Bigger Air Compressor advice needed!
- Thread starter Keyblazer
- Start date
kenfain
Well-known member
Nice! I knew it would be worth the wait. When I was looking, everyone kept saying "you're putting way to much thought into this. Just go buy one. " But I kept looking. People stopped talking to me about it. Thought I was just being flaky about buying a compressor. But when I first saw It,I knew it was worth the wait. MADE IN USA stamped all over it. Love at first sight! All the way home I couldn't quit smiling. You get this thing wired, piped n stuff. I'd like to see it. Gonna be great!
Thanks,
The last pic is pretty much where and how it will sit within a few Inches...
Not ideal with the fan facing the wall, but about the best I can do I think.
With the wall base there, I am gonna fab up some feet extentions this week...
Good excuse to break in this little setup my GF/kids got me for Fathers day!
The last pic is pretty much where and how it will sit within a few Inches...
Not ideal with the fan facing the wall, but about the best I can do I think.
With the wall base there, I am gonna fab up some feet extentions this week...
Good excuse to break in this little setup my GF/kids got me for Fathers day!
I got some questions...
So the Compressor will fill and cutoff at 175psi...
1/ Is that too much to have in the lines, or should it be regulated down?
2/ How should I plumb from there?
3/ A flex hose from the compressor to the wall mounted pipes?
4/ What diameter piping should I use...
5/ Should I use galvanized pipe?
I am looking at this setup as a model as suggested.
http://www.tptools.com/Coalescing-Filter-and-Regulator-Piping-Kit,7446.html?b=d*8092
I was planning to only have one pipeline at this time, and for it to be on the wall where the compressor is running about 15' off to the right above the bench. The will be a couple of drops in that line.
The planned large blast cabinet will be right next to the compressor.
So the Compressor will fill and cutoff at 175psi...
1/ Is that too much to have in the lines, or should it be regulated down?
2/ How should I plumb from there?
3/ A flex hose from the compressor to the wall mounted pipes?
4/ What diameter piping should I use...
5/ Should I use galvanized pipe?
I am looking at this setup as a model as suggested.
http://www.tptools.com/Coalescing-Filter-and-Regulator-Piping-Kit,7446.html?b=d*8092
I was planning to only have one pipeline at this time, and for it to be on the wall where the compressor is running about 15' off to the right above the bench. The will be a couple of drops in that line.
The planned large blast cabinet will be right next to the compressor.
mayday0017
Well-known member
Well it's not a Champion for sure, which means it is prob a CH unit rebranded as Speedaire. Had to go get on my phone to see pics, was super curious because mine is a Speedaire 7.5hp 80 gal unit. Mine however is a Champion unit (R15 pump), Would be interesting if both of us powered up our units on a 100% empty tank and compair how long it takes to fill. Also post pictures of the "Claims" (CFM & Amps) along with our findings of what the amps are and maybe CFM calculations. Shoot me a PM if you are up for it and we can post up a new thread with everything.
SHE LIVES!
Wired and started her up.
Actually sounds quieter than the Sandborn unit!
I had emptied the tank of air, and in what seemed like 3 mins, it was at 100psi!
At that point I spotted something that concerned me, so I stopped it.
The oil sight glass, was about half way full when stopped, and I suddenly noticed it was at the bottom of the glass when running...
What is correct level... stopped or running?
Wired and started her up.
Actually sounds quieter than the Sandborn unit!
I had emptied the tank of air, and in what seemed like 3 mins, it was at 100psi!
At that point I spotted something that concerned me, so I stopped it.
The oil sight glass, was about half way full when stopped, and I suddenly noticed it was at the bottom of the glass when running...
What is correct level... stopped or running?
bseant
Well-known member
i would have to assume while it is stopped (i don't have a sight glass on my ir) While it is running the oil is being splashed up onto the cylinder walls to lubricate and cool. Guys chime in if i'm incorrect this is just an educated guess.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
You check the oil when it is stopped...
However, when running I've never seen the oil level drop too much on pumps.
Did you get new air filters or at least blow out those existing ones?
Did the oil level come back up to normal once you stopped it?
However, when running I've never seen the oil level drop too much on pumps.
