birdbath concrete floor

[Maineshop]

Hi. My new shop slab was poured about 8 weeks ago. I went over it with a straight edge recently and noticed some depressions. Then I flooded the floor with a hose and it became pretty obvious where they're located and how deep they are. I specifically asked the concrete guy to avoid birdbaths, and this is what I got... After washing a vehicle I want the water to follow the pitch and move to the front of the shop.

What are my options to fill the depressions and yet keep the floor concrete? I don't think I have many options without having to cover the floor with tiles after I patch it with some kind of liquid. I want to be able to use jack stands, etc. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[RaceDeck1]

There are a lot of knowledgeable people here on the forum who can help you with concrete issues, hopefully they will chime in. Racedeck is often used for the issue you are having, a common solution I have seen is to use the self-leveling concrete patch material to fill in the bird baths then install a modular flooring system on top - good luck

 

[FearTheH]

We had an issue similar to this in my parents basement when I was younger... unknown until a water heater ruptured, dad got a self leveling epoxy and filled in the low spots and smoothed the edges with a trowel as well as put a slight slope to it to match the floor when it began to set up and then sprayed some water after it was cured to make sure the water ran to the drain...worked well and is still holding up about 20 years later.

 

[Radix2]

squeegee

anything else is going to be a whole 'nuther project...

how big of dips we talking?

 

[Smrtpunk]

I'm having the same issue with my floor.

Every time the car comes in with snow on it, it melts and puddles all over the floor. My kids seem to love splashing in the puddles but I'm getting tired of it. Not to mention the humidity issues that accompany a heated floor with puddles all over it.

I try to keep up with it squeegeeing out the floor every time we have snow falls but it's a pain in the ***.

Here's what I'm thinking about trying and someone tell me if it's a bad idea.

I'm going to mark out all the low spots, then rent a thermal camera and a 2" diamond hole saw that's deep enough to go all the way through the concrete.

I'll use the camera to ensure I don't knick a water line, I'll drill to the gravel below the concrete and then cap it up top with a typical floor drain. In my mind this should allow for the water to seep into the gravel and then away into the ground.

 

[73RR]

Poking holes and draining into the sub-base material is usually a bad idea. It will eventually fill up with dirt and **** and, short-term, water flowing into the base can cause damage.

If a birdbath is objectionable the there are only a couple of options that don't require massive amounts of work.
If the surface must be concrete then mark the perimeter and then chip out the area to at least ½" depth then fill it with non-shrink grout. If you have any questions as to the proper methods it is advisable to ask lots-o-questions so you only do it once.

The other option is to scour the surface (mechanical or chemical means) and fill the depression with either straight epoxy or some epoxy paint. The epoxy paint is usually less costly and can be covered with additional material if you choose to coat the parking area.

 

[bczygan]

Hi. My new shop slab was poured about 8 weeks ago. I went over it with a straight edge recently and noticed some depressions. Then I flooded the floor with a hose and it became pretty obvious where they're located and how deep they are. I specifically asked the concrete guy to avoid birdbaths, and this is what I got... After washing a vehicle I want the water to follow the pitch and move to the front of the shop.

What are my options to fill the depressions and yet keep the floor concrete? I don't think I have many options without having to cover the floor with tiles after I patch it with some kind of liquid. I want to be able to use jack stands, etc. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

R & R.

Remove and replace, period.

Bill

 

[Armorpoxy]

For jobs like this a good self leveler applied can work. Check out Ardex or CMP Products for what they recommend. Also a good idea to cut out a square and remove material in the depression to about 1/4" so that you can get enough material in the depression. Feathered edges usually fail.

 

[Maineshop]

Remove and replace, period. Bill

OK... That's a great answer! I just rip out my new floor and put a new one in!

 

[Maineshop]

how big of dips we talking?

They're not too bad, but enough to be annoying. I think I'll have to cut, fill, then cover with something. Certainly unfortunate.

 

[jimindm]

The amount of people that think a concrete slab would not puddle is amazing to me.

Seriously how could it ever happen. It is mot an exact science.

Even if some one could guarantee no puddles, who would pay it to have them do the work.

I would say if one truly wants no puddles, it would be on the finishing side. As in some one coming in weeks after the initial pour, grinding it, and finishing with something. All that comes to mind is something like a terrazzo floor finish.

All of that costs a lot more than one usually wants to spend on a garage floor.

Squeegees work, but I have used a shop vac also. Have to say though a mop and a bucket have worked pretty well for a while now, for me..

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

...

 

[jimindm]

I think for most of the finishing work, no matter what we're talking about, is having someone skilled enough to hide the "oops".

I think you have just described a professional of many trades.

The problem is most do not want to pay what they charge.

You can read thread after thread hear about the trades.

 

[jask]

I am curious what you consider a "birdbath"...? I know what I think that is and the concrete crew would not get paid. If I speced a level and and graded floor that would clear water it would probably be a very nice finish by a top shelf contractor who was known for finish work and not quick and cheap... not the lowest price guy. so is it 1/8" in 8 or a 1/4" in 4?? put a number on it or post a pic.

 

[zporta]

Any pictures of this slab/ puddling?

 

[Armorpoxy]

When we re-level floors we use a laser and a measurement stick and move it all around the floor to map out where we need to apply the leveler. This creates what is called a hypsometric map, not unlike a topographical map.

We then use a machine that cuts little tabs of paper as directed by the laser and places them on the floor at the exact height of how much leveler is needed and we pour and spread up to the top of the paper.

Perhaps use some kind of modified method of this to help.

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

...

 

[Armorpoxy]

I'm not sure we have good ones showing this, but here is a pic if a commercial pinning machine. Our Prep Crete Division www.prep-crete.com uses machinery like this when we have to pin our commercial jobs, no other way to do it efficiently. When we have to set and level 20,000 sq ft at a clip in NYC on a night shift , there isn't time to be wasting figuring out how much to poor where. With 20 men, machines, pallets of self leveler etc ready to go we just have to fire things up and pour to the pin tops fast!

We're sure with some creativity something inexpensive can be applied to the floor and trimmed to the exact height that the leveler needs to be poured to. Lasers and marked measuring sticks are easy to locate.

https://www.google.com/search?q=acc...7AkIYw&biw=1024&bih=729#imgrc=4eeL1WBp-6Lw-M:

 

[Marctrees]

Maineshop - The question remains unanswered as to how deep the birdbaths are.

NO solid info yet.

Without that, query is meaningless.

Unless you already decided you NEED to overlay it, no matter what the variation is.

Marc

 

[Maineshop]

Any pictures of this slab/ puddling?

The floor is covered for painting right now, but I need to clean the joint compound off the floor with a hose and will take some pictures. I'm not just bitching about some minor pooling. The certified jackass who did the work performs the same operation at multiple customer locations monthly in our area.

 

[Marctrees]

Measurements, like depth of depression under a 6' straightedge would be the most explanatory.

Just a few quick checks of the worst spots.

Appreciated, but not sure how photos will tell much.

Should take a minute once floor is available. Marc