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Black and decker restoration

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Apr 3, 2017
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How do I remove this flange? Any help please.... huge pipe wrench wont budge it! Dont want to damage more than I have all ready...9e0945852672f5d59cfe398571c993d3.jpgb06fcb29b633ac1d6ff7698ec34d3cec.jpg5c5a00edb3bfa415c4bbf68570673ac1.jpg00e386026479437d3bda7abe4addf254.jpg

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OP
E
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Apr 3, 2017
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Thanks Jake.... think this is a pipe spanner... more curious... does this have a thread or just fitted on tight like a cap.... I heaved with all my might...

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yhprum

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Looks like someone was there before, that bearing looks new. My gues is it is pressed or a shrink fit.
One option would be to split it with a cutoff wheel, but you will need to makefind a new one.
 

Stadger

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Open up the drill case. The flange may be bolted/nutted from the inside. Just a guess.
 
OP
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These answers are wonderful... but I feel a little out of my depth.... Im a pipe wrench kinda guy... is there an easy way?

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OP
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Hope this helps...thanks.... just brought a PM Rocket chainsaw... yippee...15d1b030101aabc6656d826c089ec748.jpgebd0ab286d086534688f5880886084f6.jpg25bf0ca46837c9bb0a21d4560cd5cf18.jpg

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bareass172

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Sure is hard to see things in pictures. Every time I'm faced with something like this I realize the limits of not holding an item in your hands.
As best as I can tell I'm thinking press fit. I'd invite a little heat to the casting inside and/or the part you're twisting on. Doesn't have to be a torch if you don't have that, I've used a simple heat gun (and time) to work things loose before in a pinch. Sometimes things like this will just stick like crazy and not budge until you introduce a little heat and then suddenly they'll move.
Good luck!
 
OP
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Just viewed bearing separators on google images.... they look amazing.... but if you force it and its threaded, then.... oops...

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OP
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I must say I feel very humbled that so many kind people like to help... what a beautiful world we live in....

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tym

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It looks pressed in to me too...but will wait for the experts to weigh in.
 

Larryjones

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Since it's a newer bearing it all may be Locktited together which would require heat. If there is nothing wrong with it I would just leave it as it is.
 
OP
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How much heat... wouldn't want to buckle the plastic dust cover on the bearings like a curled jellyfish on the beach...lol.
I washed all in petrol bath... so I may have caused grit to get inside... when I move bearing race... its grinding like grit inside or is that worn bearings ... this drill was battered to death when I brought it for ten dollars... its a learning piece... I have another identical one with nice gold paint..

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yhprum

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I found this over at Vintage Machinery.org 1953 catalog.
Looks like a press fit if the illustration is accurate.
 

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bareass172

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How much heat... wouldn't want to buckle the plastic dust cover on the bearings like a curled jellyfish on the beach...lol.
The idea of adding heat is to expand the case around the bearing, so you should be heating the case more than the bearing (as much as possible). It sounds like you trashed the bearing, so it won't matter much now as it needs replacement. A bearing should rotate SMOOTHLY. Any grit, drag, etc means replacement. In very rare instances where a bearing is rare or hard to replace I have soaked it in kerosene for days to remove as much grease and grit as possible, then repacked with grease (sparingly), and resealed it. In almost all cases though, bearings are so inexpensive they aren't worth trying to save - because once they go south it's only a matter of time until they're trashed. Read up on "brinelling" if you want to better understand why this is the case.
 
OP
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Many thanks.... just came back from bearing shop (Saeco Wilson) and they said bearing is worn out... $15 new replacement.... they said freezer for casing and butane torch on flange and pipe wrench opposite way (L hand thread). Holes suggest a tool for turning it is evidence of threaded inside.... its in the freezer now... give it a go in the morning... sleep well guys...

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OP
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Yippee its a left hand threaded collar.... freezer then heated...done!...09f0fc9165ac74ebb84114c0da42ff9d.jpg
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bareass172

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Nicely done! I swear left hand thread never even crossed my mind, but it makes sense. The heating/freezing method is a very common theme you'll learn working with bearings. Shrink one, expand the other. I had a friend who used to love to tell me stories of when he was in the military stationed in Alaska. He said when they worked on parts that needed to be shrunk they'd throw them in the snow and heat the other part inside. He said that often the bearings would drop into place without pressing needed, and then as the parts normalized they'd lock together.

Anyways, glad you got it!
 
OP
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Thanks guys... now both bearings are in petrol bath... must be grit inside because now they run smooth.... strange thing... one bearing has number rubbed out and new number hand etched on... photos to follow

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OP
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Any advice disassembling this for cleaning? Brushes removed but wire seems to attach with a coiled ring... maybe it just flips off??... but wires from beneath are a sealled unit between handle and motor...remove bolts in shellac widing unit so slides freely but can't fully come out because of restrictions mentioned.... cleaning chemicals may damage shellac... is degresser ok... or CRC electronic cleaner better?c081ca657ac0b2282cd4fbd186e0734a.jpg1f2ffac5d78dac9061c44ec26b4e90af.jpg357aa47dbaec5189c9e3fd88a7741e9e.jpg05c51eb9c908412f32e455624f7221d8.jpgdd091e451a4615ba8ea193693b73acec.jpg

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yhprum

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Those wires attched to the the brush holders are circular springlike things. Should pull off with a hook scribe if it is like my shear was.
 
OP
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Ive always worn bare feet as a professional woocarver for many years... brings me good luck...
Bigger photos how... you mean wider angle?
What about my electrical cleaning query... ? God bless

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yhprum

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Cleaning the armature and field windings... maybe use a light solvent like kero or varsol with a brush, Don;t let it soak too long.
Once all the elctrical bits are removed regular degreaser. Wouldnt worry about the empty brush holders.
 
OP
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Seems we don't get Varsol here in New Zealand... but Kerosene or Turps seems fine... many thanks...

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Ole Slewfoot

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I find cutting up a drill bit or allen wrench , and welding the bits to the outside of a socket such that they engage the holes well lets me apply a lot more force than a common pin spanner.
 
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