I have 2 tree stumps to remove, and need to drill 1" holes into them. My corded drill does not have the power to run 1" auger (1/2" chuck). I just need a bigger drill with higher ampere, but all those high amperage drills are either hammer drill or SDS (plus) rotary drill. Can I buy either type and use it with 1" auger? Thank you.
Bigger drill to make holes in tree stump
- Thread starter paker
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rlitman
Well-known member
You want a right angle "hole hawg". The longer handle of a right angle drill will keep it from wrenching your arm off when it binds, unlike those other options which you'll just wreck boring large holes.
bob15
Well-known member
What type of drill do you have that won't drill a 1" hole in wood with a ship auger bit?
Where are you looking that you only see hammer drills in 1/2 chuck? Here is a non-hammer drill: https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/drills/drills-and-hammer-drills/12-in-13-mm-vsr-pistol-grip-drill/dwd210g
Where are you looking that you only see hammer drills in 1/2 chuck? Here is a non-hammer drill: https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/drills/drills-and-hammer-drills/12-in-13-mm-vsr-pistol-grip-drill/dwd210g
ez-duzit
Well-known member
My 20v brushless dewalt can do it, but it's certainly not the greatest when you get around a foot into something...it keeps moving but it's taking some strain. A joist drill or hole hawg or mixer drill with higher torque and better grips would be advisable.
TonyJ
Well-known member
Yes try a spade bit. I just used my old b&d 3/8” 30 year old drill to drill 1 7/8” holes in oak and it never slowed down
kctyphoon
Banned
You want double duty? Get a 1/2” impact wrench with a pin detent. Use a 1/2” square to 7/16 hex drive adapter.. and a 1” , 7/16 hex drive ship auger bit. We use them to drill through telephone poles.. youll have holes in no time with an impact wrench, and you wont break your wrist or burn up drills doing it.
Ship auger bit is what you want though. Any decent 18v cordless drill with a 2 or 3 speed motor should run that bit though.
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Milton Shaw
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The new Milwaukee ship auger bits cut a lot easier than the older styles that are all that used to be available. I saw a demo of Milwaukee vs Irwin and Milwaukee would drill circles around the others. They also designed them for lineman to use on pressure treated poles. They drilled faster, and bolts went in without having to drive them in. They were shown using the new Milwaukee M18 drills.
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Lassen Forge
Well-known member
My ancient plug-in Milwaukee hole shooter would handle this with a 1" auger - we put railroad ties into the side of a hill for steps using exactly this, using the 1" holes for anchors for rebar stakes.
Do you mean a setup like this? The auger is not chrome moly steel. Still ok? By the way, the middle piece in the photo below is 7/16 socket (1/2 drive). I googled for 1/2" drive 7/16" adapter but all hits were male adapters.
By the way my drill is Skil 5A drill. I could use 1/4" auger but not 1". Maybe I need to sharpen the auger.
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usdemt
Well-known member
Just throwing this out there. Are you trying to use that chemical ****? Or trying to smolder the stumps? I tried the chemical stuff and after a year and half just dug them out by hand because I wasted enough time and money on that chemical ****. Not trying to get you to buy less tools just something to think about if that is your plan.
Yes, I was thinking about drilling holes and using stump remover. I didn't know it would take
years. I had better change the plan to mechanical removal. I doubt city would give me a burn permit. Thank you for sharing your experience.
md21722
Well-known member
For immediate results a stump grinder is best. If you want to let nature takes its course you could also cut a hash pattern in the stump with a chain saw and let it rot away.
If this happens in the future, consider alternate methods of tree removal. Farm tractors with front end loaders can push trees over and get the stump at the same time. You can also winch trees out of the ground with a good farm truck and winch.
Once the tree is cut leaving only the stump there is no more mechanical leverage of the tree itself to remove the stump and root ball below it. You can't winch that. You'd need a back hoe to dig it out or the stump grinder to level it off.
If this happens in the future, consider alternate methods of tree removal. Farm tractors with front end loaders can push trees over and get the stump at the same time. You can also winch trees out of the ground with a good farm truck and winch.
Once the tree is cut leaving only the stump there is no more mechanical leverage of the tree itself to remove the stump and root ball below it. You can't winch that. You'd need a back hoe to dig it out or the stump grinder to level it off.
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Depending on how deep you need try looking at the Irwin speedbor max. They are a beast and I use them with even my m12 fuel impact and drill runs for electric wires and I just was doing hole for 7/8 lags in a 6x12 beams. I just would use a bit and then added hex extensions as I went. The bits pull them self through.
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orangeblood
Well-known member
build a fire on top of the stump. rake it smooth in a couple of days. the below grade part of the stump will take a couple of years to completely rot but this is the same result if you use a stump grinder
seber
Well-known member
I've seen that demonstration. When I asked to examine the bits I got some **** about insurance and safety. I'm pretty sure the other bits were dull.
