers or suggestions?
Obviously a "rod Knock" would be a clue... but anything else to watch for?
I was thinking that from empty there should be some kind of "rule of thumb" on fill to cut-off time?

A "rod knock" perhaps might NOT "obviously" be a clue to a bad anything. A rod knock sound could be just the result of a loose or misaligned belt. Some recent threads have revealed this issue, and one member here is currently putting his original pump back onto his compressor (after he purchased and installed a replacement pump due to the "rod knock" that he heard) to verify that what really fixed his issue wasn't the new pump, but was rather the renewed installation itself, with a correctly tensioned and aligned belt and pulley. Something else to consider.

 

[Keyblazer]

Good info.

Hoping to go see a Speedaire 5Z635a this coming week.
From what I see its 7.5hp, 2 stage, 175psi, single phase, with 80g tank.
Found this one on Ebay that is the same model number and power.
Been conversing with the owner, and he says he bought it about 7 years ago.
Looks clean and tidy.
Stated output is 25.1cfm @ 175psi, which looks pretty good!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5Z639A-SPEEDAIRE-Air-Compressors-7-5-HP-80-GALLON-/181128509927

 

[Keyblazer]

Forgot to ask...
Opinions?

 

[Unmarked Bill]

Hi, if you still need a compressor I have this pump I'm selling.

<a href="http://s19.photobucket.com/user/picturedlife/media/ingersoll%20vacuum/20130414_133947_zpsb3fe3444.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/picturedlife/ingersoll%20vacuum/th_20130414_133947_zpsb3fe3444.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130414_133947_zpsb3fe3444.jpg"></a>

<a href="http://s19.photobucket.com/user/picturedlife/media/ingersoll%20vacuum/20130414_153831_zpsde585157.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/picturedlife/ingersoll%20vacuum/th_20130414_153831_zpsde585157.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130414_153831_zpsde585157.jpg"></a>

I have single and 3phase motors, don't have a vertical tank. Way cooler than a speedaire.

 

[Keyblazer]

Thanks Bill... but the truth is I am way to dumb to know what I am looking at here...
The good news is that I am sure that there are some that do, and will want what you have!

 

[bseant]

Thanks Bill... but the truth is I am way to dumb to know what I am looking at here...
The good news is that I am sure that there are some that do, and will want what you have!

actually you may want that. depending upon condition of the pump and how much he is asking. t30 is a great pump that is what im using although i believe mine is much older.

Hey bill what year is that pump?

 

[Grounded Ken]

I don't think that I/R will do the trick, while it is a step in the right direction. The V235 is a vacuum pump, single stage machine. It will work as a compressor, 3 or 5 Hp., but don't expect a lot of pressure, 125 max. From the looks of the tag it is from the 50's to early 60's. This will outperform any of the big box compressors for another 50 years.
And you will be able to get parts for it in 50 years, not from I/R but from the aftermarket industry.

 

[Unmarked Bill]

I was running it as a compressor and it was pretty great. The tank was a little sketchy so I think I shut it off around 140.

I believe it's a '62 from memory. To me, a big part of the T30 is that they are just so cool. Sound cool, look cool, I really like having it around. The only reason I have that pump for sale is, I met a kid who really wanted to trade his 80gallon T30 horizontal comp for my Rand4000 comp. Super nice kid, he just wanted something smaller and in one piece. I didn't feel like it was my job to talk him out of it.

 

[Keyblazer]

Thanks Bill, but I think I will keep looking for a turn-key compressor.

Its frustrating how slow some sellers are to respond to questions and then find out they are clueless or worse, misrepresenting stuff!

 

[Unmarked Bill]

Theres a lot of baloney on craigslist but there's deals to be had. I enjoy the baloney so it suits me.

 

[Keyblazer]

How long should a larger compressor with a 80g tank take to fill.. ballpark?

 

[mayday0017]

That depends... is it 5hp or 7.5hp? Where are you located anyways, I went to the speedaire listing you posted and saw it was in texas. I was thinking you were in California for some reason... That auction ended not far from me, and I just sold a Craftsman Professional 80gal 5hp that was less then a year old for $650 yesterday. Might want to add your geographical location, I would of PMed you if I thought you were closer and gave you first dibs.