Did you get new air filters or at least blow out those existing ones?
Did the oil level come back up to normal once you stopped it?
I will be changing the oil and filters before I use it more than a test.
Its not even sitting on its feet, as I am fabricating them today.
As a result, its not connected to an air pipe yet.
Working on the hard piping plan and ordering parts like the flex pipe, filters, Isolation mounts today.
The oil level when stopped is bang in the middle of the sight glass, but when it is running, it drops to the bottom.
Anyone got a manual by chance?
Also I let it run up to shutoff and it stopped at 120psi...
I think the regulator will need adjusting or replacing...
Its not even sitting on its feet, as I am fabricating them today.
As a result, its not connected to an air pipe yet.
Working on the hard piping plan and ordering parts like the flex pipe, filters, Isolation mounts today.
The oil level when stopped is bang in the middle of the sight glass, but when it is running, it drops to the bottom.
Anyone got a manual by chance?
Also I let it run up to shutoff and it stopped at 120psi...
I think the regulator will need adjusting or replacing...
mayday0017
Well-known member
My speedaire with a brand new champion pump goes very low when runing and you can see it sloshing back and forth all over the place through the sight glass. Then when it kicks off it is just a hair above dead center. I wouldn't worry about it unless it is below the center mark when off. Moving when it is running just means the dip tubes are splashing the oil around when it is running which is a good thing.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
It's probably a lower RPM and a lower tone...
Yes, its a deeper tone.
Ok, Sorry, the questions are really gonna keep flowing...
I just pulled the cover off the pressure regulator... I know why it kicked off at 120psi now.
The regulator is a Pumptrol Square D... 125psi off!
Is there any advantage to replacing it with a higher cutoff regulator?
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Honestly, for home use... I would just leave it as-is unless you come across a day when you constantly need higher pressure. Lower pressure also means less wear & tear on the pump. It probably kicks back on at 90-100 PSI?
Unmarked Bill
Well-known member
Jason is correct
The only disadvantage might be increased number of cycles.
Some compressor pumps are suggested to be limited to cycle on and off no more than 8 times per hour. If that is the case with your CH pump (contact Grainger or CH to ask) then you'll have to consider your peak consumption rate of air, and for how long of a realistic period of time that peak consumption rate will be sustained without a break.
The higher the pressure, the more volume of air can be stuffed into the tank. So with a lower shut off pressure, you won't be storing as much air in your 80 gallon tank that you would be if your pump continued pumping up to 175 psi.
And there's the rub... at 175 psi, you will have fewer cycle times per hour, but longer cycle duration for every cycle. So take your pick. These two factors alone cannot be compared as one being better than the other, because other factors are involved... such as demand for air and type of air demand, cost of electricity (more current used in starting than running) etc.
So volume of air stored might be a disadvantage to a lower pressure setting, but that debated disadvantage is offset not only be the benefits that Jason mentioned above, but by a safer operating environment.
Over time, the steel in the tank gets thinner. As it thins, the real life actual maximum allowable working pressure degrades. The lower you run the pressure, the less stress is imposed on the degrading tank. Some tanks that will hold 120 psi all day long will blow apart at 175 psi. It just depends on condition, and unless you run a thickness tester on all parts of your tank, it's anyone's guess how much of the original thickness your tank has lost over the years.
Some compressor pumps are suggested to be limited to cycle on and off no more than 8 times per hour. If that is the case with your CH pump (contact Grainger or CH to ask) then you'll have to consider your peak consumption rate of air, and for how long of a realistic period of time that peak consumption rate will be sustained without a break.
The higher the pressure, the more volume of air can be stuffed into the tank. So with a lower shut off pressure, you won't be storing as much air in your 80 gallon tank that you would be if your pump continued pumping up to 175 psi.
And there's the rub... at 175 psi, you will have fewer cycle times per hour, but longer cycle duration for every cycle. So take your pick. These two factors alone cannot be compared as one being better than the other, because other factors are involved... such as demand for air and type of air demand, cost of electricity (more current used in starting than running) etc.
So volume of air stored might be a disadvantage to a lower pressure setting, but that debated disadvantage is offset not only be the benefits that Jason mentioned above, but by a safer operating environment.
