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BJPXR9 Tool
- Thread starter giacomo.m
- Start date
kbeefy
Well-known member
I Demo'd one off the truck when I broke my BJP1. Pushed out the BJ that broke the BJP1.
I liked it. Bigger and heavier than the BJP1, but not where its a problem.
Easier to setup since the srew is outside the axle instead of inline with the cups.
If I was doing ball Joints often I'd get one. For now I'll just wait for snappy to get me a replacement BJP1.
I liked it. Bigger and heavier than the BJP1, but not where its a problem.
Easier to setup since the srew is outside the axle instead of inline with the cups.
If I was doing ball Joints often I'd get one. For now I'll just wait for snappy to get me a replacement BJP1.
I think beefy is referring to the matco bjp18100 by his discription. The bjpxr9 is basically a upgraded OTC bj press. Still think the BJP1 is just as good or better have not used the bjp18100.
Maybe you are right, although it seems to me that it is only valid for Ford- Dodge and GM ?
but I did not understand if with this tool it is possible to apply a double force to the ball joint compared to the classic competitors ?
so what's her Achilles heel........?
thank you
Giacomo
Maybe you are right, although it seems to me that it is only valid for Ford- Dodge and GM ?
but I did not understand if with this tool it is possible to apply a double force to the ball joint compared to the classic competitors ?
so what's her Achilles heel........?
thank you
Giacomo
Its a force multiplier by design. The negative is its extremely cumbersome and cant be vise mounted like a C-Frame.
You can find the same one as the Matco from the OEM on ebay, Mueller Krepps.
The bushing kits Mueller Keups offer arent the same as either BJ press mentioned.
The set the OP is talking about is an OTC kit that is similar to a Snap-on BJP1.
The second kit is designed like a giant ball joint separator and is made by Schley Products.
Both are still exclusive to Matco for whatever the duration of the contract is.
Is this a hypothetical question or have you found a ball joint the BJP1 will not remove? I don’t do ball joints very often and have yet to find one I can’t get out with the BJP1. But I do live in the south and we don’t see snow so rust is usually not an issue.
Last edited:
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I usually heat up the area the ball joint is mounted into, dull red in a 3/8 wide area or so, then knock them out with a 498 air hammer. If need be, I'll use the ball joint press in the same manner. If a ball joint press is running out of power, heat is the only option IMO.
Is this a hypothetical question or have you found a ball joint the BJP1 will not remove? I don’t do ball joints very often and have yet to find one I can’t get out with the BJP1. But I do live in the south and we don’t see snow so rust is usually not an issue.
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Giacomo
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Oxygen/propane torch. The shop keeps a cutting head on it 100% of the time. Use a knife/pliers to cut the boot on the ball joint up, or remove it, to prevent the possibility of a flaming grease explosion. Wipe up the excess to minimize smell. Heat up the edge of the arm/knuckle, and air-hammer away. This method and a 498 hammer running on 3/8 line pretty far from the compressor works well.
The other option, is to heat a larger area to a lower temp, then throw the press on and go. The last resort for me is burning the center of the ball joint out, and then peeling the husk out. Pretty rare.
The other option, is to heat a larger area to a lower temp, then throw the press on and go. The last resort for me is burning the center of the ball joint out, and then peeling the husk out. Pretty rare.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Knock out the grease fitting, and cut off the boot, this will be fiery and smelly. You'll need a torch with oxygen, and a cutting tip with an oxygen blast lever. After that it's just like cutting/burning anything else with a torch. Heat it cherry red, oxygen blast it to blow out the molten slag and start cutting. When you run out of molten stuff to blast out, go back to heating, and repeat.
Basically blow a hole through the top, and that will let the joint itself fall out. Then air hammer the husk into pieces, or smash it inwards, or just pound it down. Depending on the c-frame adapters you have, you can press the husk downwards as well while it's still hot. Usually it's a 20 to 30min process to cool it back down. I like to douse it in penetrating oil.
Basically blow a hole through the top, and that will let the joint itself fall out. Then air hammer the husk into pieces, or smash it inwards, or just pound it down. Depending on the c-frame adapters you have, you can press the husk downwards as well while it's still hot. Usually it's a 20 to 30min process to cool it back down. I like to douse it in penetrating oil.