Binks Dual Stage Compressor Acting-Up

[kevin47]

I have a Binks Dual Stage Compressor I can't figure out...It used to work fine...The oil level is good...What happens is it comes up to full pressure...It releases excess pressure fine...Then, after a few minutes it starts slowing down...You'd think it was starting to "seize-up"...And it will slow down 'till it stops if I can't get to it in time...Let it sit for awhile and I can start it up again and run to full pressure but then it slows down again...Now, I wonder if it could just be the electric motor...Continuous Duty Motor...Re-placing that won't be cheap...Any Ideas...?

 

[Mike Miller]

I had my moter rebuilt. If it is slow restarting check thst your outlet valves arn't leaking and letting head pressure rebuild.

 

[kevin47]

Do you have a Binks...? I was thinking maybe it was fighting the pressure...But I had this thought while writing this that maybe it's just the motor taking a ****...Man that won't be cheap...New or rebuilt it's gotta be $300-400 bucks...
but these expense compressors are so quite is awesome...

 

[larry_g]

I would have to ask, do you have a way to monitor the current draw of the motor? What is the pressure doing during this slow down? I'm thinking I would open the tank enough to maintain the pressure quite a bit below cutoff and see if the pump slows down. If it does then the motor would be suspect but if it does not slow then you have something going on in the pump/cutout. This advise is worth what you paid for it.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[69GSCAL]

There should be a check valve betweenthe pump and the tank so that the pressure inside of the tank isn't fighting against the pump. I'd take it apart to make sure the check valve is working (1 way only).

If the valve is opperating corectly, your electric motor could be taking a **** on you. As already suggested, you can run it while manually releasing the pressure in the tank well below the cutoff to see if the motor still slows down/ stops even without building any pressure in the tank.

 

[kevin47]

Thanks, Larry...Nice shop by the way...I'm (hopefully) moving my Lathe(s) Mill(s)Welder(s) to a new home in a couple months from a warehouse I was leasing to property that already has a steel building on the place...Unfortunately, it's only a 1,000 sq ft...Gonna be a little cramped...But it's out in the country....I'll have to get a phase converter...And I'll save a bundle of dough getting out 'o town...Kevin

 

[kevin47]

It's building pressure...Goes right on up to 120 PSI...Because it's "continuous duty" it never shuts off until I turn it off...It's after it gets there (120) or soon after it slows down...I'll check it out this weekend, if I get out there ( go niner's )...

 

[nehog]

It's building pressure...Goes right on up to 120 PSI...Because it's "continuous duty" it never shuts off until I turn it off...It's after it gets there (120) or soon after it slows down...I'll check it out this weekend, if I get out there ( go niner's )...

I'm not aware of any electric compressor that keeps the motor and pump running full time when the tank is up to pressure. Can you provide some images? Continuous duty typically means that it can run full time, it doesn't mean it should run all the time.

 

[kevin47]

Yes, it's electric (220v) and it is "Continuous Duty"...There is no auto-shut-off...The dual-stage just starts "cycling"...Keeps it at 120 PSI all the time...Used for contractors doing roofing, etc. It must be 30 years old..It's a Binks, I recall the price new was $1,995...Way back then...Lot of cash for a portable compressor, I know...But, Boy 'o Boy, is it quite. The tank is only 16 Gallon.

 

[kevin47]

Yeah, I know...16 Gallon...If you go and turn it off, you're back over there turning it back on in no-time...Was thinking of adapting an auto-shut-off switch, then this started happening...If I have to lose the electric "continuous duty" motor, I'll definetly have to hook-up a switch...

 

[nehog]

Any online documentation, this sounds like a very interesting setup!

I'd start with 'easy' and check the valve that opens to dump the compressor output and make sure it is properly dumping--maybe it's building up more pressure than you realize and that's bogging down the motor.

 

[kevin47]

Thanks, Peter...I have a gauge on it...Goes to 120 psi, then as soon as things warm up ( a couple of minutes is all ) it poops-out...Very discouraging for such a top dollar compressor...I'll play with it and got back...Kevin

 

[kevin47]

Oh, wait a second...I hear ya...That's what I thought at first...It's not "dumping" and fighting the motor...I'll leave the lines open to see if it keeps running when the pressure can't build to full pressure and slow it down...

 

[larry_g]

Oh, wait a second...I hear ya...That's what I thought at first...It's not "dumping" and fighting the motor...I'll leave the lines open to see if it keeps running when the pressure can't build to full pressure and slow it down...

When leaving the lines 'open' meter the flow out of the tank so that you maintain 80-100 psi in the tank so that the pump is working and not just passing free air.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[kevin47]

Okay...Here we go with my old adage "Leave it alone long enough, and it'll fix itself...!" lol Geez, today I did what I could to repeat the problem and it wouldn't do it...Of course I fooled with the check valves on the side...Opened the petcock awhile...Letting pressure escape...Run it to full pressure and "run on" for awhile ( 30 minutes )...Nothing...The temp's of the electrical motor and compressor motor seem fine...The electrical cable is a bit long but doesn't heat-up, besides it's always been long on it. It's for contractor's for Pete's sake...

So, thanks for the help, guys...Still a mystery as to what the heck was going on...! Kevin