Over time, the steel in the tank gets thinner. As it thins, the real life actual maximum allowable working pressure degrades. The lower you run the pressure, the less stress is imposed on the degrading tank. Some tanks that will hold 120 psi all day long will blow apart at 175 psi. It just depends on condition, and unless you run a thickness tester on all parts of your tank, it's anyone's guess how much of the original thickness your tank has lost over the years.
Here ya go... but remember, it's a 20 year old compressor, and that was before everything went online. This is a gif diagram:
And here is the parts list. It took me along time to format this, and yet
the forum software does whatever it wants. Oh well, I think you can figure
it out. The part numbers are mostly Campbell Hausfeld part numbers.
Manufacturer Part # / Description / Ref. #
TF2011 Air Compressor Pump 1
AR2307 Tank 2
ST070645AV 7/16 - 14 X 1 1/2 Hex Head Screw 3
ST070916AV 7/16 Washer 4
ST070729AV Hex Nut 7/16 - 14 5
ST127700AV 3/8 Npt Drain Valve 6
CV003205AV 3/4in Check Valve 7
ST072231AV Tube Elbow 8
TF061500AJ Discharge Tube With Fittings 9
ST011701AV 1/8 X 1/4 Tubing Compression Assy 10
R-060600AY 1/4 Copper Tube 11
CW207561AV Pressure Switch, 145/175 12
ST070387AV 1/4-18 X 21/2in Pipe ****** 13
GA016703AV 1/4in Npt, 300 Psi Pressure Gauge 14
V-215200AV Safety Valve 15
ST071428AV Reducer 16
MC301500IP Motor 17
MC301521IP MOTOR 17
BT008500AV Belt 18
PU009750AV Pulley 19
ST072608AV 3/8 External Tooth Lockwasher 20
ST070638AV 3/8 X 11/2 SCREW 21
ST070914AV 3/8 Washer 22
ST033500AV Lock Nut 23
BG217000AV Belt Guard Front 24
BG217100AV Belt Guard Back 25
ST075400AV Cap 26
ST116201AV 10-24 Hex-flange Nut 27
ST011200AV 5/16 Washer 29
ST074415AV Self-tapping Screw 1/4 - 20 X 3/4 30
ST070910AV 1/4 Flat Washer 31
TF063400AV Belt Guard Bracket 32
TF060402AJ Fitting, Tube 33
BG215300AV Mounting Plate 34
ST016500AV Self-tapping Screw 35
ST122010AJ Magnetic Starter Assembly 36
ST122011AJ Magnetic Starter Assembly 36
ST146800AV 5/16 External Tooth Lockwasher 37
ST074407AV 8-32 X 7/16 Hex Screw 38
AWESOME!
Thanks.
Well, I haven doing a little plumbing and modding already.
I am building a 3/4" pipe route to help with the moisture reduction. I will post some pics later to get some opinions...
While I had the outlet pipe off I used my Boroscope to look at the inside of the tank. It had some patchy surface rust where I could see, but didn't look too bad.
I take the comments and safety seriously, so will keep that in mind.
I note that the tank gauge only goes to 160psi.
Yesterday, I did a test on the speed of fill from empty.
1 minute it was 45psi.
2 minutes it was 85psi
3 minutes dead, it hit 125psi, and shutoff.
I did fiddle with the regulator, and tweaked the bolt/spring down a touch and was able to hit 150psi with a half turn... I pulled it back to 130psi this morning.
Thanks.
Well, I haven doing a little plumbing and modding already.
I am building a 3/4" pipe route to help with the moisture reduction. I will post some pics later to get some opinions...
While I had the outlet pipe off I used my Boroscope to look at the inside of the tank. It had some patchy surface rust where I could see, but didn't look too bad.
I take the comments and safety seriously, so will keep that in mind.
I note that the tank gauge only goes to 160psi.
Yesterday, I did a test on the speed of fill from empty.
1 minute it was 45psi.
2 minutes it was 85psi
3 minutes dead, it hit 125psi, and shutoff.