 

[Keyblazer]

Thanks for the input.
I updated my location.
I am in CA, and the Speedaire I referenced was an identical one to the one I am looking at locally.
Hope that makes sense!

 

[Keyblazer]

The search is OVER!



Speedaire 7.5hp, 2 Stage, 175psi, 80 Gallon Tank.
My research say is puts out about 25cfm @ 175psi.
Grainger says spares are still available...
Lucky the seller had a Forklift to load it...

 

[CNGsaves]

Congrats . . . now for key information you left out . . .

. . . Where'd you end up getting it??
. . . How much??

 

[Keyblazer]

Congrats . . . now for key information you left out . . .

. . . Where'd you end up getting it??
. . . How much??

Thanks!
Well, within 20 miles, and under my Budget...
Let me quote my buddy who stopped by this evening and had volunteered to unload it and juggle it into place...
I opened the back of the pickup... and said.. "There she is"...

He said..
"Frick me..... its a frickin' MONSTER!"
Or words close to that....

 

[bseant]

Congrats . . . now for key information you left out . . .

. . . Where'd you end up getting it??
. . . How much??

lol x2! nice compressor should be the last one you need to buy. Your gonna be glad you didn't go the hf route.

 

[Keyblazer]

Well, thanks to you bunch of reprobates!
I feel pretty confident that it will get the job done and outlast and exceed my needs!

Now I gotta get it out of the back of my truck... get it wired... get it serviced, and get it plumbed...

 

[CNGsaves]

Well in just over a month, you went from nearly buying a Home Depot Husky . . . . . . to instead getting a SCORE of lifetime 7.5 HP 80 gallon SpeedAire!!!

So you get the well deserved . . . . . YOU **** !!

 

[All]

Wow KeyBlazer... Nice find and congratulations on accomplishing your mission.

A week ago I was getting ready to say will you just buy a compressor already, sheesh.

And then you show back up with this haul. Yeah, you know you **** big time.

That looks like a WEG electric motor. If it is, then it has an all cast iron frame (body). Even the side mounted capacitor bank is all cast iron. In other words, the electric motor ALONE weighs about 110 lbs by itself, not including the cabling attached to it nor the magnetic starter.

As for the pump, that looks like a Champion pump, but I'm not as confident about that. I think it is though. As you know, "Speedaire" is just an in house brand name for Grainger (like "Westward"). "Speedaire" does is not a manufacturer. All Speedaire components are rebranded products from other manufacturers, some of whom Grainger sells simultaneously right along side Grainger's rebrand of Champion (and Campbell Hausfeld and Devilibiss) under the name of Speedaire.

Most of Speedaire's smaller single phase reciprocating pumps are OEM'd by Campbell Hausfeld. The two stage pumps however, are more often sourced from Champion, and that's what your pump looks like. By itself, that pump is probably 85 lbs.

What you might consider doing is removing the pump and the electric motor from the tank before attempting to unload the compressor from your truck. My electric motor with external wiring and starter switch weighed 140 lbs (verified with a scale), so I removed it with a shop crane. My pump weighed about the same, 145 lbs, with the intercooler and flywheel attached. I hoisted it off separately also. Then I hoisted down the tank.

A lot of guys hoist down the entire thing together, but then I've seen where some have damaged the intercooler or the belt guard or the piping inadvertently while doing so.

I reasoned that I planned on replacing check valves, retightening the belt, and perhaps changing valves anyway, so might as well reduce top heaviness from the get go.

Anyway, the outside looks very nice, and the specs look perfect for your stated needs. And at $800.00, you didn't go wrong. The only remaining thing to check is the inside of the air receiver tank.

 

[Keyblazer]

Thanks again.

I cannot believe the size of the thing....
The motor itself is huge... I think its a Magnatek?

It makes sense that's its a rebadged unit... I read somewhere its a Dayton?

I have a camper shell on my Pickup, so we had to put a strap around the frame, and carefully lay it down, then fork it in with the business end of it facing the rear of the truck.
Now its home I planned on getting a couple of buddies and use my engine hoist to lift it out then stand it back up. After that its just a matter of getting into place...

Can someone suggest what is the best oil to use?

 

[All]

"Dayton" is also a house brand of Grainger.

The air compressors that Grainger sells under the brand names of Speedaire, Dayton, and Westward are all manufactured by an air compressor building company that is neither Speedaire, Dayton, nor Westward.