I did fiddle with the regulator, and tweaked the bolt/spring down a touch and was able to hit 150psi with a half turn... I pulled it back to 130psi this morning.
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
On that subject, if you have a spare pressure gauge I would use it to double check the tank pressure while you are adjusting it. I (unknowingly) was doing something and the pressure was lower than it should be. I walked over to the tank and it was showing what I was expecting. Anyhow after a bunch of head scratching I got a spare pressure gauge and put an air fitting on it... and discovered the gauge on the take was off by like 10 or 15 psi... Easy enough fix and a good excuse to get a nice big dial so I could read the numbers easier.
Nice find!!
I have that same CH pump on my Speedaire 5Z404. Mine has a 5hp motor and only puts out 17.3 cfm at 175psi compared to your compressor. My pump also shuts off at 120psi and kicks back on at 85psi or so, and I've yet to need more than that for home use.
Kerry
I have that same CH pump on my Speedaire 5Z404. Mine has a 5hp motor and only puts out 17.3 cfm at 175psi compared to your compressor. My pump also shuts off at 120psi and kicks back on at 85psi or so, and I've yet to need more than that for home use.
Kerry
Grounded Ken
Well-known member
30 wt. non-detergent. If you go with synthetic make sure you have no carbon deposits in the crankcase, the synthetic will loosen the carbon and you don't want that getting into critical places. I see the head has been replaced, this is a good thing. If you have no bubbling at the bottom of the tank from rust, you need not worry about the tank.
These units don't have conn. rod bearings, if you don't have to have high pressure, keep it turned down. Looks like a good unit.
These units don't have conn. rod bearings, if you don't have to have high pressure, keep it turned down. Looks like a good unit.
Compressor is running great!
Built some 5" riser feet.
I had to do this as the drain is below the foot level plus the knee wall on the side wall of the garage interfered with the rear foot.
I put some rubber block under the foot for now until I find the right isolator.
Built some 5" riser feet.
I had to do this as the drain is below the foot level plus the knee wall on the side wall of the garage interfered with the rear foot.
I put some rubber block under the foot for now until I find the right isolator.
Last edited:
TAMPAGT07
Well-known member
Compressor is running great!
Built some 5" riser feet.
I had to do this as the drain is below the foot level plus the knee wall on the side wall of the garage interfered with the rear foot.
I put some rubber block under the foot for now until I find the right isolator.
Kinda like high heels on a compressor....Very ****...
I know this threads dead n gone but heres a bit of info some may want that I see is still going on and new air guages was mentioned.
Some here will be like my mom and disapprove but hey thats life girls. She would spank me again for this if she was still around...lol sorry mom! No you girls on here cant spank me either!!
A couple wks back I felt I needed gauges replaced on my compressor. It had two and one was about 10lbs off I knew of and they were the cheap guages that came with it. Well turned out both mine were reading 20+lbs below...Ya' way off so new guages was like a new compressor to me. I think the china bas^@rd$ were wrong since new. It never had this much air. Shame on you Eagle!
After reading up a bit to see top guage companies to see if things changed since retirement{not much has}I decided on WIKA or Ashcroft and working with very large hydraulic machines {25-1800 ton} in manufacturing most my life I knew their names well and knew I wanted liquid filled since they outlast dry about 10 to 1 at least.
After looking on Amazons site I noticed first you must ignore their pics showing guages. All wrong pics. See makers site for pics.
But an issue I liked real well was a few that were supposed to be $90.00 ea but were showing $13.00 on some days.. Well I aint no thief but I aint stupid lol.. As long as I paid something Its not stealing is it? Thought you'd see it my way...See mom & girls here most agree its a big sale?
Anyway' you must pull up the complete list of them like the 2nd link way,way down below should do for you. If not at top of Amazons Wika guage page click "See all *** in this Product Family" at top of page above product details. About any one of them will show all guages that company offers by clicking it.
*** DO IT LIKE THIS WHEN READY TO BUY**
From the main Amazon wika list, find the guages you want and put the amount of guages you want in the white box to the right of each guage on the list. Just type a number in it then click your keyboards enter button and it will go in your cart.
*** Do not click the add to cart button to do it
*** HIT KEYBOARDS "ENTER" BUTTON INSTEAD.. ***
Then go through check out when ready. If the price shows the higher price go back and try again "may need to pick a different one even"... You can change your fittings however you want them so just think about how you want the fitting on the guage to be if you cant locate the one you really need. Like plumbing with small pipes {btw: Use brass or galvinized pipe so heavy rust wont form inside & beware cheap China galv pipe like their other great items}
These high end guages are not China although some are from other countries depending on model chosen.
** Clicking each guage listed will just take you to details. You can do that but you'll also see its true price and feel guilty because you know big corp cant afford shoppers like us & so you then must back up to long list again follow directions above/below here. On the day I was bornnn, nurses all gathered round,... sorry its haunting me..lol I just know moms watchin me right now... Sorry I cant help how you feel about buying items cheap girls? I feel fine my damn self. Its a clearence sale...yuuup!
=======Guage help info===Too long sorry it may help someone out?
?? Spec **2/1/2% **
On a gauge you want them to read about twice the units average "working pressure". Ideal guages reading zone is working pressure between 10-2 oclock if it was a clock dial. This spec is based on the dial being devided up into 3 sections. Low/med/high zones. See specs 2/1/2%? Its reading is most accurate around 50% of the dials or its center zone= 1%.
The lower this spec number is, the better a gauges accuracy is. There are 1/0/1% guages but $$$ and they're really not needed for compressors. Any 3/2/3% is more than fine.
**Guage pressure** So if its best at 2/1/2% you want working psi at center of dial. Got 150psi average working unit? Get 300psi Max guage...Aprox not exact psi....This also puts the needle pointing in center zone for easier reading.
* Also' these are Industrial precision guages not its close enough for China guages 10/9/10% ?. # came from here and hurt (0)
.
Keep your close enough ones so if you sell current unit you keep these guages for new unit or to sell. Deals dont come every day...
** Liquid filled gauges should not be mounted upside down since they have a breather/fill plug in top to refill them and bleed air out. They'd leak installed upside down..
*** Look at were you want its fitting and its fitting size. Top/bottom, middle back/back center??? You can change fittings running to it however you want? Were do you want its fitting? Is it 1/4npt--3/8 npt size?
Just write down what you need as you look/learn dont get overwhelmed or overthink it.. Its alot of specs but simple if you break each bit down.
Then sit back and
watch amazons prices on grouped items go up/down. I hope you get a hell of a deal like me. Its not limited to Gauges its alot of grouped items in lists that do it there. Not as good as Walmarts $600 electronics for 9.00 or $11 Kayaks but still a good deal to watch for.
Very long I know but hope it helps and threads dead anyway..If guage discusions elsewere here I missed it while looking back when I found this deal...Thanks for all your help everyone!
Ashcroft site -How to choose a guage PDF:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...fUQzofI8fAnCVXg&bvm=bv.59568121,d.cWc&cad=rjt
Guages list at Amazon: Remember it should go up to about "Twice your working pressure"..Not twice the max pressure.
Click show all:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z1X5UW/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Some here will be like my mom and disapprove but hey thats life girls. She would spank me again for this if she was still around...lol sorry mom! No you girls on here cant spank me either!!
A couple wks back I felt I needed gauges replaced on my compressor. It had two and one was about 10lbs off I knew of and they were the cheap guages that came with it. Well turned out both mine were reading 20+lbs below...Ya' way off so new guages was like a new compressor to me. I think the china bas^@rd$ were wrong since new. It never had this much air. Shame on you Eagle!
After reading up a bit to see top guage companies to see if things changed since retirement{not much has}I decided on WIKA or Ashcroft and working with very large hydraulic machines {25-1800 ton} in manufacturing most my life I knew their names well and knew I wanted liquid filled since they outlast dry about 10 to 1 at least.
After looking on Amazons site I noticed first you must ignore their pics showing guages. All wrong pics. See makers site for pics.
But an issue I liked real well was a few that were supposed to be $90.00 ea but were showing $13.00 on some days.. Well I aint no thief but I aint stupid lol.. As long as I paid something Its not stealing is it? Thought you'd see it my way...See mom & girls here most agree its a big sale?