To find out more about your compressor, take a picture of each label and post it up. Then not only will you be able to look up the Grainger item numbers on Grainger's webstie, but so can anyone else who, being as green with envy as your compressor, will be curious enough to research elements through the prism of their personal experience and help you out with more info.

Did you drain the existing oil out before you laid the compressor down?

If not, let the compressor sit upright for a day or so before starting, and ask Grounded Ken or Fixnair or another air compressor expert about whether or not you should pull the head and intercooler due to too much oil seeping past the rings that might cause some type of hydraulic damage to the air valve set up, depending on what kind it is.

Definitely confirm the type of pump you have before tearing into it.

For example, if you have a Champion pump (which I suspect), you might be able to get new gasket kits from places OTHER than Grainger and save money. Grainger is notoriously high priced... and they can be because big companies are all too happy to pay that price for the high availability and efficiency of Grainger's distribution system. However, you've waited 2 months to find your perfect compressor, so a few more days probably won't shut down your billion dollar operation.

With billions in mind, Grainger, like Sears, is actually big enough for the air compressor OEM's to build compressor SKU's just for Grainger (under the names Dayton, Speedaire, and Westward). I've noticed from time to time that companies like Ingersoll Rand might manufacture a SKU that is sold only by Grainger. There may or may not be a physical difference between the Grainger version and the rest of market version.

Often times, there is no difference other than part number. For example, speaking of compressor oil, Ingersoll Rand produces (or causes to have produced) a special synthetic reciprocating compressor oil that extends the factory Ingersoll Rand warranty by two years if you use it from first fill. It is called All Season Select. It is sold in many venues, but the Ingersoll Rand part number sold through Grainger is EXCLUSIVE to Grainger. Yet the oil itself is the same stuff. It's what I use in my reciprocating compressors, BTW.

On the other hand, if there was a mechanical design difference between an R series pump that Champion makes for it's own brand, versus the R series pump Champion might make exclusively for Grainger (sold under the Speedaire brand), then it would naturally behoove you to pay Grainger their high price and get the part near instantaneously from Grainger.

Hope all of that made sense, and at the same time hope none of it was too obvious either. Sorry if either is the case.

Some guys drill holes in the base plate (top plate) and bolt in eye bolts to give their engine hoist a secure attachment point without worrying about straps slipping from around the motor or pump. Search GJ for pics of these shop crane picks.



Use non-detergent,

 

[Keyblazer]

Good info, and thanks!
I will post pics soon, so I can get some help ID'ing this baby.
No, I didn't drain the oil, and yes it will be sitting for a few days while I reorganize the garage, decide where and how it will sit, and run the conduit/cables for its final spot.

Need some input on a few things...
Was thinking to mount it on vibration pads...
It will have to be bolted down, because we live in Earthquake country!
Something like these?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-vibration-damping-mounts/=n4avoj

Next I want to start thinking about what I will need to provide moisture free air..
Again, living in SoCal, and a few miles inland, we are luckier than most, but
Media Blasting cabinets, Plasma Cutters need dry air.
I read a good thread here on after-cooling, but my concern is the 175psi beast I need to tread carefully.
Input or links to good advice would be welcomed!

Also, I want to run some pipe... I assume threaded steel pipe is the way to go for safety?

 

[metal4130]

I'm pretty sure that it is a Campbell Hausfeld pump.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365172_200365172

 

[tonym]

Good info, and thanks!
I will post pics soon, so I can get some help ID'ing this baby.
No, I didn't drain the oil, and yes it will be sitting for a few days while I reorganize the garage, decide where and how it will sit, and run the conduit/cables for its final spot.

Need some input on a few things...
Was thinking to mount it on vibration pads...
It will have to be bolted down, because we live in Earthquake country!
Something like these?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-vibration-damping-mounts/=n4avoj

Next I want to start thinking about what I will need to provide moisture free air..
Again, living in SoCal, and a few miles inland, we are luckier than most, but
Media Blasting cabinets, Plasma Cutters need dry air.
I read a good thread here on after-cooling, but my concern is the 175psi beast I need to tread carefully.
Input or links to good advice would be welcomed!

Also, I want to run some pipe... I assume threaded steel pipe is the way to go for safety?

yes, you can use black pipe as it works great...Look at tptools for the pipe setup...