Anyway' you must pull up the complete list of them like the 2nd link way,way down below should do for you. If not at top of Amazons Wika guage page click "See all *** in this Product Family" at top of page above product details. About any one of them will show all guages that company offers by clicking it.
*** DO IT LIKE THIS WHEN READY TO BUY**
From the main Amazon wika list, find the guages you want and put the amount of guages you want in the white box to the right of each guage on the list. Just type a number in it then click your keyboards enter button and it will go in your cart.
*** Do not click the add to cart button to do it
*** HIT KEYBOARDS "ENTER" BUTTON INSTEAD.. ***
Then go through check out when ready. If the price shows the higher price go back and try again "may need to pick a different one even"... You can change your fittings however you want them so just think about how you want the fitting on the guage to be if you cant locate the one you really need. Like plumbing with small pipes {btw: Use brass or galvinized pipe so heavy rust wont form inside & beware cheap China galv pipe like their other great items}
These high end guages are not China although some are from other countries depending on model chosen.
** Clicking each guage listed will just take you to details. You can do that but you'll also see its true price and feel guilty because you know big corp cant afford shoppers like us & so you then must back up to long list again follow directions above/below here. On the day I was bornnn, nurses all gathered round,... sorry its haunting me..lol I just know moms watchin me right now... Sorry I cant help how you feel about buying items cheap girls? I feel fine my damn self. Its a clearence sale...yuuup!
=======Guage help info===Too long sorry it may help someone out?
?? Spec **2/1/2% **
On a gauge you want them to read about twice the units average "working pressure". Ideal guages reading zone is working pressure between 10-2 oclock if it was a clock dial. This spec is based on the dial being devided up into 3 sections. Low/med/high zones. See specs 2/1/2%? Its reading is most accurate around 50% of the dials or its center zone= 1%.
The lower this spec number is, the better a gauges accuracy is. There are 1/0/1% guages but $$$ and they're really not needed for compressors. Any 3/2/3% is more than fine.
**Guage pressure** So if its best at 2/1/2% you want working psi at center of dial. Got 150psi average working unit? Get 300psi Max guage...Aprox not exact psi....This also puts the needle pointing in center zone for easier reading.
* Also' these are Industrial precision guages not its close enough for China guages 10/9/10% ?. # came from here and hurt (0)
. Keep your close enough ones so if you sell current unit you keep these guages for new unit or to sell. Deals dont come every day...
** Liquid filled gauges should not be mounted upside down since they have a breather/fill plug in top to refill them and bleed air out. They'd leak installed upside down..
*** Look at were you want its fitting and its fitting size. Top/bottom, middle back/back center??? You can change fittings running to it however you want? Were do you want its fitting? Is it 1/4npt--3/8 npt size?
Just write down what you need as you look/learn dont get overwhelmed or overthink it.. Its alot of specs but simple if you break each bit down.
Then sit back and
watch amazons prices on grouped items go up/down. I hope you get a hell of a deal like me. Its not limited to Gauges its alot of grouped items in lists that do it there. Not as good as Walmarts $600 electronics for 9.00 or $11 Kayaks but still a good deal to watch for.
Very long I know but hope it helps and threads dead anyway..If guage discusions elsewere here I missed it while looking back when I found this deal...Thanks for all your help everyone!
Ashcroft site -How to choose a guage PDF:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...fUQzofI8fAnCVXg&bvm=bv.59568121,d.cWc&cad=rjt
Guages list at Amazon: Remember it should go up to about "Twice your working pressure"..Not twice the max pressure.
Click show all:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z1X5UW/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Last edited:
Good info.
Update:
The Compressor is working great, and getting used a LOT!
I built about 30' of black pipework and connected the compressor to it with a 12" SS flexible pipe to absorb vibrations. I also added a 9' vertical loop with a drain to help contain the moisture, and a moisture trap on each of the 3 outlets.
Update:
The Compressor is working great, and getting used a LOT!
I built about 30' of black pipework and connected the compressor to it with a 12" SS flexible pipe to absorb vibrations. I also added a 9' vertical loop with a drain to help contain the moisture, and a moisture trap on each of the 3 outlets.